Bashkir tea-drinking tradition. Tea drinking of old neighbors. Bashkir tea party. Chorus ditties during a friendly tea party

This year Bashkortostan is celebrating a big anniversary. Exactly one hundred years ago, the "Agreement of the Russian workers 'and peasants' government with the Bashkir government on the Soviet autonomy of Bashkiria" was concluded. In honor of this date, we will tell you about the Bashkir cuisine, which is still considered one of the most distinctive and traditional in the South Urals. The hospitable inhabitants of this republic know how to arrange lavish feasts and from generation to generation pass on old recipes for traditional pastries, soups and sweets.

The MIR 24 correspondent talked with the Ufa restaurateur Sabit Baimbetov. The chef shared the secrets of making the right Bashkir tea, meat baked goods and told about the traditional festive dishes of his people.

Correct Bashkir tea

According to an ancient tradition, the Bashkirs drink tea twice in one meal: 10 minutes before the main course is served and 30 minutes after the end of the meal. First, guests are offered a bowl of black tea with honey, the second time the drink is served with warmed milk and a dish of traditional sweets.

The ingredients for making tea are taken in the following proportions:

3-5 g dry black tea
800-1000 ml of water
20 g of flower liquid honey
50 ml warmed milk or cream

The secret to making a delicious and aromatic drink is to use the right raw materials, water and utensils. So, tea should be black, large-leaved, without the addition of herbs, berries and fruits, artificial flavors and colors. Dry tea should be stored in a wooden jar with a tight-fitting lid, away from direct sunlight and foreign odors.

Fresh water is used for tea, boiled only once, otherwise the finished drink will have a metallic smell and a taste of chalk. It is better to brew the leaves in porcelain or earthenware, but not in metal dishes.

According to Sabit Baimbetov, an empty kettle must be warmed up before brewing - for this it is rinsed with boiling water two or three times. Then dry tea is placed on the bottom of the teapot and 200-300 ml of water is poured into it. If the water is soft, the drink is allowed to brew for 3-5 minutes, if it is hard - up to 15 minutes. After that, add the remaining water to the kettle, cover it with a linen napkin and leave it for another three to five minutes.

A sign of a properly brewed tea is foam that forms under the lid of the teapot. It appears when the tea is brewed strong enough and at the right temperature. At this moment, heated milk, cream can be added to the kettle, and if the guest drinks tea with honey, it is served separately.

The finished drink is poured into bowls, instead of sugar, the tea is sweetened with honey. A cup of properly prepared Bashkir tea invigorates not less than strong coffee and may become more.

Bilmәne, or Bashkir dumplings

No fewer cities and peoples are fighting for the right to consider themselves their homeland than for the right to consider themselves the homeland of the poet Homer. According to its special recipe, this dish is prepared in our country, China (baozi), Israel (krepla), Nepal (momo), Korea (mandu), Italy (ravioli), Mongolia (buuzi), Vietnam (ban bot lok). In Russia alone, there are about 50 recipes for dumplings, and one of them is the traditional Bashkir dumplings bilmәne.

Unlike the Ural dumplings, they are prepared with the addition of a small amount of potatoes, so they turn out to be larger and juicier. So that as much juice as possible remains inside the dumplings during cooking, they pinch the bilmәne also in a special way, making them more oblong than, for example, Siberian dumplings.

To prepare minced meat, you will need the following ingredients:

1 kg lamb (add some beef if desired)
2 onions
1 potato
3 tablespoons butter

To prepare unleavened dough, you must take:

500 g flour + 50 g
3 eggs
100 ml cold water
1 teaspoon salt

Fresh washed and dried meat of medium fat content is rolled in a large meat grinder along with raw onions and potatoes. Spread the meat in a deep bowl, add softened butter, add salt and pepper to taste.

The flour for the dough must be sifted carefully so that it is saturated with oxygen. Pour flour on a dry table in a slide, make a small depression in it, drive three eggs and salt into it. Start kneading the dough with your hands and gradually add 50 ml of water. The dough should be tough and firm. The finished dough is allowed to "rest" for 10 minutes at room temperature.

The finished dough is rolled out 2.5 - 3 mm thick and cut into small squares. A teaspoon of minced meat is placed in the center of each plate, then the edges are pinched three times so that the dumplings resemble a boat in shape. Ready-made bills can not be boiled in meat broth for 15 - 20 minutes or steamed for 30 - 40 minutes. This dish is always served with a bowl of broth and kaymak.

Katlama

This name was given in Bashkiria to a soft dough roll with meat filling. The dish is very suitable for festive table- it is convenient to prepare it in a large portion and serve it to guests.

First of all, you need to prepare the sauce for the future katlama - Bashkir housewives call it "Steppe" or "Eastern". 200 g of sour cream is mixed with chopped garlic, a spoonful of mustard, salt, pepper and chopped herbs - parsley, dill, green onions. The sauce is poured into glass jar and let it brew for 1 - 2 hours before serving.

Then you need to prepare a regular dough according to the same recipe that was described in the recipe for Bashkir dumplings. While the dough is "resting", mince is prepared from the following ingredients:

500 g lamb (tenderloin)
1 large onion
bunch of green onions
3 boiled eggs
salt, pepper, herbs to taste

Meat is passed through a large meat grinder, finely chopped onion, salt and pepper are added to it. The dough is thinly rolled into rectangles measuring 15 by 20 centimeters, minced meat is placed on the surface of the dough, and finely chopped onion and boiled eggs are sprinkled on top. The dough is tightly rolled into rolls, pinching the edges.

Next, the katlama is placed in a double boiler, greased with vegetable oil and cooked for 30-40 minutes. The finished rolls are cut into round slices, sprinkled with plenty of herbs, served with sour cream sauce. For spiciness, you can serve chopped onions, garlic or peppers separately.

Sәk-sәk

This legendary sweet dough with honey is prepared all over the South Urals. In Tatarstan it is called chak-chak, in Kazakhstan - shak-shak, and in Bashkiria - sәk-sәk. No matter how the name of the dish sounds, its taste and recipe are universal: these are pieces of dough, fried in oil and plentifully drizzled with honey syrup. What size pieces of dough to make and how to decorate the finished dessert is left to the discretion of the hostess.

To prepare sweets, you will need at least three hours of free time and following products:

200 g flour
3 eggs
3 tablespoons of water
300 ml of vegetable oil for deep fat or 200 g of butter
300 g thick flower honey
Dried fruits, raisins, poppy seeds, nuts and candied fruits for decoration

In a deep bowl, beat the eggs thoroughly with the addition of water. Pour flour into the egg mixture, knead a soft dough. Roll it into a layer no more than a centimeter thick, then cut into thin sausages 1 centimeter long.

Heat oil in a deep frying pan. Fry the pieces of dough until golden brown in deep fat for 3 - 4 minutes, remove them with a slotted spoon and put on a napkin.

Heat thick honey in a ladle, add candied fruits, dried fruits or raisins to it. Pour the cooled pieces of dough with the honey mixture, stir with a spoon and put on a plate in the form of a slide. To make the dessert easier, you can moisten your hands with water and sculpt the desired shape with your hands. Sprinkle the dessert with poppy seeds and crushed nuts. Then it is sent to the refrigerator for 2-3 hours, after which it can be served with strong Bashkir tea.

A few words about traditional hospitality

The Bashkirs are one of the most hospitable peoples of Russia. Any guest is welcomed here with traditional sweets and long conversations over Bashkir tea. Local residents even have their own joke on this score: when you are invited to “drink tea,” the owner will serve not only sәk-sәk and jam, but also pies, boiled meat, fresh bread and butter, and even manti to the table!

Most of the local dishes are very nutritious, with the addition of meat, dough and oil. This is due to the fact that in the winter months the temperature in the region drops to 30-40 degrees below zero. For the treatment of colds, local housewives always stock up on several three-liter jars of honey for the winter - better remedy you can't imagine strengthening immunity in harsh weather conditions.

The main rule of Bashkir table etiquette is that the owner starts and ends eating with his guest. What speaks most eloquently about the local mentality is the fact that if a guest remains hungry at the table, the host must limit himself and give the guest all the best from his bins. That's how she is, hospitable Bashkiria!

Bashkir tea drinking The most widespread, everyday drink of Bashkirs of the 19th century was "family" * (baikhov) tea, less often brick **. Tea drank lightly seasoned milk, rich - sometimes with lemon. They consumed little sugar, more often they drank with honey. It is noteworthy that the Bashkirs never drank the so-called Kalmyk tea - thickly brewed brick tea seasoned with milk, salt and lamb fat. In some places, in the absence of real tea, poor Bashkirs used its substitutes from leaves and flowers of fireweed (bolan uty) and oregano (mәtrүshkә), the latter's infusion was drunk, however, more often as a medicine. The Bashkirs usually ate three times a day: in the morning at six or seven o'clock - irtәnge ash, at noon - tөshkө ash and in the evening - pussy ash. At every meal, they drank tea, and drank it for a long time and a lot. Various desserts were served with tea, among which the most common were: Yyuasa, bauyrһak - finely chopped pieces of rolled unleavened, usually wheat dough, boiled in boiling oil, lamb or horse fat (tuң may). Yyuasa was prepared for future use and kept in bags; it was always served to guests for tea. Sәk-sәk is a festive food, wedding food, which has become widespread among wealthy people in the Urals. Unleavened dough was kneaded from coarse flour on eggs; rolled into thin rollers, it was cut into pieces the size of a hazelnut and boiled in oil. When cooled down, these boiled balls were poured with honey, which cemented them. oimaҡ - ordinary pancakes, which were fried in oil in a pan; the food was not everyday, but was prepared at the reception of guests. Шәңгә - a kind of Siberian cheesecake (shangi). Dairy products, which once occupied such an exceptional position in the diet of the Bashkirs, did not lose their importance by the beginning of the 20th century. They were served with tea: һөт - ordinary raw cow or goat milk - the Bashkirs rarely eaten, boiled ones were always served with tea. Haima, which was also served with tea, as a seasoning, was baked milk with sour cream or thick and dense foam skimmed from boiled milk. The cold, dense foam made of foam was a delicacy. Katyҡ - a kind of Varenets - was prepared from boiled milk, which, after cooling to normal air temperature, was fermented either with old, already peroxidized Katyҡ, or ayran. әzhekәy was prepared in the following way. Milk was added to the finished Katyҡ, and this mixture was boiled in a kettle over low heat to dryness; a yellow mass was obtained, which, before eating, was seasoned with fresh (not baked) milk and served with tea. Prepared for future use, for the winter. һөҙmә is a delicacy that was also served with tea. It was fresh, well-pressed curd (eremsek) mixed with honey. The Bashkirs made butter sour cream (aҡ may) and ghee (һary may), the latter was mainly sold. For themselves, the Bashkirs knocked down ordinary sour cream; they knocked it down in a high, small-diameter linden churn (silәk) using a special stirrer (beshkәk). Served with tea with butter, tortillas or bread. The Bashkirs collected all kinds of berries: field strawberries (er elәge), strawberries (kayyn elәge), raspberries (ҡurai elәge), red and black currants (ҡyҙyl and ҡara ҡaraғat), blackberries (tal bөrҙөgәne), stone cherries (bөr ) and in a particularly large amount of bird cherry (muyil). The berries were consumed both fresh and in the form of a special kind of marshmallow (ҡaҡ). ҡaҡ was prepared from berries, which were rubbed through a sieve or squeezed through a rare cloth. The mushy juice was poured onto a smooth board, previously greased with butter or sour cream so that the marshmallow would not stick to the board, and dried in the sun. After two or three days, thin sheets of ready-made marshmallow were removed from the board, rolled into a roll and served in this form for tea. Pies (blesh, bokken) made from dough stuffed with various berries, whole or ground (cherry, bird cherry) can also be considered a dessert. This dish was known everywhere in Bashkiria. * - tea with the name of the planters, who vouch for its quality. ** - the lowest grade of tea, pressed in the form of bricks

On the eve of the House of Friendship of the Peoples of the Republic of Bashkortostan, a lecture was held by a phytotherapist, vice-president of the Association of Phytotherapists of the Republic of Bashkortostan, a member of the Presidium of the Russian Society of Phytotherapists, chairman of the public organization "Health of the Nation" Mikhail Gordeev.

He gave a lecture "I know how to live long and joyfully." It is impossible to retell his entire lecture in one material, Mikhail Viktorovich must be listened to, he speaks very lively, accessible and figuratively. It was about proper sleep and proper intake of food and liquids. In particular, he dwelled on an important issue - the dangers of black and green tea for the inhabitants of our region. We will try to reveal this topic today.

- Teas are harmful to residents - Indian, Georgian, Chinese, Krasnodar, - says Mikhail Viktorovich. - Both black and green. Harmful for many reasons.

First, there are a lot of tanning agents in tea. They tan the vessels. We have a continental climate - large temperature drops - from very high to very low. And our vessels must be very elastic in order to expand when it's hot and shrink when it's cold. If you drink tea, the vessels become "oak", they are not able to contract or unclench.

In some cases, tannins, of course, we need. For example, if the kidneys become inflamed, protein is found in the urine, or the intestines are upset. But if there are no inflammatory phenomena, then we don't need tanning agents.

Secondly, black and especially green tea contain a large amount of fluoride. Fluorine is a very active chemical element and displaces other halogens from cellular compounds, including iodine. And in our area, there is already a lack of iodine. There is no natural iodine deficiency in the homeland of tea. In the inhabitants of those places, it is extremely rare to find diseases associated with reduced function. thyroid gland, there this function is redundant, hence the natural energy of local peoples. To bring themselves into harmony, they drink tea, partially binding the iodine thus entering, and become calmer, in some cases even melancholic. In our climate with iodine deficiency, we are not distinguished by increased energy. We are characterized by hypofunction of the thyroid gland, very often hidden under the guise of autoimmune thyroiditis. Therefore, drinking tea is a disastrous path for us. For us, iodine is not superfluous. We must cherish every iodine molecule.

Third, tea contains caffeine, an alkaloid, a psychoactive substance that temporarily stimulates the heart. On this doping, a person feels good for a while, since caffeine is a drug, and he gets used to it. Then he can no longer live without tea.

In addition, tea negatively affects the kidneys and, in general, water-salt metabolism. It contains a huge amount of oxalate salts. Unlike phosphate soft stones and smooth urate stones, oxalate stones are very hard, rough, easily injuring the epithelium of the renal tubules. Tea oxalate daily feeding ultimately leads to urine oversaturation with calcium oxalate when the concentration of oxalate in the urine begins to exceed its solubility. A decrease in calcium absorption causes hypocalcemia, conditions are created for stone formation.

Tea in large quantities overloads the liver. This worsens the metabolism, and hence the supply of energy, slows down the elimination of toxins.

Even at the beginning of the 19th century, imported tea in Russia did not enjoy its current popularity; moreover, many educated people saw in it a much more serious threat than vodka. A number of scientists in the 19th and 20th centuries were very critical of tea leaves.

We have an alternative to imported teas in our homeland. This is Koporsky tea, or Ivan-tea, a traditional Russian tea made from narrow-leaved fireweed. This drink began to be called Koporsk by the name of the city of Koporye, where it was produced in large volumes, mainly for export abroad, where it was known as "Russian tea". It improves the state of the nervous system, it contains a lot useful microelements- iron, copper, magnesium, nickel, titanium, molybdenum. It is a good anti-inflammatory agent, disinfecting organs of the genitourinary system - kidneys, bladder, urethra. Koporye tea is a mild laxative, anticonvulsant, antiulcer and an excellent tranquilizing agent. Thanks to Ivan-tea, the activity of the prostate gland is normalized, the prevention of prostatitis is provided. When taking it, men retain their potential to a ripe old age. Ivan tea is a powerful antineoplastic agent. High molecular weight anti-cancer compound hanerol was isolated from it. Koporye tea relieves food and alcohol poisoning, prevents stone formation in the liver and kidneys, eliminates headache, normalizes arterial pressure, increases immunity to respiratory viral infections.

It is very important that everyone can harvest fireweed independently. It is distributed almost all over Russia; it grows in forest glades, clearings, forest edges, on wastelands and dried peat bogs.

Collage by Larisa Vetlugina

Ufa was founded as a Russian fortress, as the most "advanced" outpost of Moscow to the east. A large settlement at the confluence of the Belaya and Ufa rivers has existed since time immemorial. The famous Russian historian of the 18th century Pyotr Rychkov, studying the handwritten documents on the history of the Ufa province of the beginning of the 16th century and the historical legends of the Bashkir people that have not come down to us, wrote that on the territory of the city of Ufa, before the arrival of the Russians, there was a large city that stretched along Belaya for almost ten versts, and frequent archaeological finds on the territory of modern Ufa confirm this.

The South Ural lands, on which the Bashkirs have lived since ancient times, became interested in Moscow after the capture of Kazan by the army of Ivan the Terrible. And soon, as it is written in historical documents, "the Bashkirs began to ask the tsar that to repel the raids ... and for the convenience of donating yasak, it was allowed to build a city on their land."

The self-name of the Bashkirs is "Bashkort", and there are still almost dozens of versions of its origin and meaning, and the range of opinions is simply amazing: some translate the ethnonym as "the main tribe", others - as "the main wolf", and still others - as "master bees ”, there are those who derive it from the Khanty word for wolverine ... As one well-known literary character said, all these theories are both solid and witty.

Bashkir cuisine with its very peculiar and memorable face was formed long ago, and its features were determined by the way of life of the Bashkirs, who in summer were a typical nomadic people, and in winter they turned into a sedentary one. Among the peoples of Russia, the Bashkirs are one of the most zealous meat eaters, a rare Bashkir dish does without meat - lamb, beef, horse meat (pork, of course, is not welcome). It is in the first and second courses, in snacks and pastries, and if in the morning a Bashkir invites you to "drink tea", then be sure that the table will be full of meat, mostly boiled. The almost complete absence of spices and spices (with the exception of red and black pepper) is also very typical for the Bashkirs - the taste and aroma of Bashkir dishes forms a large amount of all kinds of greens.

Here is a typical Bashkir first course

SOUP-SALMA WITH ROLLER

80 g of lamb or beef, half a liter of water, 20 g of onion, 10 g of butter. For salma: 40-50 g flour, a quarter of an egg, 10-15 g water, 100 g katyk

First, cook the salma, knead the unleavened dough, as for noodles. Roll it into a flagellum up to 1 cm thick, cut into pieces. Pressing with your thumb in the middle, shape the ear and dry. Dip sifted salma into boiling broth and bring to a boil. When salma floats to the surface, season the soup to taste with salt and pepper, cook for another 6-7 minutes and add chopped in half rings onion... Put pieces of meat in a bowl of soup, serve katyk separately.

Katyk, which is very common among eastern peoples, is prepared very simply.

BASHKIR'S ROLLER

1 liter of milk, 1-2 tbsp. sour cream spoons

Pour boiled whole milk into a bowl, preferably wooden, and cool to 20-30 degrees. Stir sour cream in milk, close the dish with a lid and put it in a warm place. Wrap the dishes with a towel. After that, you can neither shake the dishes, nor stir their contents. After 5-7 hours, the katyk will be ready and should be placed in a cold place. Such katyk is consumed in its natural form as an independent dish, adding sour cream, jam, sugar, honey, fresh berries if desired. After three days, the katyk will become sour, then spicy. It is this katyk that should be used as a seasoning for soup.

But the real king of Bashkir cuisine is, of course, the famous beshbarmak. It was from Bashkiria that he came, for example, to the Tatar cuisine. Translated, this word means "five fingers". The very five fingers that the nomads used to eat it delicious dish, - they had neither forks nor spoons.

The Bashkir beshbarmak has a number of differences from those that are prepared by other peoples: potatoes, poultry (in this case, goose meat) are added to the dish, the noodles are cut into diamonds.

BESHBARMAK BASHKIRSKY

Half a goose (or the same amount of lamb by weight), 10 potatoes the size of egg, 4-5 large onions, a large bunch of green onions, a full glass of flour, 1 egg, ghee

Wash the meat, chop into pieces the size of a fist. Put it in a saucepan (but better in a cauldron!), Pour water so that it covers the meat by two fingers, add a pinch of salt - so that the foam goes away better, put it on fire. Wait until the foam begins to separate and carefully remove it. Put a couple of unpeeled onions and a bay leaf in the broth, close the lid, reduce the heat and cook the meat at a very low boil for about 1.5-2 hours.

Knead a tough dough from flour, eggs and very cold water and roll it into a layer 1-1.5 mm thick. When the dough dries up a little, cut it into strips about 3 centimeters wide, and then cut these strips into diamonds, sprinkle them a little with flour and leave them on a cutting board. When the meat is almost ready, peel the potatoes and dip them whole in the broth where the meat is cooked. Salt, wait until the potatoes are cooked, but do not allow them to boil. Using a slotted spoon, remove the pieces of meat and whole potatoes onto a platter and sprinkle generously with finely chopped onions and chives. In the broth that continues to boil, lower the diamonds from the dough, cook until tender (literally a couple of minutes), put in a colander, drain the broth and transfer to a separate bowl. And sprinkle them generously with onions and pour butter from the heart.

In Bashkiria, under beshbarmak, they serve special products made from sour milk - sour korot or syuzma, which can be quite worthily replaced with ordinary fermented baked milk. Put onions, herbs in large bowls, pour hot broth and serve. Leave the meat with potatoes and boiled dough on a common dish so that everyone can take them as needed.

Beshbarmak, of course, is very tasty, but at the same time very fatty - not everyone can stomach. Observing the "meat" tradition, you can prepare a dish more familiar to the European stomach, which, by the way, was born in Ufa.

LANGUET IN UFIMSKI

210 g beef, 25 g onions, 5 g butter, 15 ml vinegar, black pepper, salt

Cut the beef into pieces, beat off. Add vinegar, salt, pepper, onions. Mix everything well and leave to marinate in a cold place for 4 hours. After that, fry the meat in a very preheated frying pan. Serve with fried potatoes and butter.

Of course, consuming fatty meat on a regular basis is not good for your health. But it is not in vain that in those regions where they eat a lot of meat, tea is in high esteem, and the Bashkirs are by no means an exception. And at many tea forums and exhibitions, it is Bashkir tea that is recognized as the most delicious.

BASHKIR TEA

2-3 g of dry tea, 30-50 g of milk or cream, 20-30 g of honey or jam, Bashkir sweets

Warm up an empty kettle by rinsing it 3-4 times with boiling water, then add a portion of dry tea and immediately pour 2/3 of its volume with boiling water, close the kettle with a lid and a linen napkin so that it covers the holes in the lid and spout of the kettle. Let the tea brew for 3 to 15 minutes - it depends on the hardness of the water and the type of tea. Top up the kettle with boiling water. Attention should be paid to the appearance of foam. If there is foam, then the tea is brewed correctly. This foam is not removed, but stirred.

The tea can then be poured into cups. Tea is served with honey, best of all honeycomb, jam, sweets or other Bashkir sweets. The temperature of hot tea should be about 90 ° C. It is better to add not boiled milk, but raw pasteurized milk. You can also add fresh or dry leaves of oregano, currant, raspberry, linden, cherry, strawberry, blackberry, etc. to the tea leaves.

The most famous delicacy of those served with tea, both among the Bashkirs and among the Tatars, is considered to be chak-chak. It is prepared from soft dough made from wheat flour premium and raw eggs, forming thin short sticks, shaped like noodles, or balls the size of a pine nut, which are deep-fried and then poured with hot honey mass.

CHAK-CHAK

350 g flour, 7 eggs, 100 g sugar, 350 g honey, 0.5 teaspoon baking soda, 200 g of vegetable oil, vinegar, salt

From flour, eggs, soda, slaked with vinegar, and salt, knead the dough, let it rest for 20-30 minutes. Then roll it into a layer about 2-3 mm thick and cut into strips 2 cm wide, which must be chopped into thin strips. Fry in vegetable oil until golden brown. Boil the honey with sugar until the drop does not spread. Put the fried straws in a large bowl, pour over the hot honey syrup, stir. Put on a flat dish in the form of a slide and leave until solidified. Sprinkle with powdered sugar if desired.

By the way, it was in Ufa in August of this year that the largest chak-chak in the history of the republic was prepared - its weight exceeded 200 kg!

But maybe those who argue that there is no better delicacy on the banks of Belaya and Ufa than an ordinary piece are right white bread, smeared with thick village sour cream and the famous Bashkir honey.