How to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands. The best do-it-yourself winter greenhouse projects. Optimal building height

All hotbeds and greenhouses are clearly divided into two groups: those intended for growing vegetables and flowers in severe frosts, and those that are dismantled and hidden in a barn in autumn. And winter greenhouses are much more complicated both in their design and in their functionality than summer ones, and therefore it is not easy to build them. Although everything is possible if there is reliable, understandable information - as in this article, which describes in detail and in detail how a winter greenhouse is built with your own hands: detailed tips will help you figure it out.

Typical technology for the construction of such a building

So, how to build a winter greenhouse and what to look for during work? In the same way as the summer one - except that the foundation will be needed. And then, as soon as the installation of the greenhouse is completed, you can proceed to. So, polycarbonate greenhouses on biofuel are considered the most reliable in this regard - this is the most ideal option for giving. After all, technical heating has its limits, and it is not so cheap. But for a structure that stands right next to the house, it is quite suitable, because it can be connected to a communal heating system. So, in order to determine the correct heating wiring, it is necessary to take into account the following formula: the amount of heat demand = the temperature difference between the thermal conductivity coefficient and the glazing area. And calculating this value is just the first step.

Now you need to choose heating devices. Aluminum convectors are considered one of the best, which evenly distribute heat throughout the greenhouse.

The next step is preparing the soil. Its optimal composition is a layer of sand + a layer of soddy soil + a layer of humus. To cultivate such soil, you need to prepare a mixture of a teaspoon of urea and one teaspoon of superphosphate - this way all pests will be destroyed in the winter.

So, as soon as all the elements of the heat accumulator are laid at the bottom of the pit and its ventilation pipes are installed, everything needs to be covered with PVC film from above. This is necessary so that the soil does not get into the heat accumulator and does not clog it in the end. On the other hand, such a coating helps to create good conditions for the accumulation of humus in the greenhouse.

Option # 2 - gable winter building

A solid gable winter greenhouse can also be built without problems with your own hands. It can be fenced with greenhouse frames or glazed. Even a small vestibule with a working room can be made literally from improvised means and in a relatively short time.

So, the optimal design of a winter greenhouse of such a profile looks like this:

The foundation should be 40x40 cm in section.
The walls must be laid out in one brick - 25 cm, and on them bars of 15x15 cm in cross section should already be placed, with obligatory grooves for greenhouse frames.
The rafter part is made of bars with a section of 10x10 cm. The rafters themselves should be connected with longitudinal bars that are laid on the walls, together with a ridge bar. The latter must be done with a section of 12x12 cm.
After work, it is better to sew up all the gaps between the frames with slats, and it does not hurt to install a galvanized profile on the visor.

Such a polycarbonate winter greenhouse with a glazed roof and heating will, of course, cost more, but it is more durable and much more convenient during operation. More expensive - because it will definitely have to be heated. Therefore, if you want to grow vegetables not at the price of gold, then it is better to invest more immediately, so that you lose less. What are we talking about? About a modern heating cable that is used for floor heating.

Here are detailed instructions on how to build this miracle greenhouse:

Step 1. Dig a trench under the foundation and lay 8 mm of reinforcement in it.
Step 2 Lay about 50mm of EPS on the inside of the trench.
Step 3 Install the greenhouse frame on the foundation and fill the foundation with concrete.
Step 4. Lay the foam on the bottom of the greenhouse, think over, if desired, a small drainage to remove excess moisture from irrigation.
Step 5. At this stage, you can paint the frame and fill in the first layer of the floor.
Step 6. Next, lay the warm floor according to the manufacturer's technology (see the attached instructions).
Step 7. To prevent the floor from cracking in winter, now, at this stage, tighten everything with a road mesh.
Step 8. Make the final screed and fix the polycarbonate on the frame.

This completes the installation. Here's what it looks like:

Option #3 - Double Covered Budget Greenhouse

Here are some good advice regarding the construction of a winter greenhouse with a double film.

We cover the roof of the greenhouse with a triple air-bubble film, and we make the walls with a double ordinary one. Why is it different on the roof? The fact is that with a double ordinary film, condensate will constantly accumulate there, and it is quite difficult to remove it. Therefore, take a hydrophilic film upstairs - no drops will flow from it. And sunlight will still be enough for you.

For the winter in such a greenhouse, you need to fill up all the windows with planks, except for one, and starting from February, you can open one at a time. Underground heating is very important for a winter greenhouse: it can be pipes laid in the ground, electric heating or "". And from severe frosts it is better to use additionally.

The biggest problem with any winter greenhouse is not the air temperature or even tons of snow all around. This is deep freezing of the soil. For example, in Siberia, this value can reach 2.3 meters! Naturally, freezing still gets to the greenhouse, and the soil inside needs to be protected from it. First of all, many people use foam blocks or adobe blocks as a foundation, which with cement mortar and polymer mastic from moisture replace themselves at 40 cm with a thickness of 70 cm brickwork. Inside the greenhouse near the ground, it is also desirable to insulate - it is better with foam, well wrapped in dense polyethylene. Well, at least 40 cm of sand for additional moisture and heat protection.

For the rest, follow these tips:

Council number 1. Pay close attention to soil temperature. The fact is that the higher it is, the better plants assimilate micro and macro elements. But there is a limit here: about 16-18 ° C, after which plants emit less oxygen and the process of photosynthesis is much worse. That is why warm beds from biowaste in a winter greenhouse are not always needed, especially when the entire heating system is designed for a different mode. But such good old technology is often used to stop the freezing of the soil, and not to warm the roots of plants. To do this, follow these instructions:

In the fall, after harvesting, select soil 1.5 meters.
Fill it with a compost layer of grass and horse manure.
Add chopped straw and husks from cereals - to make the earth loose.
After that, you can safely lay metal-plastic pipes for heating - they will not freeze even with strong soil moisture in winter.

All laid biomass will warm the soil well in winter and will serve as some fertilizer at the same time.

Council number 2. in such a greenhouse it is better to do it with the help of a sprinkling system, and - attention! – only warm water. Drip, on the other hand, can end in failure if you have not protected the soil from freezing in any way, so do not risk it.

Council number 3. It is advisable to make a small vestibule in such a greenhouse - this is not only a place to store the necessary tools, but also an excellent “heat pocket” that will protect plants from extreme cold.

Council number 4. Take polycarbonate for a winter greenhouse at least 10-16 mm thick, and if you have already purchased a thin one, then lay it in a thermos in two layers. Also pay close attention to sealing.

Council number 5. Especially dangerous in winter are sharp transitions from daytime to nighttime temperatures. And therefore, despite the thoughtful heating, always use water containers for this purpose - during the day they will accumulate solar energy, and at night they will gradually give it away, thus smoothing out sharp transitions in the evenings and mornings.

And finally, do not be afraid to build a high winter greenhouse - it is not much more expensive to heat it, but the benefits are worth it: excellent microclimate, optimal humidity and ease of use.

Winter greenhouses are not just a place to grow vegetables, berries or flowers. This is the very milestone in the personal history of any household farmer, after which one can deservedly consider himself not just an amateur gardener, but a gardener with a quality mark. However, construction is by no means an easy task, requiring a capital approach, certain skills and careful preparation. Therefore, we have prepared two interesting projects for you to help you as much as possible in this difficult, but very interesting business.

Without any exaggeration, we can say the following - today there are so many different options for building a winter building for growing crops that for a detailed acquaintance with each of them one would have to write a separate book or at least a brochure. As a result, we will not test your patience with opuses from classical typology, but simply pay attention to the main types of differences between them.

Greenhouse buildings for the cold period differ among themselves in the following parameters.

By functionality

They can grow not only traditional garden crops, flowers, mushrooms (champignons, oyster mushrooms, etc.), exotic fruits and citrus fruits. The whole further process of its construction, internal arrangement depends on what exactly you are going to cultivate.

House construction - warm and reliable

By location relative to ground level

Heated greenhouse structures are usually divided into three types: recessed into the ground, built on the surface of the ground, equipped on the top floor of an existing building (garage, shed, house).

By architectural design

There are many options - one, two or three-slope, horizontal, arched, combined, wall. The choice depends on your taste, financial capabilities, the size of the future structure.

Arched winter garden

By type of building materials

Buildings are conditionally divided into brick, wooden, with a metal or PVC frame, glazed or with a polycarbonate coating, etc. In addition, combined structures are often found.

Capital building with brick base

By type of heating

Allocate solar greenhouses, with technical heating (water, gas, stove, electric), buildings on biofuel;

Planting method

They can be planted in a garden bed or in special containers mounted on racks.

Choose a place

When choosing a location, you must first take into account three main factors. First, the lighting regime. The greenhouse in winter should receive the maximum amount of sunlight. Therefore, the building is best oriented along the length from west to east. This is especially important for solar greenhouses.

Correct Orientation

Secondly, it is necessary to take into account the direction of the "prevailing" winds. If gusty cold winds are not uncommon, be sure to consider wind protection. With the right approach, you will significantly save on heating.

Thirdly, arrange the building in such a way that the passage to it is wide enough, optimally convenient. This will facilitate the construction of the greenhouse itself, and subsequent operation..

Advice from a meteorologist
If you decide to build an additional fence or hedge to protect against cold winds, remember that the fence should not adjoin close to the structure. For example, with a ridge height of 2.5 meters, the distance between the wall and the fence should not be less than 7-8 meters. This is due to the fact that the wind flow, having come across a “monumental” obstacle, has a habit of rushing up, bending around the obstacle. And this means that “for dessert” you will get a zone of turbulence, which will actively take heat away from the walls of the structure. The narrower the distance between the building and the fence, the stronger the turbulence will be. The ideal protection option is a hedge 15-20 meters from the greenhouse.

We build a gable in-depth brick greenhouse

Scheme of a gable building

Now that we are already sufficiently armed with the necessary knowledge, we can get down to business. The greenhouse structure built according to this project is distinguished by its versatility. This building is great for both central Russia and regions with a more severe climate. Here you can grow not only garden, but also some horticultural crops. The construction of this type, of course, will be expensive. But believe me, it's worth it. Such structures are durable, convenient, economical.

What does a greenhouse look like

The building consists of two rooms: a working vestibule and a greenhouse. A heating boiler, a control unit for automated processes (watering, ventilation, lighting) are installed in the vestibule. This room should have a length of at least 1.5 m (optimally from 2 to 2.5 m). Among other things, the vestibule is used for the preparation of earthen mixtures, storage of inventory. The walls of the vestibule are laid out of brick. Styrofoam or mineral wool is suitable as thermal insulation. The roof of the vestibule is covered with an opaque material (roofing sheet, corrugated iron roofing, etc.). The partition between the vestibule and the greenhouse can be capital (of course, with a door) or made of plastic or metal-plastic profile with double-glazed windows.

Good advice from a digger
If you are building an in-depth greenhouse, you should follow the basic rule - the soil in the pit should be sampled to the depth of the freezing layer. On average, it is 80-90 cm. The same rule works when pouring foundations for non-recessed structures.

Foundation

On dense natural soils, the strip foundation is poured to a depth of 45-50 cm.

Walls

For the construction of capital walls in this project, one-brick masonry is used (wall thickness 25 cm). Window openings for the installation of greenhouse frames should be located 50-60 centimeters above ground level. The width of the gaps between the windows is approximately 50 or 75 cm (two or three bricks). Thanks to this, the plants will receive additional natural light.

Scheme of the device of the winter structure

Important advice from the builder
Here is another very interesting wall solution:

expel a brick or monolithic base (height - from 90 to 120 cm);

mount a metal, wooden or metal-plastic frame on it;

sheathe the frame with cellular polycarbonate.

Greenhouse frames must be equipped with transoms for ventilation. An alternative option is to equip the frames with supply ventilation valves.

Roof

The gable shape of the roof will provide free flow of atmospheric water. The angle of inclination of the roof planes is 20-25 °. The lower strapping bars (2 pcs.) are laid along the side walls on roofing sheets. The ridge beam is attached to the strapping with the help of paired rafters.

strapping and ridge - timber (section 120x150 mm.);
rafters - timber (section 70x100 mm.);

For light penetrating roofing, double glass is traditionally used, at least 4 mm thick. The roof is glazed on bars (40x75mm.) with gutters for condensate drainage. But today, polycarbonate honeycombs are increasingly used to cover the roof of winter greenhouses. This material has a number of clear advantages over conventional glass. A polycarbonate winter greenhouse will serve you faithfully for at least 12 to 15 years.

Capital structure made of polycarbonate

Useful advice from the glazier
When glazing the roof of the greenhouse, the glass is laid along the folds on the putty (layer - from 1.5 to 2 mm.). Laying glass is best to start from the bottom strapping beam and move up to the ridge. As a putty, it is recommended to use compositions based on natural drying oil or modern plastic mixtures. The glass is attached to the screeds with a wooden or plastic glazing bead, using metal studs (20-25 mm.). A layer of putty should also be applied between the glass and the glazing bead.

To protect the walls from water leakage, a visor made of galvanized profile is installed. The canopy should recede from the plane of the wall by 6-8 cm.

Choose the type of heating

Heating with electric mats

Before building, you also need to decide on heating. The choice of heating depends on the usable area of your greenhouse. For small rooms with an area of \u200b\u200bno more than 15-20 m², stove heating is quite suitable. For more extensive landholding forms, we recommend looking at three possible options:

water heating;
electric heating;
biofuel heating.

Horse manure - provides a temperature of 33-38 ° C (70-90 days).
Cow manure - up to 20°C (100 days)
Overripe bark - up to 25 ° C (120 days)
Sawdust - up to 20°С (14 days)
Straw - up to 45°С (10 days)

Biofuel is laid directly under the fertile soil layer. For proper heating of organic matter, it is important to ensure good aeration (air access), maintaining the required level of air humidity (65-70%).

Advice from an agronomist
When using biofuels, it is necessary to take into account its level of acidity, as this affects the quality of the soil. The optimum acidity cow dung(6-7 pH). Bark and sawdust form an acidic environment (5pH), horse manure - alkaline (8-9pH). In addition to the function of heating, biofuel serves as a source of mineral nutrition for greenhouse plants. Waste biofuel is used as humus.

How to make an economical version of the greenhouse for the winter

If finances do not allow you to build a capital greenhouse, do not despair. With proper ingenuity, you can achieve excellent results with minimal cash outlay. We invite you to see for yourself. How easy and inexpensive it is to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands will tell the video from the program "Four hundred parts":

Smart advice from a businessman
If you plan to use your future greenhouse not only for growing fresh vegetables, herbs for the dinner table, but also for commercial purposes, you will need a building with a usable area of at least 50-60 m². Then the harvest will quickly pay for your costs. According to experts from the Ontario Farmers Association (Canada), the ideal size of a commercial greenhouse for a small farm is 100 m².

Kinds

Foundation construction

Frame erection

Heating and lighting

Water heating

Pipes can be metal or plastic. But, unlike a home water supply system, where the goal is to keep the water in the pipes hot, the tasks here are completely different - the pipes must give off the maximum amount of heat in winter period. Therefore, aluminum or cast-iron radiators are usually chosen for heating the greenhouse.

Methods for heating greenhouses for do-it-yourself installation

Hot water pipes serve both to heat the soil and to raise the air temperature in winter.

Hot air

Often the owners of cottages, or gardeners, whose dacha is located very close to the city, do not stop the summer season at all for the winter. They can grow vegetables and fruits, and fresh herbs in an equipped and insulated winter greenhouse, which everyone can build in their summer cottage.

The main difficulty that gardeners face when building a winter greenhouse is thermal insulation. Not only the temperature in the greenhouse will depend on thermal insulation, but also the cost of heating the room, which consumes a large amount of energy in winter.

Kinds

Not all gardeners need a huge warm building where tropical fruits can be grown in the middle of winter. Sometimes the requirements for a winter greenhouse are completely different, which means that the characteristics of a do-it-yourself building should also differ.

What is the difference between one winter greenhouse and another:

Size and shape. Buildings may be long, rectangular, or round;
Destiny. Building a greenhouse or a winter garden with your own hands is different than a greenhouse for growing herbs or fresh vegetables. Greenhouses for exotic plants, mushrooms or fresh flowers have their own specifics;
Place for building. The winter greenhouse can stand separately from other buildings, on its own foundation, or be deepened into the ground, like a dugout, or adjoin the outer wall of the house and have a foundation in common with it;
Type of heating in winter. This parameter depends on the climate in the region and on how much the owners of the greenhouse are willing to spend. The most economical is the location of the greenhouse next to the main building, since a warm wall will give off part of the energy to the greenhouse. There is also gas, stove, water and eclectic heating. More exotic are winter greenhouses powered by biofuels and solar energy.

Do-it-yourself materials for building are selected depending on the characteristics of the greenhouse and the preferences of the crops that will be grown in it, as well as the climate in the region in the winter. In warm areas with a mild climate, it will be enough to cover the frame with a polymer film that scatters light and traps warm air. In cold regions, materials must be much denser, with better thermal insulation properties. Usually polycarbonate or glass is used.

To save energy, it is very important to choose the right place for construction. All plants need sunlight, especially in winter, when there are few clear days, so the heated structure must necessarily stand in the brightest place of the site. It must be oriented from east to west so that one long side faces south, and the plants receive maximum sunlight.

Foundation construction

No building is complete without a foundation. If a construction is planned, recessed into the ground, a "dugout", then a hole is dug to a depth of about two meters. Usually, in the middle lane at such a depth, the earth does not freeze through, and maintains a stable temperature all year round. In cold regions, where the depth of soil freezing is large, you should think about better thermal insulation for walls.

A more traditional option is a winter greenhouse on a high foundation. The air between the cold soil and the floor of the greenhouse serves as a kind of thermal insulator, so the temperature in the room does not drop even when the heating is turned off for a short time.

It is better to build a foundation in the warm season, when the earth is softer and easier to dig, and the cement sets faster. Usually, a strip foundation is built under a capital greenhouse, which is able to withstand a large mass and has excellent heat-insulating properties.

Stages of construction of a strip foundation:

First, a trench is dug for the strip foundation. For capital buildings, it is recommended to deepen the foundation to a depth of at least 300-500 mm below the level of soil freezing;
Make a foundation at the bottom of the trench for pouring concrete from crushed stone and sand, and make formwork along the walls of the pit;
Install metal fittings;
Pour concrete and let it dry.

It takes quite a lot of time to solidify the foundation: in warm weather, it may take about 10 days to completely dry the composition, and even more in cold weather. So that the concrete does not crack from the heat, it must be regularly moistened with water, or completely covered in the sun with wet rags.

The finished foundation is allowed to stand. This is due to the final solidification and shrinkage of concrete, as well as soil settlement. Builders recommend letting the structures stand for about a month, and even if the deadlines are running out, postpone construction for at least 2 weeks. If this is not done, the finished greenhouse can "lead" and warp.

After the concrete has completely hardened, the plinth can be erected. It is possible to build a winter greenhouse without it, but the heat in it will stay much worse, and more energy will be spent on heating.

The basement of a greenhouse is usually built of brick or stone. It is advisable to build it to a height of about 1 meter from the foundation, and make the width of the outer walls 1 brick (or half a brick, if there is little building material and the climate in the region is warm). Usually, a vestibule is also laid out of brick, which retains heat in the room and serves to store fertilizers and equipment.

Along the perimeter of the brick structure, fasteners are installed for the frame of the greenhouse from reinforcement or a metal corner. Without such foresight, installing the frame will be much more difficult.

Frame erection

The easiest way is to make a winter greenhouse with your own hands from polycarbonate. This material is easy to process, lightweight, retains heat well and transmits enough sunlight. Many gardeners, having tried this material, never return to glass or film, as polycarbonate surpasses them in all respects.

The frame of a polycarbonate greenhouse can be made of wood, metal or a profile pipe. If the greenhouse is assembled with your own hands from improvised materials, then the frame is best made of wood. But if carpentry skills are not enough for this, then it is recommended to buy a ready-made greenhouse and simply assemble it according to the attached scheme.

A do-it-yourself wooden frame for a polycarbonate greenhouse is built from a thin beam. First, a perimeter is made from it - one log is placed on top of a brick or stone plinth and screwed to the reinforcement or a metal corner with anchor bolts. If the winter greenhouse is adjacent to the wall of the house, then at a height of one and a half meters above the base, a lag, a horizontal guide, is attached. If the greenhouse is conceived and designed as a stand-alone structure, then a wooden skeleton structure is erected, a frame on which polycarbonate will be held.

If one roof slope, facing the south side, is made more gentle than the second, then the sun will get much more into the greenhouse, and the energy costs for heating will decrease slightly. This will not affect the usable area.

After assembling and painting the frame, you can proceed with the installation of polycarbonate. There are no significant differences in this process, the main task of the builder is to ensure the tightest fit of the sheets to each other, to the frame of the greenhouse and to the wall of the main building. It is better to use special bolts for fastening polycarbonate, with a rubber gasket under the cap, and do not twist them too tight: under the influence of high and low temperatures, the polycarbonate expands and contracts, respectively, and if the fastening is too tight, the sheet may burst.

Heating and lighting

It is impossible to build a winter greenhouse without a heating system. Such a design is possible only in very warm regions, where the temperature does not drop below zero degrees even at night. If frosts are usually more serious, you need to take care of heating the greenhouse. Of course, the material of the walls and foundation, the sealing of the joints, and the correct location of the greenhouse also affect the thermal insulation. But the main emphasis must be placed on the heating system.

Infrared heating is considered the best for heating plants. Lamps of this type do not heat the air in the room, but the surfaces on which the rays fall, and the reflected heat from the surfaces rises. When heating a winter greenhouse with such devices, the air will always be cool and the soil warm.

The best option is to supplement the infrared heater with a heating film or biofuel, which is buried in the soil. Ordinary horse manure, decomposing, is able to heat the soil up to 30 degrees, and tree bark and sawdust - up to 20-25. Thus, with the right heating system, the plants will be warmed from below as well as from above.

It is necessary to install heaters either under the ceiling, or one meter above the landings - it depends on the power and purpose of the device. Suspended devices are installed under the ceiling with their own hands, and for a greenhouse 4 meters wide, only one row of heaters is needed, installed half a meter apart.

Laying an infrared heating film in the ground is even easier: a roll of film is rolled out over the thermal insulation that is equipped on the floor in each winter greenhouse, covered with polyethylene for additional waterproofing, and covered with earth. Cables for connecting heaters remain outside.

Water heating

There are more traditional and less economical ways to warm the air and soil in winter. The oldest and most popular of them is water heating. If the house is heated in this way, then many site owners, building a winter greenhouse with their own hands, put pipes into it coming from the central boiler. But if this option is not possible, the boiler can also be connected to a separate one, which will heat only landings.

The boiler can operate both on gas and on wood or coal, but you should immediately prepare for high fuel consumption: the length of the pipes through which water flows is winter greenhouse considerable, and the boiler will work constantly.

Pipes can be metal or plastic.

Building a winter greenhouse with heating: step by step

But, unlike a home water supply system, where the goal is to keep the water in the pipes hot, the tasks here are completely different - the pipes must give off the maximum amount of heat in the winter. Therefore, aluminum or cast-iron radiators are usually chosen for heating the greenhouse. Hot water pipes serve both to heat the soil and to raise the air temperature in winter.

Boiler heating imposes additional restrictions on the gardener. For example, the boiler must necessarily be installed on a metal sheet or clay foundation to avoid a fire. And even the most reliable chimney does not exclude a ventilation system, which must be mandatory so that carbon dioxide does not accumulate in the room.

Hot air

Approximately the same as heating a winter greenhouse with water, heating with hot air works. The stove can be installed outside the greenhouse, and hot air, like water, flows through pipes into the room. This method of heating is even less convenient than the previous option, since the air cools down much faster, and it will take more fuel to maintain an acceptable temperature.

How to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands

Kinds

What is the difference between one winter greenhouse and another:

Size and shape. Buildings may be long, rectangular, or round;
Destiny. Building a greenhouse or a winter garden with your own hands is different than a greenhouse for growing herbs or fresh vegetables. Greenhouses for exotic plants, mushrooms or fresh flowers have their own specifics;
Place for building. The winter greenhouse can stand separately from other buildings, on its own foundation, or be deepened into the ground, like a dugout, or adjoin the outer wall of the house and have a foundation in common with it;
Type of heating in winter. This parameter depends on the climate in the region and on how much the owners of the greenhouse are willing to spend. The most economical is the location of the greenhouse next to the main building, since a warm wall will give off part of the energy to the greenhouse. There is also gas, stove, water and eclectic heating. More exotic are winter greenhouses powered by biofuels and solar energy.

Foundation construction

Stages of construction of a strip foundation:

First, a trench is dug for the strip foundation. For capital buildings, it is recommended to deepen the foundation to a depth of at least 300-500 mm below the level of soil freezing;
Make a foundation at the bottom of the trench for pouring concrete from crushed stone and sand, and make formwork along the walls of the pit;
Install metal fittings;
Pour concrete and let it dry.

Frame erection

Heating and lighting

It is impossible to build a winter greenhouse without a heating system. Such a design is possible only in very warm regions, where the temperature does not drop below zero degrees even at night.

How to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands - step by step instructions with photos, videos and drawings

If frosts are usually more serious, you need to take care of heating the greenhouse. Of course, the material of the walls and foundation, the sealing of the joints, and the correct location of the greenhouse also affect the thermal insulation. But the main emphasis must be placed on the heating system.

Water heating

The boiler can operate both on gas and on wood or coal, but you should immediately prepare for high fuel consumption: the length of the pipes through which water flows is considerable in the winter greenhouse, and the boiler will work constantly.

Hot air

How to heat a polycarbonate greenhouse

Frosty winters have long taught gardeners how to heat a greenhouse in dozens of ways. To understand which one you need, decide whether you will be on the site all the time or on the weekends, what vegetables you want to grow. Also, heating depends on the size of the greenhouse.

Before starting work, you need to properly prepare the greenhouse for the winter. Check the foundation, walls and roof to make sure there are no gaps, otherwise you will heat the street.

Heating options

There are many ways to insulate the ground and heat the air in a greenhouse, from industrial installations to do-it-yourself laying of foam and insulation material.

The main power supply for most heaters are:

electricity,
solid fuel,
Sun,
water.

We will analyze the most popular designs, highlight the pros and cons of each - you just have to choose the one that suits your greenhouse.

Electric heaters

Among the variety of these heaters, several groups stand out: those working on the principle of the sun (infrared emitters), warming up the air (heat guns), warming up the soil (thermal mats).

easy to install by yourself;
only a socket is needed for power;
easy to remove and rearrange to another place;
big choice.

do not warm up the air and the ground at the same time;
care must be taken to protect against moisture so as not to damage the electronics;
a large greenhouse needs several emitters.

Tip: To get rid of moisture, you can use an exhaust fan (install it in advance).

Warm floor

It is also powered by electricity and completely covers the base of the greenhouse. You need to remove the earth, lay insulating material and cable, then fill in the beds again - and the heating is ready.

the soil is evenly heated - up to 40 ° C;
soil heating is automatically regulated;
economical - this is a simple system in which there is only cable and insulation;
you will install it yourself, even if you are not involved in construction and design.

humidity must be monitored so as not to damage the cable;
does not heat the air.

Tip: to avoid freezing the beds, raise them above the ground by about 40 cm.

Water heating

It works in the same way as home heating - hot water moves through the pipe and warms the ground. You can conduct it directly from home, or install a separate boiler. Place the pipes around the perimeter of the greenhouse and between the beds.

to install such heating is quite cheap;
you can assemble this system yourself;
well warms up soil and roots of plants.

almost does not warm up the air;
may not cope with severe frosts.

solar heating

Sunlight is the most natural heating for plants. To save the meager heat that the sun gives in winter, install a collector or special panels on the roof of the greenhouse.

convenient for residents of the southern regions.

for the system to work, it is necessary to constantly clean the snow;
the greenhouse should be in the brightest place of the site;
more suitable for glass greenhouses;
even if you collect daytime heat to the maximum, a sharp nighttime cold snap can nullify all work;
expensive equipment.

Stove heating

Many people still put potbelly stoves or homemade stoves in greenhouses, despite the fact that this is an old-fashioned way. If you are attracted to such a system, you can buy an oven of the required size and make independent heating.

easy to use;
you can make it yourself and adjust it to your greenhouse;
you can choose a stove for available fuel - coal or wood;
economical way.

fuel must be added constantly;
the design is quite bulky, it is difficult to move it to another place;
unevenly warms the air - it’s too hot nearby, it’s cool in the far corner;
will not be able to maintain a high temperature if a severe frost hits.

air heating

It is provided by large installations that drive warm air through the greenhouse.

Greenhouse for winter growing vegetables

This is complex equipment, therefore it is installed by specialists during the installation of the greenhouse.

evenly distributes warm air over the top;
does not burn leaves with hot air.

cannot be installed independently;
does not warm the soil;
expensive equipment.

Biological heating

This is organic matter - most often horse manure, which is laid in the ground. It is necessary to remove the soil from the beds, fill one-third with manure and fall asleep again.

manure retains a temperature of 60-70 ° for up to 120 days;
well warms up the soil;
additionally fertilizes, moisturizes the beds, nourishes the roots.

difficult to get;
cannot be replaced with ordinary humus, as it quickly loses heat;
more suitable for the southern regions.

Conclusion: how best to heat the greenhouse

In order for a modern polycarbonate greenhouse to produce crops even in winter, it is most advantageous to install electric heating.

Infrared emitters are the most popular: they are easy to install, they do not require constant attention and complex maintenance. In addition, they imitate sunlight, which will benefit plants.

When buying a greenhouse, decide in advance whether you need it in winter or not. It is much easier to heat it in the spring - the earth thaws faster than on the street. With the first plus, you can already start planting.

How to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands

Kinds

What is the difference between one winter greenhouse and another:

Size and shape. Buildings may be long, rectangular, or round;
Destiny. Building a greenhouse or a winter garden with your own hands is different than a greenhouse for growing herbs or fresh vegetables. Greenhouses for exotic plants, mushrooms or fresh flowers have their own specifics;
Place for building. The winter greenhouse can stand separately from other buildings, on its own foundation, or be deepened into the ground, like a dugout, or adjoin the outer wall of the house and have a foundation in common with it;
Type of heating in winter. This parameter depends on the climate in the region and on how much the owners of the greenhouse are willing to spend. The most economical is the location of the greenhouse next to the main building, since a warm wall will give off part of the energy to the greenhouse. There is also gas, stove, water and eclectic heating. More exotic are winter greenhouses powered by biofuels and solar energy.

Foundation construction

Stages of construction of a strip foundation:

First, a trench is dug for the strip foundation. For capital buildings, it is recommended to deepen the foundation to a depth of at least 300-500 mm below the level of soil freezing;
Make a foundation at the bottom of the trench for pouring concrete from crushed stone and sand, and make formwork along the walls of the pit;
Install metal fittings;
Pour concrete and let it dry.

Frame erection

The tree is necessarily covered with protective compounds that will not allow it to rot from high humidity, crack and dry out.

Winter greenhouse - device, foundation, choice of materials for construction and heating system

Heating and lighting

Water heating

Pipes can be metal or plastic. But, unlike a home water supply system, where the goal is to keep the water in the pipes hot, the tasks here are completely different - the pipes must give off the maximum amount of heat in the winter. Therefore, aluminum or cast-iron radiators are usually chosen for heating the greenhouse. Hot water pipes serve both to heat the soil and to raise the air temperature in winter.

Hot air

Calculation of the heating system of cultivation facilities

Abstract of lectures by V.V. Klimov on the energy of greenhouses,
provided by the expert of the Association of Vegetable Growers of Latvia
"Latvijas dārznieks",
dear Marita Gailite
for the site GreenHouses.ru

1. Determining the required power of the heating system

For this

the period of minimum heat input from the outside is considered, that is, extreme conditions.
night period
coldest day of the year
T air min.
How to make a winter greenhouse with your own hands?
Soil T min. 18оС

Q heating system = Q limit. + Q inf. +/- Q soils.

Q inf. - heat loss due to ventilation through various slots, etc.

About 5% of the total heat is spent on heating the soil, so in further calculations, for simplicity, Q soils. goes down.

Q heating system = Q limit. + Q inf.

Q limit \u003d kt x S limit (Tvn - Tnar)

kt – heat transfer coefficient (W/m2 deg)

kinf =1.25 (infiltration coefficient)

(Tvn - Tnar) - the so-called delta T, the temperature difference inside and outside the greenhouse (oC)

Q heating system \u003d kinf x kt x S limit (Tvn - Tnar)

Heat transfer coefficient values

Examples of calculations.

1) Calculation of heat loss of a glazed greenhouse with an area (S) of 1000 m2 (project 810-24), T ext. \u003d 18 ° C, T out. \u003d 3 ° C

S limit = kgr x S inventory

kgr = 1.5 (for block greenhouses)

kt = 6.4 (table data)

(MG: for non-standard greenhouses, you should immediately calculate the surface area of the greenhouse as the sum of all surfaces, and do not bother with the fence factor.)

Q limit \u003d 6.4 x 1.5 x 1000 x (18-3) \u003d 144,000 W \u003d 144 kW

Q limit + Q inf. = 144 x 1.25 = 180 kW

When kgr = 1.4

Q limit + Q inf.=168 kW

(MG: that is, the lower the fencing coefficient (the larger the block greenhouse), the less heat loss)

2) Calculation of the required Q heating system. glass fencing of a block greenhouse for Moscow conditions, T calc = -31оС

Q heating system \u003d kinf x kt x S limit x (Tvn - Tnar)

Q heating system \u003d 1.25 x 6.4 x 1.5 x 1000 x (15- (-31)) \u003d 552 kW

When kgr = 1.4

Q heating system = 515.2 kW

3) How loaded is the heating system (that is, should the water temperature decrease)?

180: 552 x 100 = 32.6%

2. Selecting the type of heating system

For heating greenhouses are used:

Pipe heating system
Air-calorific
Combined 50% : 50%

Pipes give off part of the heat in the form of radiation, and part of it convectively.

Heaters give off all heat convectively, that is, heat from pipes is closer to natural solar heating. In typical (MG: Anthracite) greenhouses 8-9 kg / m2 the mass of the structures themselves and 14-18 kg / m2 the mass of the pipes.

The standard project 810-82 includes a combined system.

When using heaters, metal consumption is reduced by 4-5 times.

Combined heating is combined with the structural elements of the greenhouse. Combined - combined heating was used in the greenhouses of the Vegetable Experimental Station. V.I. Edelstein, but in modern plants built according to standard designs, it is no longer used.

Heat transfer coefficient- the amount of heat transferred through a unit surface per unit time at a temperature difference of 1 degree.

Continuation of the calculation example

The calculation of the pipe heating system consists in determining the diameter of the pipes and their length.

4) an example of calculating the pipe system at a temperature of incoming water 90 ° C, leaving the greenhouse 75 ° C

Q heating system = k t.tr. x S heating (tin - t n)

k t.tr. - heat transfer coefficient of pipes. For smooth pipes k t.tr. = 12 W/m2 x deg

S heating - pipe surface area

tvn - cf. water temperature in the system (here = (90+75) :2)

552,000 = 12 x S heating x (82.5 - 15)

S heating \u003d 552000: (12 x 67.5) \u003d 681.48 m2

180,000 \u003d 12 x 681 x (X - 18)

(X - 18) = 180,000: (12 x 681)

The temperature difference should be within 20 ... 25 ° C, that is, about 50/30, so that at t n \u003d 3 ° C it was + 18 ° C in the greenhouse.

5) Calculation of the heating system for a typical project 810-99 (klimit = 1.22) for Moscow conditions (tmin = -31оС)

Q heating system \u003d 1.25 x 6.4 x 10,000 x 1.22 x (15 - (-31)) \u003d 4489.6 kW / ha

For the entire six-hectare area (MG: in this case, the heat losses of the connecting corridor are not taken into account)

Q limit = 1.22 x 60,000 x 6.4 x 46 = 21.55 mW

Q inf. \u003d 0.25 x 1.22 x 60,000 x 6.4 x 46 \u003d 5.38 mW

Q heating system = 21.55 + 5.38 = 26.93 mW

Heat loss through the plinth

k t for concrete 2 W/m2 x deg

plinth height 0.30 m

dimensions of a hectare greenhouse 75 x 141 m, the side adjacent to the corridor is not taken into account

S coc \u003d 0.3 (75 + 141 + 141) \u003d 107.1 m2

Q tsok. \u003d k t. x S tsok x (tin - t n)= 2 x 107.1 x 46 x 6 = 59119 W = 0.06 mW

3. Calculation of elements of the heating system

Calculation of heat loss through the soil (according to the method for greenhouses without soil heating).

Heat loss through the soil is least in the center of the projection of the greenhouse and increases towards the perimeter. The entire area of the greenhouse is conditionally divided into 4 zones (see figure) with a step of 2 m

In this case, the values of heat transfer coefficients for each zone are as follows:

The area of each zone in this case is as follows:

S 1 \u003d 141 x 2 x 2 + (71-4) x 2 x 2 \u003d 832 m2

S 2 \u003d (141-4) x 2 x 2 + (71 -8) x 2 x 2 \u003d 800 m2

S 3 \u003d (141-8) x 2x 2 + (71-12) x 2 x 2 \u003d 768 m2

S 4 \u003d 10000 - 832 - 800-768 \u003d 7600 m2

Q soils. 1 \u003d 0.465 x 832 x 46 \u003d 17.8 kW

Q soils. 2 \u003d 0.232 x 800 x 46 \u003d 8.5 kW

Q soils. 3 \u003d 0.116 x 768 x 46 \u003d 4.1 kW

Q soils. 4 \u003d 0.07 x 7600 x 46 \u003d 2.4 kW

Q soils. = 17.8 + 8.5 + 4.1 + 2.4 = 32.8 kW = 0.032 mW/ha

Q soils. sum = 0.032 x 6 = 0.2 mW

Pipe heating system

What should be the surface of the heating system?

Qtot. \u003d k t x S (tav - tn)

S \u003d Q total / k t x (tav - tn)

k t \u003d 12 W / m2 x deg

Q total = Q losses = 27.19 mW = 27,190,000 W

Water from the boiler house 95/70 °C

S \u003d 27 190 000 / 12 x ((95 + 70): 2 -15) \u003d 27 190 000 / 810 \u003d 33 568 m2

How many km of pipes are needed for a 6 hectare block?

2 dm pipe has a surface of 1 m = 0.18 m2

33,568: 0.18 = 186,488 m = 186.5 km

1 running m = 4.5 kg of metal

1 inch = 2.54 cm

Location of heating pipes

50% of pipes are located in the plant zone

3 systems: subsoil, lateral, roofing (MG: as already mentioned, today they also distinguish between subsoil and vegetative (growth tube))

The side and roof heating are rigidly connected to the mains, the overground heating (M.G.: and growth pipes) is connected using flexible hoses. The diameter of the main pipe is 219 mm external and 200 mm internal.

Convectors and finned tubes (MG: finned tubes are very difficult to clean and disinfect)

The higher the coolant parameters, the greater the heat transfer and the lower the metal consumption. Plastic and glass pipes are used. (MG: I saw glass pipes in production, the main drawback is that a tractor driver who doesn’t fit into a turn smashes the entire system to smithereens. It’s hard to fix.)

Underground heating

400 mm recede from the racks of the greenhouse, then the step of laying out pipes for underground heating is 800 mm. 8 pipes are laid on a standard section 6.4 m wide (Anthracite). Metal-plastic pipes cannot be used to heat the soil.

In hangar greenhouses, contour heating is used. Underground heating is not needed only in greenhouses with a water-filled roof (MG: such a design did not go into production, but at one time it was tested at the Vegetable Station of the TSKhA), since the water radiates heat and does not allow the soil to cool.

Distribution of pipes in the greenhouse.

In total 45 km/ha, 6 lateral heating pipes (2592 m, separate riser), registers (kalachi) 36/72 m long.

Surface heating 12,672 m

Roof heating 45 - 12.6 - 2.5 = 29.9 km

With a span of 75 m, it turns out 1359 m per span (22 spans in a standard Anthracite greenhouse) or 18 pipes.

This creates significant shading, so 2 pipes from the roof (4 from the span), i.e. 6.6 km, were added down to the ground heating racks.

There are 14 pipes left at the top.

Distribution of pipes for heating systems

Gaseous fuels

http://www.rosteplo.ru/Npb_files/npb_shablon.php?id=1562

Gaseous fuel equivalents1

Table 10

Of the thousands of cubic meters m2	Gigajoules	Million Btu	Megawatt hours	gigacalories	Barrels of oil	Tons of coal equivalent	Tons of oil equivalent
Of the thousands of cubic meters m2	multiply by
Natural gas

Isobutane

Note: Cubic meters can be obtained from the units shown in the columns by dividing by the conversion factors shown in the table. 1 cubic meter = 35.31467 cubic feet. For example, converting the volume of natural gas expressed in TJ, thousand cubic meters: GJ / 39.02 = thousand m3.

1 All calorific values correspond to the net calorific value.

2 Under standard conditions. To change from standard conditions to standard temperature and pressure, multiply by 1.0757.

3 To change from factory gas in terajoules to a weight basis in metric tons the coefficient 0.02388 is used.

http://www.rosteplo.ru/Npb_files/npb_shablon.php?id=1562

Order of the Federal Tariff Service of Russia No. 38-e/3 dated February 27, 2013 "On Approval of Wholesale Gas Prices Used as Limit Minimum and Limit Maximum Levels of Wholesale Prices for Gas Produced by OAO Gazprom and Its Affiliates and Sold to Consumers of the Russian Federation Specified in clause 15.1 of the Basic Provisions for the Formation and State Regulation of Gas Prices and Tariffs for Gas Transportation Services on the Territory of the Russian Federation, approved by Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation of December 29, 2000 N 1021 "

Winter greenhouse - real, practical, efficient, useful. This type of construction allows you to grow flowers, berries, vegetables, herbs all year round, which enriches the table with environmentally friendly, useful products. But in order to realize the idea, you need to carefully think over the project, choose materials, decide how to keep warm, heat the greenhouse in winter, than illuminate the plants for their full development and growth.

In the article we will analyze the features of year-round buildings, we will give detailed instructions how to make a winter greenhouse with your own hands, we will show you how to properly organize lighting and heating.

Design features of the winter greenhouse

There are several options for winter greenhouses, in order to make the best decision on choosing a design for your own site, you need to study the features of the structures.

Functional

Winter greenhouses differ in functionality:

structures for growing traditional garden crops;
greenhouses for exotic fruits and plants;
facilities for growing flowers, mushrooms, etc.

Each agricultural crop requires its own microclimate, the degree of illumination of the space, therefore, before making a winter greenhouse, it is necessary to decide what exactly will be grown in it.

Winter greenhouse with partially blank walls

Architecture

From many years of practice and feedback from gardeners, it is obvious that the most common types of winter greenhouses are:

arched - oval and asymmetric;
rectangular under a single-gable, arched roof;
combined buildings - rectangular / arched on a high plinth.

Adjoining winter greenhouse - economical, practical for setting up a winter garden and growing greenery

It can be:

stand-alone structures;
rooms adjacent to the main building: a house, a garage, a bathhouse, the wall structure receives additional heat from a common wall, which saves on heating.
constructions-thermoses deepened into the ground.

A photo example of how to make a do-it-yourself winter greenhouse made of polycarbonate, deepened by a third of the frame

If you are building a winter thermos greenhouse with your own hands, then you need to know that its deepening depends on the climatic conditions of the region:

For areas with a temperate climate, the building can be deepened by 1/3 or to the level of soil freezing, only from 1 or 2-3 sides, an earth embankment can be made, and part of the structure can be sheathed with translucent material.
For areas with a difficult climate, especially for Siberia, it is better to deepen the winter greenhouse by 2 levels of soil freezing, make a shed roof of translucent material to ensure sunlight enters the building.

The level of soil freezing, the table is useful in the construction of an underground winter greenhouse

materials

The frame of a winter greenhouse is traditionally made of wood or metal. One or more walls of the building can be deaf, built of timber, logs, tree trunks, brick, stone. Often in winter greenhouses, the lower part is made deaf by 1/3-1/2 along the height of the structure, the upper part is completed from translucent materials.

The most common type of winter greenhouses are buildings on a high plinth. It is recommended to raise the foundation by 100-500 mm above ground level, which helps to significantly retain heat inside the building during the cold season.

For sheathing winter buildings, a durable film, glass, polycarbonate with a thickness of 4-12 mm, and sometimes 32 mm, is used, which is preferable to other covering materials. It is stronger than glass and film coatings, withstands significant physical and mechanical loads, transmits light well, and is not afraid of significant temperature deltas. Winter film greenhouses are impractical, wear out quickly, and it is difficult to heat them.

Good to know: The film is often used to insulate winter greenhouses. It is pulled indoors with a second layer, the resulting air gap helps to retain heat.

Watch a video that will tell you how to arrange a thermos frame for a winter greenhouse.

How to make a winter greenhouse with your own hands - the main stages of construction

Seasonal buildings for growing crops in closed ground are recommended to be deployed along the length from east to west, winter greenhouses - from north to south with a skate, if it is a shed or asymmetric structure, then the slope is to the south.

Foundation

Winter greenhouses are built on the foundation. A tape type base is preferable. If the relief of the site is uneven, then a columnar or pile foundation with grillage. The foundation must be well waterproofed, make thermal insulation:

slabs of expanded polystyrene, polystyrene;
ppu spraying.

If it is decided to convert a seasonal building into a winter one, then it can be bricked around the perimeter, wooden, plastic shields can be arranged, and the resulting layer can be filled with insulation.

Strip foundation from bottles - economically and simply

frame

The frame of the winter greenhouse must be reinforced:

In arched metal structures - double arcs, additional transverse parts, it is also possible to initially make a base from more durable profile pipes, material 40 * 20-40 mm, 60 * 20-40 mm is suitable, the wall thickness of the profile is 2-3 mm, the choice is determined the amount of snowfall in the region;
For wooden winter greenhouses, it is recommended to use a beam of 100-150 * 100-150 mm, vertical supports should be located 1.5-2 m apart, the rafter system is made of a board of 40 * 100-150 mm, as recommended by the regulatory rules for outbuildings.

Double ribs reinforce the frame and help organize the inner layer of thermal insulation

Projects

Having decided on the type, shape, functionality, materials, you can begin to design a winter greenhouse. It’s easier to take a ready-made serial project and remake it under your own conditions. An independent drawing is performed according to the following algorithm:

Draw a site plan, determine the location of the winter greenhouse, taking into account the wind rose and the location on the cardinal points.
Set the dimensions of the winter building, ergonomically, if the width is 2.8-3 m, the height without a roof is 1.9-2.2 m, it is better to make the length a multiple of the dimensions of the carbonate sheet: 2.3, 4.6.8, 12 m and etc. It is not rational to make large winter greenhouses, as this will entail huge costs for lighting and heating.
Develop a scheme of engineering communications: light, watering, heating.
Draw in detail the key elements: foundation - type, depth, dimensions, frame - vertical racks, lower and upper strapping, reinforcement cross-section, truss system. It is important to think over the fastening of parts and how the roof will join the frame.

Heated winter greenhouse, projects of a furnace heating system with pipes into which hot water is supplied

Good to know: In winter greenhouses, it is advisable to arrange a vestibule; an additional room in front of the entrance to the room will protect the plants from frost and drafts.

look practical advice with comments on how to make an insulated winter greenhouse with your own hands, the video tells in detail what you should pay attention to during the construction and heating device.

How to make a winter greenhouse with your own hands - video and step-by-step instructions with photos

Ground buildings are most in demand among gardeners, so we will further consider how a do-it-yourself winter greenhouse is built from polycarbonate on a wooden frame.

We mark the site, dig a trench around the perimeter, 500 mm wide, 800 mm deep. We fill the bottom with crushed stone and sandstone, 200 mm each, ram, level. We mount the reinforcing frame of the strip foundation: 2 horizontal reinforcing belts, 2 rods each, corrugated reinforcement 8-12 mm, distance 200 mm. We fasten with vertical rods, fix the intersections with a knitting wire. At the corners, we bend the reinforcement to the perpendicular side with an inclination of 200-500 mm. We install the formwork, it should rise above ground level by 200-500 mm, the distance between the panels is 300 mm, we check the geometry, strengthen it with a coupler, slopes. We pour concrete, bayonet. When the solution has set, we insert the corners on the anchors to fix the vertical bars of the frame, leave for a month.

How to make a foundation for a winter greenhouse

We remove the formwork, glue the vertical walls of the base with 2 layers of roofing material. We wrap the foam plastic plates hermetically with polyethylene, heat-insulate the perimeter of the foundation, and fasten the insulation to the mushroom dowel. From above we lay 2 more layers of roofing material, we do backfilling of the soil. We lay horizontal waterproofing.

Advice: If necessary, we complete the plinth of brick, stone, timber to the desired height.

We insert vertical racks into the concreted corners, fasten them with bolts, make the upper and lower trim along the perimeter. For the strength of the rack, we fix it with transverse or diagonal elements, we fasten it to galvanized, reinforced corners. From the end we make an entrance opening, 800-900 mm wide, to which we attach a door leaf frame made of a 50 * 50 mm beam to the hinges.

The scheme of how to make doors and windows

We make roof trusses on the ground, the quantity is determined by the length of the winter structure: 2 end and every meter. How to make a farm, see the photo below.

simple wooden trusses

We raise the trusses to the frame, fasten the structure to the skid, check the geometry, tighten it with a skate.

How to make a wooden truss system

We sheathe the frame with polycarbonate sheets, it is better to overlap the joints by 100 mm, fasten them with thermal washers, after 200-400 mm. The ends are closed with a sealed perforated tape. For connection, you can use a docking profile, but this will increase the cost of a winter greenhouse.

Watch the story of how a do-it-yourself polycarbonate winter greenhouse is made; the video tells how to insulate the structure, conduct heating, water supply, lighting, and make shelving.

Greenhouse lighting in winter

Depending on the crop, the total illumination of the winter greenhouse, together with natural sunlight, should be 14-18 hours. Artificial light should completely duplicate the spectrum of sunlight, so you should choose different types lamps:

incandescent;
luminescent;
ultraviolet;
mercury;
LED;
sodium.

The minimum allowable light level in a winter greenhouse is 7 kLk, but 12 kLk is recommended. The calculation of lighting intensity depends on the crop.

Illumination is necessary for the full development of plants.

To illuminate 1 plant, it is permissible to use a 30 W lamp, hanging it at a height of 300 mm from the first sheet. To illuminate a group of plants, it is better to use 50W lamps, a distance of 600 mm or 100W lamps, if necessary, organize a large area of illumination. Lamps of 250 W and more powerful are placed no closer than 1000-2000 mm from plants - this is optimal for winter greenhouses.

The video below provides an overview, the story will help you choose lighting for the winter greenhouse.

Do-it-yourself winter greenhouse - types of heating

Today, there are several ways to heat a greenhouse in winter:

sunny;
biological - a biolayer is laid under fertile soil, for example, horse manure, decomposing under the influence of air, the material produces heat and carbon dioxide;
electrical - heaters, convectors, cable heating, water systems, infrared lamps, heat pumps;
air - professional heating system, installed on load-bearing structural elements or on the foundation;
gas - various devices powered by gas cylinders;
oven - you can use different energy sources: coal, firewood, buleryan, etc.

Watch the video instruction on how to organize water heating of the greenhouse in winter with your own hands.

See how to make polycarbonate greenhouse heating in winter, the video shows rational stove heating.

Cable heating is installed before the fertile layer of soil is introduced into the winter greenhouse. The site is cleared, sprinkled with a layer of sandstone 50 mm, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top, a cable is installed on it with a snake. From above, the heating system is covered with sand, a layer of 50 mm, with a grid, connected to the power supply, then beds can be organized.

How to organize cable heating

The video below shows how to organize the combined heating of a winter greenhouse, cable and electric.

Each land owner has his own motivation for building a winter greenhouse on the site. The general procedure for work (choosing a place and materials, drawing up a drawing, and so on) is not much different from building any other structure with your own hands - a private house, garage or summer kitchen. But since we are talking about a winter greenhouse, and even with heating, we should deal with all the nuances of its installation in more detail.

Further, only the features of such construction will be described and given practical advice. A reader who does not know what, for example, a foundation tape, grillage, should first familiarize themselves with this information in the "" section.

You should not be distracted by such details as the shape of the greenhouse (one-, two-, three-slope, arched, combined or otherwise), its dimensions (including height) and so on. All this is at the discretion of the owner, since a lot depends on what the greenhouse itself is being built for (growing something for yourself or for sale) and what crops are supposed to be planted in it. Therefore, it makes sense to consider only the nuances of mounting it constituent parts- foundation (base), frame structure, its coverage, utilities (lighting + heating).

What to consider before starting construction

A feature of a greenhouse with heating is that such a building is mounted as a stationary, non-separable structure (unlike). Therefore, a correct approach is required to choosing a place for a capital structure, which cannot be dismantled and transferred to another segment of the territory if necessary.

Light mode

The greenhouse should be positioned and oriented to the cardinal points so that during the day it is as naturally lit as possible.

Rose of Wind

Heating is installed in greenhouses, which are operated, as a rule, year-round. Therefore, you should think about organizing a fence from the most problematic direction. You may have to put wind protection on several sides. If everything is carefully thought out, then it is possible to significantly reduce heat loss and save on heating, not to mention an increase in crop yields.

Do not forget about the turbulence of air flows. It is the higher, the smaller the interval between the fence and the wall of the greenhouse. Consequently, it will also be necessary to “heat” more intensively, since the selection of heat from the outside will increase. The dimensions of the building also matter. If we focus on the average indicator, then the optimal distance is a fence - a greenhouse of the order of 6 - 7 m (with a ridge height of 2 - 2.5 m).

Ease of access to the greenhouse

This will greatly facilitate both the construction process and the maintenance of vegetation. If possible, the specifics of laying communications should also be taken into account - lighting, plumbing, heating (if it is not autonomous) - in order to minimize costs.

Heating option

From the scheme according to which the heating of the greenhouse is organized, its project (scheme) largely depends. This will be discussed in more detail below, but it should be noted that if the boiler is installed inside the building, it will be necessary to provide for the presence of not just a vestibule, but a separate room with the appropriate dimensions. The linear parameters (cubic capacity) of the mini-furnace must correspond to the power of the installed unit.

Features of the choice of materials and installation of the greenhouse

Foundation

Its depth depends on the characteristics of the soil, the configuration of the underground aquifers and the availability (efficiency) of the drainage system on the site.

Tape

This is the most popular type of foundation in the private sector. But given the cost of materials (primarily cement) and the low weight of the greenhouse, is it worth building this type of foundation? big question. In addition, if the site is already planted, then it is highly undesirable to conduct volumetric earthworks (there is a high risk of damage to the root system of plantings) or not everywhere possible (due to engineering communications laid across the territory).

Conclusion - if local conditions allow, then it is advisable to use.

Columnar (pile)

Under the greenhouse - a more suitable option. And if pipes are used as supports, then excavation will be reduced to drilling pits at the designated points. With screw piles, it’s even easier.

You will need to mount the grillage. What is the point of heating a building, under the floor of which “the wind is walking”? By the way, in the space between its bottom and the ground, if necessary, you can put some kind of insulation, for example, fill expanded clay. But mineral wool is not suitable, because over time it will absorb moisture and begin to collapse.

frame

In general terms, the choice of materials for the "skeleton" of the greenhouse is large, but for capital construction it narrows somewhat. Building walls of brick or concrete blocks is not cheap. We will consider simpler technologies.

Wood

It should not be used explicitly. There are several reasons. Firstly, it dries out, which means that heat loss will increase. Secondly, the need for regular treatment with special preparations and coloring is an unattractive prospect. Plus, money and time. Thirdly, not all vegetable crops like "close proximity" to a tree. Experienced gardeners often cite cucumbers as an example. Fourthly, there will be problems with glazing, as well as ensuring its tightness during the entire life of the greenhouse.

Metal

If you use aluminum samples, then the weight of the structure will be negligible. The difficulty lies elsewhere - in its assembly. Not everyone can bend a metal profile correctly - experience is required here.

Plastic

For a small greenhouse with heating - the best option. Pipes withstand a significant load, easily change geometry, are inexpensive - there are enough pluses. The only question is how to securely fix such a frame on the foundation?

Tape - rods are embedded in it (from pipes of small diameter, a bar or something similar) according to a pre-compiled scheme, on which plastic is mounted.
The pillars are the same. In the supports, to ensure strength, a solution is poured. Here in it pieces of pipes of a smaller section or thick fittings are installed.

If a boiler is mounted in the vestibule of the greenhouse, then there must be a wall (partition) with a door between it and the main room. Part of the roof (above this utility room) is covered with an opaque material.

sheathing

It is not worth talking about materials such as polyethylene film or glass. In the first case - because of the short service life and large heat losses. In the second - due to the complexity of installation and high cost. Pay attention to polycarbonate. But since we are talking about heating, then you need to choose.

There are several advantages of such a greenhouse cover:

acceptable price;
light weight;
strength;
ease of fastening sheets with your own hands;
good light transmission and heat saving;
excellent maintainability.

Engineering systems

The arrangement of ventilation and lighting is not such a complicated matter. It is only necessary to provide for the possibility of controlling light and air flow. How to do this - manually or install automation - the owner decides for himself. The same is true for plumbing. Someone will make a diversion from the main highway and stretch a separate thread to the greenhouse, while someone will be completely satisfied with taking water in a bucket from a well located next to the building. But it is worth talking about heating in particular.

Greenhouse heating options

Actually, this is the most important moment of the entire process of building a winter greenhouse. It is the constancy of temperature and the uniformity of heating of the building that is the key to high productivity. What to choose as a source of thermal energy can only be decided by the owner himself, since even hypothetically it is impossible to take into account all the nuances of construction and the capabilities of the owner of the site, especially if the work is done by hand. But a small overview of the options would be appropriate.

Bake

With this heating, the air inside the room is heated. The peculiarity is that the farther from the heat source, the lower the temperature. This option is suitable either for small greenhouses, or, if necessary, to heat the room by sector. For example, when zoning space in the case of planting different types of crops with different requirements for temperature conditions.

Water heating

If the greenhouse is being built as an extension to a residential building or is being built near it, this is the best option. Stretching pipes is not a problem. The only difficulty is whether the additional load will “pull”. Here you have to think about what is more economically profitable - to look for another engineering solution for heating (also money) or to purchase a boiler of greater power.

It is worth thinking about how to lay pipes inside the greenhouse with your own hands. There are several schemes, and the expediency of implementing one or another depends on the features of the building (primarily dimensions) and the crops grown.

Along the walls, around the perimeter. Maybe with the installation of radiators.
In the ground (inside the beds).
under every level. This is done if crops are grown in containers placed on racks.

Heating cable

It is used instead of pipes and is laid according to similar schemes. You don’t have to follow such heating, like, for example, a stove - everything is done automatically. The only condition is that there should be no problems with en / supply, which is typical for suburban areas.

infrared heating

These are not the only options for electronic devices. You can think about purchasing heaters (but they dry the air), oil coolers - there is a choice.

Biofuel heating

On many sites, this heating method is positioned as the most economical. But if you carefully read the technology, a number of questions arise. For example, where can a city dweller get manure, sawdust and the like? How long is one bookmark enough? Plus, there are stringent requirements for air humidity, aeration and a number of others. It turns out that such heating is a rather troublesome business. So - for an amateur.

Output

There can be no specific recommendation for the construction of a winter greenhouse in principle. The information provided is quite enough for the reader to make a choice of the most suitable project and option for the interior arrangement of the premises. Everything can be done with your own hands, if you approach the issue thoughtfully, in a businesslike way.

How to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands. The best do-it-yourself winter greenhouse projects. Optimal building height

Typical technology for the construction of such a building

Option # 2 - gable winter building

Option #3 - Double Covered Budget Greenhouse

Choose a place

We build a gable in-depth brick greenhouse

Choose the type of heating

How to make an economical version of the greenhouse for the winter

Kinds

Foundation construction

Frame erection

Heating and lighting

Water heating

Methods for heating greenhouses for do-it-yourself installation

Hot air

Kinds

Foundation construction

Frame erection

Heating and lighting

Water heating

Building a winter greenhouse with heating: step by step

Hot air

How to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands

Kinds

Foundation construction

Frame erection

Heating and lighting

How to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands - step by step instructions with photos, videos and drawings

Water heating

Hot air

How to heat a polycarbonate greenhouse

Heating options

Electric heaters

Warm floor

Water heating

solar heating

Stove heating

air heating

Greenhouse for winter growing vegetables

Biological heating

Conclusion: how best to heat the greenhouse

How to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands

Kinds

Foundation construction

Frame erection

Winter greenhouse - device, foundation, choice of materials for construction and heating system

Heating and lighting

Water heating

Hot air

Calculation of the heating system of cultivation facilities

1. Determining the required power of the heating system

How to make a winter greenhouse with your own hands?

2. Selecting the type of heating system

3. Calculation of elements of the heating system

Pipe heating system

Gaseous fuels

http://www.rosteplo.ru/Npb_files/npb_shablon.php?id=1562

Design features of the winter greenhouse

Functional

Architecture

materials

How to make a winter greenhouse with your own hands - the main stages of construction

Foundation

frame

Projects

How to make a winter greenhouse with your own hands - video and step-by-step instructions with photos

Greenhouse lighting in winter

Do-it-yourself winter greenhouse - types of heating

What to consider before starting construction

Light mode

Rose of Wind

Ease of access to the greenhouse

Heating option

Features of the choice of materials and installation of the greenhouse

Foundation

Tape

Columnar (pile)

frame

Wood

Metal