How to install laminate flooring on wood floors. We lay the laminate on a wooden floor: installation technologies. Choosing a substrate for a laminate on a wooden floor
Renovation in an apartment very often involves not only updating the interior decor, but also replacing the old flooring with a more modern one. Often, it is this stage of repair that becomes the most problematic. This issue is especially acute for the owners of apartments in Khrushchev, where the floors are planks, because, if you figure it out, there are not so many floor coverings that are compatible with laying on a tree. In most cases, it is necessary to dismantle the wooden floor, followed by preparation for laying a new floor covering. But this procedure is not only lengthy, but also quite expensive, which prompts the choice of a coating that can be laid without removing your old plank floor. The best option in this case is a laminate, which can be quickly and easily laid on any wooden base without resorting to the services of specialists. How to lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor in an apartment will be discussed further.
To assess the feasibility of using a laminated coating for laying on a wooden base, it is necessary to carry out a complete diagnosis of the latter, because very often a wooden floorboard is susceptible to fungus or mold, the influence of external factors can lead to surface deformation, its deflections and squeaks. Therefore, you should pay attention to the following points when checking the plank subfloor to see if the laminate can be placed on a wooden floor:
- dryness - this indicator should be given Special attention, since rotting of the surface or fungal infection of the board will continue after the installation of the lamellas. Over time, this problem will spread to the installed laminate flooring;
- hardness - the strength of a wooden base for laminate flooring is another important factor that should not be ignored. It depends on how long the new coating will last without flaws and deformation;
- evenness - care should also be taken to ensure that the surface of the previous coating is as even as possible. A deviation of 2 mm per 2 m length is allowed. Otherwise, the lamellas of the laminate will begin to creak, and the interlocks will undergo deformation.
The detailed requirements for working with a wooden floor for laying laminate flooring can be found by watching the video. If the base still has flaws that can be eliminated, then the laminate is laid on a wooden floor only after they have been eliminated.
With a large amount of damage to the plank floor, it is still recommended to completely dismantle it, followed by pouring the area with a concrete screed.
How to lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor
The technology of laying laminated lamellas on a plank base consists of several stages of preparatory work and the flooring directly already of the laminate itself. Before placing your laminate on a wooden floor, you need to prepare all the necessary materials and tools. Then you should assess the condition of the base surface and, if necessary, carry out work to eliminate the deficiencies identified on it. At the next stage, the flooring of the selected substrate is carried out, on which the selected type of laminate is already laid.
Getting started necessary tools and materials, priority should be given to the choice of the laminate itself, which consists of several layers and can have a different basis.
The laminated board has the following structure:
- overlay - a protective layer that prevents damage to the lamella from different kind impact: chemical, biological, mechanical;
- decorative layer - a material that sets the color scheme of the board, its drawing. The reliability of the layer is provided by melamine impregnation;
- the base is a board made of high-density wood-fiber materials. The quality of the panels and, accordingly, the scope of application depends on the density of the base. The basis can be MDF or chipboard boards;
- stabilizing layer - protects against moisture seepage, as it contains paraffin or melamine paper.
The type of laminate is chosen depending on the scope of its application and the passage of the room.
Materials required for use:
- laminate of the corresponding class from 31 to 33;
- substrate;
- fastening materials for wood;
- mastic;
- timber.
To work, you need a set of the following tools:
- carpentry hammer;
- square;
- mallet;
- ruler;
- jigsaw;
- construction vacuum cleaner;
- nail puller;
- saw;
- level or level;
- hacksaw;
- puncher;
- brushes;
- screwdriver;
- cycling machine.
Equipped with such a composition of tools and materials, you can proceed to the next stage of work. 
Laminate laying tools
Diagnostics and repair of the base
Before laying the laminate on a wooden floor, it is necessary to carry out a thorough examination and, if such a need arises, repairs that can be done on your own. What points should be paid attention to and how to eliminate the identified deficiencies are discussed below:
- wood floors are leaky or rotten. If the material is slightly damaged, you can lay the same board just by turning it over. A place that has been affected by mold or rot must be treated with a special compound. If the tree has deeper damage, it is better to carry out a complete replacement of the boardwalk;
- if the floors creak or they sag slightly in certain areas, it is necessary to additionally fix the boards using self-tapping screws or nails. Their caps should be driven deep into a wooden surface. Otherwise, the metal that will protrude beyond the surface will damage the power tools used in the future - a scraper or electric planer;
- if the boards "play" underfoot along with the lags, then it is necessary to fix the lags themselves. To do this, the lag is attached to the concrete base with an anchor, having previously drilled it;
- small gaps or cracks between the boards can be filled with putty. You can eliminate large gaps using polyurethane foam;
- in case of significant subsidence of floors or drops exceeding the norm, it is necessary to level the frame directly, having previously removed the boardwalk. To eliminate minor flaws, support wedges are used, which are attached to the logs. In case of significant discrepancies in height, a complete replacement of the frame is necessary.
Preparing a wooden floor for renovation 
Scroll the floor in rows along the lags At the end of all preparatory work, the base for laying laminated boards must be perfectly flat, which can be checked using a level or level. If you put the laminate on an uneven wooden floor, then a squeak will inevitably appear, the life of the floor covering will be short, since the locks of the lamellas will disperse from the loads, thereby violating the integrity of the surface.
Leveling the wood floor
It has already been said above that the final result of the work directly depends on how flat the base surface will be. Therefore, the issue of leveling the plank base should be approached with all responsibility, because even a slight unevenness will subsequently cause squeaks or breakdowns. There are several most common methods for leveling a surface on a wooden base.
Scraping a wooden floor - for slight irregularities in the base made of wood, you can use the scraping method or a similar surface treatment with an electric plane. This method will give the desired result with minor deviations from the norm of the height difference, which should not exceed 4-6 mm per 1 m 2. For ease of use and ease of control of grinding, it is better to divide the floor surface into several squares. Upon completion of all work, it is necessary to carry out a control check of the surface with a level and carefully remove sawdust and dust with a vacuum cleaner. If irregularities take up a small space, then you can get rid of them with sandpaper or by hand scraping. 
Grinding the floor
The use of a self-leveling mixture - if the floor is very old, and there is no desire or opportunity to replace it with a new one. Before pouring, preparatory work should be carried out: clean the floor of paint, fill up the voids, if any, with putty, prime the dried surface, mark the floor with a level, fill with the prepared mixture and level the surface.
Leveling the wooden floor with PVA-based filler. The use of such mixtures is more acceptable when working with large surfaces. The screed with such mixtures consists of several successive stages: installation of lighthouse rails, filling the gaps with wet sawdust and diluted mixture, checking the evenness of the surface, eliminating deficiencies. If necessary, you can apply several additional layers of putty about 2 cm thick. A new layer is poured only on the dried out previous surface, which is time-consuming. 
Sealing cracks and cracks with putty
Plywood leveling - Laminate plywood on wood flooring is the most common method for leveling the base plane. The class of plywood should not be less than 4/4, and the thickness should not be less than 15 mm. Plywood must be pre-impregnated with special compounds that will prevent rapid deterioration of the material. The final result will depend on these indicators. Laying plywood on a wooden floor under the laminate begins with leveling the subfloor. For this, wedges are installed under the logs. Then plywood is laid with full horizontal control. If necessary, slats are placed under the chipboard sheets. Then the plywood is attached to the frame base joint to joint. For more information on the types of floor leveling with your own hands, see the following video. 
Plywood alignment
Laying underlays for laminate
For additional leveling of the floor, a special waterproofing material is used - a substrate, which takes place between the rough leveled floor and the laminate. The substrate is laid both on the adhesive mixture and without additional fastening. In the second case, the joints are fixed with tape. The optimum material thickness is considered to be 3 mm. Wooden floors must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and small particles before laying the underlayment. 
Roll backing
The underlay serves the following purposes:
- enhancing heat and sound insulation;
- preventing the laminate from rubbing against wood floors;
- increasing the strength of the structure;
- additional alignment of the base layer.
For work, use a substrate made of the following materials:
- polyethylene foam;
- Cork;
- bituminous canvas;
- polyurethane foam.
It is best to use a natural substrate to cover the wood base. 
Bonding the substrate at the joints
Laying laminate
Before laying laminate flooring on wood flooring, it is necessary that the laminated lamellae have been acclimatized. To do this, they are kept indoors for 2-3 days. This procedure helps the material balance with the environment.
Before starting work on finishing the floor area, you need to figure out how to properly lay the laminate on a wooden floor and what determines the way the lamellas are placed. Laminate can be laid perpendicular or parallel to the window, which is the light source, and diagonally. The diagonal placement of the slats contributes to the visual expansion of the room. Perpendicular masonry helps to hide the joints.
The work on the flooring must be started by marking the floor, along which the distance is then measured and the number of boards for laying is calculated. At this stage of work, it should be borne in mind that the next laid laminated row must be displaced at a distance of at least half the length of the lamella, which forms the necessary mismatch of the seams. Let's take a look at how to lay laminate flooring on a wood floor using different installation methods. Laying the first row Offset seams 
Laminate lock padding
Click system
A relatively new and easiest installation method to install, which allows you to quickly and efficiently lay lamellas on a wooden floor with your own hands. Laminate with a Click lock is started from the far corner in rows, leaving a gap of 10 mm between the wall and the first one next to the installation of special wedges. This procedure helps to avoid deformation of laminated panels due to temperature changes or changes in humidity in the room. The strips are joined by connecting the lamella locks at an angle of 20-30 degrees and then snapping in by pressing the surface with force. The Click connection system allows you to disassemble the required floor area for renovation work.
Lock system
Laminates with such a system begin to be laid from the corner located farthest from the doorway. The lamellas are joined horizontally. To do this, the thorn of one lamella is inserted into the groove of the already laid panel and knocked out until it is completely fixed with a rubber cue. A long row with full fixation is pre-laid. It is necessary to arrange a temperature gap of 3-5 mm between the wall and the floor. For the flooring of the last row, a lamella is cut to fill the entire remaining space. It is better to tap it not at the end of the laminate, but to use a buffer bar for this purpose. In this way, damage to the surface of the laminated board and deformation of the lock can be avoided.
Glued laminate
The most time consuming method of laying laminated boards, therefore, this type of laminate is very rare. This method of masonry is relevant for rooms with high humidity. The panels are connected using the tongue-and-groove method. The ends of the laminated boards are coated with glue in excess and aligned with the locks of the next board. For laying the second row, the first lamella is cut in half, which allows you to start laying with an offset of the seams. For better fixing of the flooring, tape can be used. The finished surface can be used at least after 12 hours. A thematic video will allow you to visually understand all the nuances of working with laminate flooring.
Installation of skirting boards
At the end of the work on the flooring of laminated panels, it is necessary to carry out the final stage - installation of skirting boards. In the case of laminate flooring, any kind of skirting board must be fixed to the wall. For this, dowels, screws or glue are suitable.
Skirting boards can be used in all types and modifications - wooden, flexible, plastic or MDF, solid or with a cable channel. The main rule in this case is the organic combination of the new floor with the skirting board.
As you can see, laminate flooring isn't all that difficult. It is important, before putting the laminate on an uneven floor, to carry out all the necessary work to eliminate the shortcomings, and then the coating will delight its owners for a long time with strength and reliability. 
Fixing the plinth
Video about laying laminate flooring on wood floor
The video explains in detail how to install laminate flooring on a wooden floor.
Laminate flooring lies confidently on any flat surface. The base made of wood was no exception. Laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor is not difficult, especially if a floor heating system is not used. Next, we will consider the main points of installation of laminated flooring, installation methods, requirements for a wooden base. Consider the installation methods, the calculation of the required amount and the possibility of flooring in an unheated wooden house.
Cons of laying laminate flooring on wood floors
There are negative sides both at the base and at the topcoat. For both the first and the second, these disadvantages can be corrected. Let's dwell on each of the floor elements in more detail.
Cons of a wooden base
A wooden floor is not a rigid fixed base, its dimensions can change under external influences, which has a detrimental effect on the laminated topcoat. With temperature fluctuations and more humidity, the linear dimensions decrease and increase, creating additional stresses for both the base and the laminate. Also, with deformations, the joints of the floorboards to the lags can suffer (especially if the floor is old and the fastening was made with nails).
The lack of clearance between the timber deck and the wall will cause the floor to bulge. This is due to the expansion of the floorboards with an increase in temperature or humidity. In this case, the resulting expansion goes from the center to the walls. The boards hit the wall, and the floor stands on end, cracks are formed at the joints of the boards. If the final laminated coating has already been installed, then the elimination of such a problem is made only with the complete dismantling of the laminate and the following layers to the wooden base.
This problem is not only aesthetic in nature. The formation of moldy areas reduces the load-bearing capacity of the board. Over time, affected locations fail under periodic mechanical stress. Lack of ventilation is one of the main causes of rot and fungus. Therefore, as a preventive measure, it is necessary to ensure free air access to the bottom of the base. This method does not allow air masses to stagnate.
Cons of laminate
Moving on to the laminate. This also has its drawbacks.
- the main point is the change in linear dimensions with fluctuations in temperature and humidity. With such negative influences, additional loads appear on the laminate locks, the coating may swell at the joints.
- low bending strength of the bar. Unlike a parquet board, the thickness of the lamella is less, so its rigidity is low. This moment is leveled by the increased requirements for the base on which the laminate is laid.
The base must be leveled, differences in height eliminated. Otherwise, the lamella does not fit snugly against wooden floor, voids are formed, loads on thin strips increase. Naturally, such a negative impact puts the flooring out of action in a short time.
Requirements for a wooden base for laminate
Laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor has several basic conditions, we will list them:
- leveled surface of the draft layer. The difference in height for a wooden base should not exceed 2 mm per 1 m of the floor;
- the base boards must be firmly fixed to the joists. A high-quality fit of the floorboards will allow you to avoid unpleasant squeaks, sagging boards, excessive stress in local areas when walking on the floor.
- no cracks. Distances between adjacent floorboards should be minimal or absent altogether. Unlike a solid web, a base with gaps has less rigidity and resistance to mechanical stress. In addition, moisture from the basement can pass through the cracks.
- the wooden base must be intact. In the presence of cracks, chips, breaks, it is necessary to carry out repair work to replace the damaged boards.
- fasteners must not protrude above the floor surface. The heads of nails or screws are recessed into the board.
- lack of mold and putrefactive areas.
If laying the laminate on a new, recently laid wooden floor, then most likely additional preparation manipulations are not required, provided that the requirements from the previous paragraph are met.
When using an old wooden floor as a base, repair work is carried out before installing the topcoat. In case of significant damage to the base, dismantling is carried out with the subsequent laying of a new flooring.
Inspection of the surface of a wooden floor for defects
First of all, the paint and varnish layer is removed from the tree. The operation can be carried out manually with a plane with a small projection of the cutting edge or sandpaper with coarse abrasive particles. This approach may work if the floor space is small. Otherwise, special scraper machines for parquet are used. 
Tip: before removing the top layer, make sure that the heads of nails or screws do not protrude above the boards. In the presence of such elements, the caps are drowned with a hammer. If this is not done, there is a risk of damage to the cutting edges of the scraper.
After removing the paint and sanding, the resulting debris, sawdust, paint chips are removed with a vacuum cleaner. Next, the boards are checked for cracks, cracks, the presence of mold, mildew.
If a fungus or mold is found, the damaged area is cleaned, an antifungal composition is applied and kept until completely dry. The ventilation system is checked. Small cracks are sealed with a sealant or putty, slats are hammered into large ones - slats are selected according to the size of the slit, the lower part of which is sharpened under the wedge. Further, such a rail is driven into the crevice using a mallet or a hammer using a tamping block. After eliminating the gaps between the boards, these places are additionally sanded.
Checking the evenness of the floor
Next, the flatness of the surface is checked. This can be done using a long and even plank (rule). In this case, when the distance between the rule and the floor is formed, the gap is measured using a tape measure. By moving the bar, the greatest irregularities are determined. The maximum deviations should not exceed 2 mm per 1 m of floor. If this is the case, then the floor does not need additional leveling. 
Alternative methods for checking the evenness of the floor are based on the use of a hydro level and a laser level.
Leveling the wood floor under the laminate
If the difference in height exceeds 2 mm, we proceed to the process of leveling the floor. The choice of method is determined by the degree of unevenness. With small deviations of the order of 3-6 mm, another 1-2 grinding cycles are performed.
Larger irregularities are corrected in one of the following ways:
- putty;
- OSB boards or plywood on a dry screed;
- self-leveling mixtures.
Filler with sawdust and PVA
Quite an easy way to level the surface. Based on the use of a mixture of sawdust and PVA soaked in water. Soaking is done to prevent the sawdust from absorbing moisture from the glue.
- On the entire floor area, special aluminum guides are installed in parallel at approximately the same distance from each other. The height of the slats is no more than 20 mm.
- The prepared mixture of sawdust and PVA is laid out between the aluminum strips. Smooth out until a layer of 5-10 mm is formed. The time is expected until the laid layer dries up. The next layer is laid next.
- The finishing layer is laid, which in the wet state is leveled by the passage of a straight bar-rule.
- When the final coat is dry, the aluminum strips are removed. The installation sites are sealed with a mixture of sawdust and PVA.
Leveling wood floor under laminate plywood
The most common method for leveling the subfloor surface. Small differences in height are eliminated by laying the plywood directly on the base. In case of serious irregularities, installation is carried out on logs or leveling pads. 
Advice: before laying, plywood is treated with antiseptic and moisture-repellent compounds.
Consider laying plywood on logs using a dry screed:
- If necessary, gaps are made near the wall to compensate for the expansion of the tree.
- All debris is removed from the surface of the wooden floor, dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner.
- A waterproofing layer of polyethylene film is laid. At the edges, the film is placed on the wall by 2-3 cm.
- The lag is fastened with self-tapping screws directly to the floor.
- The gaps between the logs are filled with a dry screed, such as fine expanded clay or Knauf screed.
- Plywood sheets are pre-stacked on logs. The level is used to check the deviation from the horizontal. With significant differences, the log is cut using a hand planer. Next, the grinding of the hewn areas is carried out.
- Plywood sheets are attached to the joists. The caps of the self-tapping screws must be sunk into the sheet.
- The joints between the plywood sheets, as well as the attachment points, are sealed with putty and polished.
- The finished layer is cleaned of debris and dust.
Important: during installation, an expansion gap is left between the plywood and the wall.
Important: to ensure high stability indicators, plywood sheets are stacked with a slight offset from each other, in a checkerboard pattern.
Self-leveling mixtures
The use of self-leveling floors to level a wooden base is rarely used, since it contains a number of disadvantages:
- relative complexity of work
- more than 1 person is required to fill;
- the weight of the structure increases. Especially critical for old houses with unreliable ceilings;
- laying the laminate is carried out only when the self-leveling floors are completely dry, this may take more than 7 days, depending on the thickness of the layer.
However, with all the shortcomings, the finished surface is perfectly flat. Therefore, this method is still used in some cases, for example, in new houses with solid floors.
Steps for installing a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor
- The gap between the wall and the floor is closed with an expansion joint, for example, a cork expansion joint. This is necessary to leave the tree with a degree of freedom for expansion, while creating a flat surface when filled.
- The floor is treated with water-repellent and antiseptic solutions.
- A plastic wrap is laid on the wooden floor in an overlap with an approach to the walls. The seams are connected with tape.
- A damper tape is attached to the walls over the polyethylene to compensate for stresses in the self-leveling floor and to prevent cracking.
- According to the instructions, the potting mixture is diluted.
- The resulting homogeneous composition is evenly distributed on the base. To obtain a level surface, it is necessary to eliminate air bubbles. This is done using a needle roller or special shoes for laying self-leveling floors. Elimination of bubbles must be done immediately after pouring, until the mixture has time to set, therefore, it is more convenient to act together during installation.
- The finishing layer is laid after the floor is completely dry, after about 7 days. You can check dryness as follows: put polyethylene on the surface and press it tightly from all sides or stick it with tape. Leave it like this overnight. If there is no condensation on the polyethylene in the morning, then the floor is ready for further installation work.
Important: when choosing self-leveling floors, preference should be given to those that are suitable in combination with wooden floors. See information on the packaging.
Stage of laying laminate on a wooden floor
There are 2 main methods for laying laminate flooring:
- Straight.
- Diagonally.
The first is more common, since this option is more economical in terms of the efficient use of material (less waste remains). Plus, direct styling is quicker and easier. This method will be discussed here. You can learn more about laying laminate diagonally in one of our articles.
Before installation, the laminate must lie down for 48 hours with a horizontal arrangement of packs. This process must be carried out in the room in which the coating will be used. During this time, the laminate will get used to humidity and temperature, and excessive internal stresses in the material will decrease. 
Installation tools
We use a standard set of tools:
- A hacksaw for wood or a jigsaw.
- Roulette.
- Square / protractor for measuring angles.
- Pencil for marking panels.
- Hammer or mallet for adjusting adjacent lamellas.
- Tamping block to prevent damage to panel locks during tamping.
- Stationery knife for cutting the backing material.
- Adhesive tape for connecting adjacent tracks of the substrate.
- The clamp is a metal clip with a thin edge. Used for padding a row on panels located against a wall.
- Drill and feather drills for creating pipe holes.
With more complete list tools, including special devices, can be found in one of our articles.
Calculation of the required amount of laminate per room
The calculation is based on the area of the room. In the most trivial example, when the shape of the room is rectangular, it is not difficult to calculate the area. In the case of more complex shapes, the approximate area is determined using the room drawing.
In addition to the size of the room, the amount of material is also influenced by the method of installation - for the diagonal method, the laminate is spent 10-15% more.
Laying the underlay
The technology for laying laminate flooring requires a substrate that performs several functions at once:
- acts as a shock-absorbing layer, reduces the load on the tool joints;
- reduces noise of steps, squeaks;
- additionally levels the base, reduces unevenness of the wood floor or plywood.
You can repair floors in several ways and using materials of various costs. Laminate flooring is considered a budget flooring, and therefore it is very popular among domestic builders. Laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor has its own characteristics. We will tell you about them in detail later in the article.
Substrate requirements are largely dependent on the physical and performance characteristics of the topcoat. Manufacturers obsessively advertise the advantages of laminate flooring, but are silent about their weaknesses. This is understandable and is explained by the desire to increase the volume of sales of products and the profitability of companies. What are the negative features of laminate flooring?
For all floor coverings, there is one feature: the worse their physical performance, the more stringent the requirements for the base.
Disadvantages of wooden bases
The wooden floor is not static, but a dynamic architectural structure. It constantly changes its parameters, and such deviations can be critical for the laminate. They must be borne in mind and eliminated.
- Fluctuations in linear dimensions. The tree constantly changes its relative humidity values, taking into account the indoor microclimate or due to contact with the humid air of the underground. As a result, the boards increase or decrease in size, the base under the laminate is unstable. Before laying the topcoat, a set of special construction measures must be applied to minimize the negative impact of this effect.
- Swelling of floors. If the existing arrangement of old wooden floors does not allow the boards to move slightly, then there are risks of swelling on the floor surface. Laminate coverings react very negatively to such changes; the adverse consequences can be eliminated only after the coverings are dismantled. It is expensive and difficult, it is much more expedient to prevent the occurrence of unpleasant situations than to eliminate their consequences.
- The development of putrefactive processes. Not all builders fulfill the requirements of building codes and regulations, and during the laying of boards they allow for defects. As a result, wooden floors are affected by rot and lose their bearing parameters, the floor collapses, and further operation is impossible. This is the most unpleasant situation that requires a lot of time to be eliminated. The fact is that natural boards rot for one reason - the underground space does not have effective ventilation. It makes no sense to change individual damaged elements without eliminating the causes of their failure. And it is very difficult to make natural ventilation of the underground space in the exploited premises.
We have specially provided the most objective analysis of possible situations and the reasons for their occurrence. This knowledge will help you make the right technical decisions when laying the laminate on.
Stages of laying laminate
Regardless of the specific condition of the wooden floor and the chosen technology for laying the laminate, all work should be divided into several operations.
Table. The procedure for preparing the base for laminate
| Preparation phase | List and short description of the work performed |
|---|---|
| You should start with a visual inspection. If the boards have large cracks, and the surface is strongly deformed or sags under loads, then further examination of the bearing elements is necessary to select a method for their repair. Damaged boards must be replaced. At the same time, you should check the accuracy of the floor surface horizontally - the deviation cannot exceed two millimeters per linear meter. If it is more, then you need to make a decision on the alignment method. There are many technologies, from the use of special leveling systems, self-tapping screws, linings and to pouring self-leveling compounds. | |
| If the floors are loose or there are completely rotten boards on the surface, then this indicates a greater likelihood of damage to the log. It is necessary to carefully examine suspicious places, if problems with lags are found, they will have to be changed. | |
| As mentioned above, dry boards can last for many decades, and problems arise from their use in wet conditions. In the case of floors, this means that natural ventilation is ineffective or completely absent. How to fix this problem? A decision can only be made by a technically competent specialist, he must study and analyze the arrangement of all premises and only after that develop an optimal plan for eliminating the problem. | |
| It is recommended to lay laminate flooring on special pads that reduce noise, minimize the risk of squeaks during walking, slightly reduce heat loss, etc. But this is not a supporting base, but purely auxiliary. The supporting base can be directly floor boards, plywood, OSB boards or cement-bonded, self-leveling screeds. When making the final choice of material and technology for preparing the load-bearing base for laminate floors, it is recommended not only to take into account the current state of old coatings, but also their future behavior. The floors are installed for a long period of time, the mistakes made will certainly show themselves, and this is a very unpleasant consequence. |
As an example, we will consider a rather complex, but one of the most reliable options for laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor. Each master can correct some technological operations depending on the actual state of the foundation, but decisions taken should not degrade the technical and operational characteristics of the structure.
Calculator for calculating the number of laminate boards per room
The finish of the wooden floor is different. A suitable option would be a wood covering, since the natural material will preserve environmental friendliness and harmoniously fit into the interior. The wooden surface is pleasant to the touch and keeps you warm for a long time. In addition, the material is easy to install and handle. You can easily achieve the color, shade or shine you want.
Typically, the laminate is laid on a leveled concrete screed. However, you can also lay the material on the wood flooring. In this article, we'll take a look at how to properly lay your laminate flooring on a wood floor.
Features of installing laminate
On the sides of the laminate boards, locks are installed, which, during installation, must be tightly docked with the adjacent board. Therefore, lay the laminate on a wooden floor only on a hard, flat surface. If the flooring is uneven, the locks will quickly wear out and disperse, and gaps form at the joints. This leads to deformation and deterioration of the material. The technology of laying laminate on a wooden floor allows a surface difference of 1 mm for two meters.
Thus, floor boards should be free from crevices, rot and other noticeable damage. They must have a sufficient margin of safety and a flat surface without knots, depressions and protrusions, do not sag under load and do not creak.
If you plan to lay the laminate on an old wooden floor, the surface is pre-leveled and the boards are replaced if they are rotten or squeaky. Let's take a closer look at how to prepare the flooring and how to properly lay the laminate on a wooden floor.
Preparing the wood floor
Before laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor, it is important to remove any sagging boards, creaks and other defects. To do this, the logs are firmly fixed to the concrete base, and then the floorboards are rigidly tied to each other. First, floorboards are laid across the lag and fixed with screws or nails. When the boards and joists are secured, the loose boards are additionally fastened with another material. You can take chipboard with a thickness of over 15 mm.
Chipboards should be placed on top of the floorboards and secured with self-tapping screws. Before installation, a grid with cells of 10X10 centimeters is marked on the chipboard plate. The fastening of materials is done along the lines of intersection of the grid and the plates are laid at a distance of 3-5 mm from each other. Such a gap is necessary so that the wooden boards can expand as needed without deforming the floor.
After laying the chipboard panels, the floor area is polished in strips with an overlap of 10 centimeters. If the floor is new and level, then it is possible to install the laminate on the floor without plywood directly on a wooden base. However, before starting work, the surface must be leveled with a grinder. Now let's take a closer look at how to lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor.
Types of laminate fixing
Before laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor, it is important to choose the right material and method of joining. The boards are divided according to the type of the castle. The “Lock” connection system assumes that the tongue and groove are located in the same horizontal plane. In this case, the laminate boards are laid horizontally by inserting the tenon into the groove. This connection characterizes ease of installation. But it is not very durable, as the thorns can break off. Therefore, experts do not recommend using this type of laminate.
The “Click” system is stronger and more reliable. It implies a three-dimensional construction in which the panels are laid at a specific angle. It is the most popular connection and is characterized by its strength and durability. In addition, the cover can be easily disassembled if necessary.
For kitchens and rooms with high humidity, an adhesive laminate is chosen. It forms a single monolithic surface, which is characterized by high density and strength. But the installation of such materials is complicated by the fact that glue must be applied to the lock joints. This surface is not applicable to underfloor heating! In addition, the resulting surface can be used no earlier than 10 hours after installation.
The technology of laying laminate on a wooden floor
- After leveling, the floor surface is covered with a waterproofing film to protect wooden materials from decay, the appearance of mold and mildew;
- Then a 3 mm thick substrate is installed. The substrate is made in strips of cork or polypropylene and mounted joint to joint, then secured with construction tape or tape;
- The installation of the laminate is carried out from the window to the front door, starting from the corner. The first row is placed in an interval from the wall 8-10 mm from the walls, and a wedge is placed between the wall and the material. Such a gap is needed to compensate for the expansion of wooden boards during changes in temperature or humidity;
- The first row is laid completely and starts with the whole panel. The second row starts half of the board. He also fits to the end. Thus, even rows start from whole panels, and odd ones from half;
- If the “Click” lock is used, each next row is placed in the end lock to the previous one at an angle of 25 degrees. To do this, the last board of the first row must be trimmed;
- Each next row of laminated panels is placed with an offset of the joints of the previous one by 40 centimeters or more;
- After installing the laminate around the perimeter, remove the wedges between the material and the wall, and then install the plinth.
Final works
After the completion of the work, the skirting boards are installed. In this case, it is important to fix the skirting board only to the wall and not to the laminate slabs! Experts recommend choosing only wood planks. Such products will harmoniously complement the design, give the room a finished look and preserve the naturalness of the floor. Before installation, the materials are left indoors for two to three days so that they “get used” to the temperature and humidity in the room.
Products are laid along the walls as they should be installed. Installation starts from one of the corners. When attaching, make sure that the skirting board is as tight as possible to the wall. The first bar is cut at an angle on one side, and on the other, for connection. The gash for the connection is made at an angle of 45 degrees. The rest of the skirting boards are also laid, making cuts and attaching to the wall with self-tapping screws.
After installation, the skirting boards are putty and varnished. Laminate flooring does not need to be varnished! The plates are already covered with a protective film that cannot absorb liquid materials. In addition, the material may crack in some places due to the application of varnish.
Laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor with your own hands requires care and accuracy in work. It is important to lay the slabs correctly, the life of the flooring will depend on this. If the work is done illiterately, soon the products will begin to move away from each other, the surface will become uneven and ugly. In addition, water can enter the cracks, as a result, the wooden floor will deform and become unusable. To avoid such problems, contact the professionals!
Masters of "MariSrub" will carry out work on the installation and finishing of the floor in a wooden house, including the laying of laminate. We guarantee quality and reliability! Have you decided to build your own country cottage or country house from a log or a bar? We offer a full range of works, which includes the installation of a log house, construction of the foundation and roof, installation of the floor and ceiling, engineering networks and final finishing. We build wooden houses turnkey and shrinkage for an individual or standard project.
Subject to a number of conditions, you can easily lay the laminate on a wooden floor yourself and get an even and very beautiful coating.
Previously, laminated boards were mounted exclusively on concrete base... Nowadays there is a simple technology that allows you to lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor. In essence, it differs little from the installation scheme of such a coating on a leveled sand-cement mixture. You just need to take into account some of the features of the plank grounds. And then do-it-yourself styling will pass without a hitch.
Laying laminate flooring
The wood base has two key features. Over time, they lose their original characteristics and change geometric parameters. Therefore, before laying the laminate on an old wood floor, you should carefully analyze the logs, support bars and boards. If their condition leaves much to be desired, it is imperative to prepare the base for the installation of laminated flooring.
The plank foundations are not stable and not truly stable. In this regard, even minor displacements of laminated panels cause the formation of an additional load on their locks. This causes deformation of the coating during its operation.
If you want your laminate flooring to delight you with its smooth and elegant surface, eliminate all defects of the plank base in advance. How to do this with your own hands will be discussed further.
The first step is to identify uneven areas of the floor. Perform this operation using a building level (even better, use a laser tool). You can level the old plank floor with your own hands using several methods.
The scraper is suitable for subfloors with slight irregularities (about 4–6 mm per square of floor). Cycling is performed with an electric plane or sandpaper (if all defects of the wooden base are located in the same area). Before starting the operation, it is necessary to sink all fasteners (for example, nails) into the wood, so as not to damage the blades of the planer or the hand scraper, which can also be used to level the floor. Be sure to check the quality of the grinding work and the plane after processing each individual area of the base. After scraping, check the floor surface again with a level.
Floor scrapping
When leveling with chipboard (chipboard) or plywood, it is recommended to use sheets of relatively thick thickness (about 1.5–2 cm). Treat plywood or chipboard with a fungicidal compound or ordinary drying oil, carefully level the wooden base by lining plastic or wooden wedges under the logs. Plywood sheets must first be cut with a special circular saw to the required dimensions, and then put on a rough base. After that, check the resulting difference in planes and, if necessary, place small thick wood slats under the sheets of the leveling material. Chipboard and plywood are attached.
Often there is a need for a small repair of a wooden base, on which you want to lay laminated boards with your own hands. Such work is done simply:
- when the coating subsides, support special wedges should be installed under the wooden logs;
- rotten boards are replaced;
- gaps and cracks are treated with putty;
- wobbly boards are fixed with self-tapping screws;
- when both the logs and the boards on them stagger, you need to fix the supporting elements (press the logs at the base with anchors).
After the repair, do not forget to very carefully clean the base from debris and fine dust. Use a vacuum cleaner.
Laying laminate flooring requires the use of underlays. They can be made from:
- bitumen;
- polyurethane foam;
- environmentally friendly natural cork material;
- foil;
- polypropylene (foamed).
Laying allows you to hide minor unevenness of the subfloor, and also provides the effects of heat saving, noise and sound insulation. It is important to choose the right lining material. For wooden bases, experts recommend using cork underlays, which interact well with the wood. However, you can put less expensive products made of polypropylene or polyurethane foam.
Laying laminate on a substrate
Note! The substrate should be laid on a pre-assembled polyethylene film. It performs a waterproofing function. The film is laid with an overlap of at least 15 cm (more is possible). And the installation of the substrate itself is carried out end-to-end.
For fastening the lining, construction tape is usually used (gluing is done with solid lines or periodic dots). It is not necessary to fix the substrate to wall surfaces and to the floor base.
Start the installation of laminated panels from the corner that is as far from the door as possible. The first row of products is laid horizontally, and it is carried out along the joints of the laminate.
During installation, check the position of the laminated boards in relation to the wall. They must lie absolutely flat.
An important point! The panels are laid on the boards perpendicular to the location of the latter. You also need to provide a gap between the laminated products and the wall. To do this, simply mount the restraints. They can be made of wood or plastic.
Self-laying laminate flooring
After the first correctly laid out row rests against the wall, take an electric jigsaw and cut off part of the panel. Then you start to lay the next row. At the same time, at the ends, its joints should not coincide with the joints of the products of the previous line. To achieve this, you need to take a new product, cut off about a third of it and start assembling the second row (similar to the first).
Consider the following nuance. It is necessary to fasten together all the panels of the second row and only after that do they dock with the products of the first line. It is allowed to tamp the laminate with an ordinary hammer. But at the same time, it is imperative to use a fuse bar so as not to damage the panels.
The next steps are clear. Mount all rows in the same way. Pay attention to the gaps between the laminate and the walls. The products of the last row will need to be cut to length.
You managed to lay the laminated boards yourself! Now you remove the restraints installed at the very beginning of the installation work, and proceed with the installation of the skirting board. It is recommended to use laminate caps to mask the cut areas.
The final touch is the installation of the door sill. This element is installed so that the difference in height between individual rooms is visually invisible.