Winter greenhouses and greenhouses. DIY winter greenhouse: types of heating. Selection of building materials

A greenhouse or even a small greenhouse on a personal plot allows you to get vitamins to the table earlier, to grow a crop of plants with a long growing season. The winter greenhouse opens up much more opportunities for vegetable growers (or flower growers). A capital winter greenhouse, built with our own hands in the country, can provide a family with the necessary vitamins all year round, or it can become an additional source of income. It is quite possible to build a capital greenhouse yourself for growing not only annual vegetables, but to settle perennials there - flowers and fruits will delight the owners, and will also be in demand in the market.

DIY winter greenhouse - very actual topic for everyone who wants to eat fresh vegetables in winter instead of canned ones. If you approach this issue thoroughly, study the best projects from the existing ones, consider different ways organizing heating and additional lighting, building materials from which greenhouses are erected, then it is quite possible to build a greenhouse yourself, without resorting to the help of professionals.

The greenhouse frame is most often assembled from a metal profile or a wooden beam, although metal pipes or plastic profiles are also used. Metal is stronger and more durable, but wood creates the right microclimate and is easier to work with. Before deciding on the material, it is advisable to know which plants you need to build this greenhouse to grow. Cucumbers, for example, require very high moisture content, which will shorten the life of the timber frame.

For walls and roofs, use film, glass or polycarbonate. If we take into account the possible very low temperatures, the weight of snow, of which a lot can fall in winter, then with the film there is more trouble than saving. Glass has proven itself perfectly in any weather, but its weight, increased by the weight of snow falling in winter, must be taken into account when erecting the frame so that it does not collapse under the weight of a snow-covered roof.

Light and transparent multi-layer polycarbonate shows itself well, it should be taken with a thickness of 10 - 16 mm. When choosing polycarbonate, you should remember that if the thickness is 10 mm, it is necessary to take sheets no wider than 105 cm, and if 16 mm, no wider than 140 cm to ensure sufficient strength.

It is imperative that a solid foundation is made for a winter greenhouse, then a frame is erected. After the installation is completed, a heating system is installed. If you build a single-slope greenhouse adjacent to a residential building, then its heating can be done simply by continuing the heating system of the house.

To calculate the required amount of heat, you need to find the difference between the thermal conductivity coefficient and the glazing area. The difference between heating a house and a greenhouse is significant - in a greenhouse, not only air temperature is important, but soil temperature. Biofuel polycarbonate greenhouses are considered very reliable. When choosing heating devices, aluminum convectors are usually preferred; it is believed that they are able to distribute heat evenly throughout the greenhouse.

A layer of sand is laid at the bottom of the pit, then a layer of sod earth (or just sod laid with the roots up), then humus. After laying all the elements of the heat accumulator and installing pipes for its ventilation, it is necessary to lay a polyvinyl chloride film so that the soil does not interfere with its work. Slits are made in the film for pipes, and it itself is attached to the walls using a construction stapler. After that, fertile soil for the beds and infertile soil is poured into the greenhouses, which can then be covered with tiles - for paths. So that the backfilled soil does not push the boundaries of the beds, they are pulled together every meter with a special wire with a cross section of at least 8 mm. This wire must be wrapped with plastic tape (or better yet, hidden in plastic pipes) so that it does not rot in wet ground.

Video "How to build a heated greenhouse with your own hands"

Gable greenhouse

Gable greenhouses are very often erected from a metal corner or a profile pipe. The angle of inclination of the rafter system is made from 20 to 30 degrees - this slope allows the snow to roll off the roof under its own weight. At the same time, this roof will not be too high for the wind to strengthen it.

But you can build such a greenhouse by erecting a frame from a wooden bar. It is advisable to arrange the foundation with a cross-section of 40 cm - by 40 cm. The walls must be taken out with a thickness of one brick, in them beams should be placed, having previously made special grooves for greenhouse frames down. The beam must be taken with a cross-section of at least 15 cm - by 15 cm.The rafter part can be made of beams with a smaller cross-section, 10 cm is suitable - by 10 cm.The rafters must be connected with beams that are laid on the walls, it is better to take a bar for a ridge with a cross-section 12 cm - by 12 cm. Gaps will inevitably arise between the frames, it is better to sew them up immediately with slats.

The covering for such a greenhouse can be combined - the walls can be covered with polycarbonate, and the roof can be glazed. It is not difficult to build such a greenhouse yourself. It can be useful for growing perennial plants or for obtaining several annual crops in one year. But it will definitely have to arrange heating. You can lay a warm floor and limit yourself to air heaters when the temperature column drops - this will depend on the climate and the degree of temperature drop outside.

With earthen backfill

Highly interesting option - winter greenhouse with earthen bedding. It can be built with a gable or pitched roof facing south. In fact, this is a greenhouse completely buried in the ground, the sun enters it only through the roof. Of course, in winter there will be little light, especially given the cloudy weather, you will have to organize additional lighting. The roof can be covered with polycarbonate.

If we want to build a greenhouse with a usable area of \u200b\u200b15 square meters, we need to dig a pit 80 cm deep with dimensions of 12 m - by 3.5 m.At 60 cm from each wall, it is advisable to clearly mark the outlines of the greenhouse with pegs and a rope - we get a width of 2.27 m with a length of 10.60 m.If we leave 80 cm for the path, we get beds with a width of 1.47 m. This is the optimal width of the bed, if you make it larger, it will be difficult to care for the plants.

Now we need to dig half-meter holes in which the pillars will be installed, with a distance of 2.12 m between them. In total, 18 pillars will be needed: 6 on the south side (1.65 m each), 6 on the north (2.10 m) and 6 medium (2.30 m). The roof slope should be 20 - 25 degrees. The diameter of the pillars should be in the range of 10 to 20 cm. To prevent the pillars from rotting, they must be treated with an antiseptic, some advise to simply cover the lower parts with resin. Special spikes are made on the pillars, and on the harness of the bars - the corresponding nests, into which these spikes will enter. On the inner side of the harness, grooves are made into which the frames will then lay.

Then they make a slope - logs are stuffed onto the racks and covered with earth. The planned length of 10.6 m is designed for 10 window frames. The entrance to such a greenhouse is planned from the end, the roof over the corridor (path) can be covered with boards, the ceiling can be hemmed with a plank, and a warming material can be placed between them. The path can be deepened by another 30 cm, then it will be more convenient to walk (no need to bend over) and take care of the plantings.

You can cover such a greenhouse with glass or polycarbonate. Cellular polycarbonate is used at least 8 mm thick, for it, a crate is assembled from bars with a cross section of 5 cm - by 5 cm. The bars are laid at least 1 m. And the glass will be at least 4 mm thick, insert it into the frames, having previously lubricated the ends of the glasses and the grooves of the frames with liquid lubricant. The wooden part of the structure must be painted with oil paint, usually white or just light is used. Stove heating is done in such greenhouses.

Budget greenhouse

A winter greenhouse cannot be a cheap project just because it requires heating and, very often, additional lighting. Heating will be the most expensive part of the greenhouse; everything else can be saved. The most economical option would be to build a greenhouse from a wooden beam with a film coating.

The foundation must be made of expanded clay and concrete, with the help of formwork, make it so that it rises 30-50 cm above the ground, the frame is assembled from a wooden bar treated with an antiseptic. It is possible to sheathe it with two layers of film (from the inner and outer sides of the timber), an air layer between them will help preserve heat. And the roof can be covered with a hydrophilic film, from which condensation will not drain, and the walls are usually double. In the coldest time of winter, almost all windows should be closed with planks, and then gradually opened, increasing natural light.

It is good to arrange high warm beds. It all depends on how severe the winter will be. If the thermometer does not fall too much, there will be enough warm beds and heating air for growing vegetables in winter. And if in Siberia the frosts are strong, and the ground freezes up to more than 2 meters, then warm beds are arranged not for plants, but in order to help the heating system laid under fertile soil.

Video "Super greenhouse with your own hands: cheap and simple"

The video will explain to you how to make a greenhouse with your own hands from scrap materials with minimal investment.

The place for the greenhouse is chosen even, preferably windless, so that it is not shaded by large trees or buildings, where groundwater does not come close to the surface. It is best to construct rectangular rooms oriented so that more sunlight falls on the wide side.

Usually in the greenhouse they make a small vestibule where they store garden tools, dishes, and all sorts of useful little things. This small space is also necessary because it protects the plants from the ingress of cold air when opening the outer doors.

Whichever material you choose for construction, always monitor the tightness of the room.

Plants need to be watered with exceptionally warm water; it is best to establish a sprinkler system, not drip irrigation.

To protect the greenhouse from freezing of the soil, you need to insulate it from the inside with foam plastic, it can be wrapped in polyethylene for greater safety. For the foundation, it is good to use adobe or foam blocks, which, together with cement and polymer mastic, retain heat well. Better than them can only be thick (twice as thick as foam blocks) brickwork, which will become significantly more expensive.

Plants require different temperature conditions, so you first need to determine which plants the greenhouse is being built for, and then install a heating system.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with greenhouse projects from the most advanced vegetable growers.

We all appreciate the presence of fresh vegetables and fruits on the New Year's table. And the culprit of such a small celebration of summer in the middle of winter is the winter greenhouse. How to build a winter greenhouse with heating, what prerequisites and preparations are necessary for this, what material is better to use than to heat - we will try to find out all this in this article.

Why do we need all this and where to start?

Every gardener will agree with the fact that the seasonality of growing various crops and plants leaves its negative imprint on the annual productivity of the beds. A person always wants more, and the desire to overcome the seasonal factor that is characteristic of all branches of agriculture is no exception.

It is for this purpose that we build winter greenhouses in order to be able to consume fresh vegetables and fruits of our own production in winter.

So where do you start? First of all, winter gardens are not cheap. A winter greenhouse with your own hands is by no means a pipe dream, however, to create such a structure, knowledge and a budget are needed.

We also need to decide initially on the purpose of the covered vegetable garden for growing crops. Calculate its future functionality, determine its location in relation to the level of the upper layer of the earth, depth, location on the site, total area, etc.

That is, at first, as in any other serious business, we create a step-by-step action plan and prepare a budget for it. This is the only way to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands without delays and unpleasant surprises.

Location of the structure

If you are already looking for how to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands, then you should know that it is located in a clear relationship with the cardinal points. So that the sun's rays in clear weather always fall inside it. For this purpose, structures are usually placed in sections with their lateral part to the south, that is, in length from east to west.

It will also be correct to take into account the wind blowing of the structure. You should not put a covered garden in an open space, it would be more correct to install it in a more secluded corner so that sharp gusts of wind could not damage the covering material.

Install the structure so that it has easy access and can be serviced without constantly overcoming any obstacles.

We create the base

Before moving on to the question of how to build a greenhouse for the winter cultivation of thermophilic crops, attention should be paid to the correct creation of the foundation for the future structure. The construction of a winter greenhouse begins here.

You can make a regular brick-cement foundation, with sanding as a pillow. The depth of installation of the foundation should be 50 cm. The garden itself under the glass does not have to be deepened, you can just slightly raise the base.

Having created a brick rim, you can start backfilling the sand pillow and pouring cement over the entire area.

It is best to hold this event in sunny, dry weather. Typically, the holding period is no more than a week. Having put the structure on such a basis, it will be possible not to fear for its stability.

The plinth can be made of stone or fresh brick, with a rise of 80-100cm.

For the construction of the foundation, the weight of the covering material is taken into account. If this is a film, the base should not even be buried - it is enough to fill in a concrete platform with which the frame is attached with mortgages. For polycarbonate, you can make a concrete platform or go deeper by 30-40 cm. Glass, as the heaviest material, requires a strong foundation.

VIDEO: How easy it is to build a greenhouse for the whole year

Making a frame

A kind of skeleton of our construction. A self-constructed winter greenhouse cannot stand for a long time in conditions of harsh winds and snow masses without a high-quality, durable frame at its core.

There are several commonly used materials for creating frame frames for greenhouses, namely:

wooden;
plastic;
metal.

The construction of a winter greenhouse using wooden beams or plastic pipes is possible, but such a structure will be less durable and its strength and performance characteristics can fail at the most unnecessary moment, especially if winters in your region are characterized by severe winds and heavy rainfall.

Building a greenhouse right means building it with a stronger, more reliable material, such as metal. A steel frame in the form of a metal frame, consisting of shaped pipes and several transverse bent sections, will become the strong skeleton that any outdoor structure needs.

In order to reduce the load, a mobile roof can be made that moves to one side. This option, as a rule, is practiced for seasonal structures, in order to open it for the winter and give access to snow.

Structure cladding

One of the most important components. The modern market offers several options for covering both year-round and seasonal greenhouses. Among them, the following materials stand out, such as:

film flooring;
glass sheets;
cellular polycarbonate.

Glass is quite suitable, but still its strength and performance characteristics are significantly inferior to the third material on the list.

The ideal option would be to build a polycarbonate winter greenhouse. This material has excellent strength characteristics, because in this respect it surpasses glass by almost 200 times! At the same time, it transmits 95% of the sunlight and retains up to 70% of the heat inside the structure itself.

Cellular (cellular) polycarbonate has excellent light transmission, which makes the use of such material a priority.

Heating system selection

A polycarbonate winter greenhouse should be equipped with a suitable heat source. This is, in fact, the most important component of her arrangement for growing plants in severe frosts.

So how do you build a heated winter greenhouse? A warm greenhouse can be made as such by using one or more main and auxiliary types of heating. Let's highlight the following:

use of solar heat;
biofuel;
water heating;
use of electricity;
stove heating.

The sun's rays can be an excellent ally for greenhouse cultivation in cold weather. The warm rays of the daylight easily penetrate the transparent polycarbonate coating into the interior of the structure and fulfill their natural function, heating the air inside the greenhouse to decent temperature indicators.

Straw, foliage, tree bark, bird droppings and animal manure can be used as natural biofuels. Horse manure rightfully belongs to the animal bioresources. This material has very high heat generation characteristics and is capable of heating up to 70 degrees within a week.

Heating using a water heating boiler and a network of pipes around the perimeter of the structure or even underground, in the ground itself, is considered the most common and financially profitable method of heating a winter greenhouse.

The use of electrical heating devices for this purpose is highly reliable, but at the same time extremely costly.

Heating greenhouses using special long-burning stoves, such as buleryan or slobozhanka, is also quite a suitable option, especially in the absence of a gas network or frequent power outages.

Internal thermal insulation

The choice of heating system is certainly an important issue, but it is even more important to decide how to keep the heat inside. And if you know exactly how to make a winter greenhouse with your own hands, then you should also understand how to properly insulate it from the inside.

The best way to cope with this task is structures with a double frame, when a covering material is attached to the outer side (recall, glass, film or polycarbonate), and an insulating layer to the inner side.

Inside, the room is additionally sheathed with foil for the winter, and the northern part is insulated with sheets of foam or expanded polystyrene

Remembering the Soviet way of insulating windows for the winter, it should be noted that the film in this case is a cheap, practical and effective material. If the budget allows, you can make a second layer of polycarbonate, but then you need to resolve the issue with its dismantling for the period of warm spring, otherwise the plants will "suffocate".

Still, it is better to stop on the film, even if the frame is in one row. For fasteners, we make a frame from a strong wire inside, repeating the geometry of the greenhouse. Already on the assembled frame we stretch the film and fasten it with clips. To make the connections tight, you can use a sealant and walk over all the joints.

Entrance vestibule

It is difficult to overestimate the importance of this room for a winter greenhouse. On the one hand, it is a kind of buffer between a cold street and a warm room. It is no coincidence that in the overwhelming majority of private houses an extension is made in front of the front door. On the other hand, this is the ability to store garden tools and not occupy a usable area in the main room.

Tambour is convenient and practical

A vestibule is built from the same material as the entire room, and the joints are covered with a sealant. The front door is reinforced with a rubber seal - so it will close more quietly and will not let in a draft.

So, we figured out how to make a winter greenhouse with our own hands. Having competently distributed our financial capabilities, having planned everything from the creation of the project to the internal arrangement of the already erected structure, we can further grow fruits and vegetables, flowers and even mushrooms with minimal costs, only by controlling the maintenance of the required temperatures inside the greenhouse.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself winter heated greenhouse

Each summer resident strives to grow as many fruit crops, ornamental plants as possible and at the same time achieve an enviable harvest. The most suitable periods for this are spring and summer. However, if you want, some of them can be continued to grow even in cold winters. To do this, it is enough to think over the heating of the greenhouse in winter and implement it correctly.

Numerous crops can be grown throughout the year regardless of the geographic location of the region. To do this, it is recommended to build a spacious greenhouse that will be heated in the cold season, creating a very favorable microclimate for plants.

Introductory video review

If you build a greenhouse over the heating main, the heating issues will probably be resolved involuntarily, but in the countryside it will not be easy to find such plots of land. The way out of the situation is the arrangement of one of the types of heating:

Electric heating
Air heating
Biological heating
Solar heating
Water heating

Electric heating

If we consider the options for heating the greenhouse in winter, the predominance of electrical systems can be noted. Among the many methods, gardeners, as a rule, choose one of the following:

Electrical cable
Heating mats
Convection units
Heat pumps
Infrared heaters

One of the simplest and most popular methods is heating greenhouses with a convector. It is an installation with spirals inside, through which the air is heated. The air currents are distributed evenly throughout the greenhouse, but the warmest masses accumulate at the top. It is recommended to use the convection method in conjunction with the biological ones considered later, since it is not independently capable of heating the soil.

The use of heating mats or electric cables are very effective and inexpensive methods of heating the greenhouse during winter. Their main advantage is the ability to lay in those areas that the summer resident needs (outside the greenhouse, between the rows, etc.). The option when the heating elements are located directly in the ground is popular. However, if you make a mistake with the temperature, you can overheat the root system of the plants.

Despite their efficiency, heat pumps for heating greenhouses are not widely used. This is due to the high cost of installing the necessary equipment. If the greenhouse is small and is being built for personal purposes, you should not expect a return on investment.

A very interesting and popular option for heating greenhouses is the installation of infrared heaters. If you correctly design the system, it will be possible to warm up individual parts of the greenhouse in which plants germinate. Having tried, the entire area can be divided into zones, setting in each of them the temperature suitable for one or another cultivated crop.

Of course, heating the greenhouse in winter has one significant advantage - the ability to sharing with temperature sensors. Having made the correct setting, a constant desired air temperature will be maintained inside the greenhouse. The market offers numerous additional equipment designed to normalize the indoor climate.

Air heating of greenhouses

Air heating methods are among the most primitive, but they still have not lost their relevance. The easiest way to implement it is to lay a pipe through the greenhouse, one end of which will go out. A fire will have to be kindled under it, the heated air will flow through the pipe into the greenhouse.

It is not possible to constantly maintain the temperature in this way, but you can quickly heat the plants in the event of severe and unexpected frosts.

Heating units with a fan are among the cheapest and most compact. They allow you to distribute warm air masses over the greenhouse as evenly as possible. With their help, summer residents not only heat the greenhouses, but also have the ability to dry the air in them, recreating a favorable microclimate for planting.

Biological heating

Most of the types of greenhouse heating considered in winter are not able to simultaneously heat the air and the ground. To keep the root system of the crops grown warm, it is recommended to resort to biological methods.

Biological heating methods are based on the decomposition of organic matter. This process is always accompanied by the release of carbon dioxide. Horse manure is the most widely used for this purpose.

The advantage of a biological solution to the problem is that it is accompanied by an evaporation process, while simultaneously moisturizing the soil. The number of waterings will be significantly reduced.

Solar

It is almost impossible to achieve a favorable microclimate inside the greenhouse without using special equipment. However, in areas where the sun shines throughout the year and the temperature does not drop too low, natural solar heating can serve as a solution.

One of the prerequisites is that the roof of the greenhouse must be transparent so that it freely lets the sun's rays inside. The latter will warm up the plants and soil, in turn from them the surrounding air will be heated.

In addition to the above condition, it is necessary to adhere to other features when organizing solar heating of the greenhouse in winter:

The greenhouse should be located in the brightest place in an area that is not covered by shade for most of the day.
To prevent the wall coating from cooling quickly and spontaneously, it is necessary to choose an arrangement with a minimum amount of air flows
It should be borne in mind that the temperature inside will reach its maximum only around the evening.
The best shape of the greenhouse is arched
In order for the soil to warm up better, it is recommended to make the greenhouse as low as possible.

Natural solar heating is the simplest, most profitable and cheapest. Low efficiency is considered a significant disadvantage, especially in cloudy or cloudy weather.

Water heating for greenhouse

Most often, summer residents equip greenhouse water heating in winter, which everyone can do independently. At its core, it will resemble the classic heating system at home, when a heated liquid coolant circulates through the pipes and radiates its heat.

For implementation this method it is necessary to choose the most suitable place for the location of the heating installation (it can serve as a boiler, stove, etc.). They can also be located in a separate room, but not far from the greenhouse.

It is necessary to decide on the type of coolant circulation:

Natural circulation is the simplest method, when the heated liquid rises through the pipe to the expansion tank located above the boiler, and from it flows naturally at a slope into the pipe lines
Artificial circulation - it is similar to natural circulation, but the movement of the coolant is carried out due to the installed circulation pump

It is recommended to give preference to the second method, since it provides a higher speed of fluid movement through the pipes and does not allow it to stagnate. You should not pour ordinary water into the mains - it will probably freeze soon. Diluted antifreeze is the best option.

Video tutorial

Greenhouse heating in winter can be arranged in any convenient way. Moreover, each summer resident is able to do all the work on his own, without the involvement of a specialist and with minimal initial costs.

For those who are going to make a greenhouse for the winter for the next few years, it is recommended to combine 2-3 methods by turning on biological heating. This will make it possible for sure to warm up the greenhouse from the ground to the top and insure yourself in case of situations when one of them is ineffective or, for some reason, impossible.

The procedure for building a winter greenhouse with heating with your own hands - from the choice of materials to installation

Each owner of a land plot has its own motivation for building a winter greenhouse on the site. The general procedure for work (choosing a place and materials, drawing up a drawing, and so on) is not much different from the construction of any other structure with your own hands - a private house, garage or summer kitchen. But since we are talking about a winter greenhouse, and even with heating, then you should deal in more detail with all the nuances of its installation.

Further, only the features of such a construction will be described and given practical advice... A reader who does not know what, for example, a foundation tape, a grillage, should first familiarize himself with this information in the "Construction" section.

Do not be distracted by such details as the shape of the greenhouse (one-, two-, three-slope, arched, combined or otherwise), its dimensions (including the height), and so on. All this is at the discretion of the owner, since a lot depends on what the greenhouse is being built for (growing something for yourself or for sale) and what crops are supposed to be planted in it. Therefore, it makes sense to consider only the nuances of the installation of its constituent parts - the foundation (base), frame structure, its coating, utilities (lighting + heating).

What to consider before starting construction

A feature of a greenhouse with heating is that such a building is mounted as a stationary, non-separable structure (as opposed to a polycarbonate greenhouse). Therefore, a correct approach to choosing a place for a capital structure is required, which, if necessary, cannot be disassembled and transferred to another segment of the territory.

Light mode

The greenhouse should be positioned and oriented to the cardinal points so that it is naturally illuminated as much as possible during the day.

Rose of Wind

Heating is installed in greenhouses, which, as a rule, are operated all year round. Therefore, you should think about organizing the fence from the most problematic direction. You may have to install a windscreen on several sides. If you think over everything carefully, then you can quite significantly reduce heat loss and save on heating, not to mention an increase in crop yields.

Do not forget about the turbulence of air flows. It is the higher, the smaller the interval between the fence and the greenhouse wall. Consequently, it will be necessary to "heat" more intensively, as the extraction of heat from outside will increase. The dimensions of the building also matter. If you focus on the average indicator, then the optimal distance between the hedge and the greenhouse is about 6 - 7 m (with a ridge height of 2 - 2.5 m).

Convenience of approach to the greenhouse

This will greatly facilitate both the construction process and the maintenance of the vegetation. If possible, you should take into account the specifics of laying communications - lighting, water supply, heating (if it is not autonomous) - in order to minimize costs.

Heating option

The design (scheme) largely depends on the scheme according to which heating of the greenhouse is organized. This will be discussed in more detail below, but it should be noted that if a boiler is installed inside a building, it will be necessary to provide for the presence of not just a vestibule, but a separate room with appropriate dimensions. The linear parameters (cubic capacity) of the mini-furnace must correspond to the capacity of the installed unit.

Features of the choice of materials and installation of the greenhouse

Foundation

Its depth depends on the characteristics of the soil, the configuration of the underground aquifers and the availability (efficiency) of the drainage system at the site.

Tape

This is the most popular type of foundation in the private sector. But given the cost of materials (primarily cement) and the low weight of the greenhouse, whether it is worth building a foundation of this type is a big question. In addition, if the site is already planted, then it is extremely undesirable to carry out large-scale earthworks (there is a high risk of damage to the root system of plantings) or it is not always possible (due to engineering communications laid across the territory).

Conclusion - if local conditions allow, then it is advisable to use a shallow strip foundation.

Columnar (pile)

For a greenhouse - a more suitable option. And if pipes are used as supports, then excavation will be reduced to drilling pits at the designated points. With screw piles it is even easier.

You will need to mount the grillage. What is the point of heating a building, under the floor of which "the wind walks"? By the way, in the space between its bottom and the ground, if necessary, you can put some kind of insulation, for example, fill in expanded clay. But mineral wool is not suitable, as it will absorb moisture over time and begin to collapse.

Frame

In general, the choice of materials for the "skeleton" of the greenhouse is large, but for capital construction it is somewhat narrower. Building walls from bricks or concrete blocks is not a cheap pleasure. We will consider simpler technologies.

Wood

It should not be used unambiguously. There are several reasons. Firstly, it dries up, which means that heat loss will increase. Secondly, the need for regular treatment with special preparations and coloring is an unattractive prospect. Plus money and time. Thirdly, not all vegetable crops like a "close neighborhood" with a tree. Experienced gardeners often cite cucumbers as an example. Fourthly, there will be problems with the glazing, as well as ensuring its tightness during the entire life of the greenhouse.

Metal

If you use aluminum samples, then the weight of the structure will turn out to be insignificant. The difficulty lies elsewhere - in its assembly. Not everyone can bend the metal profile correctly - experience is required here.

Plastic

For a small greenhouse with heating, this is the best option. Pipes can withstand significant loads, easily change geometry, are inexpensive - there are enough pluses. The only question is how to securely fix such a frame on the foundation?

Tape - rods are embedded in it (from pipes of small diameter, a bar or something similar) according to a pre-drawn scheme, on which the plastic is placed.
The pillars are the same. A solution is poured into the supports to ensure strength. It is in it that pieces of pipes of a smaller section or thick reinforcement are installed.

If a boiler is mounted in the vestibule of the greenhouse, then between it and the main room there should be a wall (partition) with a door. Part of the roof (above this utility room) is covered with an opaque material.

Sheathing

It is not worth talking about materials such as polyethylene film or glass. In the first case - due to the short service life and high heat loss. In the second - due to the complexity of installation and high cost. Pay attention to polycarbonate. But since we are talking about heating, then you need to choose cellular polycarbonate.

There are several advantages of such a greenhouse cover:

acceptable price;
light weight;
strength;
ease of fixing sheets with your own hands;
good light transmission and heat conservation;
excellent maintainability.

Engineering systems

Arrangement of ventilation and lighting is not so difficult. It is only necessary to provide for the possibility of controlling light and air flows. How to do it - manually or install automation - the owner decides for himself. The same applies to the water supply. Someone will make a diversion from the main line and stretch a separate thread to the greenhouse, while someone will be quite satisfied with a bucket of water from a well located next to the building. But heating is worth talking about separately.

Greenhouse heating options

Actually, this is the most important moment in the whole process of building a winter greenhouse. It is the constancy of temperature and uniformity of heating of the building that is the key to high productivity. What to choose as a source of heat energy can only be decided by the owner himself, since even hypothetically it is impossible to take into account all the nuances of construction and the capabilities of the owner of the site, especially if the work is done by hand. But a small overview of the options would be appropriate.

With such heating, the air inside the room is heated. The peculiarity is that the farther from the heat source, the lower the temperature. This option is suitable either for small greenhouses, or, if necessary, to heat the room by sector. For example, when zoning a space in the case of planting different types of crops with different requirements for temperature conditions.

Water heating

If the greenhouse is set up as an extension to a residential building or is being built near it, this is the best option. Pulling the pipes is not a problem. The only difficulty is whether the heating boiler will "pull" an additional load. Here you have to think about what is more economically profitable - to look for another engineering solution for heating (also money) or to purchase a boiler of higher power.

It is worth thinking about how to lay pipes inside the greenhouse with your own hands. There are several schemes, and the feasibility of the implementation of one or another depends on the characteristics of the building (first of all, the dimensions) and the crops grown.

Along the walls, along the perimeter. Maybe with the installation of radiators.
In the ground (inside the beds).
Under each level. This is done if crops are grown in containers located on racks.

Heating cable

It is used instead of pipes and is laid in a similar way. There is no need to follow such heating, as, for example, a stove - everything is done automatically. The only condition is that there should be no problems with en / supply, which is typical for suburban areas.

IR heating

Economical and effective method heating the greenhouse. Electricity / energy consumption is minimal. The main thing is to correctly arrange (mount) heat sources, since such products are produced in different designs, even in the form of films. All the pros and cons of infrared heating are described in detail in this article.

These are not the only options for electronic devices. You can think about purchasing air heaters (but they dry the air), oil radiators - there is a choice.

Heating with biofuel

On many sites, this heating method is positioned as the most economical. But if you look closely at the technology, a number of questions arise. For example, where to get manure, sawdust and the like for a city dweller? How long will one bookmark last? Plus to this - strict requirements for air humidity, aeration and a number of others. It turns out that such heating is a rather troublesome business. So - for an amateur.

Output

In principle, there cannot be a specific recommendation for the construction of a winter greenhouse. The information provided is quite enough for the reader to make a choice of the most suitable project and option for the interior arrangement of the premises. Everything can be done with your own hands if you approach the solution of the issue thoughtfully, in a businesslike manner.

Greenhouse for winter growing vegetables

A winter greenhouse is a useful construction for a land plot that allows you to grow horticultural crops all year round. It is used both for their own needs and for the cultivation of fruit plants for sale.

The most versatile material for building greenhouses is polycarbonate. It is he who allows the use of the latest construction technologies, constructive developments and technical equipment for greenhouses.

Polycarbonate retains heat well and lets in enough sunlight

Structural differences between summer and winter greenhouses

The purpose of greenhouses is the same for any season - they are designed to protect plants and provide them with enough heat for growth and development. However, in terms of construction, winter greenhouses differ significantly from summer buildings:

As the material for the frame sheathing, materials are used that are resistant to loads, temperature changes and weather conditions. As a rule, it is glass or polycarbonate. In summer greenhouses, a strong film is sufficient.

Summer greenhouses warm up well during the day and the air does not have time to cool down overnight. In winter greenhouses, a heating system is required to maintain a comfortable temperature for growing.

Winter buildings require insulation to avoid drafts and heat losses from the heating system.

Summer greenhouses are often made in the form of arches, for winter ones a gable roof is required so that snow does not accumulate on it.

Thus, summer greenhouses work exclusively due to natural factors - long daylight hours, solar heat, natural ventilation system. And in order to grow plants in winter, the necessary climatic conditions are artificially recreated in the greenhouse.

For light-loving plants, additional lighting must be created.

Polycarbonate in the construction of winter greenhouses

The use of polycarbonate in the construction of winter greenhouses is due to its strength and light transmission qualities. The advantages of this material are as follows:

resistance to mechanical damage;

good aesthetic characteristics;

low weight of the structure - suitable for any frame;

perfectly conducts sunlight;

ease of processing and installation of sheets;

the material can withstand heavy loads - it is important with a large amount of snow in winter;

tolerates strong heating and cooling, does not deteriorate under the influence of UV rays.

All these factors make polycarbonate an ideal material for the construction of winter greenhouses. It perfectly protects plants from snow and frost and allows maintaining the correct microclimate in the building.

In the greenhouse, early frosts are not terrible for thermophilic plants.

Greenhouse design options

The construction market offers a huge selection of shapes and sizes of greenhouses. Therefore, customers always have the opportunity to make it for their own needs. When choosing a design, it is worth considering the type and number of plants that are planned to be grown in a greenhouse.

A heated winter greenhouse can be quite long or wide. For private land plots, there are standard turnkey size grids.

The base of the greenhouse is usually rectangular or square. The roof is made in various forms:

The main condition for the roof of a winter greenhouse is the presence of a slope so that snow can slide off it under its own weight and does not accumulate on the roof. It is also recommended to make vents in the roof to ventilate the structure.

Greenhouse vents are most often located at the top of the roof

Hotbeds, as a rule, consist of one "room", however experts recommend organizing a heated dressing room. This is done so that, with frequent use in winter, the plants do not suffer from the penetration of cold air from the street.

On our site you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of small forms from construction companies, presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-rise Country".

Construction stages of polycarbonate greenhouses

The construction of a polycarbonate winter greenhouse is quite difficult technological process... It consists of several stages that affect both the construction of the structure itself and its internal equipment.

Foundation

The polycarbonate winter greenhouse has a weighty structure and to give it stability, you will need to lay the foundation. It can be of one of three types:

The latter option is most often used in the construction of capital greenhouses. The strip foundation is laid in several stages:

marking the construction site, digging a trench approximately 1 m deep;

laying waterproofing at the bottom of the trench;

installation of reinforcement to strengthen the foundation;

filling the trench with gravel-sand-cement mortar;

laying of heat-insulating material on a dried strip foundation.

After preparing the foundation, anchor bolts are mounted in it for the subsequent fastening of the frame. Sometimes a layer of brick is laid out on the foundation, in this case, the fasteners must pass through the masonry and penetrate into the foundation.

Arrangement of a strip foundation for a greenhouse On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer a turnkey installation service for greenhouses and similar structures. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

Frame installation

For the construction of the frame for polycarbonate sheets, metal profiles, pipes and corners are most often used. This choice is due to the strength and durability of the metal base compared to wood.

The installation of the frame is carried out in several stages:

fixing the bottom cover to the foundation using anchor bolts;

installation of vertical uprights on the lining using bolts or by welding;

connection of vertical profiles with horizontal flashing along the top;

installation of a frame under a pitched roof.

The integrity and strength of the entire greenhouse structure depends on the correct installation of the base. Therefore, it is produced exactly according to the planned plan and calculations.

The finished frame for the greenhouse remains to be sheathed with polycarbonate sheets This might be interesting! In the article at the following link, read about a mini-greenhouse for summer cottages and houses.

Sheathing of the frame with polycarbonate

Polycarbonate sheets are selected and cut to the size of the frame. They are attached to the profile with bolts. Installation begins from the bottom of the greenhouse from the corner joint. The sheets are constantly leveled using a building level so that there are no gaps and overlaps between them. The joints must be waterproofed from the side of the room so that moisture does not accumulate in them and fungus does not form. For this, sealants and other building compounds are used.

Greenhouse sheathing with cellular polycarbonate

Heating

The heating system in a plant greenhouse can be solved in several ways. The most budgetary option is to install a stove with pipes in which hot smoke circulates. Heating takes place by heating the air from the chimney. The disadvantage of such a system is manual control, which does not allow leaving the greenhouse unattended.

Water heating is considered a more convenient option. It can be organized by installing a gas boiler in a greenhouse, or by bringing a pipe from a residential building. The air is heated by conventional radiators installed along the greenhouse wall. In some cases, a semblance of a "warm floor" is made from polypropylene pipes underground, through which hot water circulates. This allows you to heat the soil and plant roots in winter.

Another type of heating system is combined. It includes the following elements:

Infrared lamps for lighting and heating plants from above;

Polypropylene tubes filled with heat carrier, recessed into the soil.

The joint work of these elements of the system allows you to evenly heat the air in the upper and lower parts of the room. Another advantage is automatic control. The system is equipped with air temperature and humidity sensors and can independently regulate the indoor climate indicators.

Scheme of a "smart" greenhouse heating system

Lighting

In winter, the daylight hours are short, so the plants in the greenhouse do not have time to receive enough UV rays. This slows down their growth and leads to various diseases.

To improve the efficiency of the greenhouse, additional lighting is installed in it. Its level is selected depending on the crops grown in the greenhouse - a little light is required for greenery and seedlings, for berry and fruit plants it should be strong enough.

For lighting, sodium lamps are used, which give photosynthetic radiation, that is, they produce ultraviolet rays that mimic sunlight. They are installed directly above the beds or shelves with seedlings. Sometimes ordinary fluorescent lamps are used, but they are less effective.

Greenhouse lighting with ultraviolet lamps

All lighting wiring must be protected against moisture, as the air in greenhouses is very humid and water droplets can settle on all surfaces.

This might be interesting! In the article at the following link, read about heating the greenhouse.

Watering

To organize watering of plants in a greenhouse that does not require manual control, it is equipped with irrigation systems. The most versatile of these is drip irrigation. It consists of a reservoir with liquid and pipes stretched along the perimeter of the beds. Such a system is installed at the stage of construction of the greenhouse frame.

In some cases, spray valves are mounted on top, above or to the side of the plant beds. The watering option is selected depending on the needs of the crops grown in the greenhouse.

In order not to walk with a hose throughout the greenhouse, you can make a water supply wiring even during design

Ventilation

A greenhouse ventilation system is an important part of creating a comfortable microclimate for plants. Although a polycarbonate greenhouse is considered a winter greenhouse, it is generally used all year round. In the summer, it is very important to prevent overheating and overmoistening of the air - for this, a ventilation system is needed in the building.

In polycarbonate greenhouses, several openable window modules are made in the roof or upper part of the wall. They are equipped with automatic valves that open and close windows depending on the air temperature. This allows you to ventilate the room and keep the plants fresh.

It is desirable that the ventilation provides for the possibility of strong and weak ventilation.

Video description

How to choose the right greenhouse, see the video:

Video description

A few more words about the choice of high-quality polycarbonate:

This might be interesting! In the article at the following link, read about polycarbonate greenhouses.

Heated traditional greenhouse and its innovative design

A heated greenhouse will really increase your yield. And its construction is a simple and inexpensive business. Therefore, its construction will not require special skill, but only the desire to enjoy the harvest, fresh salads and berries. Moreover, its year-round model will be ideal. However, a heated greenhouse is also a winning move.

It is only important to correctly determine the location of their placement. It is it that will reward the owners with an early harvest and save on heating. Therefore, it is advisable to do it where it is as calm and sunny as possible. Often prudent gardeners prefer to attach a greenhouse to the always warm wall of a heated house. At the same time, the costs of supplying heating to it are also reduced. Although this wall must be insulated from greenhouse moisture.

Heating types

The biological method heats the greenhouse in winter with an exothermic reaction of biofuel and air. For example, horse manure, when rotting, maintains + 60 ° C and keeps it up to six months. They also use sawdust, straw and their mixture with household compost waste. This cheap way to heat the greenhouse is also the most beneficial for the plants.

Technical heating is more varied:

They prefer to heat the greenhouse with electricity.heaters or cable loops on the foundation - a variant of a warm floor. Although excessive humidity is dangerous here and the cost of electricity is high.

Stove heating can be arranged independently. For example, lay out a brick firebox in the vestibule, and lay the chimney along the greenhouse. Then a heated greenhouse with your own hands will always warm up with carbon monoxide, tending to the chimney. At the same time, a safe distance from the chimney to plants and walls is maintained - at least half a meter.

Improved view - greenhouses with water heating. Here, the boiler and the pipes connected to it circulate heated water from above and along the walls, then back to the heater (gas, electric or stove). And the expansion tank at the highest point guarantees the right pressure.

Gas heating is efficient but energy intensive. After all, greenhouses with gas heating are heated from its combustion in a boiler. Pros: uniform heating of air, enrichment of it with carbon dioxide, which multiplies productivity.

A greenhouse heated by a domestic boiler is economical if it is attached to the wall of the house or near it. By the way, the insulation of the outer pipes will reduce heat loss. It is clear that the power of the boiler should be enough for this warm greenhouse.

Building materials

For the construction of a greenhouse structure, you will need a large aggregate (crushed stone) and a fine aggregate (sand). Cement will also provide foundation strength. Optimally, this is a strip foundation more than half a meter deep: after all, the structure itself is light. You also need to make a heat-insulating "pillow" of expanded clay and sand.
Ceramic (red) brick is needed for the basement above the foundation. It is usually laid out in 3 rows. By the way, moisture resistant brick is less susceptible to deformation from steam and temperature.
Film structures poorly retain heat and break through with wind, snow, icing. Then the crop will die. Therefore, they prefer to cover the winter greenhouse with a more reliable material. For example, double covering with elastic special film with a guarantee of more than 8 years.
Glass is a traditional coating. Moreover, double glazing is required. After all, a layer of air between 2 glasses will keep precious heat, money for heating. When considering how to build a winter greenhouse, it is necessary to design ventilation transoms.
Cellular honeycomb polycarbonate is the newest covering for greenhouses. This year-round greenhouse is the most reliable. Factory samples are equipped with an advanced powerful design and are easy to assemble by hand.

This material retains heat better, so the problem of how to heat the greenhouse is simplified. Indeed, heating such a polycarbonate structure is less costly: this polycarbonate will keep heat even at -40 ° C. For greater protection of plants and saving money during insulation, an additional inner insulating layer can be made of foil.

Heating a greenhouse in winter with a diesel gun (video)

Heated structure device

Let the frame for a winter greenhouse also be durable: made of metal or wood.

Glass, cellular polycarbonate or film are attached to it. Pipes, boiler heat winter greenhouses.

Already when designing, they are guided by energy saving and expediency.

Therefore, projects with a pitched roof to the south are popular. Then the sun's rays hit it almost at a right angle and heat the greenhouse as much as possible. Let the northern vertical wall be opaque, and from the inside it is insulated with an insulator covered with foil, which ideally reflects heat and light onto the beds.

The frame, its racks are best made of thin pipes: they are light, but reliable. Although high-strength plastic is also good. The correct frame shape will multiply energy savings and yield. Therefore, when building a greenhouse with your own hands, they make a roof slope of more than 30 degrees. Then the snow will not linger, as, indeed, on the popular arched greenhouses. After all, the snow load can destroy the winter greenhouse. Now the most in demand are frames erected from a shaped pipe by welding. The arch is formed by bending pipes with a section of 20x40 mm. But the year-round arched greenhouse will become stronger with corner posts made of 40x40 pipes.

Light exposure affects the harvest. A winter day is 3-6 hours, and this is not enough for plants. Therefore, plant breeders recommend taking care of artificial lighting that is comfortable for grown crops and beneficial for gardeners. The range of luminaires is wide: from conventional bulbs to LEDs. Their rational arrangement will especially increase the yield of light-loving plants, which will be near light sources.

So, many are interested in how to build a greenhouse with heating. It will increase the amount of harvest. After all, the goal is to build a winter greenhouse at a minimum cost, and the season for collecting vitamins will become endless.

Economical heating or how to warm up in Siberia (video)

Winter greenhouses with heating

These characteristics make it possible to equip a winter greenhouse for growing flowers or heated greenhouses for vegetable crops. A winter greenhouse with heating allows you to be ahead of the competition by almost a month when collecting and selling early vegetables in spring.

Thanks to this efficiency, winter greenhouses are in demand not only in farms in Moscow, the Moscow region and other regions of Russia, but also on plots in dacha and garden cooperatives and partnerships, as well as in private housing construction. This is due to the fact that the construction and heating of a polycarbonate greenhouse in winter can be ordered by specialized enterprises or carried out on their own, if you have the appropriate engineering and construction skills.

In any case, if you are not sure of your own skills, it is better to entrust the installation and insulation of greenhouses to specialized enterprises.

In the company "New Forms" in Moscow, you can choose from a catalog, order production or buy a ready-made greenhouse for the winter period with the subsequent installation of a heating system. Here you can also choose the necessary types of polycarbonate and profiles from the best manufacturers in Russia and abroad for self-arrangement for winter heating of polycarbonate greenhouses. The enterprise has its own production base, which, along with direct supplies of covering material and profiles, allows setting one of the lowest prices in Russia for all types of products and offered building materials for greenhouse structures of any configuration.

Heating types

A heated greenhouse in spring and winter requires different amounts of heat energy. Let's look at what types of heating for greenhouses exist, and depending on the location of the farm, the area of \u200b\u200bthe greenhouse and the crops grown, you can independently decide which heating is better in spring and which is better in winter. But not all heating methods allow you to adjust the heating mode.

Bioheating

This is the simplest and most natural option, which allows you to increase the temperature of the organic layer of the soil - the so-called warm beds. Microorganisms contained in compost or manure, which fertilize the soil, in the process of life contribute to the decomposition of these organic fertilizers with the release of thermal energy. The heat released by the organic layer is sufficient to heat the root system of garden crops.

But not only the root system of plants needs a comfortable microclimate. In addition, in those regions where spring is a little less severe than winter, biofuel can only serve as an auxiliary type of heating.

Furnace heating system

Sufficiently effective for a small home greenhouse, where the heat generated from the combustion of solid fuel is directed into a channel equipped in the ground under the root system. Part of the heat when the furnace body is heated enters the room. The stove is mounted with a recess in the ground. Temperature adjustment is not possible.

Water heating

Provides efficient heating in winter and spring for greenhouses of any size, if the heating boiler output is correctly selected. Depending on the type of fuel, the boiler can be gas, electric, liquid or solid fuel. The water heated by it is fed through pipes to a pipeline mounted under the ground or to radiators. It is possible to use radiators and piping systems at the same time according to the underfloor heating principle.

Provides the necessary general microclimate for all types of crops in the room. Adjustment possible depending on weather conditions.

Electric heating

Installation of a resistive cable is carried out under the ground like a warm floor, as well as on walls. It is possible to lay ready-made heating mats under the ground. In the latter case, it is possible to regulate heating not only by the season, but also by the type of crops when installing independent sensors and settings for planting zones.

Heat gun

Gas, electric or liquid fuel heaters of direct or indirect heating are rarely used due to high energy consumption, mainly as a backup heat source in case of a sharp drop in temperature outside.

Heat pump

A very expensive equipment that draws heat from the soil and water bodies heated over the summer. Heat pumps as environmentally friendly heating systems are used primarily for housing, and at the same time for the greenhouse, if available. But at low temperatures, more efficient heat sources are needed.

Solar collector

Provides warmth to the greenhouse only during the day. To maintain the temperature regime at night, it is necessary to have other sources of heating.

Can I use IR

Infrared (IR) heating is one of the most effective for greenhouses, which is becoming more and more popular in Moscow and the Moscow region. IR emitters act on plants and soil not indirectly - through air, water, but directly - absorbed by opaque objects. Most of the heat of IR emitters instantly reaches the target - heating both plants and soil at the same time.

IR heating provides the following benefits:

uniform heating of the entire volume of the room;
exclusion of air dryness;
suppression of vital activity of microorganisms dangerous for vegetable and flower cultures;
transfer by convection into the air of heat from the heated soil, plants, the body of the greenhouse structure;
close to the natural solar heating of plants.

Types of IR heating

If you need a structure that is heated in an almost natural way according to the principle of solar heating, we recommend insulating the greenhouse with IR emitters. Film, or tape, emitters are mounted in the ceiling of the greenhouse, and body-type emitters are mobile, and the height of their position can be adjusted after installation on the walls.

Due to the spherical surface, body IR emitters provide greater uniformity of room heating, and tape emitters are more economical and perfectly and evenly warm the soil. The use of those and other models of emitters can solve almost all the problems of the greenhouse heating system.

Depending on the source of energy, IR heating can be easily assembled with your own hands on the basis of an electric, gas or liquid fuel power system.

The motivation for building a heated greenhouse varies. It is needed for growing vegetables all year round. And also to extend the period of cuttings of garden plants and the successful wintering of young seedlings. The purpose for which a winter greenhouse is being built directly affects the way it is heated, the degree of illumination and a whole range of technical characteristics. In the article, we will consider how to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands using the example of a polycarbonate structure. And also consider in detail the methods of heating it.

Types of heating a winter greenhouse

Before building a winter greenhouse with heating, you need to calculate how long a certain temperature should be there. If the greenhouse is used for growing mother plants and their further propagation by cuttings in January-February, then it is enough to bring the temperature in the greenhouse to +10 ºС. To grow vegetables, you will need at least +20 ºС. Based on this, it is worth choosing the most cost-effective heating method. Let's consider several basic options.

Advice: if you need to raise the temperature only in early spring, when there is no severe frost, then the "old-fashioned" method will do. Fresh manure is placed under a layer of earth of 20 cm in pure form or mixed with sawdust. From above, the soil is spilled with warm water and covered with a film. When rotting, the temperature of the manure rises to 60 ºС. This process takes 4-6 months. and heats up the ground and the air above it well enough.

Electric way of heating a winter greenhouse

Since electricity is one of the most expensive heating methods, it is suitable only for small greenhouses that have high tightness and, preferably, thermal insulation of the foundation.

Stove method of heating a winter greenhouse

Almost all summer residents have an incomparable stove "potbelly stove". This is an inexpensive way to warm up a room very often used in greenhouses. With relatively inexpensive fuel, it warms up and keeps the temperature in the greenhouse for a long time, even in winter, up to 20 ° C.

Tip: old and modern stoves are heated with wood, wooden scrap from pallets and even shavings. The last 2 types of fuel in excess are offered free of charge in any city. And in addition to heat, wood ash is obtained at the output - a storehouse of microelements for plants.

Of the minuses, the following can be noted:

heating will always be uneven. The stove will be much hotter. In this case, air exchange will not occur. Therefore, either it is placed at a distance from the plants, or a fan is installed next to it;
open fire is used - and this is fire hazard. It is required to observe safety precautions and not place fire hazardous objects nearby;
you have to constantly throw up fuel, which means that you constantly have to be near the greenhouse.

Tip: stove heating is also suitable for heating the soil. For this, pipes from the stove are laid underground. Passing through them, warm air heats the soil and, rising upward, heats the air as well.

Water heating for a winter greenhouse

Greenhouse water heating can be made natural or forced:

natural - when the water in the boiler is heated, its volume expands. And it independently flows through the pipes to the radiators. Pipes are mounted on a slope;
compulsory - the system has a pump that circulates the heated water cyclically;
but the greatest effect when heating a greenhouse in winter can be achieved by setting two-circuit system... In this case, one circuit is the pipes of a warm water floor, which are placed under the soil, and the second circuit is radiators for heating the air. This significantly accelerates the growth of plants, creating a favorable microclimate for them, when it is warm both at the roots and under the roof of the greenhouse. In addition, by equipping the system with a thermostat, the temperature will be maintained automatically.

Infrared heating of a winter greenhouse

This heating method has several advantages:

air heating starts very quickly, almost immediately, at the moment of switching on;
you can purposefully warm a certain area with plants;
works silently;
has a large selection of fastening methods;
oxygen is not burned during operation. And the absence of a fan excludes the formation of dust, which adversely affects the plant, when settling on the leaves;
the air does not dry out and high humidity remains in the greenhouse. Which, in turn, creates a favorable microclimate for planting;
the presence of thermostats will make it easy to select the desired temperature;
due to the fact that there are no mechanical moving elements in IR heaters, the service life without repair is very long, even with round-the-clock use;
compactness makes them convenient for use even in small greenhouses or greenhouses;
IR heaters are classified as fireproof equipment.

What difficulties you will have to face when choosing this method of heating a winter greenhouse:

the initial installation of IR heaters is quite expensive;
a large number of fakes of well-known brands of equipment, therefore, being tempted to a lower price, there is a risk of a quick breakdown of the device;
it is important to accurately calculate the required number of heating elements, based on their power, room volume and possible heat loss.

Where is the best place to place an IR heater in a greenhouse? To a greater extent, it depends on individual conditions: the size of the greenhouse, the power of the equipment and the range of heating by infrared rays. But there are a number of universal requirements:

the most successful placement is above the landings;
the minimum distance from the lamp to the landings is 1m. In order to maintain this distance as it grows, it is recommended to mount it on suspensions;
or use weaker heaters permanently mounted under the roof of the greenhouse. The temperature at the ground will be slightly lower, but, on the other hand, a large area of \u200b\u200bplantings will be heated;
for a standard country greenhouse, these heaters are recommended to be installed with a minimum step of 50 cm. 2-3 devices are enough for a 6x3 m greenhouse;
if you need to heat a large area, then it is more rational to arrange them in a checkerboard pattern to exclude cold zones.

What to look for when choosing an IR heater for a winter greenhouse:

in pursuit of large harvests, summer residents sometimes use industrial infrared heaters in their small greenhouses. They emit short wavelengths that guarantee faster plant growth. But you should know that they will negatively affect your health. Therefore, before purchasing a heater, you need to pay attention to the scope of its use;
even for commercial greenhouse heating, you should not choose electric infrared emitters. Electricity consumption will be extremely costly and economically unprofitable;
ceiling infrared heaters are generally designed for tall production greenhouses. For household purposes, they sell devices on tripods, or with a wall mount;
on average, one industrial heater can heat a greenhouse up to 80-100m², and a domestic one up to 15-20m².

DIY winter greenhouse with heating

Consider how to build a winter greenhouse from modern material - polycarbonate

Do-it-yourself foundation for a winter greenhouse

An important aspect of construction is the creation of an energy efficient space, without gaps and cold bridges. Therefore, it is recommended to build a foundation. But before filling it, you should lay all the necessary communications (electricity, water supply, etc.)
It can be columnar or on piles. But in this case, you will need to sheathe it and additionally insulate it. Better to make a strip foundation. A trench 15-20 cm wide and 50 cm deep is dripped for it. A 5 cm sand cushion is poured onto the bottom and the formwork is mounted.

A waterproofing material is laid in the formwork, a reinforcing cage is placed. It remains to pour concrete.
It is advisable to pour concrete only to ground level, and then lay it out with moisture-resistant red brick. If you pour the solution above, then you must remember that the concrete will have to be waterproofed and closed from the outside and from the inside. If this is not done, the moisture that gets into its pores freezes and expands in winter, which leads to microcracks and further destruction.
If the basement is laid out of bricks, then used bricks can be used to reduce the cost of construction, the main thing is to choose red - it is more moisture resistant.

DIY frame for a winter greenhouse

The frame can be ordered ready-made from metal arcs. Or cook it yourself, then the greenhouse will have a gable roof. If there are no welding skills, but you want to build as cheaply as possible, then the frame is made of wood.
Since the greenhouse will have high humidity all year round, the boards for the frame need to be prepared. They are cleaned with a grinder or sandpaper. After that, they are covered with special antiseptic impregnations. Additionally, it can be treated with a liquid waterproofing agent such as a primer.
They begin to assemble the frame from the bottom harness. For this, a beam with a section of 10x10 cm is placed around the perimeter of the foundation.
The pitch between the vertical beams depends on the snow cover in the region. If there is a lot of snow, then the step between the posts should not exceed 60 cm. Putting them more often is also not rational, the light transmission will decrease, and the price of the building will increase.
On top of the wall racks, a strapping is also made from a bar with a section of 5x5 cm. The rafters are attached to it using metal corners. It is advisable to reinforce the roof every 2 m with a horizontal beam, which is attached to the upper trim between the roof slopes.

Tip: to make the winter greenhouse as energy efficient as possible, a small vestibule with an additional polycarbonate door is placed at the entrance.

Polycarbonate is attached outside, the thickness is chosen from 8 or 10 mm. Fix it on self-tapping screws with a rubber gasket.

How to build a winter greenhouse with heating video

DIY greenhouse heating system installation

Let's take a look at the example of hot water heating.

Helpful hints:

the oven is placed in the greenhouse itself, since it will also radiate heat;
for fire safety, the stove should be installed on a non-combustible base. If the heating will be carried out by a portable stove-stove, then a flat metal sheet is sufficient. If a stationary brick oven is laid out, then a concrete base is poured under it;
in a winter greenhouse, ventilation must be provided in the form of a window;
all pipes that will lead directly from the stove to the heating system must be made of metal. The use of PVC pipes is allowed only at a distance of 1 m from the heater;

to circulate water, an expansion barrel is mounted as high as possible.

Work stages

For proper heating of the winter greenhouse, the soil must be warmed up. For this, high-strength cross-linked polyethylene water heating pipes are used.

Tip: it's better to invest in initial stage and equip the heating system with an automatic control unit. This will allow the temperature to change depending on the development of the plants.

For efficiency, heating pipes in the ground should be insulated from below so that all the heat only goes up. In place of future beds, a layer of fertile soil is removed. A protective net from a mole is placed on the bottom, on top of it there is a film to keep the sand.
A layer of sand 5-10 cm is poured onto the film and heating pipes are laid serpentine with a step of at least 30 cm.
In order for the soil to warm up evenly, the pipes are covered with a layer of sand 5-10 cm. A fertile layer of earth is poured on top.

Heating a winter greenhouse with warm smoke

A standard stove-potbelly stove is capable of heating a greenhouse area of \u200b\u200b10-15 m2. It must be located away from the walls of the greenhouse. So, if they are made of metal and glass, then 30 cm recede, if they are made of polycarbonate, then not less than 60-70 cm.
Both the old models of stoves and the modern ones consist of the same structural elements: a firebox, a chimney and a pipe. Fuel is thrown into the firebox, where, when burned, it emits heat, or rather warm smoke. He, passing through the pipe inside the greenhouse, heats the room and goes out into the chimney.
They start with the foundation for the stove. This will protect it from sinking into the ground and possibly falling. A pit 40-50 cm deep is being dug under it. Its dimensions depend on the stove and on whether it will be further bricked.

Then the sand pad and the drainage layer are poured in at the same time. At the bottom, with a layer of 20 cm, put a mixture of crushed stone and sand. You can also add brick shards there.
A blind area is built from wooden boards. So that when pouring it does not warp, the gap between the pit and the boards is filled with sand. Fiberglass reinforcement is placed inside and filled with concrete. A film or roofing material is placed on top and left to harden for 2-4 days.
If you want to raise the foundation, then they erect right on top of the foundation brickwork on clay-sand mortar (cement can crack). During work, you need to constantly use a plumb line and a level so that the site is in an absolutely flat horizontal plane.
If it is possible to make fire-resistant walls around the stove, then it is better to bring the furnace hole outside so that it can be heated from the street. This will reduce energy consumption (you do not need to constantly open - close the greenhouse doors) and avoid smoke inside the building.
To reduce the cost of construction, a simple stove-stove can be made by hand. To do this, choose the simplest shape - rectangular. To heat a 15m2 winter greenhouse, it is enough to make a 50/30/40 cm oven (l / w / h).

First, they make a drawing of the future stove and transfer it to heat-resistant sheet metal. Elements are cut with a grinder. First of all, the bottom of the furnace and 3 walls are welded. Having stepped back 10 cm from the bottom, metal corners are welded, a grate will be laid on them (you need to buy it in advance in a store or make it yourself). Cell size 2-3 cm2. In the future, the fuel will be stacked on the grate and, during combustion, the ash will fall down, where it is convenient to clean it.
Traditionally, the chimney is made from above, therefore, before welding the lid, a 12-15 cm hole is made in it. But if it is supposed to heat the soil, then the chimney is placed on the side or below.
On the front wall of the future stove, 2 holes with doors are made (doors can be bought ready-made or made from a sheet of metal and attached to heat-resistant hinges). Through one, fuel is loaded, and through the second, ash is cleaned.
A small piece of pipe is welded to the hole from above. In the future, a chimney will be attached to it.
A stove for heating a winter greenhouse can be lined with bricks, which will reduce the risk of fire and increase the heat transfer period. This is especially true for winter nights. If this is not done, the supports are welded to the structure.
If the greenhouse is small, then, as a rule, one chimney is made, which passes through the entire greenhouse and goes out under the ridge. If it is required to heat a large room and do heating from below, then the chimney is assembled from pipes of equal diameter using welding or special adapters-couplings. Welding allows for the milking of absolute tightness. And when using couplings, clay is applied to all joints under them. The chimney is connected to the stove by either of these two methods.

Advice: when using the stove in a winter greenhouse, you need to properly lay the chimney system. For them, trenches of 30-40 cm are dripped on the beds, in increments of 50-100 cm. Non-woven material is laid down, then pipes are placed and covered with expanded clay. A fertile layer is poured on top.

When heating the air, supports are made for the chimney so that it rises smoothly and at the outlet is above the level of the stove. This will provide uniform heating and traction at the same time.

At the end of the chimney, a chimney is welded through which smoke will go out of the greenhouse into the street. The pipe is wrapped with foil-clad thermal insulation material so that it does not heat up the roofing elements. The end of the pipe is protected with a spark arrestor.
Stove heating dries the air a lot. This is bad for plants in a greenhouse. Therefore, a metal container for water is often placed next to the stove. It will provide irrigation with warm water and evaporate, increase the humidity.

If the question arose of how to build a greenhouse for winter cultivation, then it is necessary to proceed from the average temperature. If any of the above methods are suitable for the southern regions, then for the middle zone and northern regions it will be necessary to install a gas or electrical system.

Do you think that in our time, when there are any vegetables and fruits in stores all year round, a greenhouse is a relic of the past?

So you have never tasted truly fresh, organic, warm, kind, hardworking vegetables.

A winter greenhouse is a simple but very useful facility that will allow you to enjoy fresh sources of vitamins all year round.

Distinctive qualities of a winter greenhouse

A winter greenhouse is a more durable and reliable structure in comparison with. Mandatory elements for it are the foundation and the presence of heating.

The type of foundation depends on the type of greenhouse. For a timber frame, a simple screed may be sufficient. For a major brick building, you will have to build a monolithic base.

The greenhouse roof should be streamlined so that a large amount of snow does not linger on it.

If you plan to grow several types of plants in one structure, then the right solution would be to provide for internal partitions.

Building options

Today there are many different options for building winter greenhouses with your own hands. Which one is better to choose is determined by a number of factors.

Functionality

In winter greenhouses, you can grow not only the usual vegetable crops, but also flowers, mushrooms, and even exotic trees.

The construction process and the interior arrangement of the future greenhouse directly depends on what crops you intend it for.

Location relative to ground level

The greenhouse can be deepened into the ground, it can be on the surface of the ground, and in the third version, these are greenhouses located on existing buildings: garages, verandas, sheds, etc.

By architectural solution

Greenhouses can be: arched, horizontal, one-, two- or three-pitched, as well as combined, wall-mounted, etc. It all depends on the fantasy and material capabilities of the master.

By type of building materials

These can be buildings made of brick or wood, with a frame made of metal or PVC materials. They can be glazed or covered with polycarbonate.

By heating type

The types of heating in a winter greenhouse can be very diverse:

oven;
gas;
water;
electric heating.

In the photo, water heating in a winter greenhouse built by your own hands

By the method of planting

Plants can be planted in regular beds or in containers, which are usually placed on special racks.

Site selection and preparation for construction

It is necessary to position the greenhouse in such a way that as much sunlight penetrates through its cover as possible and provides sufficient illumination to the plants.

In this case, it becomes possible to save money by avoiding the need to install additional lighting.

The orientation of the building from west to east will maximize the use of the scarce rays of the winter sun.

It is no secret that cold winds cause great heat loss. Therefore, by placing the greenhouse in a place protected from the wind, you can save money spent on heating.

If there is such an opportunity, then a very rational solution would be to place a greenhouse near the wall of a house or some other structure. The south, southeast or southwest wall is suitable for this.

Do not place the building near trees. Their root system can destroy the foundation, and snow and fruits falling from branches can damage the coating.

Try not to set up your greenhouse in low areas with high water tables. This can cause too high humidity and damage the plants.

Choosing the type of heating

Greenhouse heating is perhaps the most difficult, costly and time consuming issue. But, because, how correctly the type of heating will be selected, the productivity of the future structure directly depends.

There are many options for arranging heating. Each of them has both its positive points and disadvantages.

It is worth choosing the type of heating individually in each specific case, taking into account a number of individual characteristics: climatic zone, financial capabilities, type of plants grown, etc.

Solar heating - the easiest and cheapest way. However, in buildings intended for growing plants all year round, this heating can only be used as an additional heat source in combination with the main heating.
Biological heating. This type of heating can also only be additional in winter facilities. Heat is released as a result of the decomposition of biologically active substances, to put it simply, due to the decomposition of manure. When manure is split, carbon dioxide is also released, which is very necessary for plants and evaporation occurs, which helps to moisten the soil.
Electric heating. This is the most popular and effective heating method. When installing it, you can use various electrical devices: air heaters, convectors, cable heating, infrared heating, heating by a heat pump, water heating. The latter type is also referred to as electric heating. Since the water in the system is heated by electricity.
Air heating... This is a professional type of heating, which is installed immediately when laying the foundation and supporting structures. Warm air is supplied to the middle and upper part of the greenhouse using heating and ventilation units.
Gas heating... Heating takes place by burning gas in gas heaters directly in the greenhouse. This method requires the installation of a ventilation system to avoid oxygen burnout.
Stove heating... This is a fairly economical way of heating, which allows you to use various materials as fuel: wood, coal, gas, etc. Its disadvantage is the strong heating of the furnace walls.

You can find out how it is being built in our material. detailed instructions on project implementation, photo and video materials.

Lavender is often used in landscape design: planting and care, breeding features and species composition of the plant, you can study our article.

The choice of material for tightening the greenhouse

The material for tightening the greenhouse is selected depending on the chosen design.

However, there are general requirements for all materials:

good light transmission;
resistance to various kinds of deformations (snow, wind, unforeseen ground shifts);
the ability to withstand sudden temperature fluctuations;
the ability to withstand its own weight;
ease of operation and installation;
cost;
long service life;

Let's consider the most common types of coatings.

Glass - a tribute to tradition

It is a traditional material that is ideal for glazing wood frames or metal corners. Colorless glass should be chosen with a thickness of at least 4 mm.

Glass greenhouse

The advantages of glass include: high light transmittance, good thermal insulation properties, long service life.

The disadvantage is that glazing will require a fairly strong frame to be built. In addition, glass is expensive.

Polymer films

This coating is lightweight and does not require bulky structures. They scatter sunlight quite well.

The downside is rapid wear and the formation of condensation inside the room.

Cellular polycarbonate

This is the most modern material that combines all the positive qualities of glass and film, and even surpasses them in some respects.

In the video, a polycarbonate winter greenhouse is the most popular option for building with your own hands.

Polycarbonate building

DIY winter greenhouses made of polycarbonate have the following advantages:

allows to provide high light transparency and dispersion of sunlight, which allows plants to maximize the use of solar energy;
thermal insulation properties exceed those of glass;
provides structures at the same time lightness, flexibility and high strength;
has a long service life.

It is quite possible to build a polycarbonate winter greenhouse. The choice of a place for construction is made according to general rules for greenhouses.

Construction begins with laying the foundation. It can be built from timber, stone, brick or other materials. But the most reliable and durable is the strip foundation.

The main stages of its construction:

a trench 50 cm deep and 20 cm wide is dug around the perimeter;
wooden formwork is installed;
the bottom of the trench is lined with a sand pillow 30 cm high;
concrete is poured.

To impart strength, concrete reinforcement can be made.

After 3-4 weeks, when the foundation acquires sufficient strength, you can proceed directly to the construction of the frame.

A frame made of wooden beams is cheaper than a metal one. However, metal is considered more practical.

The metal profile is attached with self-tapping screws to the previously prepared fasteners on the foundation. Stiffeners are attached.

Polycarbonate panels are attached to the finished frame. Polycarbonate is cut with a regular saw or jigsaw. The mounting holes are drilled with a drill. Fastening is done with special self-tapping screws with thermal washers.

The final stage will be pasting the joints with perforated self-adhesive tape for additional thermal insulation and sealing.

When building a frame, do not forget about doors and vents.

Be sure to think over the heating, irrigation and lighting system before building.

As you can see, building a winter greenhouse is not that difficult. It is quite within the power of a person who knows how to hold a drill, hammer and saw in his hands, but you still have to work hard.

But after that, your efforts will be rewarded in full, when in winter you will have fresh vegetables and fruits grown by your own hands on your table.

Winter greenhouses and greenhouses. DIY winter greenhouse: types of heating. Selection of building materials

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Why do we need all this and where to start?

Location of the structure

We create the base

Making a frame

Structure cladding

Heating system selection

Internal thermal insulation

Entrance vestibule

Introductory video review

Electric heating

Air heating of greenhouses

Biological heating

Solar

Water heating for greenhouse

Video tutorial

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The procedure for building a winter greenhouse with heating with your own hands - from the choice of materials to installation

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