How to make a widening in a columnar foundation. The technology of creating a columnar foundation on your own. Structural tasks from supporting pillars

One of the popular foundations for small houses and outbuildings is columnar. It is attractive for its low cost, ease of execution and the fact that even a person who is not particularly experienced in construction can build it with his own hands. A good columnar foundation is also the fact that it can be designed for most buildings and conditions.

Device and types

A columnar foundation consists of a number of supporting pillars that transfer the load from the building to the ground. Pillars can have a rectangular or circular cross-section, can be made from:

• monolithic reinforced concrete;
• bricks (solid ceramic, well fired);
• concrete (from heavy concrete grade not lower than B15) and reinforced concrete blocks;
• rubble and rubble concrete.

The most reliable ones are made of monolithic reinforced concrete. They can be used on soils prone to heaving with high groundwater levels. All the rest consist of elements fastened with concrete mortar and are inferior in strength to a monolith. They are recommended for use on normal soils.

Pillars are necessarily placed in the corners of the building, at the junction of walls and piers. If at the same time the distance between the supports exceeds 3 m, they put additional ones. The installation step is on average 1.5-2.5 m. The heavier the building will stand, the smaller the step, but more often than 1 m it makes no sense to put it: the foundation will turn out to be too expensive.

Types of grillage

In order for the load from the building to be evenly transmitted to the pillars, they are tied with a transverse beam - a grillage or a shallow tape. This eliminates one of the main disadvantages of columnar bases - the possible uneven shrinkage of the supports.

In the construction of wooden houses or frame frames, a wooden beam of a large section is often used as a grillage, sometimes metal is used - a profiled pipe of a large section or T-beams / I-beams. To connect the beams and strapping during the construction of pillars, studs, special fasteners are laid in them, or reinforcement is released. The form of mortgages is selected based on the planned type of grillage.

For heavy houses, a concrete beam is made. It can be composite - from ready-made reinforced concrete beams, or it can be monolithic. Although the composite ones are easier to implement (buy, deliver, tie), the monolithic is cheaper, and even more reliable. Therefore, a monolithic grillage is used more often. It is more suitable for houses made of bricks and other heavy materials.

In the manufacture of a columnar foundation with a monolithic grillage, the reinforcement of the pillars is done with a release of at least 70 cm. These releases are then connected with the reinforcement of the grillage frame.

Annexes and their foundations

If there are lighter extensions to the house - a porch, a veranda, a track - the foundations are made separate and disconnected. This means that they make their own contour for the house, and their own for the porch. And they should not have points of contact with each other. Since the grillages (beams passing along the top of the supports) are located side by side, a damper layer is laid between them. For example, roofing material in two layers, mineral wool cardboard and other similar materials.

This is necessary since the weight of these elements is very different, respectively, the value of the load on the foundation is different. If you make it coherent, a big difference will cause distortion, and possibly destruction of the building.

How to close the gaps between the pillars

When installing a columnar foundation, the building turns out to be raised above the ground and a draft is walking under the rough floor. This is good for maintaining normal moisture content in the wood, but bad for heating: the floor is too cold. One more point: all living creatures like to settle under the house. And home and not so ... For these reasons, they try to close the space between the posts. This can be done in two ways:

• a pick-up device - stone or brickwork between the posts;
• by attaching pieces of sheet material or finishing materials.

Easier, of course, to attach sheet material. It is then cut off so that it does not rest against the ground. The remaining gap is useful for both ventilation and heaving compensation.

Zabirka is done if they plan to make an insulated blind area around the house. At the same time, it is installed so that it does not support the grillage or the lower strapping - they are made on the same level with the outer edge of the posts (they should be at least 10 cm wider than the wall).

It is advisable to prepare the base for the pick-up: dig a trench at least 20-30 cm deep, pour and tamp a layer of sand, on it - rubble, which is also tamped. Then a decorative wall is placed on this compacted base.

On normal soils, small light buildings with an area of \u200b\u200bno more than 30 square meters - such as a shed, a gazebo and other similar buildings - can be made on a lightweight foundation. It is called columnar support. Usually it is one or more concrete blocks laid on a sand and gravel bed.

The planning of the pillars is the same: at corners, at the junction of the walls and intermediate, if necessary. With this type, it is important to compact the pillow well, thereby increasing the bearing capacity of the soil. And one more thing: do not use this type of base on loose or clayey water-saturated soils. Even under or. He will be completely unreliable.

What is the difference between pile and columnar foundation

If you look at the columnar foundation with round pillars and the pile foundation, at first glance there is no difference. But it is there. These are the soils on which they are placed and the depth to which they are buried. Pile foundations are placed on soils with a weak bearing capacity and their task is to pass unstable soils and transfer the load from the house to denser layers. Columnar are placed on soils with normal bearing capacity and their depth is determined by the type of soil, climatic zone and groundwater level. Structurally, they are similar, but the tasks are different, as well as different areas of application.

What is soil heave and how does it affect the choice of foundation

The most difficult to build are clay soils. They do not drain water well, and it accumulates in small cavities. When frozen, it significantly increases the volume of the soil. Increasing in volume, the soil presses on everything that is in it, including the foundation. This phenomenon is called heaving (the soil swells), and the soils, and which they are clearly expressed, are heaving.

Heaving forces are applied both from below, trying to push the column out, and from the sides, trying to move the support to the side. It is for this reason that in clay - heaving - soils it is better to make the pillars monolithic with reinforcement.

Also, so that the pillars are not pushed upwards, the lower part is made expanded. This area is called the heel and in size it is usually twice the size of the column itself, and its height is equal to 1/3 of the column section. For example, under a 40 cm post, make a heel 80 * 80 cm, 13 cm high or so.

Seams between blocks / bricks / stones in prefabricated pillars are far from always able to withstand lateral loads, therefore, to reduce the effect of heaving forces on prefabricated columnar foundations, they are made with beveled walls. This increases their reliability in heaving soils. On normal soils, the pillars are folded with even walls.

Application area

As already mentioned, the columnar foundation is also called pillar or on pillars) behaves normally on soils with normal bearing capacity. They are not used on loose sands, peat bogs and other unstable substrates. Its main features are that it is impossible to organize a basement and a blown gap between the ground level and the subfloor. They also need to be borne in mind when choosing.

They are suitable for the following cases:

At the same time, there are a number of situations (except for weak soils) when the use of foundations on pillars is not recommended:

• with a large height difference on the building site - more than 2 m;
• with complex geology with possible displacement of layers.

Otherwise, they can be used.

Depth of laying

The main criterion for choosing the parameters of the foundation is to ensure its integrity. Therefore, when planning, a safety margin of the order of 20-40% is always laid. It compensates (to some extent) for unforeseen changes in conditions (water table, unexpectedly low winter temperatures) or loads. This is especially evident in the planning of foundations: the depth of the foundation is taken with a margin and the bearing capacity is usually underestimated. It is understandable: to add something to an already finished foundation is an undertaking either very expensive or unrealistic.

The greatest margin of safety is laid on heaving soils: it is impossible to calculate their manifestation, therefore they try to do it as reliably as possible. For this, for private houses, foundations are buried below the depth of soil freezing. You will find out the average data for your region, and add about 15-25 cm to this figure. So you get the depth of the foundation. For example, in the region, the soil freezes by 1.5 m, which means the depth of the foundation is 1.65-1.75 m.

As you understand, if you make prefabricated poles - from bricks, rubble, blocks - you will have to dig a decent-sized hole for each. The bottom must be 20 cm lower than the laying depth to make the backfill. Also, the pit should be decently wider - you will have to work in it, folding the supports. This is another reason why monolithic pillars are made: holes are drilled under them, gravel or sand is poured onto the bottom and formwork is inserted (most often pipes of the required diameter). Inside of which a reinforcing element is installed - a frame made of reinforcement or a metal pipe.

This rule works for heavy buildings. But for them, columnar foundations are rarely made. They are mainly placed under light buildings: wooden or farm buildings. If a basement is not planned in such a building, it is more expedient to make the foundation shallow (depth of laying from 0.5 to 0.7 of the level of freezing) or not deep (from 0.3 to 0.5 of the depth of freezing).

An example of a non-buried columnar foundation device with a freezing depth of 1.2 m (1/3 of 120 cm is 40 cm)

With this choice, the heaving forces will act on the pillars, but since their area is less than that of the tape, the effect will not be so strong. These effects are successfully compensated by the construction of a frame or wooden house. Moreover, additional measures are being taken to reduce the impact of heaving forces:

• at the bottom of the pit, a gravel cushion is made under the post, which takes on part of the load;
• make the side surfaces smooth and additionally lubricate them with grease, bitumen mastic, epoxy resin, etc.
• make insulated

As a result, in most cases, the owners do not even notice that the foundation is "swollen". Some of the supports rose slightly, the grillage and strapping compensated for them. After thawing the ground, everything returned to its place.

In soils that drain water well, the columnar foundation is made shallow or not buried. Here it is only important to choose the right area of \u200b\u200bthe columns in order to evenly transfer the load.

Pole sizes

There are minimum dimensions for the supports of a columnar foundation. They depend on the materials:

• Monolithic reinforced concrete 30 cm.
• Fired brick posts - 38 cm;
• Booth, concrete blocks and rubble concrete - 40 cm;
• Masonry - 60 cm

But at the same time, the size of the pillar should be 10 cm larger than the width of the wall. For normal operation of the foundation, it is necessary that the wall falls in the middle of the support and on the sides it protrudes at least 5 cm.

Construction stages

As usual, it all starts with cleaning the site and marking. Sod is removed from the entire site, the fertile layer is removed. It is not considered a carrier and is taken out. At the same time, alignment is done - they cut off the hillocks, fall asleep and tamp pits and depressions. They control horizontality using a two-three-meter board with a building level installed on it.

Markup

Around the perimeter of the building, cast-off is installed - pillars or pillars with nailed planks - benches. They are placed at a distance of about a meter from the perimeter of the future house. With the help of cords stretched between them, they designate the perimeter and width of the future pillars.

How to mark the foundation

When setting up, make sure that the corners are strictly at 90 °, measure the diagonals of the rectangles. They must be equal. At the intersection of the stretched cords, the perpendicular is lowered down (using a plumb line), marking the dimensions of the pillars on the ground.

So you can make them all the same, as well as monitor the height when setting the formwork for monolithic pillars or when stacking prefabs.

Digging holes for posts

For prefabricated foundations, holes are dug manually or with the help of an excavator. If the depth is required up to 1 m and the soil is not loose, you can dig them with straight walls. If the depth is greater or there are signs of crumbling, the slopes are made inclined.

When we reached the design depth of the foundation, they dig another 20-30 cm below. The bottom is leveled, its dimensions should be 10-20 cm larger than the planned dimensions of the heel or post.

Easier with round posts. Wells are drilled for them with a manual or automated drill. If you plan to expand at the bottom - the heel, you can either make the hole wider - by the size of the heel, or use a drill with a folding blade. It is called the TISE drill. The additional blade opens after reaching the set depth.

Sand and gravel cushion device

A layer of crushed stone of about 10-15 cm is poured onto the bottom and rammed well. Coarse sand is poured onto the compacted crushed stone. It is spilled and rammed. The general layer of sand and gravel cushion must be such that it reaches the specified depth of the foundation.

In the case of round posts, a pillow is made as well, tamping is done whenever possible. Take a long pole with which the bedding is compacted.

Heel device

If the pillars are made prefabricated - from blocks, bricks, rubble, it is easier to make a heel from a ready-made concrete block. Placed on the sand, leveled in a level, block cushion. It has a trapezoidal section, which is convenient.

Two types of heels - one-piece made of concrete block

For monolithic ones, it makes sense to make a half of a monolith. They put the formwork according to the specified dimensions (twice the column in section and at least 1/3 of the section in height). Reinforcement is laid in two tiers. Use a rod 12-14 mm in diameter. Also, reinforcement is installed in the heel, which will then go to the pole. The result is a single reinforced concrete structure.

Building pillars

If we are talking about a monolithic pillar, then formwork is placed, reinforcement is installed inside. Formwork for square pillars is knocked out of boards; for round pillars, you can use plastic pipes of a suitable diameter. There is an economical formwork option - a roll of roofing felt of the required length. It is twisted into a pipe of the required diameter, screwed onto the standard. Having made two or three layers, fasten it with tape. It turns out a reliable formwork, which, even in the part protruding above the ground, normally holds the solution.

For reinforcement, three to four rods of class A III reinforcement with a diameter of 12-14 mm are usually used (for square, 4 is required, for round, 3 is possible). They are interconnected into a single structure with transverse dressings installed every 20-25 cm. They can be made from class A I smooth reinforcement, with a diameter of 6-8 mm. It is better to knit the frame, rather than weld it - the higher the strength.

Please note that there must be a distance of at least 50 mm from the edge of the formwork to the reinforcement bar. It is necessary so that the metal does not rust. The photo below is an example of improper reinforcement: reinforcement close to the formwork. It will rust quickly and the pole may break.

If the pillars are made of bricks, then it must be taken at marks of at least 100, corpulent, well-fired. If there is a high level of groundwater on the site, brick pillars will not go: they will quickly collapse. The mortar for laying brick pillars is made on Portland cement not lower than M 300, and preferably 400 or 500. There are several mortar options:

• 1 part cement, 3 sand;
• 1 cement, 2 lime paste, 10 sand;
• 1 part cement, 1 part clay adze, 10 parts sand.

Laying is carried out with bandaging, carefully checking the verticality. Even small deviations can then lead to the destruction of the foundation, and maybe the building.

When laying a rubble columnar foundation, stones are chosen flat with smooth edges. When laying, the vertical load should be transmitted to the entire plane of the stone, and not to its individual sections. They also lay stones with bandaging, placing the largest fragments in the corners, filling the gaps with smaller ones.

The thickness of the stones should not be more than 30 cm. They are placed on the mortar, tightly fitting to each other. The gaps are filled with rubble, ramming it well. To increase strength, such pillars can be reinforced both vertically and horizontally. Horizontal reinforcement is done every 25-40 cm, rods of at least 6 mm in diameter are inserted vertically, you can use a reinforcing mesh made of wire of the same diameter.

Important: the pillars must all be driven out to the same level. To do this, during construction or pouring, constantly beat off the vertical plane: cutting off the tops is long and difficult.

Grillage device

As mentioned earlier, when pouring monolithic pillars, embedded parts are installed in the tops:

• studs for connecting a wooden or metal strapping with a bar;
• reinforcement outlets of at least 70 cm in length for connection with the reinforcement cage of a monolithic grillage.

The strapping device is discussed in the description. You can read about the device of a monolithic grillage in the article Everything is the same, up to the calculation of the bearing capacity.

Waterproofing

To prevent moisture suction from the soil between the foundation / grillage and the strapping or the first row of masonry, a waterproofing layer is required. You can use a coating (the most common is bituminous mastic) or roll or a combination of both.

There is no point in isolating the pillars. For concrete pillars, the presence of moisture is not a minus, as for rubble. And brick is best placed on dry soils. Here is their surface, maybe it is worth soaking with some kind of deep penetration impregnation, which at times reduces hygroscopicity. The only problem is that they are expensive.

Owners of land plots, private households, dacha cooperatives think about arranging a columnar foundation with their own hands when they need to build a small and preferably light structure themselves - a bathhouse, a room for keeping poultry and animals, a veranda, an outbuilding for inventory, a barn. Unlike a strip foundation, making a columnar foundation with your own hands is much easier, and one and a half to two times cheaper. This is especially true for heavy swampy, peaty and waterlogged soils, where only heavy equipment can sometimes cope with this difficult task. But a columnar foundation can be equipped by one person with an assistant, quickly and efficiently without special mechanisms, if he knows how to do it. Therefore, the request is “ how to make a do-it-yourself columnar step-by-step instructions»Users choose quite often. Let us dwell on this issue too.

Types and purpose of the columnar foundation

Most often, the device of a columnar foundation is performed for timber structures. Experts are not recommended to erect heavy brick or stone structures on it, the supports of the foundation may deform under the weight and crack over time, which will lead to the destruction of the entire structure. Of course, there are special technologies used in permafrost regions, where the construction of a columnar foundation is the only way to build any structure, but this will require special equipment and knowledge.

Types of columnar foundations.

It is possible to distinguish several main types of supporting-columnar foundations, united by the same type of their construction, but different in the materials used in the construction process.

1. The monolithic reinforced concrete structure is the most durable of the existing columnar foundations. It can be used for one or two-storey residential wooden buildings.
2. - occurs most often, an example of this is buildings 100 or even 200 years old. The main condition for its construction is high-quality fired brick. On this basis, you can also build 1-2 storey wooden houses on dense soils, and the cross-section of the posts should not be less than 400x400mm.
3. Block foundation - has the same properties as a brick foundation. They are distinguished only by the use of materials of varying strength. The most reliable are concrete blocks. A limitation for rubble stone blocks is the high mobility of soils in your area. In the case of availability of rubble material, it is better to fill in a columnar foundation, combined - rubble-concrete. Concrete, falling between buta stones, will fix them and make the structure monolithic and strong.
4. Wooden-pole - used everywhere for light buildings. The main task of the builders is to impart durability to the entire structure, for which a long-term and reliable impregnation of wood immersed in the ground is performed. Wood supports are treated with antiseptic impregnations, bituminous mastics, after which a layer of roofing material is fixed on their surface. Most often, wooden posts with a diameter of 150-200 mm are used for annexing verandas and terraces.
5. Asbestos posts - used for the construction of both light - up to 150mm in diameter, and heavier buildings - 250-400mm in diameter. It is possible to use such hollow structures for formwork, followed by pouring a concrete composition inside the pipe, reinforcing it with reinforcing rods.
6. Metal piles are a great way to erect a structure in rough and uneven terrain. The finished structures are screwed into the soil until they reach dense and stable soil layers. On an uneven area, it is possible to correct the relief by varying the length of the selected piles

Construction of a columnar foundation with varying degrees of deepening

To competently build a columnar foundation with your own hands, you need to calculate the depth of its occurrence in the ground. It depends on many factors, so the recommendations of specialists in your area should not be neglected. Ideally, the creation of a project is required, which will take into account:

• The depth of soil freezing;
• geological features of the site relief;
• groundwater level;
• soil composition;
• climatic features of the area;
• the weight of the building being built.

There is a shallowly recessed version, when a depth of 650-700mm is sufficient for mounting the posts. Such a foundation is recommended for deep groundwater occurrence in sandy, rocky and shallow soils that are subject to minimal displacement.

The deep foundation is located at a depth of 1500-2000mm, and often even lower. It is recommended to adhere to this depth in areas with deep freezing of soils from 450-500 mm or with high mobility of soils in the construction region. The approximate distance between adjacent posts is 1000-2000mm.

Basic structures of columnar foundations

The construction of a columnar foundation usually does not cause any particular difficulties due to its rather simple design. The photo shows several options for the basic structures of the installation of a columnar foundation.

• The bottom layer in each of the structures is a sand cushion with a thickness of 100-200mm, designed to remove moisture from the foundation area, which is also a drainage.
• The next layer to be poured is concrete, 400-500mm thick, forming a concrete pad.
• Next, you should place the columnar support itself, reliably waterproof and reinforced with reinforcing rods, to give strength and durability to the entire structure.
• As a rule, the posts are raised above the ground to a certain level for the installation of a grillage or other connecting all the belt supports. He will not only tie the structure together, but also evenly distribute the load between all the erected supports.

A grillage for light buildings is usually made of a wooden bar with a section of 150x200 or 200x200mm. In the absence of a timber, it is possible to arrange - reinforced concrete, metal, brick, Butovo-concrete grillage. He can lie right on the ground, in the form strip foundation, or soar above it at various heights of 300-900mm, and sometimes even higher. Disadvantage high grillage it will be impossible to build a basement under the building, and the dignity will be appreciated by residents of flooded areas.

Column foundation with your own hands step by step instructions

1. Preparatory stage

Before building a columnar foundation, you need to select and clear a place, removing all household waste, weeds, uprooting stumps and overgrowth. Then we proceed to the removal of the top layer of soil not less than 20 cm and an area exceeding the size of the proposed structure by 2-3 meters.

The next work at the preparatory stage is comparing the relief of the site with filling the holes that have arisen and cutting off the bumps. To do this, use excess soil or a special sand and gravel composition.

Please note that it is impossible to fill the columnar foundation for the future. It is necessary immediately, after hardening, to continue construction, giving a load to the foundation. Otherwise, the flooded posts can crawl out of the ground after wintering in the ground.

2. Marking for supports

The most important stage of work is to transfer all calculated values \u200b\u200bfrom paper to the area. First, the cast-off of the corner posts is indicated, the main axes of the future house are fixed, they will serve as a guide for drawing all the main lines for laying the foundation and observing the exact dimensions. After that, the location and dimensions of all other foundation supports are determined.

Here you can watch a video showing the correct foundation of the house.

3. Construction of a columnar foundation

This stage begins with the preparation of pits for the installation of supports. Pits can be dug by hand, drilled with a hand drill, you can invite an excavator for these purposes and in any other available way. The depth of the pit should exceed the size of the support to be installed to the depth of the drainage sand cushion (15-20 cm).

If in technological process formwork is necessary, the width of the pits must be increased for its construction.

After preparing the pit, sand is poured into it and water is poured to seal it. For a reinforced concrete monolithic structure, sand is fixed with cement milk, which helps to maintain its optimal moisture content.

For the precast foundation, everything is ready to go. For a monolithic, it is required to make a reinforcing frame. For pipes - carry out anti-corrosion treatment and impregnation before installing pipes in prepared pits. Asbestos pipes - ready to use immediately.

Photo of how to correctly make a columnar foundation with your own hands.

After the preparatory work, concrete is poured directly, with its periodic vibration, to get rid of voids and obtain a strong monolith. This will ensure high strength of the base and increase its service life.

For a more even distribution of the load between all the supports of the house, a grillage or strapping layer is created. It can be metal - run-bar, reinforced concrete, in the form of a strapping bar. It depends on the type and material of the future building erected on this foundation. Before proceeding with its construction, all parts of the supports protruding above the surface are adjusted in height. You can watch the video here.

4. Waterproofing works

Groundwater and flood waters cause great harm to the erected foundations and houses on their basis. Therefore, it is not enough to correctly make a columnar foundation - you need to reliably waterproof it, capturing the grillage. To protect the supports, special bituminous compounds are often used, and to insulate the walls of the building, between the grillage and them, a layer of roofing material is laid, fixed on bitumen mastic, and gluing membranes. Such work is carried out carefully, the humidity regime in the built room depends on them. After that, all the voids formed around the supports are filled with soil, or better - with a sand and gravel composition. Such work is carried out in several stages, with diligent tamping of the laid layer.

5. Pickup

Structures erected on columnar foundations often do not have a basement. Therefore, the distance from the surface of the earth to the bottom of the building requires additional cladding. This is a kind of basement of the building and a lot depends on its arrangement:

• Floor temperature;
• Lack of drafts from under the floors;
• Protection against moisture and dust penetration into the subfloor.

Before full sheathing, ventilation ducts, laying of utilities - water supply network, sewerage should be provided.

The zabirka, after its arrangement, is decorated with brick, stone, facing tiles, decorative plaster - there are no restrictions in this process.

Before starting the construction of the filling, it is required to perform a screed 180-220mm thick, it will act as a support for the walls of the building. The height of the cap-base depends on the height of the grillage and the length of the support posts protruding above the ground. It is better to leave at least 300-400 mm for such, which is, firstly, aesthetically pleasing, but also practical. In areas with floods and high groundwater levels, the height of the intake can reach impressive dimensions, and this is economically justified. In addition, a house hovering above the ground at a high altitude looks quite impressive, despite its design, color and materials used in its construction.

Conclusion

We examined the main stages of work and learned in more detail how to correctly make a columnar foundation with our own hands. But entrusting the design of such a foundation and the entire structure is still better for specialists, especially if it is planned to build not just a shed or a toilet in a summer cottage, but a 1-2-storey house for the whole family. Such costs will pay off over time, when the house will stand for more than a dozen years and will be inherited by children and grandchildren. For these works, specialists use a special software, and today their cost has become more democratic and affordable.

Almost all happy owners of private houses, cottages or country houses would like to have a free-standing bath on their site. For its construction, you can use the services of professional builders or build a bathhouse yourself.

The basis of the strength and durability of every building is undoubtedly the foundation. Often, for the construction of a bath, wooden material is used - logs or timber, thanks to which the construction is quite easy. That is why it is advisable to build a bathhouse on a columnar foundation, which is a support pillars of various materials buried in the soil. Such supports can be mounted from wood, brick, stone, pipes, foundation blocks, reinforced concrete.

Column foundation - diagram

Before starting work, it is necessary to clean and plan the site for future construction. To do this, remove the top layer of soil (about 30 centimeters) under the planned building along with all the vegetation.

Then it is necessary to level all the pits, irregularities as much as possible, and with clayey soil, fill it with sand and gravel.

Next, we transfer the bath plan directly to the land plot using a tape measure, a building level, ordinary wooden or metal pegs and a building thread to indicate the axes. If the site is located on an area with a significant difference in the height of the sides, then to determine the height of the foundation pillars, it is advisable to use the help of a professional and level the surface. This is a guarantee that the future bath will not be distorted.

Excavation

Regardless of the choice of material for the installation of columnar supports, all foundations of this type are mounted according to a similar principle (except for the option with a grillage). This also applies to earthworks, before starting which you need to determine the type of soil, proximity to the surface of groundwater and the depth of its freezing.

These factors directly affect the installation depth of the support posts. To determine the type of soil and the level of groundwater, it is necessary to dig a hole with a depth of at least 1-1.2 meters (optimal). If there is no groundwater at this depth, and the soil is not heaving - freezing, then such a depth is quite enough for the columnar foundation of the bath.

Otherwise, you need to dig to a dense, incompressible soil layer, focusing on the following indicator: freezing depth + 40 centimeters. It must be remembered that heaving soils include those that have clay in their composition. And the more it is contained, the more the earth is prone to freezing. If these conditions are not met, then under the influence of water or freezing temperatures, the foundation can not only crack or deform, but also completely collapse.

Columnar supports of the foundation must be located at the corners of the building, at the intersection of walls, around the entire perimeter and under the partitions after 1.5-2.0 meters, depending on total weight constructions. The holes for the supports can be dug with a shovel, or you can use a special hand-held cone-shaped drill of the required diameter, thanks to which it is possible to get the most even holes.

Based on what material will be used for the construction of the columnar foundation, the required hole diameter is determined, which should be 7-10 centimeters larger than the following parameters:

• for pillars made of brick and stone, 50x50 centimeters are optimal;
• for pillars of rubble stone - 60x60 centimeters;
• for asbestos-cement pipes Ø200 mm;
• for reinforced concrete supports, 30-35 centimeters are enough;
• for intermediate ones, it is 25-30 centimeters.

We put about 20 centimeters of sand at the bottom of each prepared pit, add a little water and ram it thoroughly, thus obtaining the desired sand pillow. This completes the preparatory and excavation work. You can proceed to the direct arrangement of the columnar foundation from the selected material.

Column foundation made of pipes

The best option for a columnar foundation of a bath is metal or asbestos-cement pipes Ø200 mm, which are easily cut by a grinder into parts of the required length. It should be taken into account that a pillar made of a pipe should protrude approximately 0.4 meters above the surface.

product name	Weight of 1 pipe, kg	Indoor outdoor diameter, mm	Price for 1 p / m, rub.
BNT 100 * 3.95m	24	100/118	102,97
BNT 150 * 3.95m	36	141/161	165,79
BNT 200 * 5m	85	200/222	319,99
BNT 250 * 5m	125	238/266	392,76
BNT 300 * 5m	162	292/320	617,46
BNT 400 * 5m	279	365/407	958,66
BNT 500 * 5m	430	456/508	1732,51

It is imperative to protect pipes from moisture and other negative factors. To do this, you need to make waterproofing - wrap the pipe surface with roofing material with bitumen, glued waterproofing materials or treat with special mastics.

The prepared pipes are carefully and evenly lowered into each hole.

The gap between the pipe wall and the soil is filled with previously dug earth or sand with gravel (layer thickness 40-50 centimeters), which it is advisable to carefully tamp.

In the middle of the installed pipes, at a distance of 7 centimeters from each other, reinforcing rods of Ø12-14 millimeters should be inserted, which act as a reinforcing frame. Since the reinforcement should protrude above the finished posts, its length should be 20% longer than the pipe size.

After completing these preparatory work, you can start pouring the foundation pillars. The best option is concrete grade M400. It can be ordered in specialized enterprises or made by yourself using a concrete mixer. For self-production, it is enough to use cement of the M400 brand, coarse sand, fine and medium gravel, which must be mixed in a ratio of 1: 1.5: 3. The required amount of water is 0.4 part of the amount of cement taken.

The process of pouring concrete mix itself takes place in several stages (see table).

Work order	Illustration
inside the installed pipe, concrete is poured to a third of its height
the pipe rises, which allows the concrete to form a kind of pillow, and then it is pressed into this base
subsequently, step by step, in and around the pipe, we continue to pour concrete, tamping it every 0.3 meters with a deep vibrator for concrete, and in its absence, you can use a reinforcing bar. This is necessary to get rid of air bubbles and improve the quality of concrete.

Cover the piles made in this way with foil and let them stand for 7-10 days. During this time, the concrete is gaining the necessary strength and the construction of the bath can be continued.

This method of erecting columnar foundations is one of the most popular due to its high reliability, relative cheapness, quick installation with minimal skills.

Prices for asbestos-cement free-flow pipes

asbestos-cement free-flow pipes

Preparatory and excavation work before arranging a columnar foundation made of bricks is similar to working with pipes. But for the convenience of the master, the holes for the future pillars will not have to be drilled, but dug out manually or using technology, which is much faster, but also more expensive. At the same time, do not forget to slightly increase the volume for the convenience of work.

We fill the bottom of the prepared hole with a fifteen-, twenty-centimeter layer of sand, which we tamp, forming a sand cushion. On top of it, it is necessary to pour a concrete base, reinforced with a mesh of reinforcement. For the manufacture of the mesh, we take reinforcing bars with a cross section of 12-14 millimeters, cut according to the parameters of the pit. We lay them perpendicularly, forming square cells, the intersections of which we fasten with a thin knitting wire with a diameter of 2-3 millimeters. For the convenience of knitting, you can use a special hook, which should be purchased at a hardware store. The thickness of the concrete base (M400) together with the reinforcing mesh should not exceed 20 centimeters.

Column brick foundation - scheme

After giving concrete a few days to gain strength, you can proceed directly to the brickwork. It should be noted that hollow bricks are completely unsuitable for this. It will be optimal to use solid ceramic bricks (for example, M-100), which has the necessary strength and resistance to low temperatures.

By doing brickwork, it is advisable to check each row by level. This will allow you to get an even column. For greater strength of the pillars, you can lay a mesh of reinforcement through 3-4 rows of bricks. We muck the brick support of the foundation 15-20 centimeters above the ground level and protect it with waterproofing material - mastic or roofing material with hot bitumen. After 5-7 days, fill the finished brick pillar with earth, which we carefully tamp.

Despite the popularity of such a columnar foundation, it has its drawbacks. The seams between the bricks make such a support rather fragile and under the influence of unfavorable factors, it can undergo destruction.

Brick prices

For its manufacture, industrial-made foundation concrete blocks are used. Most often, a full-bodied or with minor voids block 20x20x40 centimeters in size is used.

It is a durable building material that can withstand significant loads. A columnar foundation of blocks is mounted by analogy with brick supports, taking into account some differences:

• due to the greater weight of the blocks, the thickness of the monolithic reinforced concrete base on top of the sand cushion varies from 50 to 70 centimeters;
• it is permissible to make it from crushed stone of a large and medium fraction instead of sand bedding. This helps to remove any moisture present;
• before installing the first row of blocks, it is necessary to make a pillow from the solution, on which the building material should be installed;
• the row to be mounted must consist of at least two blocks. Each subsequent one is installed perpendicular to the previous one and is fastened to it with ordinary cement mortar for masonry.

The last row of blocks is mounted 20-30 centimeters above the ground and covered with a waterproofing material to protect the seams and the blocks themselves from moisture and low temperature regime, which together can lead to the destruction of a columnar foundation of this type. When laying blocks on the surface, you need to carefully control their location relative to the marked axes of the future bath building. We back up the gap around the mounted block supports with previously dug soil, which we also ram.

Block foundation - photo

Placing blocks on an inclined area requires special attention. In no way should block supports be laid at the same depth. This can lead to the subsequent distortion of the bath and the destruction of the columnar foundation.

Column concrete foundation

The most robust and reliable is the reinforced monolithic columnar foundation made of concrete.

For its manufacture, we carry out preparatory and earthwork in accordance with the general technology. From reinforcement Ø12-14 millimeters we make round and square frames (we use 3 or 4 rods, respectively) of the required length, taking into account the protrusion above the post by 15-20 centimeters. To do this, we connect the rods with a thin wire with round or square rings, bent from smooth reinforcement Ø6-8 mm.

It is possible to fill in a foundation pillar of the required size only with the help of formwork, which should be made from edged boards, chipboard and other suitable materials. However, this method is rather lengthy, laborious and financially costly.

At the bottom of the prepared pit, pour a layer of 10-20 centimeters and tamp a sand cushion, on top of which we lay roofing material or polyethylene necessary to retain moisture in the poured concrete.

We immerse the mounted formwork in the hole and install the reinforced frame there.

Column foundation - formwork and reinforcement scheme

Pour concrete grade 400 into the formwork, which is prepared from cement grade M 400, coarse sand, fine and medium gravel mixed in a ratio of 1: 1.5: 3 with water in the amount of 0.4 parts of the cement used.

Every 30-35 centimeters of pouring, we ram the concrete, removing air.

Cover the finished support with a film and let it stand for several days, after which we remove the formwork from the hardened concrete.

We cover the finished supports with waterproofing materials and fill the sinuses with previously dug earth.

To reduce costs and time when arranging a columnar foundation for a concrete bath, instead of rigid formwork, you can use a non-removable soft formwork, which is a roofing material with a fiberglass mesh. In this case, the pits for the support must be made using a drill of the appropriate size. Cutting off the roofing material of the required length, twist it and install it in the prepared hole. However, a sand cushion and a bottom insulation layer are also required. Next, we carry out the installation of the reinforcement cage and the pouring of concrete as in the case of removable formwork. Using such a material, we get a finished pile, immediately covered with a waterproofing material. And immediately after the concrete gains strength, you can perform the next stage of work.

Photo - fill process

Roofing material prices

roofing felt

Video - Pouring a columnar foundation

When building a heavier building of a bathhouse (for example, made of bricks) or, if you wish, equip a basement, you can mount a columnar foundation with a grillage. This is a monolithic reinforced concrete strip structure that connects the upper points of all foundation elements buried in the ground.

To fill the grillage, you will need formwork material: edged board with a thickness of 20 to 40 millimeters, plywood, OSB or other similar building material. As well as reinforcement with a cross section of 10-12 millimeters and concrete not lower than grade 150. Most often, grade 200 concrete is used to fill the grillage, and if you make it yourself, you need to mix M400 cement, coarse sand and crushed stone of medium or fine fraction in a ratio of 1: 2, 5: 4.5.

Let's calculate the amount of timber for the formwork. It should be noted that the height of the grillage must be at least 0.3 meters, and its width is 10 centimeters greater than the width of the manufactured columnar supports.

1. We determine the immediate height of the grillage and add another 0.2 meters to it, since the height of the formwork should be greater than the level of concrete poured into it.
2. We fix the thickness of the material for the formwork in meters.
3. We measure the total length of the future grillage.
4. We multiply all the obtained parameters among ourselves and obtain the required amount of material for the formwork in cubic meters.

From the prepared lumber we knock down the formwork box. In its lower part, holes should be cut for previously made pillars, which should rise slightly above the lower part of the formwork.

Video - Installation of formwork

It is necessary to make frames with transverse square clamps from reinforcement rods, which can be bent from thinner smooth reinforcement or from wire Ø6-8 mm. They will give the necessary strength and reliability to the structure. Every 30-35 centimeters, we connect the clamps and reinforcement rods with a knitting wire in an amount equal to the entire perimeter of the grillage. The size of the frame is calculated in such a way that it is 5-7 centimeters from it to the walls of the formwork.

If the finished foundation pillars are at a considerable distance from each other, then for reliability, you can strengthen the formwork with wooden supports, which must be installed strictly horizontally.

Before pouring concrete into the formwork box, we will install a reinforcing frame, fixing its lower part to the reinforcement protruding from the columns.

Video - Columnar foundation. Formwork, reinforcement, casting

If the pouring is done from a concrete mixer truck, then the entire concrete mixture is poured at a time, while removing the air with a construction vibrator, a rod of reinforcement or simply with a shovel.

If you have to mix concrete yourself and you need to fill it for several days, then:

• at one time we fill in a part of the grillage, divided vertically, not forgetting to remove the air;
• before pouring the next part, the edge of the finished block with already hardened concrete is abundantly moistened with water.

Filling the formwork with a completely concrete mixture, cover it with foil and let it stand for several days. Then carefully remove the wooden box and our hanging grillage is ready.

It is worth noting that regardless of the material used for arranging the columnar foundation, this version of the foundation for the future bath is more reliable than the traditional one - tape, and at the same time it is much cheaper (almost twice).

Video - Pile-grillage foundation

Video - The nuances of building a pile-grillage foundation

This material is devoted to pouring a columnar foundation with your own hands with step-by-step instructions. Let's clarify right away that such a structure consists of pillars that are installed at the junctions of the internal partitions of the building and at its corners. Such foundations are often found in the construction of frame, wooden or foam block houses, as well as other utility rooms (baths, summer kitchens, sheds) that are lightweight.

The technology for their creation is quite simple, so even a beginner can install a columnar foundation with his own hands, without the help of professionals. We will tell novice builders how to complete all the steps, and step-by-step instructions will help us with this.

Varieties

To begin with, we note that the supporting columnar foundation can be qualified according to several parameters. So, according to the manufacturing method, it can be:

• monolithic - that is, created from seamless concrete pillars reinforced with reinforcement;
• prefabricated - consisting of bricks, stone or reinforced concrete blocks;
• wooden - consisting of wooden pillars dug into the ground.

A monolithic foundation is more durable, while a prefabricated foundation is installed much faster, otherwise their scope and function are the same. The duration of the operational period of the foundation is directly influenced by the depth parameters calculated taking into account the characteristics of the soil. With regard to the depth of the foundation, the foundation can be:

1. Recessed. Installed 0.5 m below the soil freezing zone, it is recommended for clay soil with high humidity.
2. Shallow. In this case, the pillars are installed in the ground to a depth of 40 to 70 cm. This difference depends on the composition of the soil and the final mass of the building being erected.
3. Shallow columnar foundation. Consists of short supports, the distance between which is 1-2m.

Step by step instructions

1. Before making a columnar foundation with a grillage, it is necessary to prepare a site at the site of its construction, for which all vegetation is removed from the designated area and sod is removed (25-30 cm and 45-50 cm for clay soil). Then all depressions and irregularities are covered with sand and gravel.
2. After laying the sand and gravel cushion, mark the dimensions according to which the supporting columnar foundation will be poured with their own hands. At this stage, you will need pegs and a cord. With their help, it is necessary, strictly according to the scheme, to mark the distance between future pillars (no more than 2 m). The main rule of this step is accuracy, and it must be observed strictly.
3. In order for the columnar foundation of blocks to securely anchor in the ground, it is necessary to dig holes for the piles. Depending on the type of soil and base material, the depth can vary from 30 cm or more in relation to the limits of the base (gap for a pad of sand and gravel). It is recommended to strengthen deep wells (from 1 m) with special wooden supports.

Further, the step-by-step instructions, according to which a shallow supporting columnar foundation is installed, will differ depending on which design features need to be embedded as well as from the material of the supporting pillars.

A grillage is a structure that fits over the surface of the pillars and connects their upper parts to each other. It also serves as the basis for the load-bearing walls of the building.

Reinforced concrete columnar foundation with a grillage is the most popular among developers, because it is reliable and strong. Here, the pits for the supports must exceed the width of the similar parameters of the columns (the difference between them will be at least 15 cm). It is necessary to install a wooden formwork in these recesses, which must be reinforced with reinforcement and concreted. After the solution has solidified, the pillars are connected by a grillage - reinforced concrete, metal or wood. This method has its drawbacks, since the technology of its manufacture is rather laborious.

Shallow columnar foundation of blocks (20x20x40 cm) has its advantages, but it also has disadvantages. The advantages of such structures include the availability and ease of installation, and the disadvantages are lower strength in comparison with the previous version, which is why it is categorically not recommended to tinker on moving soils. Their installation technology looks like this:

• the width of the recesses is 40 cm;
• gravel and sand are poured into the pits in layers;
• 4 blocks are installed (one on top of the other), fastened together with a cement mass.

A grillage columnar foundation of blocks can be installed on a reinforced concrete slab, which serves as an additional support. The advantage of this solution is that it prevents soil subsidence.

Brick support-column foundation, as the name implies, is assembled from bricks and reinforced with a metal mesh. Such structures must be supplied with roofing felt or bituminous waterproofing. The base of asbestos pipes implies a permanent formwork. By the same principle, a shallow foundation is assembled from steel pipes or screw piles.

Columnar bases are assembled according to the following scheme:

1. Wells are drilled in the ground, 5 cm larger in diameter than the piles themselves. If you plan to build a lightweight house, you can limit yourself to supports with a diameter of 20 cm. Before the vertical installation of the pillars, the bottom of the wells must be tamped tightly, and the pillars themselves are compacted with sand and earth.
2. Concrete is poured a third of the piles' depth, then they are raised so that the mortar evenly covers the bottom and gives the support additional strength.
3. A reinforced frame is placed inside all pipes with the condition that the rods peep out of the hole by 20 cm. The rest of the solution is laid in layers to the zero mark, while it will correctly subject the base to periodic vibration pressing.

It is not recommended to leave the grillage foundation made of pipes unloaded for a long time, otherwise the soil may push the piles out and their deepening will be uneven. Between the installation of the supports and further construction, no more than 3 days should elapse from the moment the solution hardens.

Wooden shallow columnar foundation collected from bars, pre-treated with antiseptic agents. The diameter of the supports must be at least 20 cm, otherwise the house will tilt and quickly collapse. The choice of wood is between oak and softwood. In this case, the deepening depth will be at least half a meter.

A shallow columnar foundation is an excellent option for lightweight structures that create minimal ground pressure.

When installing baths and sheds, you can not reinforce the supports with fittings and do not add a concrete pad before installing them.

The block base is not suitable for the construction of heavy, and even more multi-storey buildings, the height and dimensions of which are quite impressive. It does not need to install waterproofing material, therefore it is ideal for the construction of utility blocks. To create the basis of frame houses, it is better to give preference to asbestos or metal pipes, but one should not forget about their reinforcement and a concrete cushion.

The grillage columnar-strip foundation is quite difficult to implement, since it consists of two different stages, radically different from each other. Initially, pillars are installed in the drilled wells and reinforced with reinforcement. If this process is performed correctly, then each pile is capable of withstanding a load of 10 tons. Then they begin to pour the strip base, on which the future building will rely. By the way, it will be possible to erect the walls no earlier than a month after the solution has dried and the monolithic layer will acquire the necessary strength.

Column-belt type

In order to avoid mistakes and troubles in the process of work, and the construction technology has been fully followed, experts advise to pay special attention to analysis and calculations, namely:

• determine the depth of the bookmark;
• find out the composition of the soil, the depth of the groundwater flow and the point of soil freezing;
• calculate the weight of the future building and its load on the soil;
• determine the climatic features of the region.

If you become the owner of a site with heaving soil, it is advisable to put the new building into operation in one season, otherwise it may deform in the cold season.

It is better to start construction in the spring, when the soil has completely thawed out, and you will carry out work in the warm season. During their implementation, make sure that no water gets into the trench.

We really hope that our material helped you understand the construction of foundations for houses, baths, gazebos, you noted for yourself all the advantages of this design and now you can build a supporting columnar foundation with your own hands.

If you know how to build a columnar foundation with your own hands, you can safely proceed to the construction of any building in your suburban area, from a small greenhouse or gazebo to a huge wooden house.

Columnar foundation - features and varieties

When it is planned to build a residential building made of wood, any utility structure, a bathhouse or a garage, the question arises of what type of foundation to choose for them. Anyone wants to spend less money on such an event and at the same time get a truly reliable foundation for future construction. The best option in this case is the arrangement of a columnar foundation. It is the easiest to implement and relatively inexpensive.

The base of interest to us is suitable for or another object that does not exert strong pressure on the ground and does not have basements.

It is not recommended to erect heavy concrete or brick structures on such a basis.

The device of this foundation is quite simple - a certain number of support pillars are placed on the ground in places where the main load will be directed at the end of the construction of a house or other object. Such places include:

• piers;
• corners of the structure;
• areas of intersection of walls;
• heavy load-bearing beams.

Do-it-yourself columnar foundation is allowed to be made of natural stone and wood, rubble concrete, brick, concrete, steel and asbestos pipes, bored piles. It can be prefabricated and monolithic. In the first case, the raw material for its construction is a "mixture" of stones, bricks and reinforced concrete blocks. The monolithic base is made of reinforced concrete, which provides increased foundation strength.

Columnar structures, in addition, are usually subdivided into two types, taking into account the degree of freezing of the ground on which it is installed, and the type of soil itself. From this point of view, the foundation is:

• Shallow - the pillars are mounted in the ground by 0.4–0.7 m. Experts advise doing such a foundation when erecting buildings on rocky or sandy soil.
• In-depth - the laying of supports is carried out to a depth that is 0.5–1 m lower than the freezing mark in a particular area. Filling and installation of such a base is recommended for watery and clayey soils, where there is always a risk of foundation erosion.

Note that the do-it-yourself columnar foundation is built using the same technology. Next, we will look at how to make a columnar base yourself using various materials.

Preparing for arranging a columnar base - important tips

First you need to decide on the type of soil that is available on your site, where construction work is planned. After analyzing it, you can choose the type of base and the depth of installation of the support pillars (see above). For a light gazebo, it will be enough to deepen the foundation by 0.4–0.5 m and make it out of wood or asbestos pipe products. But the relatively large wooden house you will need to put it on a deeper (about 1 m) and strong base, for example, made of concrete.

After that, you need to calculate the number of pillars that will go to the foundation. They must be present in the center and at all corners of any building (even if it is, in your opinion, very small). A truly reliable foundation for the structure will be guaranteed to you when the pillars are located every 2 m (vertically and horizontally) of the structure. The height of the supports is usually taken 0.3–0.5 m above the soil level. It can also be increased when there is a likelihood of a large amount of precipitation and flooding.

Next, we proceed to cleaning the plot of land on which it is planned to pour the foundation. We carry out these works as carefully as possible - we remove all irregularities on the ground, remove debris, make gravel bedding of clay soil. Then we create a point plan of the planned foundation and mark on it the locations of all the pillars.

You should also move 2 m away from the perimeter of the future building on four sides to indicate the area from which you need to completely remove the surface earth layer (20-30 centimeters). This is done to eliminate the danger of vegetation growing under the building. And in the place chosen for construction, it is imperative to pour gravel, or, after which you can start digging holes for the installation of the column foundation supports.

Formwork for the foundation - how to do it quickly and correctly?

The most common and economical formwork is from roofing material. It is she who is most often equipped in private yards during the construction of various structures. It is done simply:

1. We take a piece of roofing material of the required length (we focus on the length of the pillar, and also add a little length to the scraps by level) and twist it into two layers into a tube. It is best to screw the material onto a template, for example, a metal pipe (its section should be about 20 cm).
2. We securely fasten the resulting twist with packaging wide adhesive tape. Sometimes, before this, a blank of roofing material is additionally wrapped with a stretch film, which increases the amount of rigidity that the formwork will have.
3. We take out the template from the resulting tube. In fact, the roofing material formwork is ready!

Instead of roofing material, you can use glassine. The sequence of operations in this case will be similar to that described above. Also, the formwork is often made of wooden boards, consisting of boards 15 cm wide and 4 cm thick. It turns out to be reliable and of high quality, but its cost, of course, is much higher than a roofing material structure. Permanent formwork can be made of asbestos-cement or steel pipes. Their diameter should be 10–20 cm.

After that, we proceed to the process of strengthening the columnar base. For reinforcement, reinforcement with a diameter of 1.2–1.4 cm must be used. It must be installed longitudinally. The function of horizontal jumpers will be performed by a metal wire.

If the foundation is made with a grillage (special slabs or beams - the supports of a future building), about 20 cm of reinforcing bars are left above the posts. With their help, after pouring the concrete mixture, it is possible to easily connect the grillage with columnar supports.

We make a columnar foundation from asbestos or steel pipes - you can handle it!

In this case, a permanent formwork from pipe products of a suitable section is required. The device of such a foundation is recommended for any buildings, including wooden houses. For work, you will need pipes with a cross section of about 200 mm or more if the building will be heavily loaded (several floors, large area).

The step-by-step instructions for building a base are as follows:

1. We clear the site.
2. We prepare cylindrical pits, in which we install the reinforcement cage or pipes and fill them with earth, ensuring the fixation of the supports.
3. We fill the used pipe structures with a concrete solution to one third of their length. This procedure is mandatory and creates the required hydraulic cushion for the base.
4. We raise the pipes to a third of the height and pour the concrete mixture again, leaving about 15 cm of empty space on top.
5. We completely remove the pipes, and the concrete solution, which remains in the pit, is tamped and a reinforced rod is placed in its center.
6. We are waiting for the concrete to harden.

We carry out the connection of the base and the walls of the structure with the help of metal anchors. They should be attached to the lower wall beams and immersed in the 15 cm cavity left. You have made a solid and solid foundation out of pipes. It is only required to finally concrete the structure.

Construction of a foundation made of concrete blocks and wood - instructions

For frame private houses, various gazebos in suburban areas, saunas and outbuildings, you can make a base from blocks. In this case, the do-it-yourself support-column foundation is made of concrete elements with geometric parameters of 20x20x40 cm.

The block base device includes the following stages:

1. Site preparation.
2. Digging holes, sprinkling them with rubble and creating a sand cushion at the bottom.
3. Installation (using cement-based mortar) of concrete blocks.
4. Implementation of waterproofing measures (ordinary roofing material is used, laid on the surface of concrete pillars).
5. Plastering the surface of blocks.

Block foundations should not be built on horizontally mobile soils, water-saturated and peaty soils. It is also undesirable to put overly massive buildings and structures on them.

You can also make a wooden foundation. But the service life of such a base will be objectively short. It can be increased by impregnating wood with special antiseptic solutions. But even in this case, the foundation will last a maximum of a couple of decades.

For such a foundation, it will be correct to use coniferous wood or oak piles. The pillars are immersed in the soil by 0.5–1.5 m. The cross-section of the piles should be chosen larger - from 20 cm. Construction is carried out according to a simple scheme:

1. We clear the area for laying the foundation.
2. Digging holes. Their section is taken 1.5 times the diameter of the used timber supports.
3. We mount wooden pillars at the corners of the planned building, along its perimeter (after 2 meters) and at the intersection points of the walls of the structure.
4. We lay a layer (15–20 cm) of sand on the bottom and tamp it as carefully as possible.
5. We carry out waterproofing of the lower part of wooden supports (impregnation with oil, "wrapping" in 2-3 layers of roofing material or ordinary roofing felts, which it is desirable to glue with mastic based on bitumen).
6. We mount and align the poles vertically (use a building level).
7. We fill up the voids between the pit and the pillar with broken brick, large rubble and sand. These materials should be spread in layers and tamped constantly. The thickness of each layer is at least 10 cm.
8. We align (now in height) the installed supports - we cut off their tops in order to achieve a completely horizontal plane. This procedure is easy to do if you pull a cord over the posts.
9. We put roofing material or a special waterproofing film on the ends of the columnar supports.

Your wooden foundation is ready! Feel free to install a wooden structure on it.