Do-it-yourself pillars under the gate from a profiled sheet. Gates made of corrugated board: variants of some models and step-by-step assembly instructions. Welding the wicket frame

In modern construction shopping centers, you can find an abundance of materials that are used to make fences and gates. Most often, this role is played by steel, wrought iron, wood. However, a fairly new building material such as corrugated board, which is chosen by an increasing number of owners of summer cottages, is gradually gaining a leading position. And do-it-yourself gates from a profiled sheet are found in suburban buildings more and more often.

Profiled sheeting is essentially galvanized steel, expressed in sheet implementation with polymer coating. This is enough new material on the market. There are several reasons for the choice by builders and owners of summer cottages:

despite the fact that steel predominates in the composition, this material is very light, it has already managed to prove itself perfectly when applied;
very easy to install. We will try to testify to this in construction practice, showing how to create a gate from corrugated board with our own hands. At the same time, we will try to understand its types and find the best variety.

Doors from p-decking have their own design features, positive and negative qualities. The positive aspects of fences made of this material include:

Since the corrugated board is made in a variety of colors, you can choose a color that will one hundred percent correspond to the aesthetic needs of the consumer and be in harmony with any components of the decoration in the summer cottage. Varieties of gates from this building material are divided by the opening method into:

Opening.
Swinging open.
Sliding.
For car garages.
Swivel-lifting.

For the most part of all varieties, there are rolling and swinging gates.

Such performance is considered traditional, and most users are accustomed to watching this particular way of performance in their summer cottages. The structure has two posts, on which the gate doors made of corrugated board are placed. Due to the bearing hinges applied to the struts, a soft opening is obtained. A door or wicket is usually located in the adjacent section of the fence, but there are cases when the door is built into one of the door compartments.

The opening takes place by means of a manual method of action or mechanically, by means of an auto-electric drive built into the structure. In most cases, the drive is used for entrances to industrial facilities and other service areas. However, in last years more and more electric automatics, which operate gates, find their admirers in the construction work of private premises.

It should be noted that due to the use of corrugated board in the production of gates, you can save your money on the purchase of a drive, since the gates come out lighter than similar models from other materials, and an automatic closer will suit even a small power.

Swinging gates activate high interest due to the availability of building materials and the ease of working with them. However, in cases of lack of space for opening sections, this option will need to be rejected and think about how to make swing gates from corrugated board with your own hands.

Such gates are recognized as the most comfortable to use due to their operator characteristics. Everything is explained by the fact that when plowing, they move to the side, without taking up the required area of space in front. If the area is not conducive to the use of swing gates due to the lack of a free area, this type of fencing will become literally irreplaceable. It is fashionable to equip it with an additional door directly inside the structure. A gates made of corrugated board with a wicket will provide both the entry of equipment and the separate entry of people.

Structurally, it will be possible to achieve a very free opening for moving vehicles and parking cars, since such gates are 10 meters long. By using the opening gates in winter, you do not need to waste a lot of time on painstaking snow removal, since snowdrifts will not interfere with the opening of the sash, as is the case when opening swinging ones.

Also, due to the design, which eliminates the guides in the clearance, you can not worry about the passage of vehicles of any height. It should be noted that the use of rolling gates without additional automation is very inconvenient due to the large dimensions of the door. In this regard, if you are thinking whether a gate with a sliding-type corrugated board is needed, it makes sense to think over the moment of purchasing an automatic drive.

The main disadvantages that are present in the rolling back type of gates made of corrugated board include: the need for systems of this type of gate to use a strong base, which increases financial costs. It is imperative to use special components that are designed to ensure the correct functioning of the gate.

Installation of these types of gates is the most difficult and, as a result, more expensive. What should you focus on when buying a professional sheet? Mostly it is worth familiarizing yourself with the brand and type of coating. Such material can vary in width, configuration and depth of the cells. The extent to which the future gate will turn out to be solid depends on the size of the protrusion on the profiled sheet.

As already mentioned, the assembly of such a gate will require significant effort. However, everything will work out, and any installation work will be on the shoulder, if you initially understand specific traits installation and understand the technology by which the roll-back type of doors are being erected.

Preparatory stage: purchasing parts and creating a drawing. Scroll necessary components is necessary, since without them it is impossible to complete the gate:

Guide bar. The size must be chosen from such a calculation: the opening of the opening, multiplied by 1.6. The width depends on the mass at the gate.
Roller carriages (20 pieces will be enough).
Catchers for the high and low part of the door (2 pieces).
The board required to stabilize the movement of the sash at the moment of opening.
The roller is retractable, which is designed to reduce noise during operation.

The above is true for sliding doors. If you intend to perform a sliding type of fencing without a drive, then you do not need to buy the materials listed below:

hydraulic reducer;
ragged rail;
control unit;
assembly tools;
photocells;
control signal light.

As already mentioned, it is necessary to carefully plan the work in advance, including the preparation of drawings. They must contain the following information:

Gate body length.
Counterweight scale.
The loftiness of future doors.
Distance of each strap.

First, you need to place pillars in the ground that will hold the entire structure.

The pillars must be made of:

channel bars;
metal pipes;
oak beams;
bricks or concrete using mortgages.

An excavation is dug below the freezing level of groundwater, a bar or pipe is placed through the building level. After that, everything needs to be poured with concrete and wait until it is all dry.
If a foundation for a mobile version of the fence is required, then in this case, a channel up to 20 cm in size and fourteen-millimeter metal rods will be required.

The first step is to make a bench. The rods must be cut to the required length and welded to the channel. Then they dig a hole in the soil of a certain shape. Where the column will be located, the recess should be one and a half meters, and between them - half a meter. Sand dust is placed to the bottom of such a pit. At the end of the work, you need to place a pre-prepared bench in the dug out recess and level it. Then the foundation is poured and left to dry for 6-7 days.

For this we need pipes of a certain size. It will be necessary to prepare in advance segments of 60 by 30 and 40 by 20 mm. Next, we turn to the drawing. According to it, we cut pipes in accordance with the specified dimensions. To do this, you can use a grinder. Then they are cleaned, freed from fat and dyed.

To make the sliding gates look their best, the pipes are covered with soil before painting. First, the frame is welded into one whole, which will stand outside, then the inner frame is welded. Since a sheet of corrugated board will be attached to the latter, it is worth calculating the distance between the borders in advance.

Sheathing process

We have come to the final stage of creating self-made sliding fences. To complete the work, we perform the following actions:

first we install the frame on the frozen foundation;
we attach the rollers to the channel (it is advisable to place them as far away from each other as possible, however, taking into account that the extreme rollers should not touch the plug when closing;
after that, the rollers are installed in the lower part of the fence and selected using a liquid level;
when everything is aligned, the planes of the carts are scalded to secure it;
the same is done with endings and catchers;
we control that the extreme rollers coincide with the catcher both below and with the vertical axis of the frame.

In fact, everything is already ready. It remains only to sheathe them with a professional sheet. Here it is advisable to use fasteners as measuredly as possible. It should be noted that the material we have chosen will be optimally fastened with self-tapping screws or rivets. The last details will look nice and stylish.

However, when you want to remove the professional sheet, in order, for example, to replace it with something or repair it, or fix it, it will be almost impossible without damaging the entire structure. Also, fasteners are best carried out only in profile recesses, while the distance between the rivets should not be too wide. Otherwise, the material can be quickly blown off by a strong wind. Practice shows that the best option is to use 6 self-tapping screws per 1 m squared.

Finally, I would like to note that if the size of the existing site makes it possible to put swing fences on it, then you should not neglect this opportunity. Firstly, it is reliable, secondly, it is convenient, thirdly, it saves space well, and fourthly, all work, from the foundation to the components, will ultimately cost much less than any other options. If for some reason only the recoil type can be installed, then it is worth remembering that here it will be necessary to spend energy and money on automation.

Increasingly, on personal and suburban areas, one can see metal profile gates of a wide variety of shapes and sizes. This material has many advantages: strength, reliability, presentable appearance, long service life and low cost. How to make a gate from corrugated board yourself quickly and at no extra cost - read below.

An example of a wicket made of corrugated board - a photo of the option with installation on brick pillars

How to choose the size of a wicket from corrugated board?

There are no strict mandatory norms and restrictions regarding the size of wickets. However, when choosing them, you need to consider the following:

The optimal width of the wicket made of corrugated board is 1.0 m. Such a width of the opening allows you to easily bring furniture or other overall things onto the site. Moreover, if it is larger, then this can lead to rapid wear of the hinges or skewing of the wicket door.
The height of the wicket should not exceed 2.0 meters. If the fence around the site has a high height, then such a wicket made of a profiled sheet will not look very good. In this case, it is better to install additional crossbeams with an insert from a metal profile in the opening between the support pillars above it. This will allow not to overload the door leaf itself.

Naturally, there are exceptions to these rules. For example, if your height or the height of someone from your family is higher than 2.0 meters, then making a gate from a high-height corrugated board will be simply necessary. However, you should not forget about using special hinges and reinforcing the frame with additional cross members.

Installation of support pillars

The first and one of the most labor-intensive stages of work is the installation of support pillars, on which the gate from the metal profile will be held, with your own hands. This is not difficult to do, but it will take a lot of time, especially when it comes to brickwork.

There are two options for a profiled sheet fence. The first and the simplest is the option of attaching the fence to the posts made of metal pipes dug into the ground. In the second version, a fence with a gate and a wicket made of corrugated board is attached to pillars made of brick or stone.

Using metal support pillars

The use of a profiled sheet for the manufacture of an entrance group has become so widespread, since it is very simple and inexpensive to make a wicket and gates from corrugated board. Therefore, in the overwhelming majority of cases, it is metal pipes that are used as supports. It is much easier, cheaper and faster to install them than brick ones.

For the support posts of the wicket, it is best suited profile pipe 80x80 mm with a wall thickness of 3-4 mm... For their installation, holes are dug in the ground, at least 300x300 mm in size and at least 1.0 m deep.

The depth of the holes depends on what kind of soil is in the place where the pillars are installed. If the soil is stony, then 70 cm will be enough. But if the soil is clay, the depth of the holes should not be less than the depth of freezing of the soil. In most regions of the middle lane, this is 1.2 m.

be careful

Installing a wicket made of corrugated board on insufficiently deep pillars in heaving soil leads to serious deformations of the frame and canvas, the correction of which is often impossible.

Support posts made of brick or stone

In this case, the dimensions of the foundation must be larger than the cross-section of the support pillar. Usually, such pillars are made in 1.5 bricks, that is, 390x390 mm. Therefore, the foundation must be at least 500x500 mm in size. Since it is much more difficult to make such posts for wickets from corrugated board yourself, this option is chosen less often.

By itself, the brickwork does not withstand the bending load, therefore, to give the pillar additional strength, a metal pipe is installed in the pit before the foundation is poured with concrete. Around it, brick or stone masonry is performed. Metal embeds are welded to the same pipe, which are removed outside the masonry. They will subsequently be used for installation of gates and wickets made of corrugated board.

Classic metal profile wicket - photo of installation on poles using an external frame and mortgages

The top of the metal support posts must be closed with plugs to prevent moisture from entering the post. If it is planned to install lamps near the wicket, then before concreting the pillars in them, it is necessary to tighten the wire in the corrugated pipe.

Preparation of parts for the frame

While the concrete mixture in the foundations of the pillars is gaining the necessary strength, you can start assembling the gate itself. Before you make a gate from corrugated board with your own hands, you need to make a frame for it.

For the frame take profile pipe 40x40 mm or 60x30 mm... A light small gate can also be made from a 40x20 pipe, but then, to give the frame the necessary rigidity, the pipe must be placed with the narrow side against the profiled sheet sheathing.

A layer of rubble is poured onto the bottom of the pit and carefully compacted. Then pillars are installed in it strictly vertically, using a level, and the pit is filled with concrete mixture. It is possible to hang gates and gates from a metal profile on concrete pipes no earlier than after 5-6 days. This time is necessary for the concrete to gain at least 20-30% of its strength.

In order to avoid mistakes in the preparation of parts, before cutting the pipe, it is better to first draw a sketch or make a drawing of a wicket made of corrugated board with all the necessary dimensions. An example of such a drawing is shown below.

Detailed drawing of a wicket from a metal profile

The prepared pipe is cleaned of rust with a metal brush and cut into pieces of the required length. For assembly, the edges of the blanks are cut at an angle of 45 °.

In addition, in order to make a gate from corrugated board, it is necessary to cut out one or two crossbars, depending on its height, which should fit closely between the large sides of the frame. This will make the structure more rigid and subsequently facilitate the installation of the lock.

Welding the wicket frame

The workpieces are connected to each other by welding. So that the frame does not deform at the same time, before making a gate from a profiled sheet, the workpieces must be fixed from the profiled pipe in homemade conductor.

It is very simple to make it:

Take a sheet of OSB with a thickness of at least 10 mm or a sheet of thick plywood.
A canvas is cut from it, the width and height of which must be at least 50 mm larger than the planned dimensions of the wicket.
Clamps are being prepared, which will hold the frame elements, pressing the metal profiles to the sheet surface. The clamps should be twice as large as the welds.

Before welding a wicket from corrugated board, all corners are carefully checked and frame diagonals are measured. One or two crossbars are installed between the upper and lower crossbars of the wicket frame. Then the clamps are installed, which should be at a short distance from the welding site.

Diagram of how to weld a gate from corrugated board using a conductor from an OSB plate and clamps

After fixing all elements of the frame on the jig, it is necessary to check the angles and parallelism of the opposite sides of the frame again. Then you can start welding. In this case, the clamps cannot be removed until the seams have completely cooled down - otherwise, the temperature stresses in the metal can deform and even destroy the metal. After the end of welding, all joints are cleaned.

Thanks to a similar welding technology, a wicket from a profiled sheet with your own hands can be made even by a completely newbie. Moreover, even if you have some experience in welding, I do not recommend neglecting the fixation of the workpiece. Remember that making a new frame after accidentally damaging the old one will take longer and cost more than making a simple jig.

Drawing for a metal swing gate with a wicket made of corrugated board (click to enlarge)

In small suburban areas, gates with a wicket made of corrugated board are often installed. All operations for assembling the wicket frame built into the door leaf are carried out in the same way as described above. The design of the gate is subject to change, in which an opening for installation must be provided. In addition, the need to build in a wicket imposes certain restrictions on its height.

Installation of fittings on metal profile gates

After assembling the frame of the wicket, but before sewing the frame with a metal profile, hinges and plates are welded to the wicket for installing a lock and a handle, if necessary.

Hinges for a wicket made of corrugated board are installed towards each other and seized with welded seams with a length of 1-2 cm. The hinges are placed so that the canvas cannot be removed after the final installation. With this installation, the gate can only be cut off with a grinder. Loops are fastened at a distance of 25-30 cm from the upper and lower edges of the canvas.

Installation of hinges on a wicket from a profiled sheet

When choosing a lock for a wicket made of corrugated board, it is imperative to pay attention to the conditions of its operation specified by the manufacturer in the passport. The lock must be designed for outdoor installation... When choosing the core of the lock, preference should be given to those that open from the inside without a key. This will save you problems if the water freezes in the castle in winter.

When the door leaf is opened inward, the lock can be either mortise or overhead. If the wicket door opens outward, only a mortise lock is installed on it. The lock and handle for corrugated wicket doors are usually installed at a height of approximately 90 cm.

Of the mortise locks, the most convenient are special narrow profile locks designed for installation in profile pipes. The very principle of their installation partially protects them from moisture and dust, which increases their service life.

Narrow profile lock for corrugated wicket doors

Before you cut the lock into the corrugated board gate, it is necessary to mark the place of its installation: a rectangular slot for the body and a circle for the core. In addition, it is better to immediately outline the points of attachment of the handle. Further, the installation process is quite simple:

With the help of a grinder, slots are made along the long sides.
Holes are drilled along the short sides with a drill as close to each other as possible. It is necessary to drill not along the marking strip itself, but slightly inside the rectangle.
To install a mortise lock in a corrugated gate to the desired shape, the hole is brought with a file.
Round holes for the core are sawn out using a metal burr. If it is absent, you can also use drilling along the contour and finishing with a file.
Holes are drilled for mounting screws.
The area around the castle is cleaned of rust, primed and painted.
The lock is installed on the wicket made of corrugated board, but without overlays - they are mounted after the frame has been sewn up.

This completes the installation of the lock in the frame. However, since putting a lock on a corrugated gate is only half the battle, the work does not end there. It is necessary to install the counterpart in support post... This stage is performed after the installation of the wicket door on the poles.

Illustrative example how to insert a lock into a corrugated gate (click to enlarge)

Additionally, a lock or a latch can be installed on the wicket door made of corrugated board. Such solutions make sense both in terms of increasing safety and convenience - especially if the gate is often used. In this case, it is easier to close it with a latch than to fiddle with the lock every time. You can also purchase a latch lock straight away and not install it separately.

How to install a corrugated wicket gate on the support pillars?

After several days have passed, the concrete mixture in the foundations of the support pillars has gained some of its strength, and the assembly of the frame is completed, you can install the wicket from corrugated board.

For this, a wooden block is placed under the frame. The wicket is positioned strictly vertically with the help of a level and the attachment points of the second halves of the hinges are marked on the support post. It should be remembered that for normal opening in winter, the canvas must be 100 mm higher than the track surface. Especially if you are installing a wicket to a dacha from corrugated board, where snow is rarely cleaned in winter.

Having marked the installation locations of the hinges, they are temporarily attached to the support pillars using electric welding. After checking the opening and closing of the wicket, the hinges are welded with a continuous seam.

Consider

Do-it-yourself installation of a wicket from corrugated board requires care and repeated rechecking, because without a "fresh look" from the outside it is easy to make a mistake.

If the wicket is installed correctly, it should not spontaneously open or close. So that it does not open in both directions, a limiter is welded onto the support opposite to the hinges.

When the welding work is completed, all seams are cleaned with an angle grinder, and rust is removed from the frame and primed. Then they are painted twice with paint for metal for outdoor use. In this case, the main part of the lock installed in the frame must be closed with a film or construction tape.

Steel profile wicket door frame mounted on poles

This is the penultimate stage before sewing, since it is also necessary to install a lock on the corrugated gate in the support post. For this, the bolt is smeared with toothpaste and the lock is closed. After that, the place where the locking device should go will be marked on the post.

If the lock is simple and there is no receiving unit, then you just need to drill a hole of the desired shape and finish it with a file. If there is a receiving block, then you must first mark its location based on the place where the crossbar enters, and then, again, drill a hole of the desired shape. Then the holes for the fasteners are drilled, and the counterpart is installed.

Sewing a wicket from a profiled sheet

After the paint has dried, the wicket door is sewn up with a profiled sheet. As a rule, for this, wall sheeting C-20 or C-21 with a thickness of 0.5-0.6 mm is used. The use of a sheet with a lower wave height is not recommended.

For fastening the profiled sheet, roofing screws are used, less often - special rivets. Sometimes bolted connections are used for this, but this is not recommended, since in this case the necessary protection against corrosion is not provided for the web in the place where the bolt passes through the profiled sheet. Sheets are fastened through each wave horizontally and into each transverse beam - vertically.

Walled-in corrugated wicket with sides closed corners

If desired, all sides of the wicket made of corrugated board are closed with special square strips in the color of the corrugated sheet. This gives it a finished look and, moreover, provides additional protection for the frame from moisture.

After the sewing of the canvas, the lining on the lock is installed, as well as the handle on the wicket made of corrugated board.

Wicket design from corrugated board

After the frame is ready, it's time to think about the decoration. Despite the relative simplicity of the design, there can be a lot of design options, including the use of decorative elements.

The simplest corrugated wicket door is a rectangular frame made of a shaped or round steel pipe, on which a metal profiled sheet is attached. Such a gate is perfect for a fence made of corrugated board - it will fit especially well into the usual blank fence of a summer cottage or personal plot. A similar solution looks good with a fence made of brick or stone, including when using pillars made of these materials as supports.

A wicket made of corrugated board with forging will look even more beautiful. In this case, the profiled sheet will serve as a kind of background for decorative forged parts. In addition, if forged elements cover the entire opening, they strengthen the frame of the wicket and make it more resistant to burglary.

A wrought-iron gate made of corrugated board with your own hands can be made without special problems... Now ready-made decorative forged parts can be bought in almost any building materials store. The main thing is not to overdo it with forged elements, so that the door leaf does not look colorful and overloaded with decor.

To begin with, it is better to draw a sketch of the design of the gate. The parts purchased in accordance with the sketch are laid out on the canvas and welded to the frame, starting with the largest and ending with the smallest. However, such gates made of corrugated board with forging elements look much worse than the products of real specialists.

Wicket gate made of corrugated board with forging - a photo of some forged elements made on production lines, as well as a simple sketch that can be realized with the help of them.

Firstly, professional art forging allows you to make very delicate and delicate elements that cannot be produced industrially. Secondly, the range of ready-made items is very limited. And thirdly, a wrought-iron gate with corrugated board, made by a professional, can reflect any idea and is stylistically integral, unlike composite products.

Finally, a wicket can be either a separate object or part of a gate. So, swing gates with a wicket made of corrugated board are often used. This decision is justified if, for some reason, you are severely limited in the size of the entrance group - for example, you are changing the old gate and want to install new ones on the same support pillars.

When self-manufacturing wickets

If all the work on installing and assembling the gate was done by hand, you will have to pay only for the materials that were needed for this. Usually, the total cost is up to 2000-2500 rubles.

But you don't have to make the gate yourself. You can buy metal profile gates in the construction departments of most supermarkets. Ready-made gates from corrugated board can also be purchased in specialized companies engaged in the manufacture of metal structures. There you can order the manufacture of such a product according to your own sketch, while receiving a free technical consultation. When such a gate from corrugated board is installed, its price will be from 4,500 rubles, excluding the cost of constipation and hinges.

If, for some reason, it was also necessary to attract specialists to install a wicket from a metal profile, the price of such work in different regions of the Russian Federation will be from 2,100 to 2,500 rubles. And this is also without the cost of installing the lock.

Any fence around an individual building site should have a convenient equipped entrance for people and a gate for a car to enter the territory. In this case, the construction of wickets and gates must be strong enough to provide, if necessary, protection against the ingress of strangers. One of the popular materials that meets these requirements is a metal profiled sheet or corrugated board, fixed on a frame made of a shaped steel pipe and a corner.

By the way of opening, the gates made of profile pipes and corrugated board can be sliding or swinging. The single leaf of the sliding gates is shifted to the side along the line of the installed fence of the site. The movement of such a structure can be carried out manually, but more often a mechanical drive with an electric motor is installed for this.

The main advantage of sliding gates is that they do not require free space on the street or yard to open them. However, with large dimensions of the canvas, it is necessary to strengthen the entire structure or install special elements so that the side farthest from the bearing support does not sag down under its own weight.

Swing structures

This is a simpler corrugated door with a wicket, consisting of 1 or 2 pivoting leaves, each of which is installed on a separate support post. A wicket for the passage of people can be mounted separately or located on the surface of one of the doors.

Option of a gate with jibs.

A variant of a gate with an upper headroom and crossbeams.

Thanks to a simple device, swing gates from corrugated board can be made by hand and installed independently.

Determining the size of the gate

The accepted width of swing structures depends on the overall dimensions of the vehicle that will pass through them. It is necessary to add 1200-1500 mm to this dimension in order to simplify the possibility of entering with a turn from the street side, or 800-900 mm if there is a direct access road section in front of the gate.

In addition, it is necessary to take into account the width of the profiled sheet, which will reduce the amount of scrap and metal waste in the manufacture of doors to a minimum.

The overall dimensions of most passenger car models do not exceed 2000 mm, on average 1700-1900 mm. Based on this, we can say that the optimal width of swing gates is in the range of 4000-4500 mm taking into account the overall dimensions of the support pillars. The width of the wicket, convenient for the passage of people, is usually taken equal to 1200 mm.

The height of the swing gate depends on the length of the profiled sheet, which in the standard version is 2000 mm. When adding to this value the gap between the leaves and the ground we get a height within 2150-2250 mm... An elevated position above the ground is necessary to be able to open in the presence of ice or snow in winter.

Drawing of the gate from corrugated board.

What to make gates, wickets and pillars

The calculation of the required amount of materials for gates with a wicket made of corrugated board can be done only on the basis of the drawing of the gate, which contains the following data:

the width of the opening between the support pillars;
the size of the swing doors;
configuration of the bearing frame of the flaps with an indication of the material and section of its constituent elements;
number, location and dimensions of support posts;
installation location and dimensions of the wicket;
mounting places for welded hinges;
information about the lock and latches.

If necessary, reinforcement elements of the structure should be applied to the drawing to increase the resistance to wind loads. The kit includes:

profiled sheathing sheet;
steel pipes 60x60 mm with a wall thickness of 2.5-3.0 mm for installation as a pillar support;
profile pipes 40x40 mm or 60x20 mm for assembling the supporting frame of the doors and wickets;
self-tapping screws with a hex head for securing the profiled sheet;
metal sheet or strip for the manufacture of kerchiefs and mortgages;
welded mesh for reinforcement brickwork pillars;
hinges, latches, latches and bottom latches;
primer, paint, solvent;
welding electrodes.

Strengthening of the frame structure is carried out using a 20x20 mm profile pipe or an equal angle corner of the same size. For additional decoration of the gate, you can purchase forged decorative elements that will be welded along the upper edge of the sashes.

Characteristics of corrugated board for gates and fences.

Layout and earthworks

In order to mark the placement of the support pillars, it is necessary to determine the location of the wicket. With its separate installation, there will be 3 pillars, and with a sash built into the canvas, 2 supports are enough.

If a fence is already installed around the site, pull the cord between its end posts. The position of the thread will indicate the line of the position of the fence made of corrugated board with a gate and a wicket, and will also allow you to mark the installation locations of the pillars in accordance with the prepared drawing.

The bearing base of the brick pillar is a profile pipe 60x60 mm.

For its vertical installation and subsequent concreting, you need to drill 2 or 3 holes in the ground. Drill diameter 120-140 mm. Digging holes with a shovel will increase their size and waste concrete. The depth of the pit must be at least 1/3 of the height of the rack to be installed.

Materials for the manufacture of support pillars

After completing the excavation work, you can proceed to the installation of poles for hanging the gates and wickets. They can be made from:

steel round or shaped pipes with a cross section of 150 mm;
asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of at least 200 mm;
finished reinforced concrete products of the appropriate shape;
natural stone;
building blocks;
red clay or silicate bricks.

The most reliable, beautiful and affordable construction for doors made of corrugated board with their own hands are considered to be brick supports. Their masonry is reinforced with a metal stand in the form of a profile pipe 60x60 mm and welded mesh.

The procedure for erecting brick pillars

Clean the profile pipe of the required length from traces of rust, if any, and paint in two layers. After that:

pour a layer of crushed stone with a thickness of 100 mm and a layer of sand 50 mm into the pit, compact the bulk material well;
prepare concrete from cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of components 1: 3: 4 (5);
assemble the formwork;
install the metal post vertically and concreting it.

The fixation of the rack strictly vertically can be ensured using the spacers of their metal bar or reinforcement.

The upper plane of the concrete pour should be 50-100 mm higher than the ground level. For this, a formwork is installed, the edges of which should go beyond the dimensions of the future pillar by 50-70 mm. After the concrete has hardened:

cover the surface with waterproofing material or bitumen mastic;
lay a layer of mortar and lay the first row of 4 bricks;
after 4-5 rows, weld a metal bar with a fixing plate to the vertical metal stand to secure the pivoting hinges.

The next rows are laid with obligatory bandaging (overlapping) of the lower vertical seams. Every 3-4 rows, place a reinforcing mesh that can be slipped over the top of the steel upright. The thickness of the seams is 8-10 mm.

Carry out constant control of the vertical position of the masonry using a building level or a plumb line. On the surface of each pillar from the side of the sash, 2-3 insert plates must be installed. Their number depends on the size and total weight constructions.

Assembly of frames for sashes and wickets

On a flat surface, draw or mark out a rectangle corresponding to the size of the gate leaf. To check the accuracy of the right angles, measure both diagonals of the rectangle. They must be exactly the same. Weld the outer frame from the main section shaped pipe, cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

Strengthening of the frame is carried out by installing transverse and diagonal bridges from a profile pipe of a smaller section or angle.

In the event that the gate for the fence from the profiled sheet is located on the plane of the sash, it is necessary to weld inside the frame two vertical posts from the pipe of the main section and one horizontal at a height corresponding to the dimensions of the entrance. The welded-in rack, on which the loops for hanging the wicket will be located, are best made of two vertical pipes welded together.

Grind all welds to a level surface with a grinder. Remove rust, if any, traces of dirt, oil from the metal surface and paint it 2 times with paint for outdoor use.

Securing the loops

Gates and wickets are installed on large garage hinges. Initially, all hinges are electrically welded to the embedded plates on the support posts. The weld is made along the entire length of the fastening edge.

When installing, make sure that the central part of the hinge does not fall into the gap between the post and the sash. Before hinging the door on the hinges, do not forget about a sufficient amount of grease, which must work in a wide temperature range and not be washed out by water.

Fittings installation

A complete set of swing gate fittings may include such devices as:

locks with which you can reliably close the gate and wicket from either side;
lower clamps required to hold the lower part of the doors in a fixed position and partially relieve the load from the lock;
latch or latch for locking the gate from the inside;
mechanical drive and remote control automation;
lighting devices, alarm and surveillance camera.

The installed lock can be padlock, overhead or mortise. Mortise locks are installed completely or partially inside the profile pipe, from which the sash frame is welded. Sometimes overhead metal boxes are used for such an installation.

Bottom clips.

Fastening the profiled sheet

In simple designs, the corrugated board is mounted on the outside of the swing gate. A more complex and heavy, but beautiful and neat version provides for cladding on both sides. The overlap of sheets is made with the obligatory overlap of adjacent canvases for one common wave.

Fastening is carried out using special roofing screws for a hexagonal bit with a washer and a rubber gasket. In this case, the fasteners are screwed not only into the frame along the perimeter, but also into all horizontal and diagonal jumpers.

Cross-shaped jumpers.

The recommended spacing between fastening hardware is 80-100 mm. Instead of self-tapping screws, rivets can be used with the ability to install on one side using special tool... This is more expensive, but avoids the corrosion of the fasteners and the possible formation of rusty streaks over time.

The nuances of the device built-in gates

A wicket, located on one of the gate leaves, is less convenient in everyday use than a free-standing one, but it allows:

reduce the cost of installing swing gates;
reduce the size of the required opening in the fence;
refuse to install the third support pillar.

Scheme of a gate with a wicket in one of the leaves.

The opening for the wicket can be located on the edge near the support post, in the center of the leaf plane or closer to the middle of the gate.

It is possible to manufacture gate leaves of different sizes, when the smaller of them will be used as a wicket. In terms of cost, this option is the most low-budget. However, an increase in the weight load on the support post should be taken into account, on which the larger sash will be fixed.

When installing a wicket door on the plane of the gate wing, the presence of lower clamps in the set of accessories is mandatory.

Brand	Overall sheet width, mm	Useful sheet width, mm	Profile height, mm	Metal thickness, mm
S-8	1200	1150	8	0,4-0,8
S-10	1155	1130	10	0,4-0,7
S-15	1200	1150	15	0,4-0,8
S-18	1150	1100	18	0,4-0,8
S-20	1150	1100	20	0,4-0,8
S-21	1051	1000	21	0,4-0,8
S-44	1047	1000	44	0,5-0,8
MP-18	1150	1100	18	0,4-0,8
MP-20	1150	1100	18	0,4-0,8
MP-35	1076	1035	35	0,5-1
N-60	902	845	60	0,5-1
N-75	800	750	75	0,7-1,2
N-114	646	600	114	0,7-1,2
NS-35	1100	1035	35	0,5-1
NS-44	1050	1000	20	0,4-0,8

We study the design of the gate

We will make the simplest two-winged gate. Having mastered the technology, you will be able to build more: sliding, lifting, etc.

The gate leaves can swing inward and outward. At this point, be guided by the features of the site and your preferences. The most popular option is outdoor plowing.

The structure consists of support legs, frame and sheathing. Pipes and profiles are usually used to assemble supports and frames. The diameter of the pipes and the dimensions of the profiles are selected individually, taking into account the dimensions and weight of the future doors. The main load will fall on the external elements of the frame. For the manufacture of internal parts, you can use a smaller profile. Sheathing is performed with profiled sheets.

Choosing the size of the flaps

Before starting work, it is important to determine the optimal size of the swing leaves. At this point, be guided by the dimensions of the vehicle that will pass through the gate being built.

So, for the passage of most passenger cars, a gate with a width of 4 m is sufficient. For a truck, the opening will have to be expanded on average to 6 m. Based on this, we calculate the width of each leaf. Choose the height at your discretion. Most often, gates are erected with a height of 2-2.5 m.

Helpful advice! Make the size of the gate with some margin, because it is possible that in the future you will buy a new vehicle, which will have more impressive dimensions compared to the existing machine.

To make the work easier and faster, we draw up a drawing of the future gate with an indication of the dimensions of all structural elements.

Making the foundation

First step. We mark the places for the installation of vertical supports. There will be 3 such racks in total: one for attaching the wicket and a pair for mounting the sashes.

Second step. We dig holes with a diameter of about 20-25 cm (depending on the size of the selected racks, more on that later) to install the supports. We calculate the depth of the holes so that it is approximately 30-35% of the height of the above-ground part of the supports. We take into account that the height of the door leaf is usually 50 cm less than the height of the supports.

Thanks to such a stock, the required 20-30-centimeter gap between the ground and the lower edge of the sash will be provided, and the rest of the stock, at the request of the owner, can be used for mounting various decorative elements at the top of the structure.

Step three. We fill the bottom of each groove with a 10-15 cm layer of gravel. We carefully tamp the pillow.

Fourth step. We are preparing for pouring the supports. We take part of M400 cement, a couple of parts of sand and 4 parts of fine gravel. We mix dry ingredients, gradually adding water to them until a mixture of a viscous consistency is obtained.

Fifth step. We insert support posts into the pits. They can be made from different materials, namely:

timber with a section of 15x15 cm;
round logs with a diameter of 20 cm;
channel beams with walls at least 1.5 cm thick;
profile pipe with a cross section of 8x10 cm with walls not thinner than 7 mm.

We set the supports strictly vertically and fill with mortar to the top of the pits. In the case of using wooden racks, we pre-process their buried parts and wrap them with roofing felt or smear them.

To make the metal supports more stable, we can pre-attach by welding to their lower ends 3-4 horizontal strips made of steel reinforcement, metal angle or pipes.

Let the concrete grab. For this he needs at least 2-3 days. According to GOST, concrete gains strength on average within a month.

While the concrete dries, let's start making the frame.

Making a frame

It is advisable to make the frame from the same material as the supports. Most often, the racks and the frame are made of metal products. We assemble the frame from a profiled tube.

To assemble the frame, we find a horizontal platform that can freely accommodate at least one sash.

The process is extremely simple: we need a rectangular frame from a pipe (profile) pre-cut into pieces of the required dimensions. The corners must be strictly straight. We are convinced of this with the help of a square.

Having welded the frame, we strengthen it in the corners with steel corners. To give the frame additional rigidity, we divide it in height into 3 approximately equal parts and weld parallel horizontal bridges according to the marks. The joints of the lintels with the frame are also reinforced with steel corners. At the same points we weld the gate hinges.

Helpful advice! There is another popular option for strengthening the frame. To do this, in the center of the frame to its vertical sides, there is a horizontal lintel dividing the frame into 2 identical rectangles. After that, the corners of each of these rectangles are connected by diagonal bridges. Choose either of the two hardening methods discussed, they are both good.

The frame for the wicket door is assembled in the same way. If you want to make a wicket right in the gate leaf, assemble the frame in a slightly different order. To do this, weld the transverse and longitudinal metal lintels to the rectangular frame of the selected sash, thereby forming the frame of the wicket. The average dimensions of the wicket are 80x180 cm. If possible, adhere to these values. The hinge attachment points on the sash are shifted to the upper and lower edges of the frame.

Prices for popular models of welding machines

Welders

We fit the sashes to the racks

First step. We install the gate leaves on supports, which can be made of timber, brick or other suitable material.

Second step. We align the sash on all planes.

Step three. The loop elements are already present on our frame. We mark the places for installing the second part of the connecting element on the supports. We weld the hinges to the posts using the marks.

Fourth step. We hang the sash. We remove the stands installed at the beginning of work.

We mount the frame of the second post in the same way. To make the structure even more rigid, we can weld the two end supports of the gate with the posts of our fence.

To increase the door resistance to wind loads, we can weld a horizontal metal profile bar along the upper ends of the support posts. Relevant only for those situations when only light vehicles will pass through the gate.

We weld one part of the hinge to the rack, the second to the frame, make cutouts in the profiled sheet before fastening.

In conclusion, it remains for us to paint the parts of the frame that will remain in sight after attaching the profiled sheets. We select the color of the paint so that it is in good harmony with the color of the profiled sheet and the fence.

We fix the corrugated board

The width of the profiled sheet is usually 110 cm. About 10 cm will be spent on the overlap. Thus, for sheathing a two-meter-wide sash, exactly 2 sheets of material are needed. If desired, the gate can be sheathed on both sides.

We fasten the sheets with hex screws and nuts or with special rivets. It is better that the color of the fasteners and the base material is the same.

If necessary, pre-paint the fastening elements. Place the bolts or rivets in the inner wave of the sheet (the one that fits snugly against the frame). We carry out the fixation in each wave of the profiled sheet. For greater convenience, we can pre-make holes in the frame to accommodate fasteners.

The wicket is sheathed in the same way as the shutters. You just need to pre-cut the sheets according to the size of the gate.

Useful Notes

The fence is ready. In order for the work to be done as efficiently as possible, and the finished result to please you, read a few useful notes and take them into account in the process of making the structure.

The gate is installed in a single plane with the fence.
The wicket and gates must be equipped with reliable locks and comfortable handles.
Fences and gates should be in harmony in color with each other and with the surrounding landscape.

The knowledge gained will help you make high-quality, reliable and beautiful gates from a profiled sheet with your own hands. Follow the instructions and everything will definitely work out.

Prices for popular types of corrugated board

Corrugated board

Happy work!