Historical retrospective. Authentic Olivier salad. His story and recipe Olivier real recipe

Publications in the Traditions section

Cultural code: the legendary Olivier

The building of the Hermitage restaurant. 1900s. Photo: wikimedia.org

Lucien Olivier, head of the Hermitage restaurant. Photo: persons-info.com

The interior of the Hermitage restaurant. 1900s. Photo: oldmos.ru

The Frenchman Lucien Olivier, the chef of the Hermitage restaurant on Trubnaya Square, hardly planned to get into the history of Russian cuisine. But got. The snack, invented by him in the 60s of the 19th century for satiated guests of an expensive restaurant, quickly fell in love with the Moscow public. Then Russian National cuisine- hearty, plentiful, but quite simple - gradually changed under the pressure of persistent fashion for everything French.

Olivier guessed the moment: his signature appetizer with a special Provence sauce, the grandfather of modern mayonnaise, almost immediately became the signature dish of the Hermitage. In the book "Moscow and Muscovites", the writer Gilyarovsky said: “It was considered a special chic when dinners were prepared by the Frenchman Olivier, who even then became famous for the Olivier salad he invented, without which dinner is not at lunchtime and the secret of which he did not reveal. No matter how hard the gourmets tried, it didn’t work out: this, but not that ”.

Culinary historians usually agree that it was the sauce: the chef Lucien, himself a native of Provence, was well versed in the local oil and used only a certain variety of it. However, this secret was quickly revealed, and for several years the salad entered the menu of all somewhat reputable establishments. Catering.

“We started at first under the herring. Then with Achuev caviar, then with grainy caviar with a tiny burbot liver pie, at first a glass of white cold myrrh with ice, and then they drank English with brains and bison with Olivier salad.
Vladimir Gilyarovsky. "Moscow and Muscovites"

In the next decade, the salad becomes so popular that its recipes begin to be placed in cookbooks for wealthy audiences. These are not books for young unskillful housewives and not "the secret secrets of a cheap lunch." Olivier requires skillful hands - and money.

Culinary Guide, 1897
Salad "Olivier"
Necessary products and their proportion for 5 persons.
Fritillaries - 3 pcs., Potatoes - 5 pcs., Cucumbers - 5 pcs., Salad - 2 koshchiks, Provence - for ½ bottle. oil, crayfish necks - 15 pcs., Lanspicu - 1 cup, olives, gherkins - only ¼ pound, truffles - 3 pcs. Cooking rules: Singe, gut, fill and fry naturally banquet shot hazel grouses, cool and remove all the flesh from the bones. Cut the fillets into blankets, and chop the rest of the flesh a little. From the bones of the game, cook a good broth, from which to cook lanspic later. Boil the potatoes in the skin, then peel and take out into a recess the size of a three-kopeck coin, and chop the trimmings. Peel fresh cucumbers and cut into thin circles. Truffles cut into circles. Boil crayfish and take necks from them. Prepare a thick Provencal sauce, add kabul-son to it for spiciness, and for better taste and the color is a little heavy cream. Peel large olives with a screw. When everything is prepared, then take a glass vase or a deep salad bowl and start laying everything in rows. First, put game and potato trimmings on the bottom, lightly seasoning them with Provence, then put a row of game on top, then some potatoes, cucumbers, some truffles, olives and crayfish necks, pour all this with a part of the sauce to make it juicy, put a row of game on top again and etc. Leave some of the crayfish necks and truffles for decoration on top. When all the products are stacked in a vase in the form of a slide, then cover with Provence on top so that the products are not visible. In the middle of the vase, put some kind of salad in a bouquet, and arrange the crayfish necks, claws from boiled crayfish and truffles around it more beautifully. Chop the frozen lanspic, put it in a cornet, make a thin elegant net on top and chill everything well.
Note: In exactly the same way, you can prepare a salad from the remaining roast: beef, veal, black grouse, chicken, etc., as well as from any non-bony fish. Sometimes in these salads, if desired, you can add fresh tomatoes, cut into circles. But a real Olivier appetizer is always prepared from hazel grouse.
Note: Lanspic is a thick, sticky, clear broth that has the density of a jelly. To get a bottle of ready-made lanspic, you need to take a bottle of ready-made broth and 12 sheets of gelatin, or a calf's head, or two cow's feet, or 5-6 calf's feet.

In other books of this period, you can find recipes without olives, but, for example, with pressed caviar or lobsters. There are many options, one thing in common: in the 19th century, Olivier was a layered salad for the upper layers. But having stepped from restaurants to home tables, Olivier gradually loses his culinary snobbery and becomes more democratic.

Cookbook, 1912
Olivier salad. Proportion: chickens - 1 pc., boiled potatoes - 5 pcs., fresh cucumbers - 5 pcs., truffles - 1 pc., Provence sauce - 4 table. spoons.
Preparation: boil the kuru in the broth and, taking it out, cool, remove all the flesh, both from the fillet and from the paws, cut obliquely, thinly, into slices. Take large potatoes, round with a column and cut into pennies. Peel fresh cucumbers and chop finely. Put all this in a saucepan, add a little salt, put the Provence sauce and mix, and then put it in a salad bowl, level it with a slide, remove the shredded truffles on top, and the salad is ready, served especially for a snack.
Note: Salad "de-boeuf" (appetizer). The same as Olivier, but the difference is that you need to take boiled meat instead of chicken. Cut the meat into thin leaves, combine with cucumbers, potatoes and Provence sauce. Decorate with truffles.

In 5 years, tsarist Russia will end with truffles. Mayakovsky's agitation declared hazel grouses to be bourgeois food, and those who survived the revolution, and then the Civil War, had no time for culinary delights. In the hungry 1921, the writer Arkady Averchenko recalled past feasts in the work “Shards of the Broken to Pieces”: “A glass of lemon vodka cost fifty dollars, but for the same fifty dollars, friendly bartenders literally forced you an appetizer: fresh caviar, jellied duck, Cumberland sauce, Olivier salad, game cheese”. However, the national cuisine at that time was in obvious decline: rusty rationed herring, saccharin, mixed fat. Olivier can only be remembered.

In the relatively well-fed thirties, the history of lettuce - along with the history of the country - went on a new round. The chef of the Moscow restaurant, Ivan Ivanov, who, according to legend, once worked on the sidelines of Lucien Olivier himself, invents his own remake on an already well-known theme - the Stolichny salad. For the first time, canned food is added to the already known recipe: green pea and crab meat. But for the role of the Soviet salad number one, "Capital" is not yet drawn. NEP rehabilitates hazel grouse, sturgeon and crayfish necks: in the then collections of recipes there is an abundance of subtly similar snacks under playful names like "Silva" or "Parisien". In such a variety, Olivier is not only losing ground, but it no longer claims to be the main festive dish.

Cooking guide for catering. 1945
Vegetable salad with game (Olivier)
Fillets of boiled or fried cold game, boiled potatoes, gherkins or pickled cucumbers are cut into thin slices, green salad leaves, [sauce] soy-kabul, mayonnaise, salt are added to them. All this is carefully mixed, stacked in a salad bowl, decorated with circles or slices of a hard-boiled egg, lettuce, olives, game slices and green cucumber circles. You can put 2-3 cancer necks or pieces of canned crabs on the salad.

It is easy to see that little was left of the French appetizer by this time. Stalin's Olivier is a fantasy thing. In 1948, the Soviet culinary bible, The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food, recommended adding green salad, lemon juice, apples, and even powdered sugar to Olivier. In 1952, in a book that called for abundance and showed the best examples of Soviet food photography, boiled carrots and, unexpectedly, cauliflower appear for the first time as ingredients. They decorate the dish - for lack of fish - no longer with crayfish, but with a boiled egg, in the future, the decoration gradually slips into the salad bowl and becomes an indispensable ingredient. Olivier is still considered a game salad, but around it on the pages of the “Book of Tasty and Healthy Food” there are more and more variations very similar in composition, including “Salad with sausage” (+ potatoes, celery, lettuce, gherkins, apple) and “ Salad with meat” (+ potatoes and cucumbers).

By the eighties, we have several recipes for remakes on the Olivier theme fixed in the obligatory collections: “Capital Salad” (chicken, potatoes, cucumbers, lettuce, eggs, crabs), meat (everything is the same, only beef or tongue), “Salad with seafood” (fish, shrimp, potatoes, carrots, green peas) and the venerable Game Salad, now served with hazel grouse, tomatoes, beans and cauliflower. All this is generously seasoned with mayonnaise, and each recipe is accompanied by important notes: in the absence of such and such an ingredient, you can replace it with another or even release the dish without it. It is not surprising that in the end, Brezhnev's Olivier turned into a designer salad: what he got, he chopped up. But on the other hand, it is simple and inexpensive to prepare, ideal for cold weather and strong drinks, and recipe options are passed from hostess to hostess and are fixed by family tradition. Olivier safely survives the change of ruling courses and financial crises, again becoming that dish, without which dinner is not lunch.

Cooking in Russian, America, 2003
Russian salad (Olivje salad), a must-have at all Russian parties.
2 chicken breasts boneless and skinless, 1 medium onion, peeled, 6 large potatoes, 6 eggs, 8 medium pickled cucumbers, a cup of green peas, scallions and dill for serving.
Refueling: 1 tbsp. l olive oil, 1 cup mayonnaise, 1 cup sour cream, 1/4 tsp. salt, the same amount of ground pepper.
1. Wash the chicken in cold water. Cut the onion in half. Boil the chicken until it is evenly white.
2. Remove the bow.
3. While the chicken is cooking, wash the potatoes well, put them in a large saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil at high temperature. Boil until the potatoes are easily peeled. Drain the water.
4. While the chicken and potatoes are cooking, place the eggs in a large saucepan. Fill with water and bring to a boil at high temperature. Reduce heat, cover and let sit for 20-25 minutes. Rinse boiled eggs cold water until they cool down.
5. Cool all ingredients at room temperature before cooking. Cut the chicken into small pieces. Peel potatoes and eggs. Cut potatoes, eggs and cucumbers into cubes. Place in a large salad bowl.
6. Prepare the dressing in a small salad bowl. Mix everything, add dressing and sweet peas to the salad bowl.
In some areas, Russians put carrots or grated apple in olivje. And keep in mind that for a real traditional taste, you can’t take mayonnaise and low-fat sour cream!

If the modern Olivier salad were prepared according to an old Russian recipe, then it would hardly have become an obligatory attribute. holiday table. The point is that it is Authentic Olivier Salad consisted of ingredients that not everyone can afford today. And certainly it was not cooked in "basins". It was a real delicacy, which all the rich of Moscow came to try.

Yes, yes, at least Authentic Olivier Salad and was invented by a Frenchman, this dish comes from the capital of Russia. And already from it the treat spread throughout Europe. And initially it was not even a salad. The creator of the dish called it none other than “game mayonnaise”.

And it was invented in the 60s of the 19th century by the famous restaurateur Lucien Olivier. He worked in the capital's Hermitage tavern.

Authentic Olivier salad

For a real Olivier salad, you need the following ingredients :

Boiled fillet of a pair of hazel grouse
Boiled veal tongue
Grams 100 black caviar. And not granular, but the so-called "pressed", which, in fact, is a puree
Fresh lettuce leaves 200 grams
Boiled crayfish in the amount of 25 pieces. As an option, they could be replaced by a can of lobsters
250 grams of pickled pickles. Now they are better known as gherkins - these are such small cucumbers.
Pair of fresh cucumbers
hard boiled chicken eggs(5 items)

And all this was seasoned not with mayonnaise, as it is now, but with a special Kabul sauce. This is a fairly spicy seasoning made from meat, tomatoes, horseradish and cream. AT Authentic Olivier Salad 250 grams of Kabul sauce was added.

In order to make this sauce, you need the following products:

Meat broth (50-60 g)
Wheat flour (20-25g)
Horseradish (20-25g)
Butter (10g)
Cream (20-30g)
Salt (to taste)

First, the broth is boiled in butter in a saucepan with flour added to it. After that, horseradish, cream and salt are added to the resulting mass. And all together again brought to a boil over low heat.

There is another version of Kabul sauce. It uses carrots, onions, tomato paste and pepper. But Authentic Olivier Salad refueled with the first version of the sauce.

Interestingly, Lucien Olivier did not originally plan to mix these ingredients. The conceived dish had to look like a real work of art. Just imagine:

On one side of the plate is sliced hazel grouse fillet, seasoned with Kabul sauce and black caviar. On the other hand, mixed crayfish meat and slices of veal tongue. And a pyramid of boiled potatoes, with small straws of cucumbers, decorated with slices of chicken eggs.

But the efforts of the master were not appreciated by the visitors. They began to shamelessly mix the ingredients, turning everything into a single mess. As a result, the chef had no choice but to start preparing a new dish in the form of a salad.

Unfortunately, many of the secrets of making a real Olivier salad went to the grave along with its creator. It was a real tragedy for the entire culinary world.

What has come down to our time, of course, has little in common with that same salad. And the list of ingredients is so different that you are surprised when you read what it was originally made from.

Fritillary meat and tongue were gradually replaced by boiled chicken, ham and boiled sausage. Potatoes, carrots, green peas, apples, green onions appeared. The only thing that unites a real Olivier salad and its modern copy is eggs and cucumbers.

But this is if we talk about the classic Olivier salad in the modern sense. But there are dozens of other varieties. For example, Olivier with cheese, Fish Olivier with sour cream, Olivier with cabbage, Olivier with squid and many others. And today rarely (or almost no one) does that Authentic Olivier Salad who immortalized the name of its creator.

Olivier is a popular salad among the people and it suffered the fate of many popular dishes - copying recipes and creating various author's variations. Let's try to figure out what it is, a real Olivier salad?

Let's start with the fact that the salad recipe was invented and prepared by chef Lucien Olivier, back in the 19th century. Russian Empire. Lucien Olivier never revealed the real recipe for his salad to anyone., but the people fell in love with the salad so much that attempts began to recreate it, based on the ingredients included in the composition. Our website describes the procedure for preparing a salad according to, but this is only an alleged copy of the recipe, although quite successful according to contemporaries.

Another part of the people under the expression " Real Olivier” means a salad prepared in Soviet times for New Year's feasts, namely - and this also has an explanation. The fact is that the Olivier salad prepared by Lucien Olivier in the Hermitage was very tasty, but due to the elite status of the institution, it was available only to a few, and in the Soviet years, when boiled sausage appeared and became available to a wide range, they began to make something like Olivier salad itself, but replacing expensive ingredients with cheaper ones. This cheapened salad was popularly called Salad Olivier, although Olivier salad with sausage has no direct relation to the original recipe.

Stores with culinary departments now also sell Olivier with boiled sausage, and most likely, under the expression "Real Olivier", many people understand this particular salad with sausage and peas.

For clarity, here is a list of ingredients in the original Lucien Olivier salad and in the Olivier salad, which began to be cooked in Soviet times and continues to be cooked to this day.

Lucien Olivier Salad Ingredients:

Fritillaries - 1/2 pieces
Potatoes - 3 pieces
Cucumbers - 1 piece
Salad - 3-4 leaves
Provence - 1.5 table. spoons
Cancer necks - 3 pieces
Lanspic - 1/4 cup
Capers - 1 teaspoon
Olives - 3-5 pieces

Ingredients for modern salad "Olivier with sausage":

Boiled sausage "Doctor" - 500 g
Potatoes - 4 pieces
Carrots - 2 pieces
Eggs - 4 pieces
Fresh cucumbers - 4 pieces
Canned green peas - 500 g
Mayonnaise "Provencal" - 200 g
Greens - to taste
Salt - to taste

The original Olivier recipe has long become a legendary salad, without which not a single New Year's feast is complete. Over the years, the recipe for the original French salad has succumbed to numerous changes, becoming a completely different dish under the same name.
But sometimes it can be very interesting to try making Olivier salad, the history of which begins 150 years ago. The following will be presented to your attention 5 French recipes cooking Olivier.

This recipe is the closest to the original. The dish, of course, is very rich, high-calorie, amazing with its originality.

For the Olivier salad recipe you will need:

2 quail or hazel grouse;
100 g of black caviar;
5 chicken eggs;
200 g of salad;
1 veal tongue;
2 salted and fresh cucumbers;
100 g of crab meat in its juice;
100 g capers;
20 olives;
0.5 onion heads;
1 small carrot;
0.5 st. vegetable oil;
1-2 laurels;
3-4 juniper berries;
3-4 peas of black, allspice.

For the Provence sauce:

1 st. olive oil;
1 egg yolk;
0.5 tsp mustard with grains;
0.5 tsp wine white vinegar;
2 leaves of fresh rosemary and thyme.

The original Olivier salad recipe:

To begin with, we are preparing the meat ingredients. Let's start with veal tongue. We put the offal for a quarter of an hour in cold water. Then we thoroughly clean the surface of debris, mucus, blood, rinse well. We put the delicacy in boiling water, cook under a lid for about an hour over low heat.
We clean the onion, lay the vegetable in the broth. We send there Bay leaf with juniper berries. Cover with a lid again, cook for another 30-60 minutes until the meat is soft. The finished tongue is easily pierced with a fork, and clear juice is released from the puncture.
We immerse the boiled hot tongue in ice water, after a couple of minutes, right in the water, remove the outer shell from the tongue with a stocking. We shift the cleaned delicacy back into the broth, boil, turn off the heat. After complete cooling, the tongue can be used for further cooking.
In parallel with cooking the tongue, we prepare homemade Provencal sauce. To do this, beat the olive oil with the egg yolk with a mixer in a perfectly dry container. When the mass thickens, add wine vinegar, Dijon mustard. For flavor, add fresh rosemary and thyme at the end.
Fry the carcasses of hazel grouse or quail in a hot frying pan with vegetable oil until a beautiful crust. Then add water in a volume of 1-1.5 cups, add pepper with bay leaf, cover with a lid, simmer for half an hour. We cool the finished bird, we separate the meat from the bone.
Boil hard-boiled eggs, cool, remove the shell, carefully cut lengthwise into four parts.
We cut the bird, tongue, peeled cucumbers, crabs into small cubes (we first drain all the juice from them). Mix everything, add capers, season with sauce.
Wash fresh lettuce thoroughly, tear into pieces. We add half of the greens to the salad, and put the other half on the bottom of a wide salad bowl.
Transfer the olive oil to a salad bowl. Lay egg quarters on top in a circle, on which we drip a drop of sauce. It will be more elegant if the sauce is dispensed from a pastry bag with a curly nozzle. Put a small amount of black caviar on top of the eggs. Place an olive between the egg slices. On this, the preparation of the salad can be considered finished, it remains only to serve it on the table.

Olivier with French dressing

This salad features an original French dressing that is easy to make at home.

Olivier salad original recipe includes:

2 chicken eggs;
1 potato tuber;
1 carrot;
70 g canned green peas;
100 g turkey;
3 pickles;
1 lemon;
3 tbsp olive oil;
50 g homemade mayonnaise;
2 tsp mustard;
2 g dry herbs.

Cooking instruction:

First, wash and boil the potatoes and carrots until tender. According to the tradition for Olivier, vegetables are always boiled “in their uniforms”, i.e. in the skin.
In parallel with vegetables, boil hard-boiled eggs.
We also cook turkey fillet in salted water until fully cooked, which, if desired, can be replaced with another type of meat.
Chilled vegetables, eggs, peel. Cut vegetables, poultry and eggs into small cubes.
Pickled cucumbers from a barrel are suitable for Olivier, because. they have a distinct taste. We also cut them into small cubes.
Pour the peas into a colander, let the whole brine escape.
To prepare salad dressing, thoroughly mix homemade mayonnaise, mustard, olive oil and juice of one lemon.
We combine all the ingredients in a salad bowl, season with French dressing, mix. For flavor, sprinkle some herbs on top.

French Salad Olivier

This treat will be the highlight of the festive feast. The taste of the dish will temporarily take guests to France, to the homeland of Olivier salad.

A set of products for 4 servings:

3-4 pcs. shrimp;
1 shallot;
100-150 g of quail;
1 small carrot;
1 cucumber;
1 garlic clove;
100 g of veal;
2 tbsp mustard;
1 bunch of mixed lettuce leaves;
1/3 tsp salt and black pepper;
50 ml vegetable oil;
30 g butter;
1 bunch of dill and green onion;
1-2 quail eggs.

Classic Olivier Salad - French Recipe:

We clean the shrimp from the shell. Fry seafood in a frying pan in vegetable oil. In the process, season the contents with salt and pepper. Cut the cooled shrimp into cubes (leave a few whole for salad decoration).
In another frying pan butter fry the quail until golden brown. In the process, add rosemary. Mince the meat.
We clean the onion, cut it into rings, and also send it to the pan with quail.
Boil carrots until tender. We take out the root crop from the broth, cool, cut into small cubes.
If desired, peel the cucumber, cut into cubes.
We clean the garlic from the husk, chop it finely. Separately chop the green onion with dill.
Boil a piece of beef until soft. Take the meat out of the broth. Cut the cooled meat into cubes.
Boil quail eggs, peel.
AT deep bowl mix boiled beef, carrot, shrimp, cucumber, fillet, green onion. Gently mix the mass, adding table mustard.
We decorate a wide plate for serving with different lettuce leaves. In the center we spread the olivier, place the remaining whole shrimp on top. Lay the egg pieces side by side.
Optionally, you can add halves of cherry tomatoes for decoration.
Mix dill with garlic, add olive oil, stir. Pour the dressing over the top of the dish.

Olivier - original salad recipe

Real original recipe French Olivier was kept secret, so the recipe for this famous salad has acquired many variations. One of them is Olivier with chicken and shrimp.

A set of products for 4 servings:

160 g potatoes;
250 g chicken fillet;
80 g peeled shrimp (medium size);
80 g pickled cucumbers;
70 g carrots;
2 chicken eggs;
160 g canned green peas;
50 g onion;
2 pinches of salt;
1 pinch of ground black pepper;
3-4 tbsp mayonnaise.

Olivier - original recipe:

We put eggs, chicken, shrimp, carrots and potatoes to cook at the same time.
After cooking, cool the ingredients, if necessary, clean and chop.
Rinse the chicken, clean it from the films, put it to cook in unsalted boiling water for half an hour. Salt the meat only 10 minutes before cooking. Cook for half an hour, remove from the broth, cool.
To boil the shrimp, bring a liter of water to a boil, lay the seafood. Having reduced the heat, we keep the seafood in hot water for 5-7 minutes. Do not allow the water to boil violently. We take out, cool, clean them from chitin.
We free the onion from the husk, chop it into a cube, transfer it to a colander, evenly scald it with boiling water. Leave the mass in a colander until all the liquid has drained.
We spread all the products on a dish, season the salad with sauce, salt, pepper, mix. Garnish with a sprig of fresh herbs if desired.

Olivier recipe original

Very close to the original recipe for French Olivier salad with crayfish tails and beef broth.

A set of products for 4 servings:

0.5 hazel grouse or small duck carcass;
3 potato tubers;
5 chicken eggs;
3 cancer necks;
1 fresh cucumber;
1 pickled cucumber;
1-2 tsp capers;
100 g of frozen beef broth with the addition of gelatin;
10 pieces. olives
3-4 tbsp low-fat mayonnaise;
2 pinches of salt;
2 tbsp vegetable oil.

Olivier salad - original recipe:

On the eve of preparing the salad, cook the beef broth. We dilute it with edible gelatin in the ratio indicated on the package. Pour into any form with a flat bottom and let it completely harden, turn into a strong jelly.
Cut the bird fillet into small slices, fry at medium heat in vegetable oil until golden brown. Put the meat on a plate lined with paper towels.
In a saucepan, bring water to a boil, lower the crayfish there, cook them until tender. Then we take it out, cool it, separate the cancer necks.
Separately, boil the potatoes with eggs until tender. We clean the products. We cut the potatoes into cubes, and cut the eggs in half lengthwise, throw the yolks aside.
My fresh cucumber, cut into thin half rings. Salty cucumber cut into small identical cubes.
We combine the chopped ingredients in a bowl with meat, capers, torn lettuce leaves. Season the mass with mayonnaise, season with spices to taste, knead thoroughly.
We cut the broth into cubes, fill the egg white boats with them. We cut the olives.
We shift the olivier into a salad bowl, decorate the dish on top with egg halves with meat jelly, olive slices, crayfish necks. The salad is best served immediately.

Olivier French salad can be served on large serving dishes or in small salad bowls. But due to the fact that this treat is quite high-calorie, it is wiser to spread it in portions, in bowls or wine glasses. This serving will look very impressive and will save your guests from overeating. Bon appetit everyone!