T-shaped siege drawings. Okosyachka, seating of window and doorways. What happens if windows and doors in a wooden house are installed immediately and without a window

The importance of casing in wooden house is beyond doubt. But the cost of its installation can be equal to the price of a glass unit. So for a dozen window openings, a do-it-yourself box in a log house is the most economical option.

Types of pigs and features of their device

Window opening is done after the initial shrinkage of the house. So, a log house should stand for at least a year. During this time, you can treat the walls with antiseptics, put a rough floor. But the decision is purely individual, because in the manufacture of casing boxes, a lot of garbage is obtained - sawdust, oil splashes from the chainsaw chain, which can ruin already processed walls.

The most reliable are monolithic - T-shaped and U-shaped windows. They are able to withstand the deformation of walls made of timber, in contrast to conventional swarms.

This allows windows to be flush with the outside wall, increasing the sill and not worrying about slopes.

You should not buy a ready-made casing, because then you will have to adjust the openings for it, which is much more difficult to perform. If it is not possible to do everything yourself, it is better to invite specialists who will make a jamb on the spot.

Features of the casing device for an adjacent window opening with a balcony door

Due to the strong difference in size, the shrinkage of the openings will occur in different ways. Therefore, in no case should the casing be made common to the window and the adjacent balcony door. They can be delimited by a T-shaped side window.

After the final shrinkage of the house, the gaps will be leveled. But even if not, it is better than filling the gap under the window with foam, which can rise with the door.

Do-it-yourself installation of a window in a log house

Depending on the selected type of casing, the method of its installation is also different. There are only a few general rules:

3-5 cm of deformation gap is left between the top and the edge of the window opening, which is filled with mineral insulation or jute linen, but in no case with mounting foam. The latter, after hardening, will transfer pressure to the window frame, thereby leveling the entire effect of the gap.

All fresh cuts must be treated with a special antiseptic.

Window locks are made in such a way as to minimize the penetration of cold air. The manufacturing process of all key elements is shown in great detail in the video:

T-shaped window

Quite a simple and reliable version of the window is T-shaped. Suitable even for beginner amateur carpenters. It is installed in several stages:

During installation, you should always check each part for horizontal and vertical level. Otherwise, after the installation of window profiles, deviations can be detected, which in the future can lead to incorrect operation of the fittings.

U-shaped cage with reverse quarter

A much more difficult, but also the most reliable option is a siege "in the deck". Suitable for window and doorways of houses made of timber and logs, while the "thorn-monolith" jig is used only in log buildings. For a novice carpenter, such a box will be a real test:

Having no experience of such work, it is better to first practice at a small facility - a bathhouse or a summer kitchen. And then your wooden house will turn out to be really warm and reliable!

There are no houses without windows and doors, but their installation in a wooden building differs significantly from installation in brick house... A feature of wood buildings is shrinkage as a result of a seasonal decrease and increase in the amount of moisture in the wood, at which the rims shift in height.

Window and doorways are most vulnerable to such processes. The windows in them can be distorted with the appearance of cracks in the glass, and sometimes completely collapse. To ensure their safety and proper functioning, wooden boxes of a special design are mounted in the openings, called a box or a siege. Consider how to make a jamb in a log house with your own hands.

The main problems caused by the shrinkage of a log house

An alternating change in the moisture content of wood, coupled with shrinkage processes, leads to bending, twisting and drying of the wood. This leads to the following negative phenomena in the walls and especially openings in which the integrity of the walls is broken:

curvature of the surface of walls and walls;
the formation of cracks and gaps between the bars;
drafts, dampness and significant heat loss;
windows and doors cannot be opened without significant effort;
distortions or breakages of window frames and door leaves;
unsightly appearance of the entire building.

A wooden box installed in the openings will strengthen the walls and will be a good protection of door and window blocks from destructive processes, so the question of whether it is necessary to make a jamb in a log house is rhetorical. This is simply necessary. Doors and windows installed without hinges are exposed to extreme loads, leading to breakdowns of structures or the need for constant adjustment.

Composition of structural elements

A traditional siege consists of the following elements:

two side risers;
threshold or window sill;
top.

All elements consist of timber or edged boards up to 25 cm wide.

Basic casing functions

A window in a log house strengthens walls, piers and openings.
Provides the impossibility of horizontal displacement of the bars.
With vertical upsetting of the walls, it creates the independence of the door and window structures from the load-bearing walls. The grooves in the sidewalls allow vertical sliding of the structure.
Protection of openings from pressure from above with the creation of a gap necessary to compensate for shrinkage.
Protects against the formation of cracks and drafts.
Creating an optimal indoor climate with savings on heating costs.
Harmonious design of door and window openings.

Materials used for manufacturing

Okosyachka is made of high quality dried wood with a moisture content of about 12%. In a drier one, there may be visually invisible small cracks, which during operation will lead to partial or complete destruction of the structure. Mostly conifers are used, but it is preferable to choose hardwood that is not prone to cracking and without falling out knots.

The width of the structure is selected depending on the existing width of the walls. Beams 150 or 200 x 100 mm, edged boards can be used. A combination of different materials is often used, for example, timber for tops and risers, and a window sill from a type-setting adhesive board.

Wood is treated with antiseptics, fire retardants and varnished or painted.

Types of squash in a log house

The design can be performed in 2 main versions:

Rough, if additional finishing is provided. An illustrative example is the subsequent installation of ventilated facades that completely hide the detail. Usually, the perimeter of the opening from above and from the sides is made of non-planed materials, and the visible part, the threshold or window sill, is made of glued bars or furniture boards.
Finishing, made of planed and sanded material with further coating with paint and varnish composition. Usually, expensive and well-processed types of wood are used for manufacturing.

By manufacturing methods, the following types are distinguished:

In the mortgage bar... For installation, a groove is arranged on the inner sides of the opening, in which a square bar is placed. The bar is not fixed, but simply hammered into the groove, which allows it to move along the groove. Finishing boards are attached to the bar with self-tapping screws. The casing is fastened in the lower part with filling of voids with soft heat insulators. The method is the cheapest and easiest to implement, but the most unreliable and requires additional finishing. Failure to ensure proper sealing will almost always require refurbishment or repairs.
Spike monolith... The product is a rectangular T-shaped bar. The spike is inserted into special grooves made in the lumber vertical walls. The vertical part of the casing bar is simultaneously a window slope. Fastening is carried out at the bottom and top using special fasteners, and the free space is foamed on the sides. The bar can be cut out together with the jig from one common workpiece or attached with glue. The structure has good strength and functional characteristics. Often, in this way, a jar is performed in a log house for plastic windows with your own hands. Therefore, we will describe this method in more detail below.
Siege "in the deck"... When installing a spike in the vertical beams of the opening, a spike is cut out onto which a deck made in the shape of the letter "P" is mounted. From above, the structure is bursting with a vertex with fixation with self-tapping screws. Installation is carried out using sealing materials. The construct is ideal for entrance doors-safes and large-sized windows made of wood or plastic, providing high resistance to multidirectional mechanical loads. This is an expensive and difficult option for independent execution.

Installation of casing in a house from a bar

The glued window has earned great popularity among professional builders and amateurs. This is a finished product manufactured at the factory for a specific climatic region. The structure is made with a perfectly flat surface, without the usual knots and chipping. Treatment with fire-fighting and antiseptic compounds, using modern technologies, determines its durability. The factory immediately carries out a high-quality and beautiful finish. The order is carried out according to the dimensions provided by you and the installation of the construct is performed quickly, easily and simply.

In log houses, mainly plastic windows are installed, which have numerous advantages. It is easy to make a window for them yourself.

Let's consider how to correctly make a window frame in a log house yourself.

The order of work when installing "in the thorn":

marking of the opening of the required dimensions;
after aligning the planes with a chainsaw, vertical lines are drawn in the middle of the ends and with 3 cm gaps from them along the line on each side;
grooves are cut out according to the markings on the sides;
the surface is sanded and treated with an antiseptic;
with an end or circular saw, a T-shaped bar of the required dimensions is made;
inserting the upper lintel leaving a 5 cm gap for the insulation and the possibility of free movement with vertical shrinkage;
installation of a door sill or window sill;
pasting of sidewalls with special "breathing" tapes;
prokonopatka of all joints.

The installation of the door casing is carried out according to the same principle as the windowing of windows in a log house, but the parts are made of slightly larger sizes.

18 September, 2016
Specialization: master of interior and exterior decoration (plaster, putty, tile, drywall, wall paneling, laminate, etc.). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.

Any wooden building is subject to shrinkage, and this is an inevitable phenomenon that is noticeable even with the naked eye. However, jigging windows in a wooden house will protect them from deformation.

Window siege

The casing in common parlance is often called a box, and the instruction considers it as an indispensable element in the construction of wooden buildings. This is a wooden box for protecting and decorating window structures.

There are three main types of casing that you can make with your own hands, and they all differ in manufacturing technology.

Option 1. Embedment block

Such a window opening in a wooden house is most attractive for budget construction, as it has the lowest cost. The structure is constructed using edged boards, and so that everything goes as it should:

a groove is cut on the inside of the opening;
a bar with a square section is laid here;
and a finishing board is already fixed to it.

This option is convenient because the installation takes place very quickly, but at the same time, it becomes necessary to finish the slopes after installing the window.

Option 2. Siege "in the thorn"

It has a higher cost than that of the embedded bar, but the quality also increases with the price. This method is usually used when constructing buildings from profiled beams or rounded logs.

The structure is made of a solid bar, which has a rectangular section in the shape of the letter "T":

the vertical part of the bar or the leg from "T" is inserted into the groove;
and the horizontal bar here serves as a window slope, so it is very convenient.

Option 3. Siege "in the deck"

This method is that:

a thorn is cut out in the side of the window opening;
a pre-prepared deck is put on it, which is cut out in the shape of the letter "P", that is, we have a thorn-groove lock.

This is the most expensive of the three main types, but it is considered the most reliable.

Wooden window

Siege "in the log" on a wooden window

If you are building a house from glued beams or rounded logs, then in any case, this will require large financial investments, since, in principle, there is nothing to save on here. Is that on the builders, which means, do it yourself.

But, be that as it may, making a window under a wooden window is a process where the owner can independently apply his skill. In the case of marriage, the situation will be fixable.

Okosyachka "in the deck" and "in the thorn"

To make a simple casing in a wooden house, you will need:

cut grooves in logs or in beams that adjoin the opening;
then prepare a bar with a very even surface (the smoother the better);
insert it into the turned grooves;
first, the lower crossbar is fixed, as it prevents a possible shift of the sidewalls;
only then all the others, and the inserted bar will represent one of the sides of the window;
Before making a bookmark, it is necessary to lay a mezhventsovy insulation. Linen materials such as fiber or jute are excellent for this purpose.
after the lower crossbar is installed, it is the turn of the vertical elements, under which (in the groove) they must also be placed, preventing drafts;
only after assembling the letter "P" turned upside down is the upper crossbar closing the perimeter;
however, it is imperative to leave a shrinkage gap above it, and the insulation is clogged there after assembly, that is, it thickens when it sags.

At this stage, the casing assembly is completed and you can start installing the window, which will already be protected from shrinkage.

Plastic window

If you want to install plastic windows, then when making a window, you will have to face some differences from a similar arrangement for a wooden one. When you prepare the opening, then you should consider that:

it should be 14 cm larger than the window frame;
when the gap is calculated, you will need to take into account the parameters of the seams and the casing itself, and, of course, the percentage of shrinkage of the constructed building.

So, the process itself:

for the base of the carriage with a groove, a comb is cut out from the end of the opening - when the shrinkage process takes place, the logs or beams will fall along this groove inside the carriage. Thus, you can avoid vertical pressure during shrinkage.;
to make a carriage, a 100 × 150 mm beam should be used, in which a groove is cut out in the middle (the comb is put on it);
the width and depth of the ridge made should be 5 cm each, but the size of the carriage should be 5 cm larger than the size of the horse;

All marking should be done using a building level, and cutting is best done with a chainsaw - proven by experience!

the upper horizontal crossbar of the jig is made of a 40 × 150 mm board, where on each side you need to cut out the grooves for laying the ridge;
after that it is put on the combs and put on;
when carriages are already installed on the sides, be sure to fix the upper crossbar with self-tapping screws;
after installation, you will need to be sure to dig in all the gaps with flax fiber or jute.

Features of the jig

It should be said that the installation of windows in a wooden house with a window has some peculiarities. For example, those elements from which a wooden box is made should not exceed 26 cm in width, as cracks will form.

The moisture requirements are also quite strict here - it should not exceed 10-13%, otherwise the wood will form internal cracks.

To make a window for a plastic or metal frame, special precision is needed. Here the pressure will be several times greater, and that is why the cage has a more complicated design, where there is a ridge, a carriage and grooves.

When installing such a structure, you should be especially careful. The fact is that if a self-tapping screw gets into the ridge, then the structure becomes rigid, therefore, it loses its purpose to protect it from shrinkage.

Conclusion

In addition to the above, I would also like to warn against using polyurethane foam as a sealant instead of jute or fiber. When solidified, the foam rigidly fixes the assembly, preventing it from settling in a natural way, which makes the installation of the jig no longer meaningful.

I propose to discuss this topic in the comments, and feel free to make your suggestions!

The casing in its essence is a protective element in the construction of a window or door opening, which ensures the preservation of the geometry of the windows / doors. A cage or window in a wooden house is a kind of buffer between a heavy "living" wall and fragile glass. The correct seating will last as many years as the house itself.

The need for casing openings is due to the very nature of a wooden house. Let's explain in more detail - the vast majority of log cabins / log houses are built from wood of natural moisture (that is, no one dries logs before construction). This wood begins to dry out gradually, while decreasing in size. Accordingly, the walls "sit down" in height.

The process of shrinking a house lasts for years. But even after 3-5 years, no one will undertake to guarantee that the openings will not lead in the future. Therefore, since ancient times, windows and doors in wooden houses were installed with casing boxes - they were then called logs.

Painting by Vasily Maksimov "Interior view of the hut", 1869 - a door in a casing made of a log.

A modern cage is a technological thing, perfectly adapted for the installation of plastic and aluminum windows, heavy balcony blocks, metal entrance doors. Let us consider in more detail what types of casing are now popular, methods of its manufacture, installation scheme in openings.

Casing types

A classic casing block looks like the letter "P" from the end. Now this form of casing also remains the most popular. In log houses with thin walls, the "T" lettering has become popular. Separately, it is worth highlighting the casing in the embedded (cranial) bar. These are the 3 main types of casing.

For each of these types, different profile geometries have also been developed - with or without a quarter sampling, with oblique, semi-antique. According to the methods of processing and purpose, they also distinguish rough and finishing casing, Euro-fence, power, arched, from a carriage, semi-antique, from plywood. There are even combined options when the outer layer of the product is made of valuable wood species.

Let's consider in detail each type of casing.

Siege with the letter "P"

The proven casing shape for centuries. Strong, reliable. It is installed most often in chopped log cabins and houses made of rounded logs. Usually, a quarter is selected on the outside of the casing for the installation of a window or door frame.

Requires the formation of a spike in the wall.

Siege with the letter "T"

T-crimping appeared on the market relatively recently, when profiled timber with cut bowls entered the market. In the ends of the openings of such house kits, a groove was already selected from the factory.

The T-view is used mainly in log houses with a wall thickness of 100-150 mm, log cabins from rounded logs of small diameter. Requires cutting a groove in the wall. In a high-quality T-box, the spike is glued into the body, which greatly increases the rigidity of the product. It is even better when the spike and the main one are one.

Seed in a mortgage (cranial) bar

Defective T-type casing. The embedded block is usually used at the stage of felling or assembling a log house so that the openings do not warp. After the completion of the construction, a wide board is attached to this timber with self-tapping screws, to which the frame (window, door) is attached.

If you use regular sawn timber from the market (not chamber drying), then there is a high probability of getting into rework in the future. Reasons: the bar is clamped and bent when the log shrinks, which leads to it jamming in the groove and stops the shrinkage. The board leads when it dries - as a result, the frame warps. The bar is pressed against the board only at the points of attachment with self-tapping screws - it bends relative to them, the cage begins to blow through.

From the practice of our company - a year our teams remodel up to 80 foreign objects, where windows and doors were installed in a foundation block. The photo shows a real case.

Rough seeding (for finishing)

An inexpensive option for log cabins and log houses, where further finishing is planned. All parts of the casing can be made of solid wood or by glue; no grinding of products is performed. Profile shape T or P, quarter is not selectable. Plastic windows are placed on the installation profile, the window sill is plastic, the slopes, as a rule, are also made of PVC. Inside and outside the opening is finished with platbands.

The window is installed on a plane (without groove selection).

Solid wood finishing

Should be made only from high quality and dry wood. Most often from ordinary pine after forced drying, Karelian pine, cedar, larch, KELO rusk. Profile shape U-type, with or without a choice of a quarter. Looks great in hand-cut log cabins, houses made of thick logs, gun carriage.

Eurosada (fine glue)

A popular option for a finishing casing (no slope finishing required). It is made by type-glue method from dry bars - glued into the face (with knots) or into a microthorn (without knots). The profile of the Euro-frame can be of P and T type, straight or with an extension inside the opening, with or without a quarter.

Antique carriage siege

Upsetting box from KELO carriage - for status houses and saunas, hunting lodges. Does not require installation of platbands - the seam between the casing and the wall is caulked and closed with a decorative rope. The visible part of the casing is skillfully aged (firing, brushing). P-type casing profile, options with or without a quarter cut, with widening of the openings inside the house.

Antique siege (with platbands)

Classic Euro-board is fired and aged by brushing (during processing, soft fibers of the upper layer are removed, the surface becomes rough, but polished). Possible T and P type profile, quarter sampling, opening expansion. Wooden platbands are made in the same style.

Combined siege

The base of the product is made of solid pine, and the top layer is made of a set-adhesive board, which can be made of pine, oak, beech, valuable wood species. The combined shedding successfully combines a pleasant price and aesthetic appearance. The profile of such a casing can be of P and T type.

Plywood boarding

The manufacturing technology of the plywood casing is the same as that of LVL timber. Plywood sheets are glued together reliably. The spike in the T-profile can be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws.

Plywood boarding can well be used as a rough (for finishing).

How a siege is set

In general terms, the process technology is as follows:

an opening is cut in the wall
a spike is formed on the sides of the opening or a groove is selected
the opening is insulated with jute tape
a wind bar is laid in the lower part of the opening and a window sill is mounted
risers are installed
mounted apex
free space above the apex is sealed with a soft insulation

Differences in the installation of door and window casing

The door casing may be missing the lower part - the threshold. In this case, the bottom of the risers is bolted to the bottom rim / bar.

In the window casing, the lower part is always present. But it may look different. The following options are possible:

the bottom is not visible in the rough casing. The windowsill is usually plastic, in the color of the frame.
in the finishing / euro-garden, the lower part serves as a window sill. In this case, the cage can push into the room and to the sides of the openings, forming the so-called ears.

The video captures the entire process of installing the door casing in a log house (T-type, with the formation of a spike in the wall):

The technology for installing casing in a log or log house is the same.

Casing manufacturing

High-quality planting should be made of dry wood (forced drying in drying chambers, output moisture 8-10%). Board, timber from the construction market are poorly suited for these purposes - precisely because of the high humidity.

Pine wood is most often used, as the most common and inexpensive. Spruce is also used. Exclusive is also possible - cedar, larch, Karelian pine, KELO rusk.

The basis for the solid casing is a carriage with a thickness of 50 mm and more. For P-casing, take a carriage from 90 mm. The casing width is equal to the wall thickness.

The type-glue planting can be with or without knots. In the first case, the prepared bars are glued sideways - this method is called gluing into the face. Knotless cages are made from short bars, which are glued together with their ends - into a microthorn (looks like a comb).

How to calculate casing / opening size

Let's say that you want to install a plastic window measuring 1 meter in width and 1.2 meters in height in a log house with a wall thickness of 150 mm. At the same time, only technical openings were cut in your house. Let's count.

First, you need to decide on the type and thickness of the casing. For the selected conditions, the casing with a T profile, type-adhesive "in the face", with a thickness of 55 mm, is excellent. The sill will be plastic, which means that the lower part of the casing can be taken with a smaller thickness - 45 mm.

If the frame is installed without a quarter (on a plane), then the width of the cut-out opening should be 15 cm greater than the frame width (1.5 cm for foam, 0.5 for jute, 55 for a riser). The final width of the opening is 115 cm.

With a quarter, the width of the opening will be +12 cm, the total will be 112 cm.

What happens if the openings are left WITHOUT casing?

Answers to the most frequently asked questions

Regardless of the manufacturing technique, the main parts of the frame are.

Vershnik. Its purpose is to keep the upper ends of the sidewalls in a static position. It is essentially a horizontal casing strut. At the same time it provides a shrinkage gap in which the sealing material is inserted.
Threshold. The lower part of the squash. In window openings, this is a window sill. It solves a problem similar to that for the top, but it is this element that has the maximum load, and therefore great importance is attached to its strength.
Sidewalls (carriages). Vertical casing elements installed on the sides of the opening. The function is to ensure the "sliding" of the walls of the house (up / down) when the wood shrinks.

Varieties of casing

From an array

The box, made of solid wood, is characterized by increased strength, retains the texture of the material. Depending on the specifics of the installation, two modifications are distinguished: "into the deck" has a groove in the form of the letter "P", "into a thorn" - with a section in the shape of "T". Despite the advantages of these types of casing, their significant disadvantage is the complexity of manufacturing. In order for a jamb in a wooden house to effectively perform its function, an accurate fit of all grooves and ridges is necessary in size. In addition, a special tool (for example, a milling cutter, a circular saw, a chain saw) will be needed to sample material, grind protrusions; it is quite difficult to achieve the desired result with the help of an ordinary household one.

Note. There is one more type of casing "in a thorn" - with a slope. The difference is that the box is not a composite one, from separate elements, but one-piece. That is, this is a ready-made box with protrusions; it is assembled in the opening. Typically for installing doors. But only a professional can make it, since a high precision of fitting is required.

"Fastening block"

The most practical option, simple and convenient for self-assembly. The peculiarity of installing a box of this type is that you can use trimming of lumber. You just need to pick up the bars of an acceptable section, grind them and cut out the corresponding grooves in the wall opening (on the sides and bottom). These component parts of the frame are laid inside the recesses and serve as a support for the finishing board.

The figures show typical drawings that give a general understanding of the design features of the window. Its exact dimensions are determined based on the parameters of a particular opening.

Recommendation. The casing for the window block is done with or without sampling. The first option is for wooden houses, if additional finishing is not expected. The second is suitable for old buildings, the appearance of which requires renovation (outside, inside).

Casing design and value

Casing casings or casings are available in all door and window openings in timber houses. Everyone already knows that such houses have a peculiarity, namely, over time, when the wood dries, the house "shrinks". If you glaze them without a pre-installed casing, then after a certain period of time the glasses will simply burst, since the wooden wall will sag slightly. To prevent this from happening, a siege is necessary. Its installation will not take much time, but the benefits of its installation will be significant.

A cage is a box for openings that is mounted without fastening: polyurethane foam, nails or other types of fastening are not used. The casing is mounted using protrusions and grooves that will allow the box to "sit down" with the house, while not harming the glass. She, of course, will not be able to stop the shrinkage process, but will be able to prevent its possible negative impact on the entire house as a whole.

The casing is fixed in two options:

On the sides of the opening, grooves are cut out where a timber bar is installed. The timber is fastened with self-tapping screws and it is important here that the fastening elements are not attached to the wall. During the shrinkage of the building, the cage along with the house will go down along the grooves, while the window structure and glass of wooden windows will not be damaged. This option is quite simple and has been used by builders for a long time.
Another option for mounting the casing is fastening with a thorn. In principle, it differs little from the first method, the only difference is that a special ledge is cut out on the sides of the door or window openings. The casing itself is placed on this ledge.

If you decide to order a casing, then it must be installed in any type of timber houses and it is necessary to think over the method of its installation even during the design. It is imperative to lay a layer of insulation material between the casing and the ledge. It is not easy for a non-specialist to understand all these subtleties, but in principle it is possible.

Our company offers its customers custom-made casing. You can order a standard casing, but you can also make an order specifically for the size you need. In any case, the siege will be ready on time and very high quality.

Casing options for which you can order from us:

Rough shedding. Suitable for houses in which finishing work will be carried out in the future. It is made of solid pine, 1 running meter costs from 160 rubles For example, a shedding for a window opening, the dimensions of which are 1.2x1.2 m, will cost 1480 rubles. (installation is not included).

The planting is final. Further finishing is not required. It is made of solid pine, they cost from 310 rubles. For a window opening, the size of which is 1.2x1.2 m - 2758 rubles. (Installation is not taken into account).

Siege of the euro option. No finishing required. The price of the casing is offered from 461 rubles, the type of manufacture is glue made of solid pine slats. For a window opening, the size of which is 1.2x1.2 m, the price is 4155 rubles (installation is not taken into account).

Power casing - more than 90 mm thick. The method of making such a casing is glue. Such a casing is installed under arches, balcony blocks, large panoramic window structures, swing doors, gates. Prices for such casing - from 905 rubles, is made of glued pine wood. For a window block measuring 1.2x1.2 m, the cage will cost 5200 rubles.

Casing of a combined type. This type of casing is new, designed by specialists of our company. The product itself is made of pine (solid wood), and the upper layer is made of a type-setting adhesive board. The slab is made at the request of the customer from beech, oak, pine or valuable wood. combined type are strictly individual.

The casing is arched. The casing is made of pine (solid wood) and a block of glue type. The casing price, as well as the production time, is offered strictly individually for each order.

Cage for self-assembly. Having a set with a cut corner available, the casing can be made independently. We manufacture products, so you can order casing according to your size. Casing corner joints can be of two different types

Casing options

Which casing to choose?

Many of our clients ask the same question: “Which siege is better? solid wood or glued boarding? "
Glued casing has a number of advantages over solid casing:

Advantages of glued casing:

This type of casing is not subject to changes in geometry during operation;
Withstands significantly higher loads (pressure, compression, bending, crushing);
Lack of defects: cracks, "tobacco knots", resin pockets;
Does not rot and is not afraid of insects;
Has a smooth finish casing slope, ready for painting;
The ability to combine the bottom deck and the window sill into one product.

Disadvantages of glued casing:Non-uniform fiber structure of glued lamellas.

Advantages of solid pine casing:

The integrity of the wood species;
The integrity of the structure and design of the tree;
Cheapness in relation to laminated veneer lumber casing.

Disadvantages of solid casing:

Drying cracking;
Limited board width for manufacturing;
Requires additional processing (fire-biosecurity);
Possibility of defects: cracks, "tobacco knots", tar pockets.

Photo report on the production of a finishing cut

The work was carried out in a log house that had settled for a year. We used a purchased kiln-dried timber and the remnants of the construction profiled, which dried together with the house for a year. The cage is monolithic U-shaped. The spike is about 45 mm wide. This distance remains if you make a cut with a circular saw on both sides of the wall. In order not to modify it later with a chain saw, it was decided to make the spike wider. Its height is 35 mm. A spike under the bottom / sill is 1 cm high. Its task is to prevent a draft.

We start by preparing the openings. First, with a circular saw, cuts were made in the side planes of the walls. There were no problems with vertical cutting, and with horizontal cutting the saw tried to go up and down all the time. Be careful in this part.

First, make circular cuts on the walls

We also repeat outside

Strictly control the position of the saw when cutting horizontally

Then we take the chain saw and modify the spike. This is the most responsible and delicate job. We make the first pass from top to bottom. Its depth is only 1-2 cm. All subsequent ones are from bottom to top, gradually increasing the depth. In order not to screw up, we used a step-by-step algorithm: first, they made a cut with a circular saw, stepping back from the cut, cut 0.5-1 centimeter with a chain saw, and brought it to the required depth with a grinder and a plane. Long, but reliable.

Cut out carefully so as not to cut the thorn

These influxes must be removed

The opening is ready. We start manufacturing the casing. The first is to make the lower 0-window sill. We make a groove in it with a depth of 10 * 45 mm. Also, do not forget about the ledges: the window sill should "go" to the wall.

Made a groove

These are the sidewalls

This is how it looks almost installed

Now we make the sidewalls. They are from a bar 200 * 100 mm. It was fitted to the size and sanded. The groove was molded using a router. It could have been done with a circular saw - it would have been faster, but less accurate.

The groove was cut with a router

After the circular saw, a quarter is made - its size is 70-30 mm.

Already finished and not yet a quarter

Next, you need to cut out the locks. On the sidewalls, those that go to the bottom are simple. All you need is to cut off 20-40 mm from three sides. If, like me, there is a quarter, then on this side we cut out less by the depth of a quarter, i.e. cut out 10 mm (40 mm - 30 mm \u003d 10 mm). So the thorn is ready.

Lower lock

Next, put it on the bottom, outline the outline with a pencil, delete all unnecessary. The castle is ready. Having put everything in place, we see pretty decent cracks. Now the task is to bring them to a minimum by means of gradual adjustment. The main thing here is not to cut off the excess, since it is impossible to build up. Therefore, we gradually grind and try on, grind and try on.

We achieve minimal gaps

When the bottom locks are ready and fit, the sidewalls can be trimmed. They should not reach the top of the opening by 6 cm. With this calculation, we cut it off.

We do the top itself in the same way as the side racks, then we cut out a quarter in it. You will have to tinker with the lock. There are two conditions:

The distance above should be the same as below. We adjust all spike sizes based on this postulate.
Then we also outline it, but the shape is much more complicated here. It is advisable to cut it out so that there are no through connections, so that it is not possible for air to freely enter from the street.

Therefore, we make stepped cuts.

Spike and mating shape at the top

Another angle

This is how it looks when folded.

When the shape is ready, the sanding fit starts again. We work gradually, unhurriedly. When the desired result is achieved, we disassemble the box, grind it, round the edges. In general, we bring beauty.

Here is the final version

After sanding, we cover all parts (including openings) with antiseptics. After drying, the casing elements can be painted in the desired color. In any case, you can go through the paint once.

While everything is drying, we put a jute tape in the opening. There is no tape for the entire width of the casing; it was laid in two parts with an overlap in the area of \u200b\u200bthe spike. Apply a layer of sealant on top of the insulation.

Apply a layer of sealant

First, the bottom was laid (it was not possible to put it on the jute - it rips off during installation, but the voids were filled later). The sides sat down, but with difficulty. But the upper part did not fit at all.

The upper part could not be installed

We take a spacer, first we put it obliquely, then with a hammer - more horizontally. The sides are moving a little. As a result of these manipulations, the upper part also sat in place.

After installing the strut "sat down" and the upper part of the casing

So that it does not budge, we install wedges. They are removed after the installation of window or door blocks. Here's what happened as a result.

The main stages of making a window

Opening cut

First, it is necessary to clarify the size of the opening and its distance from the floor. Typically, this distance ranges from 80 to 90 centimeters. When determining this distance, it is necessary to take into account the growth of future residents.

Then they make markings using special construction tools (plumb line and level). In this case, the dimensions of the opening must be larger than the dimensions of the window structure, due to the fact that there must be shrinkage (compensation) gaps from 40 to 60 millimeters above the casing. Next, the opening is cut.

Opening preparation

This stage involves the manufacture of a groove (or a ridge), taking into account the technology of the cutting.

Production and installation of a box

This stage is carried out based on the specifics of the production of various types of ossicles Because different technologies have different rules and manufacturing sequence.

Direct window installation

It is important to know that the installation of a jamb in a wooden house is installed in the event that the house is not older than ten years. It is possible to install a window with your own hands, but for this you need to acquire certain knowledge and skills

general information

For the manufacture of the casing, wood is taken with a moisture content of at least 12% - too dry material cracks under mechanical stress.
The width of the window must correspond to the thickness of the walls, but for this parameter there is a recommended limit - no more than 25 (± 1) cm. The reason is the same - the risk of wood splitting.
When installing the casing, traditional fastening and fixing elements in the form of brackets, nails, self-tapping screws, spacer wedges are not used (only in certain cases, during assembly). It is not recommended to use for sealing gaps and polyurethane foam. It has an adhesive property, therefore, the mobility of lumber (logs, beams) of the walls and casing relative to each other is excluded. This means that the meaning of installation in the opening of the support box is lost.
Before installing the casing, it is necessary to measure the opening. If the window (door) unit has already been made or selected in a furniture showroom, then the reference point is its dimensions. The thickness of the board is added to them, and this, with a small gap for insulation, corresponds to the required parameters of the opening. As a rule, its slight expansion in a wooden house does not cause difficulties. If necessary, narrowing the opening a little is enough to increase the thickness of the casing board.
A gap of about 5 mm is left between the upper element of the window and the ordinary log (bar). It is called shrinkage, and it serves to lay insulation and prevent the destruction of the structure due to deformation of the wood.

Casing manufacturing

The casing box consists of two sidewalls (side racks), the top - the top board and the window sill or threshold (also called the bottom). I must say that the lower part is not always present: in interior doors it is often not done. In some cases (when installing PVC windows, for example), it is not a window sill that is made, but simply a lower mortgage board, to which a "regular" window sill is then attached.

Also note that the tip does not rest against the top edge of a window or doorway. A gap of 5-7 cm remains between them - for the shrinkage of the log house

This gap is then filled with insulation and closed with platbands, finishing materials.

What the casing box consists of

Most of the questions arise when forming the locks necessary for joining the casing parts. These elements are especially difficult when sampling a quarter is required. It is difficult to explain in words, here are the drawings. Consider them, you can understand what for what. But the final understanding will come in the process: when you put the bottom and attach the side racks. They are outlined with a pencil, then gradually cut out

In this process, it is important not to cut off the excess - it will not work to grow and there will be ugly cracks.

Drawings of casing locks / okosyachki

Before installing the casing, the window / doorway is treated with an antiseptic. Then two layers of insulation are laid. The construction is "put on" on it. The procedure for assembling the casing on the windows is as follows:

The lower part is installed.
Put two sidewalls, check the accuracy of the locks match. Tap well on the sides.
Place the top. Often he "does not climb" - the racks are closer than necessary. Don't grab the saw right away. Take the spacers of the length that the opening should be, and with their help bring the window to the required dimensions. First, put it obliquely, then, knocking out, align. The sidewalls crush the insulation and take the required position. After that, the topper falls into place.

Okosyachka log house

It is made separately for each of the openings of the log house. As in a log building, the installation does without screws, nails, and other extraneous elements. But for maximum sealing of the room, laying insulation between the log and the frame, on the contrary, is required.

For centuries, a casing manufacturing technology has been developed in Russia, which guarantees both high sound and thermal insulation properties of doors and windows, and a long service life of openings. When it is made correctly, it will last up to a hundred years.

Even when the frame shrank after two years of inactivity, then even then one cannot do without casing. Because it, guaranteeing the preservation of the original shape of the opening, makes the wall itself much more stable

But, in addition to this, it can be given the function of the external decoration of the building as an important element of it.

At present, a whole casing manufacturing industry has been established, so it will not be difficult to choose the shape and color of the casing suitable for the exterior of the structure.

Shrinkage and seasonal changes in the size of the log house

Wood is a good and environmentally friendly building material, but it has one significant drawback - its linear and volumetric dimensions are not stable and depend on the level of humidity.

In turn, the moisture content of wood changes not only over time (due to natural drying), but also depending on climatic conditions.

For a new log house, the total changes in its geometric dimensions can reach 100 - 150 mm during the initial shrinkage and up to 7-10 mm during the rest of the operation period (due to seasonal moisture fluctuations).

We emphasize right away that moisture changes in dimensions always occur, even after the end of the shrinkage period.

So that size fluctuations are not transmitted to those structural elements of the house, the dimensions of which should be unchanged, they are installed in special casing boxes, also called "casing" or "casing".

U-shaped cage for the door

The connection of the casing to the rest of the house is always sliding. That is, the logs in the log house are displaced, and the dimensions of the frame remain constant.

The basis for disputes on the topic "Do you need a window for a doorway in a wooden house?" It is assumed that when using modern methods of wood stabilization (special modes of drying, oil impregnation, etc.), seasonal fluctuations in size in a wooden house are negligible, and doors and windows can be installed in an old house without a window.

To some extent, these judgments are correct. A wooden house built from profiled or glued beams, which has undergone special drying at the factory and treated with water-repellent agents, will indeed maintain stable dimensions in the first 5-10 years.

Impregnations and protective coatings also have a certain "shelf life" and even in the instructions for their use it is written that it is necessary to renew the coating (every 3-5 years). But in practice, this requirement is rarely met, especially in cases where the log cabin is sheathed outside with clapboard.

Summarizing the above, let's summarize: the installation of doors in a wooden house without a casing can be performed only in temporary buildings, and even then, only under certain conditions, but the house for yourself and your family must be reliable and built with the installation of a casing.

Installation of a window

A window for each opening in a log house is made individually and should not interfere with the natural process of shrinkage. To do this, leave a gap of about 7 centimeters between the top of the opening and the apex.

The order of work on the installation of a window

To insulate and seal a wooden house, the space between the box and the logs is filled with insulation.

For the correct installation of the casing, the following nuances must be observed:

80 centimeters from the floor - the height at which the window opening should be cut;
A ridge or groove is cut out, depending on the type of jaw;
All construction Materials from wood they are impregnated with a special antiseptic composition;
Heat-insulating material is laid around the entire perimeter.

Care must be taken that the self-tapping screws used to assemble the casing box do not come into contact with the wall beams. Only after the installation of the window is completed, you can proceed to the interior and exterior decoration of the house. Platbands and ebb are fixed from the outside of the opening.

How a siege is set

In general terms, the process technology is as follows:

an opening is cut in the wall
a spike is formed on the sides of the opening or a groove is selected
the opening is insulated with jute tape
a wind bar is laid in the lower part of the opening and a window sill is mounted
risers are installed
mounted apex
free space above the apex is sealed with a soft insulation

Now let's take a look at the important nuances point by point:

before cutting the opening, make sure it is sized correctly again. Especially if you have already ordered windows / doors. After cutting, check the vertical and horizontal
the finished opening is impregnated with an antiseptic
jute tape is an excellent windbreak. It also further contributes to the sliding of the logs / bar inside the casing.
if you put a P-casing, then a spike is formed in the wall. Its width should be 1 cm less than the groove in the casing. If you have a T-casing, then choose a groove in the wall, the groove width is 1 cm wider than the width of the spike in the casing. This centimeter is needed for laying 2 layers of jute tape.
use a construction stapler to secure the jute in the opening
at the bottom of the opening, 1 layer of jute is laid, then a wind bar is mounted, then another 1 layer of jute.
casing parts are connected to each other in a self-wedging lock, additionally can be fixed with a sealant

For clarity, we have prepared a video where all stages of the installation of the window are visible in detail:

It is better to entrust the installation of the casing to professionals. But if you are confident in your abilities, then you can do everything yourself. For handy owners, we have prepared a special offer - ready-made casing for self-installation (your size, with cut corners).

Differences in the installation of door and window casing

The door casing may be missing the lower part - the threshold. In this case, the bottom of the risers is bolted to the bottom rim / bar.

In the window casing, the lower part is always present. But it may look different. The following options are possible:

the bottom is not visible in the rough casing. The windowsill is usually plastic, in the color of the frame.
in the finishing / euro-garden, the lower part serves as a window sill. In this case, the cage can push into the room and to the sides of the openings, forming the so-called ears.

The video captures the entire process of installing the door casing in a log house (T-type, with the formation of a spike in the wall):

The technology for installing casing in a log or log house is the same.

Casing manufacturing

Pine wood is most often used, as the most common and inexpensive. Spruce is also used. Exclusive is also possible - cedar, larch, Karelian pine, KELO rusk.

The basis for the solid casing is a carriage with a thickness of 50 mm and more. For P-casing, take a carriage from 90 mm. The casing width is equal to the wall thickness.

How to calculate casing / opening size

With a quarter, the width of the opening will be +12 cm, the total will be 112 cm.

In height, calculate so that there is 9-12 cm of free space above the top. If you think that 10 cm is a lot, check out the photo report “Casing Test Drive: One Year Later”.

What happens if the openings are left WITHOUT casing?

This is possible, but windows / doors installed in this way will not function normally for long. Why, why and how - read in a separate article -.

Okosyachka is of two types: U-shaped and T-shaped.

	P - shaped window manufactured as follows. At the ends of the window openings, it is necessary to make a ridge (spike), which will become a guide for the casing. Grooves are made on the sidewalls (usually 50x40mm) and gaps are left.

	T - shaped window assumes initially the execution of the sidewalls of the box with a spike to get a one-piece structure. Then the sidewalls are inserted into the ready-made grooves at the ends of the openings.

Before installing the casing, the opening must be carefully prepared - cut out a ridge or groove and treat it with an antiseptic. You can buy casing (okosyachka) of both types from us. We produce glued casing, during operation it can withstand heavy loads, is not subject to change under the influence of various factors, and after installation, it is immediately ready for painting. Our craftsmen perform all types of work on preparing a wooden house from a bar for the installation of the casing and make its installation.

The cost of a box is made up of the size and type of material from which it will be made. The approximate production time for the casing is 10-15 days, depending on the volume of the order. All work on the manufacture and installation of the casing is carried out by highly qualified craftsmen. We guarantee quality work done on time. Do not neglect the installation of a real high-quality casing of windows and doors. Now there are ways to do without casing, for example, a regular board with a foundation block. However, there is no guarantee that this will not lead to deformation of wood or installed doors and windows, including plastic ones. It is better to initially perform all work on the construction of a house with high quality, so that later you do not waste time and money on correcting problems that have arisen during the operation.

What affects the casing price

1. Wall thickness: wooden houses are built from logs and beams, so the wall thickness can be from 140 to 300 mm. The dimensions of the details of the window in width correspond to the walls of the house, or slightly exceed it. You also need to consider the width of the window sill.

2. The size of the opening: the larger the opening, the more material will be required for the manufacture of the window and the time for work. The shape of the opening also affects the price of the casing: a standard rectangular design or a complex polygonal design.

3. Quality of a wooden house: if the walls are assembled without connecting elements, the curvature of the walls occurs in the cut openings. Then you have to additionally straighten the walls, which leads to additional costs.

Houses from a bar are assembled on nails, which meet at 300 mm. Because of this, additional funds and time are required to sharpen chains for a chainsaw or buy new ones.

Types of jobs

Array: all parts are manufactured using solid wood processing, maintaining the correct wood texture.

Sticky: details of such a casing are made from a type-glue board. It is glued into a microthorn on all four sides. In this case, knots and resin pockets are cut out completely.

Combined - This is the most common type of casing. The top and risers are made of solid pine. And the window sill is made of an adhesive board. All of it has a final appearance and after installation it needs to be painted and varnished.

The window frames are made to fit each window or door individually. When placing an order, the customer must know which windows and doors will be installed in the future casing. It can be made as with a sample for a window - this option is used in cases when the house will not be finished with external and internal finishing, the walls of a bar or rounded logs remain intact.

It is important!

The option without sampling is used in cases where the house is planned for interior and exterior decoration in the future. This version of the window can be fine and rough (if it closes completely during future finishing).

The okosyachka can be either a standard shape - a rectangle or non-standard shapes

Trapezoids, polygons, balcony blocks. There are drawbacks to non-standard forms, but there are ways to avoid them. Such information is discussed with the measurer at the facility.

The okosyachka can be either a standard shape - a rectangle or non-standard shapes. Trapezoids, polygons, balcony blocks. There are drawbacks to non-standard forms, but there are ways to avoid them. Such information is discussed with the measurer at the facility.

Types of pigs and features of their device

The siege can be done in four different ways:

in the mortgage bar - when a groove is selected in the wall of the house, into which the bar is inserted, and a box of boards is attached on top;

into a monolith thorn or a T-shaped window - when a sawn T-shaped board is inserted into the selected groove;

in a deck or a U-shaped cage - when a U-shaped monolithic bar is put on a sawn thorn;

finishing casing - similar to casing in the embedded block, but instead of a flat board, an L-shaped one is used.

The most reliable are monolithic - T-shaped and U-shaped windows. They are able to withstand the deformation of walls made of timber, in contrast to conventional swarms.

In recent years, the reverse quarter siege has become increasingly popular.

This allows windows to be flush with the outside wall, increasing the sill and not worrying about slopes.

Features of the casing device for an adjacent window opening with a balcony door

The sidewall of the balcony door adjacent to it will have, respectively, a U-shape, and when combined, they will be able to slide relative to each other without deforming the entire opening.

You will also have to leave a different deformation gap - a smaller one above the window, and a larger one above the door, respectively.

After the final shrinkage of the house, the gaps will be leveled. But even if not, it is better than filling the gap under the window with foam, which can rise with the door.

Casing boxes grade A / Improved sorting, fewer knots

Each lamella is sorted into the smallest number of knots before gluing. Natural defects are sealed in order to obtain the best quality on the visible part of the product.

	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	9	10	11	12	13	14	15	16	17	18	19
Width, mm	100	120	140	150	160	180	200	220	240	250	270	280	300	325	340	350	360	400	450
Thickness 65 mm, rub / l.m.	363	435	508	543	580	653	725	798	870	908	980	1015	1088	1178	1233	1270	1305	1450	1633
Thickness 90 mm, rub / l.m.	503	603	703	753	805	903	1005	1105	1205	1255	1355	1408	1508	1633	1708	1758	1808	2010	2260
Thickness 140 mm, rub / l.m.	780	938	1093	1173	1250	1408	1563	1718	1875	1953	2110	2188	2343	2540	2655	2735	2813	3125	3515

Do-it-yourself installation of a window in a log house

Depending on the selected type of casing, the method of its installation is also different. There are only a few general rules:

3-5 cm of deformation gap is left between the top and the edge of the window opening, which is filled with mineral insulation or jute linen, but in no case with mounting foam. The latter, after hardening, will transfer pressure to the window frame, thereby leveling the entire effect of the gap.

The bottom plate can be combined with the window sill, reducing the effort of installing windows.

A jute canvas is laid between the window and the walls, which is fixed with a construction stapler.

Seams between casing elements can be sealed with sealant.

All fresh cuts must be treated with a special antiseptic.

The general plan for the assembly of the casing includes marking and cutting out the opening with a mandatory level check, cutting out spikes or grooves in the walls, marking and fitting the jambs and their final installation in the opening.

Window locks are made in such a way as to minimize the penetration of cold air. The manufacturing process of all key elements is shown in great detail in the video:

T-shaped window

Quite a simple and reliable version of the window is T-shaped. Suitable even for beginner amateur carpenters. It is installed in several stages:

Monolithic T-shaped sidewalls with a 5x5 cm spike are cut. The width of the sidewalls should be equal to the thickness of the walls.

The groove for the sidewall spike is marked and selected. This can be done with a hand-held circular saw or a chain saw. A firm hand is very important for working with a chainsaw, as the saw is quite strong, especially when cutting horizontally.

It is better to make the groove 5 mm larger than the spike both in depth and in width - for laying jute and compensating for possible irregularities when cutting.
The bottom, aka the window sill, is made with a groove for a wind spike.

Knots are marked and cut out, the simplest option is a thorn-groove. Checking and fitting is carried out without installation in the window opening.

First, the bottom is laid, the sidewalls are placed on it, and the top is fixed last. All elements should fit snugly, and be inserted into the grooves with little effort.

U-shaped cage with reverse quarter

In this case, everything starts with marking and cutting a 5x5 cm spike on the walls.

A groove on the sidewalls is selected. The easiest way to do this is with a hand router. It also needs to be made 5 mm larger, because no one is immune from irregularities in the sampling process.

The reverse quarter is removed and the grooves for the lower locks are selected.

After fitting, you can proceed to the top and upper locks. First, the reverse quarter on the top is removed, then the locks are selected.

Once fitted, all elements should fit snugly but effortlessly. With effort, they will need to be inserted after laying the jute.
If the casing is fine, that is, it will not be covered with platbands, after preliminary fitting it must be sanded.

Having no experience of such work, it is better to first practice at a small facility - a bathhouse or a summer kitchen. And then your wooden house will turn out to be really warm and reliable!

Plastic window

If you want to install plastic windows, then when making a window, you will have to face some differences from a similar arrangement for wooden glazing. When you prepare the opening, then you should consider that:

it should be 14 cm larger than the window frame;
when the gap is calculated, you will need to take into account the parameters of the seams and the casing itself, and, of course, the percentage of shrinkage of the constructed building.

Cage with a ridge, carriage and grooves for a plastic window

So, the process itself:

for the base of the carriage with a groove, a comb is cut out from the end of the opening - when the shrinkage process takes place, the logs or beams will go down along this groove inside the carriage. Thus, you can avoid vertical pressure during shrinkage;
to make a carriage, a 100 × 150 mm beam should be used, in which a groove is cut out in the middle (the comb is put on it);
the width and depth of the ridge made should be 5 cm each, but the size of the carriage should be 5 cm larger than the size of the horse;

All marking should be done using a building level, and cutting is best done with a chainsaw - proven by experience!

Casing assembly is a simple matter

the upper horizontal crossbar of the jig is made of a 40 × 150 mm board, where on each side you need to cut out the grooves for laying the ridge;
after that it is put on the combs and put on;
when carriages are already installed on the sides, be sure to fix the upper crossbar with self-tapping screws;
after installation, you will need to be sure to dig in all the gaps with linen fiber or jute.

Types of window frames for doors

Consider what types of casing for doors in a wooden house are in terms of labor costs and cost, since it is from this perspective that most builders who are faced with the need to make a jamb are considering this issue.

Embedded timber

The fastest and cheapest way to prepare a mounting place for wooden or metal doors is to use a jamb in a mortgage beam.

In this case, the power frame is made of a conventional rectangular bar and is laid in the grooves punched in the ends of the openings.

The height of the casing frame under the doorframe should always be less than the opening by the shrinkage height of the frame (that is, by 60-100 mm).

The beams are laid in the groove on a soft fiber seal (jute tape or linen). No additional fastening is required - the frame must move freely in the grooves.

This technology is especially convenient in a log house, where the logs can be supplied with ready-made grooves in the ends.

But since the door frame must be installed only within the casing frame - and its thickness is only 50-70 mm - this scheme is rarely used for installing external doors. The optimal area of \u200b\u200bapplication of the casing in the embedded beam is the window for interior doors.

Ossyachka in a monolithic thorn

In practice, a T-shaped casing in a monolithic spike is used to install wooden and metal doors. The difference from the previous version lies in the fact that the end of the opening is closed with a solid board, rigidly connected to the spike.

The general structure of the T-shaped casing frame consists of the same elements: two vertical jambs, an upper crossbar ("top") and a lower crossbar ("bottom"). All these elements will be connected without rigid fixation, but with the creation of a stop in the vertical and horizontal directions.

Ideally, the entire vertical T-strut is constructed from a single piece of timber. But in order to reduce its cost, the use of glued structural elements is allowed.

Pay attention to a common mistake when assembling a box into a thorn: to reduce its cost, the thorn and the frame are made from different boards, and then connected with self-tapping screws. This cannot be done, since such a connection does not provide adequate thermal protection, which after a short time will be expressed in drafts and freezing

If, nevertheless, it is decided to use a prefabricated structure of vertical racks, then it is better to put the spike on the side of the frame in the groove and glue it, although this is also not a universal solution, since this design requires special glue and special conditions for its polymerization.

Seed in the deck

Thorn for U-shaped casing

The most expensive and, at the same time, the most reliable way to equip a power frame when installing doors is to use a finishing casing in a log ("U-shaped casing").

In this version, a thorn-groove connection is also used, but the end of the log house is turned on the thorn, and a groove is cut in the vertical jambs.

In this case, the vertical and horizontal crossbeams of the casing are made in such a way that after installing the frame there is no need for finishing operations. A quarter is selected for the installation of the door frame from the outside of the frame.

The advantages and disadvantages of each type of casing can be found in the article.

Casing purposes

An important element for the construction of window and doorways in wooden houses is casing, casing boxes.

Wooden walls dry out in the process of moisture loss and lose 3-5% of their height. Shrinkage of the walls occurs.

This phenomenon actively proceeds during the first 4 years after the construction of the building. When walls shrink in houses made of logs and beams, windows and doors can be damaged. Or it will twist and jam. To preserve their original appearance and functionality, giving rigidity and strength to the window and doorway, casing is mounted.

The casing is made of dry wood, most often pine or larch. The wall thickness corresponds to the depth of the casing, into which the window will be installed. A gap (clearance) is left above the casing, which compensates for the shrinkage of the wall.

Casing layout and sections. Basic structural elements

The thorn-groove connection between the casing and the wall (in a separate version - a scraper) ensures the preservation of the wall plane in the opening, sets the direction of wall shrinkage due to wood shrinkage. In addition to the function of reinforcing openings, it is an important element for fastening window and door units.

The casing is a finished product - no additional finishing required. It is enough to apply a protective coating and mount the window.

Casing boxes allow installing any windows and doors in openings, from a variety of materials and of any size. Installation of PVC plastic windows, which are so widely used in multi-apartment city and individual country houses, also requires preliminary installation of casing boxes. It is only necessary to compare the dimensions of the casing and the wall.

What will happen if windows and doors in a wooden house are installed immediately and without a window

The formation of gaps between the crowns of the frame.
Curved walls in openings.
Extruding partitions between windows.

Crushed glass unit.
Permanent adjustment of the opening of the sash or complete replacement of windows that have become unusable from the shrinkage process.
Doors do not open. The incident told how the neighbors could not get into the house due to the shrinkage of the door, they just had to break it open with an ax.

Substitutes for a full-fledged window

Substitutes for a jig - a bar and a board What happens if you install windows and doors in a wooden house on a bar and a board? In our time, unfortunately, it has become just a traditional window. Where it leads? This is a direct road to unnecessary rework costs. Here is an example of alteration of such a "box".

Even a double beam 100x50 mm could not withstand the pressure and twisted. Only solid wood parts can support this load.

Fake jigs or Koekaker

There is also a fake jail. They propose to install a box from an array - the parts are solid, not spliced. But in fact, bars are screwed to the decks and passed off as an array.

The owner will not see everything exactly. And it is unlikely to disassemble. Unfortunately, there are coekakers among us. Everyone does it somehow. And they do well with a lot of resistance and tension from the client or employer.

In relation to work, the main difference between the work of a foreman and hired workers lies!

Terminology

Before starting the review, we will explain what a siege is, as well as the meaning of the main terms used in the description of structures and assembly technologies. This must be done, since the literal meanings of some of them in the modern interpretation have a different meaning.

"Shedding" (or, equivalently, "okosyachka") - a door or window frame that protects the door structure or a window opening in a wooden house from shrinkage displacements of the log house.
"Vershnik" - the upper bar of the casing frame.
"Nizhnik" - the lower strip of the casing frame. In fact, it is a window sill or threshold. Not used in some cases.
Bottom and top
"Vertical jamb" - side racks of the casing cover.
"Casing in a log" - a technology for installing a casing frame, when the vertical joint covers the entire end of the log house.
"Thorn sowing" - the method of jamb, when the vertical jamb is installed in the frame through a pair of thorn and groove.
"Shrinkage groove" - \u200b\u200ba cut in a log house, into which a sealant and a vertical jamb groove are installed.
"Sealing the shrinkage groove" - \u200b\u200binstallation of a seal between the uprights and the shrinkage groove.

Types of jobs

Experts identify three types of casing manufacturing:

massive;
glue;
combined.

First type of work means processing solid wood while maintaining the desired wood structure.

Glue look involves the execution of a casing from a type-glue board: it is glued into a microthorn on all four sides of the opening. Knots and resin pockets must be cut out completely.

Combined method is the most common type of work. When using this method, the top and risers are made from an array of conifers. A window sill or threshold is made of a type-glue board. All of it has a final look and after installation only needs paintwork.

The window is always made according to the dimensions of each opening separately.

When placing an order, you need to know exactly which windows and doors will subsequently be installed in the future casing.

The structure can be made:

with selection under the window;
no selection under the window.

The first option is used in cases where it is not planned to carry out work on the exterior and interior decoration in the building, and the walls will remain intact.

If finishing work is carried out in the house, then the option without sampling will be optimal. This type of jar can be either fine or rough, if the future finish completely covers the casing.

Among other things, casing can be made of any shape. In standard situations, the jar has a rectangular shape, but sometimes it is required to manufacture a non-standard casing in the form of a polygon, trapezoid or balcony blocks. The non-standard format has its drawbacks, but with a competent approach, they can be avoided.

All of the above information is discussed with the measurer during the visit to the facility.

Making a jig

Making a jamb from an array with your own hands is possible! This requires a number of hand tools and the ability to work with them. It is much more difficult to properly prepare and dry the casing material.

The same work on the production of a jar, performed on production equipment, will take much less time and will give a better result. Making a glued window at home, without special equipment, is impossible.

It is also not a good idea to buy a glued material, for example a furniture board or a string of stairs, and use it to produce casing. The glue used in the manufacture of such products is not intended for use in places of constant high loads and aggressive environment (heat-cold).

To perform these works, a glued load-bearing beam is ideal, but due to the high cost of such material and a large number of scraps, the price of blanks is higher than just buying a ready-made jig from the manufacturer.

What is it for

The sage is an integral element of wooden architecture and has been used in construction by craftsmen since ancient times.

As practice shows, the refusal to use a box leads to disruption of the functioning of the openings, as well as to serious heat loss due to the formation of cracks and gaps between logs and frames.

Thanks to the hinge, the side logs or beams cannot move horizontally. In addition, the cage leaves a gap for vertical movement, thus protecting the glass from destruction.

If the gap between adjacent windows is very small, then the role of the window increases significantly.

In addition, a well-made casing significantly decorates the facade of the house.

For plastic windows

Okosyachki require not only wooden, but also plastic windows. But the whole process of installing casing for plastic windows has its own characteristics.

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the opening in advance: the window frame should be at least 14 centimeters narrower than the opening.

When calculating the size of the gap, you need to take into account the shrinkage factor of the house, the thickness of the seams and casing boards.

Then, as a base for a carriage with a groove in the end of the opening, a ridge is cut out. During shrinkage, the beams or logs will move inside the groove, due to which excessive load will be removed from the window.

It is best to choose a 150 x 100 mm bar with a groove in the middle for the carriage. In this case, the width of the groove should be five centimeters wider than the window.

Use a chainsaw to cut the comb as this will provide more precision.

For the top it is worth taking an edged board 150 x 40 millimeters, since grooves for the comb will be cut out on each side of the board.

At the end of the installation of the carriages, the top is fixed with self-tapping screws.

After assembling the jute, all gaps must be drilled and sealed with jute thread.

For doorways

As practice shows, the shedding is necessary not only where doors and windows will be installed, but also in decorative openings, since internal logs and beams are also subject to temperature fluctuations.

The design of the door window is not much different from the window one.

The top is set a couple of centimeters above the top bar or log.

In this case, the vertical sliding of the logs will be ensured by the sidewalls, which, unlike window frames, do not require insulation.

Installation of a window window in a wooden house in the video:

Casing doorways

Basically, the cutting of doorways in a wooden house practically does not differ from the cutting of window openings. You will need the same tools and materials. And the work progress is no different.

The first step is to mark the doorway and cut it out with a chainsaw. A threshold is set, which is immediately fixed with self-tapping screws. Grooves and spikes are formed - better U-shaped as they are simpler to manufacture and practically not inferior in strength and efficiency. The seal is usually laid, the side elements are installed. The last, as in the case of windows, is the top. At first glance, everything is simple. But there are certain nuances that you should be aware of. However, this also applies to window openings.

Often, when starting to cut through and make a jamb, the owner of the house has already taken care of buying a beautiful and reliable door with a jamb. Keep in mind that the door frame has a certain thickness, and, in the case of metal doors, quite massive. This must be compensated for when measuring: it is enough to make a mistake of only half a centimeter, and it will not work to insert the door frame into place.

When casing a doorway, remember that only the lower element (threshold) can be firmly fixed. Others need to leave the possibility of vertical movement. Don't worry - the shape of the doorway will not be affected. It is no coincidence that a 5 cm thick board is used for the jig - it can easily withstand a huge load. If, however, firmly fix all four elements, this can lead to their damage during the shrinkage of the house.

As you can see, the whole process is pretty straightforward.

After reading the article, you not only learned about the purpose of this important element of a wooden house, but also formed an idea of \u200b\u200bhow to make a jig. Having at hand all the necessary materials and tools, even a person who does not have experience in the field of construction will be able to cope with the task without much difficulty

The only thing he should remember is that accuracy should be maximized at each stage of installation.

Where to order a jar

Ordering a casing from the manufacturer is the right decision that will help you save time and nerves, while you can be sure of the quality of the casing and the installation work performed.

An experienced measurer will help you determine the type and section of the window for your country house; moreover, after the first measurement, the exact dimensions of the windows and doors will be known.

Having placed an order for windows and windows in one organization, you will receive a guarantee for everything from a single person. You do not have to waste time on re-measurements or wait three weeks for the production of colored windows, and in case of malfunctions, the performers will not pass the blame for the malfunction on each other.

What is a jar

Despite the emergence of new building techniques and materials, log buildings remain in demand among Russians. The thing is that such structures have undeniable advantages: from complete environmental friendliness to stunning appearance.

However, wooden houses have their own peculiarities. For example - shrinkage, as a result of which the rims are often displaced to the side. For the same reason, the height of the walls is noticeably reduced. Shrinkage is usually caused by seasonal build-up and moisture loss in the wood.

It is possible to reduce shrinkage by wintering a log house in an assembled state. It is better if the building will stand for several seasons without interior decoration.

However, shrinkage cannot be completely eliminated. Therefore, shrinkage is most reflected in window and door openings. Displacement of the logs can deform the openings so that they can not only stop opening, but also completely collapse.

The window consists of:

top;
sidewalls;
threshold (for a doorway) or window sill (for a window opening).

The width of each element almost never exceeds 25 centimeters. Of course, you can use a wider box, but this can lead to cracks along its entire length during use. Wood with a moisture content of at least 10-12 percent is used for casing.

The fact is that drier wood can have internal cracks - not visually noticeable, but capable of leading to the destruction of the box during shrinkage.

There are three types of okosyachki:

mortgage bar;
a box "in a thorn";
siege "in the stock".

The first type of siege is the cheapest and most affordable option of all. The box is made from a conventional edged board with a thickness of 30 to 50 millimeters. In the inner side of the opening, a square groove is cut out for the timber, to which the finishing board will subsequently be attached.

This type of construction is simple and quick to install, but it must be remembered that such a planting requires additional finishing of the slopes after installing the window frame.

The "in thorn" window is most often used in the construction of buildings from a profiled bar. With this method, the casing is made from a solid rectangular bar in the shape of the letter "T", while the lower part of the "letter" is subsequently inserted into the groove of the "crossbar", which is at the same time a window slope.

The most expensive option is to install the box “in the box”. Here, in the side parts of the opening, a thorn is cut out, on which a deck specially cut in the shape of the letter "P" is then placed.

The use of ordinary timber or edged board instead of these constructions is useless from the point of view of time and money, since such manipulations will inevitably lead to deformation.

The principles of installing a window in a wooden house for plastic windows in the video:

Okosyachka P-type

The classic siege, formerly called “salary”. Carved by hand from a single piece of wood. Suitable for all types of timber houses.

Technology: a thorn is formed at the end of the log, on which the vertical part of the casing with a selected groove is installed. A soft insulation is laid between them. To protect against blowing out, a wind lock is installed under the windowsill. The shrinkage gap above the upper part of the casing is laid with a soft compressible insulation.

Okosyachka T-type

This version of the bobble has appeared recently. When making house kits from a bar or rounded logs in the factory, it is easier and more profitable to choose a groove in the walls than to form a spike.

Technology: a groove is selected at the end of the logs. In the risers of the window, a groove is selected and a bar is glued into it (photo 2). The glued block is a stiffening rib, which guarantees the preservation of the casing geometry and ensures uniform wall shrinkage.

Okosyachka with PVC window sill

This option for installing a plastic window into the casing is usually used in wooden houses with intermittent heating or in buildings with high humidity. Condensation forms on the windows, and it is easier to remove water from a PVC window sill than from a wooden one.

Technology: a groove is selected in the risers and apex for installing the frame, its width depends on the width of the profile. The thickness of the top and risers in this version is not less than 85 mm. The PVC frame is installed on a support profile, the space between the substrate and the window sill is foamed. From the outside of the window, an ebb is attached to the support profile. Slope finishing is not required.

On the sample of a P-type jar, all parts of the casing are made of solid pine, the thickness of the riser is 90 mm, the substrate for the window sill is 45 mm.

Okosyachka with a wooden window sill

In this version, the use of plastic components is kept to a minimum. It can be installed in all types of wooden houses and baths. It is most often used in log houses with wall thicknesses over 250 mm.

Technology: Okosyachka fine polished. The lower part of the casing plays the role of the sill. The ebb is attached to the embedded plates hidden in the polyurethane foam, or directly to the profile with sealed seams. This option is characterized by the use of a type-glue window sill without knots, 55 mm thick.

On the sample of a P-type jig, the vertical part of the jail (riser) is made of a set-glued board, the window sill is made of solid pine (from a single piece of dry wood).

Okosyachka with a wooden window sill with access to the inside of the room

Unlike the previous version, the plastic frame is installed on a support profile, to which the ebb is attached. The use of a support profile dictates a minimum window sill thickness of 90 mm. As a rule, such a window sill is created using glue methods, sanded before installation and looks great.

On a sample of a P-type jar, a stand made of solid pine, a set-adhesive window sill.

Window for finishing openings with PVC panels and PVC window sill

This option has become widespread in houses where wall decoration with decorative panels is used. The sample shows a T-type box, all parts of which are made of solid pine.

In conclusion, I must tell you that the shown casing installation options are just a small part of the applied design solutions. What is best for your case, our specialist will tell you after leaving the site.

When ordering from us, the guarantee remains in full.

Installation of casing in a log house

The installation of the casing box should take place so that in the future nothing will interfere with the shrinkage of the house. To do this, leave a gap of approximately 4 cm between the casing and the top crown. During the shrinking process, this gap will gradually decrease. To prevent pressure on windows and doors, special grooves are made on the sides of the casing, which ensure its sliding. These techniques prevent deformation of the house, window structures, canvases.

Okosyachki must be treated with special antiseptic solutions, and the gaps must be insulated with jute, tow or other materials.

Casing cost

The cost of manufacturing the casing depends on the following factors:
1. The shape of the casing (casing box) is straight or trapezoidal;
2. Casing material (glued casing or solid wood):
3. Overall dimensions: Height, width, thickness of the window or door opening;
4. Wood species (pine or larch)
5. Finishing or rough cutting
You can calculate your casing using our calculator!

Casing types (okosyachki):

Cage in a mortgage bar (rough cut)
	Casing in a foundation block or Roughing casing is the simplest of the casing options, it is used in those houses in which additional wall decoration is planned in the future. When installing a rough window for a window or door opening, a groove is cut out for a bar of 50 mm x 50 mm in the side vertical parts of the opening To insulate the connection, flax or jute is laid in the cut groove, after which a bar is placed in the groove. IMPORTANT - the bar is installed in the groove without fixing !!! ... Further, a casing board 200 * 50 mm is attached to the bar on self-tapping screws Further, a casing board 200 * 50 mm is attached to the bar on self-tapping screws When installing the casing "in a foundation block", a fine wooden window sill is not used, a rough casing is made of 3 parts - 2 side posts and 1 top.
Finishing T-shaped casing (thorn-monolith)
	The variant of the T-shaped installation of the casing appeared not so long ago, the initiator of this method of installing the casing are factories, manufacturers of "prefabricated houses" from a bar or log. The fact is that in production it is easier and more cost effective to choose a groove (notch) in the walls than to form a spike (protrusion). The “thorn-monolith” casing technology is made using specially made glued beams, depending on the wall thickness, the beam width can vary from 90mm to 100mm and the width from 150 to 300mm. The bar is milled in a special way so that in cross-section it has a shape similar to the letter "T". When installing the casing "in the thorn-monolith", first mount the lower part of the casing - the "window sill" in which the "locks" are cut out and the side elements of the casing "risers ", Then set upper part - "top" with pre-cut locks for side risers.
Finishing U-shaped shedding (in the deck)
	One of the most common types of casing installation! The classic type of casing that has been used for a long time, the casing was cut by craftsmen-carpenters by hand from solid wood. The log-board planting is suitable for almost all types of log or timber houses. Installation technology: A protrusion, the so-called "thorn", is cut out at the end of the wall (log / bar), after which vertical casing posts are mounted on it with a cut out recess - a "groove" along which the frame will subsequently move in the process of vertical shrinkage. When installing the casing "in the log", first, the lower part of the casing is mounted - the "window sill" in which the "locks" are cut to install the side elements of the casing ("risers"), after that the upper part - the "top" with pre-cut locks is installed in the space of the entire structure for uprights. The entire construction of the jig is assembled without a single nail or self-tapping screw! A shrinkage gap of about 5-10 cm is left in the upper part, and filled with insulation.

We are also ready to make custom-made casing, according to the customer's designs and drawings. However, before starting the manufacture of the casing, we recommend using the services of our measurers, who will professionally and competently inspect and measure the planned window openings

They will draw your attention to the intricacies in the production and installation of casing, they will prompt and advise where and how to correctly position the future window or door in your house, based on many years of experience and the foundations of a casing in wooden houses. Manufacturing of casing in our production takes about 7-14 days, that is, your order from measurement to manufacturing will be ready in at least 1 week.

Technology disruption and its consequences

Failure to follow the casing installation technique can cause unpleasant consequences for the owner of a house made of wood. They are divided into natural and artificial.

Natural include:

The appearance of gaps between the box and the logs;
Displacement of the walls between the openings of the log house;
Curvature of the log house and its walls;
Destruction of a glass unit;
The need for regular adjustment of the window opening mechanism settings;
The same violations when opening doors.

Without a window in the window, when the house shrinks, the frame and glass burst

Artificial consequences most often arise due to the installation of substitutes for a jig, which is a board or timber. Recently, such a replacement has become popular among ignorant people. Its consequence is not a forced waste of money to replace the casing structure. It should be borne in mind that only a solid structure is able to withstand the load that shrinkage has on window and door openings.

On our site you can get acquainted with companies specializing in, among the houses presented at the exhibition Low-rise Country.

What determines the price

The cost of the structure and its installation directly depends on three parameters:

from the thickness of the walls;
on the size of the opening;
from the quality of a wooden house.

Since wooden structures can be erected from a bar and a log, the thickness of their walls varies significantly - from 140 to 300 millimeters. And since the dimensions of the parts of the casing box in width must correspond to the walls of the house, then when calculating the cost of the casing, the width of the walls must also be taken into account.

The size of the opening also affects the final cost of the structure. The larger the opening, the more material will be required to make a window, which means that more time will be spent on the whole process. In addition, the cost of the casing also depends on the shape of the opening: a standard rectangular design will cost significantly less than a complex polygonal version.

As for the quality of the building, if the frame is assembled without any connecting elements, then the walls will bend in the cut openings. In this case, additional straightening of the frame will be required.

In addition, timber houses are assembled on nails, which can be up to 300 millimeters long. In such situations, additional financial support and time will be required to sharpen chains for a gasoline saw or buy new ones.

About the technological differences in casing in a wooden house in the video:

Okosyachka window openings

First, let's talk about how to make a do-it-yourself window window. The procedure is not too complicated, but here you need to do each stage as carefully as possible in order to get a result that will not disappoint the inhabitants of the house and will not cause unnecessary trouble.

As expected, the first step is measurements. A simple tape will allow you to measure boards of the desired length, and with a chainsaw you can cut material in a matter of seconds. You should be very careful to ensure that the size of the window opening clearly corresponds to the size of the window sill. Otherwise, the window opening will not look very attractive.

The window sill is laid first. Install it in the window opening, make several holes with a drill with a thin drill, and firmly pull the installed window sill to the crown of the house located under the window sill using sufficiently long and strong self-tapping screws.

The next step is to remove the side logs. The chainsaw will come to the rescue again. Some craftsmen use a hammer and a chisel for this work, but in this case the work will take an entire hour, or maybe more. Saw side logs on both sides above the windowsill.

Now you need to form a thorn. This is perhaps the most difficult stage of work.

It is necessary to very carefully file the logs on the sides of the window, removing the sidewalls and leaving only a narrow strip of several centimeters in the center. Of course, all the logs in the wall should have spikes in a single formation.

The exact same procedure must be performed on vertical jambs - cut a groove into which the previously formed thorn would fit closely. Tow is laid on the thorn - it will act as a seal. Even if the groove is several centimeters larger than the spike, or its depth exceeds the height of the spike, this will not cause problems. The okosyachka is put on a thorn - if the grooves and the thorn are made correctly and efficiently, then it will perfectly hold without additional fasteners.

The last stage is the installation of the upper part of the window - the top. It is installed by a spur, after which it is fixed with self-tapping screws. At this, the installation can be considered complete. The frame obtained after completion of the work will reliably protect the window from shrinkage at home.

Experts call the considered casing option the U-shaped technology. There is also a T-shaped one - it is a little more complicated. With it, grooves are cut into the walls of the house, and a spike is formed on the board. Their main advantage is their higher strength. But in most cases, homeowners do not plan to hit the window frame with all their might, so it makes sense to abandon the T-shaped technology.

Types of okosyachki

First, let's look at the casing profiles. Frictional fixation is provided by an elementary tongue-and-groove lock. In one case, a spike is made on the logs / beam of the opening, in the other, a groove is cut out.

A groove is selected in the opening or a spike is made

If you have a wooden bathhouse - a frame made of logs or beams, then the technology for installing windows and doors will be exactly the same as in the house. There is no difference. So everything described also applies to the bath.

Monolithic casing

The counterpart is often made from a solid piece of wood. They are also called monolithic or finishing. Depending on whether the groove is cut or a thorn, the mating part is made P or T-shaped

Please note that when installing windows or doors, the fasteners should not go into the timber / log of the wall. To ensure proper reliability, frames are fastened in the "thickest" parts of the casing

The casing is made from a bar in which a groove is selected or a spike is cut. Accordingly, the profiles of the casing / casing are P or T shaped

Casing material - monolithic or glued timber. The use of laminated veneer lumber in baths is not encouraged: when using non-moisture resistant glue (and this usually happens), the glue collapses from constant changes in humidity, the timber crumbles. Therefore, it is better to use a monolithic bar of the required size. Just note that the timber must be dry - no more than 12% moisture. Wet will crack or drive. Order a timber of the required chamber drying size at the sawmill, or dry it yourself in the shade in a draft within 4-6 months.

This type of casing is called monolithic or capital casing. It is already possible to attach a window or door frame to it. If the windows / doors are plastic, the "face" of the casing can be left flat. If you plan to install wooden products, choose a quarter for them.

For the installation of wooden windows / doors choose a quarter

Which of these two casing / casing is considered the best? Done correctly, both perform their tasks normally. Everyone chooses what is easier for him to do.

How to make a thorn on the opening

There are two options - first cut a thorn in the doorway, then make a casing block under it. The second option is to mark the spike along the finished groove. In any case, the markings are applied first.

The width and depth of the tenon should be 4-5 mm less than the dimensions of the groove. The casing is "planted" on a heater, so a place is required on it. Width is marked on the end of the logs / timber, depth - on the side surface of the walls

When marking, it is important to maintain vertical lines.

Then they take a circular or chain saw, and cuts are made according to the marks applied. At the same time, it is important to maintain the required cutting depth on the lateral surfaces and not cut off the spike at all. If you don't know how to use a chain saw, it's better to use a circular saw - you won't be able to cut very deep there.

For an example of the formation of a spike, see the video.

We make a groove in the opening

It is safer to make a groove: even if you have made too deep cuts, you can not remove the entire core, in extreme cases, you will make the spike on the jamb.

Everything is simpler here: mark the width of the groove at the end. In this case, it is 4-5 mm larger than the groove in the casing / casing. Make two cuts, and remove the middle between them. There are virtuosos who do this with a chain saw, but mostly work with an ax, then earn money with a chisel.

By ordering a jar from the Master you will receive

Sustainability

The massif is natural and ecological. Free of synthetic resins and adhesives, which are very harmful to health. And no matter what they say about the safety of modern chemicals, practice shows the opposite. Everything natural is safe.

Lifetime warranty

I boldly give a lifetime product reliability guarantee. Because it is due to the quality and compliance with the technology of manufacturing wood products. Dry material of chamber drying. Integrity of parts (not glued, not spliced, not twisted with self-tapping screws). Okosyachka is made and assembled according to old recipes.

Ancient technology

Time-tested technology. Okosyachku was made in Russia from time immemorial. It is still preserved in old houses and architectural monuments of wooden architecture (Kizhi).

Professionalism

Made by a professional master who has been constantly engaged only in cutting for 15 years, constantly improving and teaching others the skill (about us). Craftsmanship is quality. As Bruce Lee said: “I'm not afraid of a person who knows 10,000 strokes. I am afraid of a man who has trained one punch 10,000 times. "

Huge work experience

The number of objects on which I have made a window is more than 120. The number of cut openings is more than 1500. Alterations - 3. The first object (here is the history of the emergence of the master of the window) was just a storehouse of wisdom, on which the achievement of the expert state began. (“An expert is a person who made all possible mistakes in a very narrow specialty.” Niels Bohr) The second change was due to unprofessionalism and lack of experience. The third alteration was associated with carelessness and haste.

In fact, errors occur at every object. But the difference between a master and an amateur is that the master notices his mistakes and corrects them.

What is the advantage of ordering a box from a master:

First, it is possible to identify the shortcomings of the product at the stage of material procurement. The material in the drying chamber will take on a shape and size that will hardly change. Where there was tension there will be a crack. This is important for post-processing.
Secondly, the manufacture and installation of a box will cost you much less. 1m³ of dry material of chamber drying costs two thousand rubles more than material of natural moisture, only 11 tons. And this can be easily verified. There is a permanent 5% discount for my customers.
Third, the ability to control the entire process. Manufacturing of parts will be carried out directly on site after cutting and preparation of openings.
Fourth, a real master who has spent more than seventeen years will work for you.

Aspirations and reality

Of course, I adhere to the rule of working at the highest level and strive for it with all my might. But when making parts from wood with a large cross-section, it is impossible to achieve absolute accuracy for the simple reason that wood is an unstable material. It absorbs moisture directly from the air and changes its size as a result.

Here is a case study

I made a small window - the joints, "the mosquito will not undermine the nose." It took 3 weeks to prepare the windows. I came to install them. I look, there is a small crack, here it protruded a little, here it was slightly bent. These are gaps visible to the eye in the aisles of a millimeter.

That's just it. The volume of workpieces is large and the expansion of the material is large, as is the shrinkage (compression). Therefore, I think plus or minus a millimeter is quite normal. When I found out that the change in size depending on the moisture content of an ordinary edged board with a width of 150 mm reaches 7 (seven!) Millimeters, I was just shocked.

View from the outside

Moreover, visually, with such a large product as a box, it is impossible to notice. The same applies to the trims. They are always viewed in volume with the house, and no one examines them with a magnifying glass.

The window is almost completely hidden by the platbands. Only the slopes and the window sill remain. Of course, I put the greatest emphasis on the windowsill, as on the most significant detail of the window.

The process of making a jig

Final finishing of details

The final fine-tuning of the details of the jar is a two-stage grinding. The first sanding is done with an angle grinder with Velcro attachment.

First sanding

With the help of the first grinding, we remove the marks left from the legs of the movers. We remove traces of careless unloading and transportation - these are traces of small stones and other dents. The first sanding also removes the marks left by planing on the machine.

The knives in the plane are very difficult to set at the same height and therefore small ripples can be seen on the boards. Also, this trace may be due to tool wear - the shaft beats. Softwoods are softwoods and therefore planing with blunt knives will cause scoring on the knots and a rough surface. We also remove this with the first grinding.

Second grinding

The second grinding is performed with an orbital (eccentric) sander with a finer grain sandpaper. The purpose of the second sanding is to remove the marks from the first sanding. With the help of an eccentric sander, when using a sandpaper with a fine abrasive grain, you can completely smooth out all the unevenness from the first sanding.

The wood becomes silky to the touch, and the eye simply has nothing to catch on. The final finishing of the rounded parts of the window sill is done manually with fine sandpaper attached to the platform with a soft sole with clamps.

What is siege and how does it work

Construction methods and materials used are constantly updated. Despite this, wooden buildings have not lost their popularity. They have such qualities as: environmental friendliness and heat capacity, and also have an excellent appearance.

In addition to the pluses, wooden houses have some drawbacks. One of them is the constant fluctuation in the size of the "box". Even if the house no longer undergoes shrinkage, it still picks up moisture throughout the year and then releases it.

Important! Wintering is used to reduce the effects of shrinkage. Its meaning is to let the rebuilt box of the house stand under its own weight for a while.

During this time, the logs "will find their place", as the builders say, and further the shrinkage coefficient will be much lower.

However, even after wintering, the situation does not become much better and the trimming of windows and doors in log houses is still needed. In fact, this is just an additional frame, which is thus attached to the log house, so that it can be slightly moved from side to side (about 7 cm) - this is usually enough so that the deformations of the log house do not directly affect the window.

The details of the casing are a top, two side parts, as well as a window sill board or a threshold board, for a window and a door opening, respectively.

Discussion of various configurations assembled

The window and door window in a wooden house performs the following functions:

Prevents the displacement of the walls between the openings;
Reduces the risk of loss of tightness between contacting parts;
Provides good functional condition of doors and glass units, excludes their deformation and destruction;
Helps to maintain the geometry of the frame, strengthens the end part of the openings and holds the crowns, preventing them from moving.

The optimum width of the casing components is 20-25 centimeters. The use of a thinner box is not recommended, as this type of construction will be weak. In turn, exceeding 25 centimeters will lead to cracks in the wood structure. This can cause the box to collapse. For the same reasons, experts recommend using a timber with a moisture content of 10-15%.

Answers to the most frequently asked questions

Yesterday they finished installing the blockhouse. When can windows be installed?

- Windows, installed in a box, do not interfere with the shrinkage of the frame. Therefore, you can start glazing, installing doors immediately.

Is it possible to put a window on now, and windows in a month - six months.

- it is possible if, after installing the casing from the outside, close the openings with moisture insulation. Of course, the log house must be covered with a roof.

Do I need to impregnate the casing

- Yes, with antiseptic impregnations. The end of the opening is also impregnated.

How the corners of the casing are held together

- The best way to connect in a self-locking lock. Additionally, a sealant is applied to the surfaces to be fastened.

Is it possible to buy a ready-made casing and install it yourself

- Yes, we will make products according to your dimensions and cut corners.

I will have triangular windows, will you make casing?

- No problem. We install casing blocks in triangular openings, trapezoids, polygons, arches.

Why is it more expensive for you? We found the same as yours, but cheaper.

- We do not skimp on quality. When checking cheap casing, most often it turns out that they are made of a Christmas tree (we only have pine), the top and the window sill are inserted by a surprise, without fastening to the posts (we have a reliable fastening in the "dovetail", the seam is additionally fixed with a sealant). Also, the percentage of moisture content of the wood (we have a vacuum drying chamber), the quality of the insulation (quilted jute tape) differ. You can always come to our production and make sure of the quality.

The difference between manual and stationary power tools

After all, people also work at a woodworking enterprise and the only difference is in the presence of stationary machines. And what is the difference between a stationary and a hand-held power tool? Only by its immobility.

Accuracy class

According to the accuracy class of manufacturing, I divide woodwork into three categories:

- Carpentry quality. Accuracy class centimeters plus minus 10 mm.

- Joinery quality. Accuracy class millimeters. Plus minus 1 mm.

- Furniture quality. Accuracy class tenths of a millimeter. Plus minus 0.1 mm.

How is it expressed in practice

- Carpentry quality

You've probably paid attention to how you sawed the corners in the walls of the house. This is the quality of carpentry.

- Joinery quality. In carpentry, connections are quite visible and these are joinery tolerances. The joinery is the binding of wooden frames, paneled partitions, technical furniture such as a stool or bench. Carpentry also includes wooden doors, windows, window frames, planed boards and various moldings (platbands, plinths, etc.).

- Furniture quality. Accuracy class in the manufacture of furniture - the connection of parts to each other must be indistinguishable to the eye. An example is a furniture board.

And in the joinery, the connections are quite visible and these are the tolerances of the joinery.

What happens

Experts distinguish several types of worms:

rough;
finishing;
euro;
power;
combined;
arched.

Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Rough

Rough sowing is the most affordable and inexpensive option for cutting. The best option for houses with further finishing of openings.

average price per 1m.p. from 160 rubles;
material - solid pine.

For example, a cage for a window opening of 1.2 by 1.2 meters with a product size of 45 by 150 millimeters of types "T" and "P" will cost 1,480 rubles excluding the cost of installation work.

Finishing

Finishing planting is an inexpensive option for cutting and does not need subsequent finishing of the slopes.

Has the following characteristics:

average price per 1m.p. from 270 rubles;
material - solid pine.

For example, a cage for a window opening of 1.2 by 1.2 meters with a product size of 90 by 150 millimeters of type "P" will cost 2,758 rubles excluding the cost of installation work.

Eurosab

Euro-embankment is an inexpensive option for jigging and does not need subsequent finishing of the slopes.

Has the following characteristics:

average price for 1 lm. from 460 rubles;
material - glue made of solid lamellas (pine).

For example, a shedding for a window opening of 1.2 by 1.2 meters with a product size of 90 by 150 millimeters of type "P" will cost 4,155 rubles excluding the cost of installation work.

Power

Power casing is recommended for installation in arched openings, panoramic windows, balcony blocks, gates and swing doors.

Has the following characteristics:

average price for 1 lm. from 905 rubles;
material - glued pine wood.

For example, a shedding for a window opening of 1.2 by 1.2 meters with a product size of 90 by 150 millimeters will cost 5,200 rubles excluding the cost of installation work.

Combined

When installing a combined window box, the base of the box is made of solid coniferous wood, and the top layer is made of a set-glued pine, beech or oak board.

The total cost of the combined casing is calculated on an individual basis.

Arched

The arched enclosure is intended solely for strengthening the arches. It can be made of solid pine wood and glued beams.

The final cost of the product directly depends on the size and radius of the openings and is calculated on an individual basis.

Summing up, I would like to note that a competently executed window will guarantee the safety of windows and doors of a wooden house, and will not only preserve their functionality, but also give a pleasant appearance to the facade of the building.

Algorithm for making an arched window in the video:

How to make casing in a wooden house

Installation of the opening window requires some preparation. Beforehand, it is worth acquiring the necessary tools:

screwdriver;
saw;
jigsaw;
drill;
a machine for grinding wood;
measuring instruments;
drills.

To make the work less difficult and have a good result, you need to choose both high quality materials and tools. The casing beams should be free of irregularities, well dried.

Features of creating and installing the box in window hole

Cuts are made in the wall timber, first of all, the lower part of the box is driven into the groove. The main thing is that it should be without defects and even: then the walls will not "float". You can use linen or jute insulation at the same time.
The sides of the window are installed. It is also better to lay a layer of insulation under them.
The upper part of the casing is mounted. It is important that it is located deeper - after installation, a kind of gap should remain, which must be laid with insulation.

Features of the jig doorway do it yourself

The casing of the door differs from the window frame. It is necessary to prepare for its installation more carefully - there is a large amount of work ahead. It is imperative to make measurements and a drawing.
For accurate measurement, you need a level and plumb lines. The required doorway is made with a saw and the grooves for the timber are cut out with it, located symmetrically.
After preparing the opening, bars are placed in the resulting holes, which are made in advance. They should be shorter than the groove. This ensures that there is no distortion. The timber is not fastened, this can adversely affect the structure as a whole.
Seal the upper part of the opening and put the box. If there is a gap, it is necessary to lay a seal in it, and cover the gaps with platbands. After that, you can proceed with the installation of the door itself.

According to the principle of making a window, there are the following types:

Solid wood - all parts are made of solid wood.
Glued casing - made of a type-glue board.
Combined - the top and sides are made of solid pine, and the window sill is made of a set-glued board. Suitable for finishing mowing.

Manufacturing a casing in a wooden frame in compliance with all the rules will provide it with high heat and sound insulation properties, help to avoid shrinkage of the structure, damage to glass and door panels.

Casing types

The cage is a supporting structure of a wooden structure and requires special attention when choosing. Windowing or casing the doors of a wooden house is equally important for strengthening walls and preparing openings.

There are several types of bobcats:

Okosyachka in a mortgage bar.

In the 90s, when in villages and summer cottages “like mushrooms after the rain” wooden houses began to “grow” from a bar, chopped and rounded logs, such a type of jail as a mortgage block became widespread.

With this method of installation, a groove is selected at the ends of the logs of the window openings, into which a block of 50x50 mm is hammered through jute.

This is the cheapest type of casing. It appeared, most likely, from the hopelessness of the builders, since in those years there was nowhere to buy the correct window, and it was too expensive and time-consuming to produce it manually. The hole in the embedded block turns out to be fragile, the corners of the connection of the structure itself are not tight, there are still many disadvantages and only one plus is inexpensive.

Okosyachka or siege why is it needed

All wooden structures inevitably shrink heavily due to wood drying out. As the material curls and bends, shrinkage can cause severe deformation of the openings in the house.

Therefore, in order to avoid deformation of windows and doors, casing must be performed.

The product consists of the following parts:

top;
sidewalls;
sill / threshold.

The caulk should be installed strictly prior to caulking.

The shrinkage protects the openings from the pressure of the logs from above and creates the gap necessary for shrinkage.

Side parts create the possibility of vertical movement of the logs, which protects the glass windows from destruction.

In most cases, the box for the box is made of coniferous wood.

What is a jar

Rough sowing

An inexpensive option for high-quality casing. The best choice for houses where further finishing of openings is planned.

Price for 1 lm - from 160 rubles
Material - solid pine

Calculation example

Shedding for a window 1.2x1.2 m - 1,480 rubles excluding installation (with a product size of 45x150 mm, type T and P)

Finish sowing

Price for 1 lm - from 270 rubles
Material - solid pine.

Calculation example

Shedding for a window 1.2x1.2 m - 2.758 rubles excluding installation (with a product size of 90x150 mm, type P)

Eurosab

An inexpensive option for casing that does not require finishing the slopes.

Price for 1 lm - from 461 rubles
Material - glue made of solid lamellas (pine).

Calculation example

Shedding for a window 1.2x1.2 m - 4.155 rubles excluding installation (with a product size of 90x150 mm, type P)

Force siege

Cage with a thickness of 90 mm and more, made by glue method "in the layer". Recommended for installation in arched openings, balcony blocks, panoramic windows, large swing doors, gates.

Price for 1 lm - from 905 rubles with a size of 90x150 (90 casing thickness, 150 wall thickness)
Material - glued pine wood.

Calculation example

A power cage for a 1.2x1.2 m window will cost you 5,200 rubles excluding installation.

Combined siege

New development of our company. The base of the product is made of solid pine, and the top layer is made of a set-adhesive board, which can be made of pine, oak, beech, valuable wood species.

The combined shedding successfully combines a pleasant price and aesthetic appearance.
Price is calculated individually.

Arched siege

Arched cage made by Shuvoe. It is made of dry solid pine wood and glued beams. The production time for this type of product depends on the size and radius of arched openings.

The main types of jaws in a wooden house and their manufacturing technology

Okosyachka "in a mortgage block". This type is a prefabricated structure. A 50 cm x 50 cm block is installed in a cut groove prepared in advance. This block will be the main guide for the vertical movement of the log house.

In a wooden house, a casing is made up of edged boards measuring 50 mm x 150 mm or 50 mm x 200 mm, based on the thickness of the logs.

This technology is very popular for 2 reasons: 1) because of the rapid manufacture and subsequent assembly, 2) because of the relative cheapness.

Okosyachka "In shim monolith". This technology implies the manufacture of casing in a wooden house from an integral rectangular bar. Its installation is carried out in a groove in the frame, which is cut in advance. The function of the top (upper horizontal lintel) is performed by an edged board, the thickness of which is 50 millimeters.

Boxing "in the log" is the most common casing method among the people. The installation involves cutting a groove into a monolithic casing, which is made of rectangular bar. The function of the top is performed by an edged board with a thickness of 50 millimeters.

The ridge, which is cut at the end of the log house, is a guide for the movement of the log house. The uprights on the sides are also made of timber

At the same time, "logs" are made, inside of which a groove is cut in the center (50mmx50mm in size), when making them it is important to take into account the thickness of the logs.

Putting the thermal insulation in advance, the decks are pushed onto the ridge, and the racks are attached to the lower bearing crown using pins or wooden dowels. The vertex is placed on top in a spacer, it is fixed with screws to the side uprights of the casing.

Okosyachka "in a thorn with a ready slope." A groove is cut at the end of the opening. A bar (50x50 mm) is installed in it through the seal. This block is a guide for the vertical movement of the frame.

For the manufacture of a jig in this method, a glued carriage is used, which is made of coniferous trees, its thickness is 50 millimeters. Then, on the window, "internally quarters" are made of glued bar for installation of window structures. Fastening the window into the opening is carried out using self-tapping screws.

In order to facilitate the process of installing a window in a wooden house on our own, we will present its main stages.

Features of installing a window in a wooden house

The width of the casing constituent elements can be up to 26 cm. However, it can be larger, but, in this case, this can lead to the appearance of cracks along the entire length of the structure. Typically, a window box is made of wood with a moisture content of 10 to 12 percent.

Note!

If the moisture content of the wood is less, internal cracks are possible in it. Extreme care is required in the manufacture of casing doors, especially metal ones.

There are two types

Simple, which is notable for the presence of pre-cut grooves in the edge logs - for perfect entry of one side of the casing. This type is used exclusively when installing simple wooden windows.

There are two varieties. Simple, which is notable for the presence of pre-cut grooves in the edge logs - for perfect entry of one side of the casing. This type is used exclusively when installing simple wooden windows.

The plastic profile cannot be fixed in this way, for plastic windows there is another type of casing. Its essence is as follows: a comb is cut out at the ends of the logs, and then a carriage with a groove will be put on it. When shrinking, the comb will squeeze into the groove of the carriage without problems, and the window itself will not suffer in any way.

Window siege

The casing in common parlance is often called a box, and the instruction considers it as an indispensable element in the construction of wooden buildings. This is a wooden box for protecting and decorating window structures.

The photo shows the types of casing

There are three main types of casing that you can make with your own hands, and they all differ in manufacturing technology.

Option 1. Embedment block

a groove is cut on the inside of the opening;
a bar with a square section is laid here;
and a finishing board is already fixed to it.

This option is convenient because the installation takes place very quickly, but at the same time, it becomes necessary to finish the slopes after installing the window.

Option 2. Siege "in the thorn"

It has a higher cost than that of the embedded bar, but the quality also increases with the price. This method is usually used when constructing buildings from profiled beams or rounded logs.

The structure is made of a solid bar, which has a rectangular section in the shape of the letter "T":

the vertical part of the bar or the leg from "T" is inserted into the groove;
and the horizontal bar here serves as a window slope, so it is very convenient.

Option 3. Siege "in the deck"

This method is that:

a thorn is cut out in the side of the window opening;
a pre-prepared deck is put on it, which is cut out in the shape of the letter "P", that is, we have a thorn-groove lock.

This is the most expensive of the three main types, but it is considered the most reliable.

Classification of types of casing for structures made of wood

Experts classify designs into several types, taking into account different characteristics.

The cheapest and easiest way to set up a casing is a foundation block

Depending on the shape, the casings are subdivided into:

Seed block... This is the most inexpensive type of jail. A box is made from an ordinary board, the thickness of which is 30-50 mm. A groove is cut out from the inside of the opening for the timber. This simple structure is very quickly assembled, but it is worth remembering that, having chosen it, you will have to trim the slopes after installing the window.
U-shaped, they are also called "in the deck"... This classic look is made by cutting a spike at the end of the wall, on which the vertical elements of the window are installed. The frame moves along them during shrinkage. This design allows you to relieve the load on window and door openings and makes it possible for the frames inserted in them to function correctly. The window is impregnated with an antiseptic solution and insulated between the spike and the groove. To avoid a draft, a wind lock is made under the windowsill. A soft insulation is laid over the upper part of the casing.
T-shaped siege or, as it is also called, - "in the thorn"... A groove is cut in the end part of the opening, the side parts of the box are made with a T-shaped profile. On the risers of the casing, you need to glue the bars that provide stiffeners that hold the window in a certain shape. In the manufacture of this type of box, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the technology. Do not fasten the bars with nails or self-tapping screws, this will affect the freezing of the opening. Be sure to treat the tree with an antiseptic and insulate the seams with a special material.

The type of jamb and the method of installation are selected in accordance with the characteristics of the structure

The type of casing is chosen depending on the structure. What is better to do in a particular case, a professional will tell you.

In addition to the listed types, builders distinguish the following types of casing:

Rough... This type is inexpensive and suitable for buildings, the openings of which will be finished in the future.
Finishing... If you choose this option, then in the future you will not have to finish the slopes.
Eurosab... This type will require additional finishing of the slopes. A special feature is the use of an adhesive material made from solid pine lamellas.
Power... Experts advise using this option in an arched opening, as well as using it for panoramic windows, balcony blocks.
Arched... This option is used to strengthen arches. They are made from both solid wood and glue beams. The cost will depend on the type of material from which the cage is made.
Combined... When using this type of jamb, you need to know that the base of the box is made of coniferous wood, and the top layer is glued from oak, pine or beech boards. This casing option is more expensive.