How to weld a metal staircase to the second floor. Metal stairs to the second floor. Prices for metal stairs

A metal staircase to the second floor with your own hands is a great way to save money on the construction of such an element. As a rule, stairs are made to order, but you can spend much less on such a project if you implement it yourself. In addition, metal, unlike, for example, wood, allows you not to limit yourself in the design imagination in terms of the shape of the stairs. So, let's move on to the building instructions and highlight the important points.

A metal staircase to the second floor must comply with building codes and regulations that are established for certain types of buildings. You can look at the standards for your case in the relevant SNiP documents, and we will simply give you general requirements at such rates.

Plan the width of the stairs at least 1 meter, and set the angle of the staircase from 30 to 45 degrees - this is the best option for walking. The height of the steps should be approximately 160 cm and the distance between the fence posts should be 150 mm. The side load on the ladder must be maintained in an indicator of at least 100 kg.

We give general requirements, but in your case they may be different, especially since much depends on the size and shape of the structure. Now let's move on to the direct work.

With your own hands, it is quite easy to make a staircase on kosoura, bolts or spiral. It should be noted that the third option is considered the most difficult to implement, since it requires high-precision calculations. The ladder on the bolts is attached directly to the wall and may not be suitable for some types of houses, especially since it requires serious work with the wall. We will focus on the first option - a staircase on kosoura, which is considered a fairly universal type of construction and is suitable for any type of building. In the photo you can see one example of such stairs.

Also, the types of stairs can be divided according to the shape of the structure. If you do not have significant experience in such work, we advise you to stay on a straight one-march - this is the simplest option.

After choosing the type of stairs, be sure to make a drawing. It will be very convenient to use special computer programs (there are a lot of them), where, according to the specified parameters, you will see all the required dimensions of the parts.

Of the material, we need two kosour, which are steel beams of a given length, filly - nodes for fastening steps, the steps themselves and the material for the railing. Having developed the project, you yourself will see the required quantity building material - we cannot give universal advice, since each option is individual. The thickness and type of material should also be selected for each individual case.

Do-it-yourself iron staircase to the second floor, a photo of the manufacture and installation of which we will present in step by step, is made by a welded method, so prepare the appropriate equipment and invite a welder if you do not know how to cook the metal yourself.

So let's get started. First of all, we will deal with the manufacture of fillies for fastening steps. To do this, we need steel corners, which must be cut in accordance with the number of steps on your staircase - two fillets for each step. If you do not find so many corners, you can weld them yourself, but please note that the details must be strictly the same in order to avoid distortions in the future. As a result, you should have a set of L-shaped corners, the long side of which will be the support for the steps, and the short side will be welded vertically to the stringer. Additionally, it is necessary to make a set of crossbeams from corners of appropriate sizes.

Now we markup on one of our kosour and weld filly to them as shown in the figure. Pay attention to the accuracy of the marking and strictly maintained welding angles, so as not to get distortions at the steps. Having made the markings and maintaining the welding angles, we transfer the work to the second stringer and work in a similar way. Be sure to use a building level to check the result.

This stage of work can be carried out both on the already mounted stringers, and without their installation. Do what is most convenient for you. If you are making a small staircase for the interior of the house, then assemble it before installation, and if you need a rather impressive option for installation outside, it is best to mount the stringers right away to avoid further difficulties in the work.

Do-it-yourself metal stairs in the house to the second floor, the installation photo of which we show, should preferably be fixed to steel I-beams - we use these as stringers. The beams are mounted into the wall using powerful fasteners, while it is advisable to use special spacers if possible.

We advise you to make a special platform at the bottom of the stairs. If this is provided for by your project, then it can be made from welded corners that we used to make filly. Legs are welded to the site, which are securely mounted in the concrete floor.

Now we install the stringers. Having made the necessary measurements, we cut off the edge of the beam with a grinder at a given angle. Each stringer must clearly be superimposed by the cut angles on the vertical of the installed support beam. We carry out welding works.

It is better to weld the steps at this stage, because if you do it right away, the structure will be very heavy and it will be inconvenient to attach it to the racks. First of all, we weld transverse steel slats to the filly, which will hold the step. By the way, in some versions of the staircase design, this stage can be skipped and the steel step can be welded directly to the filly.

If you want to install wooden steps on an iron staircase, then immediately provide for screw connection holes in the design. Wood steps must be installed at the very last stage of the work so that the wood does not get damaged during installation.

Pay close attention to the accuracy of welding and compliance with the level. At the moment, your whole structure should be perfectly rigid, so check the horizontal steps with special care.

If the staircase is installed close to the wall, and this is done in the overwhelming majority of cases, pay attention to the distance of the steps from the wall. Consider the fact that you will be doing wall decoration such as wallpapering. When doing this, try to leave a minimum gap.

Fasten the racks (balusters) for the fence with a pitch of 120 - 150 mm. In most cases, tubes are used for this. The upper ends of the tubes are cut at a certain angle so that the railings lie exactly and evenly on the supports. It is recommended to supplement the fence with additional fasteners made of thin tubes, which are welded to the drains parallel to the railing.

If you wish, you can weld a special decor to the fence in the form of ornate steel rods. Of course, such options must be ordered separately, since it is very difficult to make them yourself.

Pay attention to the strength of the fence. The structure should not wobble and under no circumstances should it have sharp, protruding corners. It is better to make more balusters that support the strength of the fence than to face loosening of its individual elements in the future.

You don't have to put a railing under the wall - this does not affect safety, especially since you will be very constrained in space. Although, some models of stairs may require such handrails, so you should focus on each individual case.

Finishing work

Initial finishing work consists in carefully sanding the surface of the stairs. Carefully process all welds and remove the slightest burrs and nicks. After that, we apply a special primer to the metal surface and after waiting for it to dry, we can proceed to painting.

As an additional finish, you can use a variety of decor options. Wooden inserts will look very good. If necessary, this version of the staircase can be repainted at any time or the design of the decor can be changed, which favorably distinguishes metal structures from, for example, completely wooden ones.

Ladder maintenance

This design requires little maintenance. Just check it regularly for damage or paint chips to prevent rust. If you used a reliable frame and installed it correctly, the ladder will serve you for a very long time without the need for major repairs.

If the staircase is installed on the street where you have a rise to the second floor of the house, then you need to be more careful. Regularly inspect the structure for changes in geometry, as sudden temperature changes can adversely affect the metal base. Do not forget about the paint - you need to make sure that even the slightest damage to the coating does not occur.

Now you know how to assemble and install a metal ladder with your own hands. We hope that the material was useful to you and you can easily realize your ideas for decorating the interior of the house.

If there are several floors or levels in a private house or
at the dacha, the question of establishing a connection between them will invariably arise, i.e. installations
stairs. In addition to connecting floors, it allows
equip a lift in the presence of a basement floor, go down to the basement and get
to the attic, the staircase can become the central element of the design of the room, its
zest.

Given all the functions that the ladder performs, many do not
decide to make a staircase with their own hands, but order it from specialized
manufacturers who earn from material, delivery, assembly and
installation. In addition, they lay in the estimate for the installation of a metal
stairs are quite high level of profitability. As testimonials testify
those who decide to install the iron ladder on their own, the overpayment may
make up to 150-200%. Agree, a considerable amount and a good reason to think
about how to build a metal staircase on your own.

Metal staircase to the second floor of the house

The choice in favor of metal is worth making for the following reasons:

reliability and long service life;

the ability to withstand heavy loads (with the correct
design);

strength of metal and joints;

the ability to create a variety of shapes and models of stairs;

the ability to split the work into two stages. First do
frame and move along it while finishing work on the upper floors is underway
or funds are being saved for finishing. Then proceed with the finishing
(cladding) and decor.

no squeak. Metal, unlike wood, does not
it dries up and does not create sounds when resting on a step;

the ability to combine (combine) with different finishing
materials. Firstly, in order to reduce the load on the metal, and secondly,
to give the stairs a beautiful appearance.

Self-made metal stairs, process
labour intensive. However, it is possible to create a simple but reliable design
anyone who dares to do so.

Types and types of metal stairs for the house

Metal staircase to the second floor of a house, cottage, summer residence
can be of any kind. Variety is determined by imagination and design project
interior. At the same time, the structures of metal stairs are limited
certain types, the classification of which is based on several
factors:

Place of installation:

outdoor. External metal ladder allows
significantly save useful space in the house. Metal, for such a staircase
most popular material. Of course, for the transition between floors, street metal
stairs are not the best solution, because they are problematic to operate in
cold season (of course, this is a subjective opinion). But here for the basement
floor or ascent to the attic, it is irreplaceable;

internal. This ladder has its own advantages. She
allows you to move between floors in any weather and can be decorative
element of the interior.

Metal ladder can be applied to anyone
of types, since it is not a stationary product.

Manufacturing methods and methods:

welded. Simple and common way. Make such
DIY ladder can be done by anyone who has the skills to work with welding
apparatus;

forged stairs. Plasticity, a property possessed by
metal, allows craftsmen to make real works of it by forging
art. The frame of such a staircase will be welded or wooden, but the elements
(fences, balusters, railings) must be forged. Forged stairs more
laborious to manufacture, but will always be held in high esteem.

The need for cladding (finishing):

open. In this case, the frame of the stairs remains in sight,
therefore, to his appearance increased requirements will be put forward;

closed. Additional processing is suggested. Often under
a staircase, in order to use the usable area, equip pantries.
The main requirement for this type of ladder is reliability. In closed production
stairs use inexpensive materials. Closing wireframes are considered more
cheap also because they do not require a beautiful fastening.

The principle of the device:

whole. Collected from separate sections. And ready-made
are installed in place. When buying a ladder in sections, there is a chance that
guess with sizes;

prefabricated. Consist of separate type-setting parts and elements.
From the position of installing the stairs with your own hands, this option is more
preferred.

Design feature:

marching. Consist of one or more flights (marches).
Among the subspecies, straight lines and with turns can be distinguished.

A metal staircase with a platform is easier to
workmanship, but with a turn it has a more beautiful appearance.

Note. Turned staircase, in the language of professionals
called a staircase with winders. Differ depending on the angle
turning the steps.

The photo shows a metal staircase with
90 degree steps and 180 degree winder steps

screw. They came to us from the towers of the Middle Ages. In this
case, the flight of stairs is twisted around the central column, which is
carrier.

folding. Most often they are called attic stairs because of their
main scope of use. Allows you to reduce the flight of stairs and save
space.

Frame shape

A ladder on a metal frame can have several
species:

Metal staircase on kosoura. Kosour is
structural element that serves as a support for the steps. Such a frame
is the most durable. There can be one or two kosourov, depending on
design concept and materials used. Due to the shape of the kosour, such
stairs are also called spinal metal stairs.

Note. With a large staircase width
preference should be given to frames with two stringers.

Ladder on metal stringers allows you to create light
and weightless designs. They look especially impressive in finished rooms.
in high-tech or modern style.

Metal ladder on a bowstring. The difference between this species and
previous, consists in the method of fastening the steps. Their ends are not visible behind
frame.

Metal ladder on the bolts. Bolza allow you to create
air structures, in which the main load falls on the wall of the house.

Metal stairs - GOST, SNiP

It should be noted that the standards of GOST, SNiP for stairs from
metal - regulate their arrangement in residential multi-apartment or
administrative buildings. In private construction, they are constantly retreating.
But, for information, we will give all the existing standards.

Metal stairs - drawings and diagrams

How to calculate a metal staircase with your own hands -
a detailed description of the calculations of metal stairs with a platform, with a turn to
90/180 degrees, screw, bolts, stringers, duck step, as well as parameters
- height, width, steps, etc.

Metal stairs to the second floor in a private house

For manufacturing you will need:

grinder (preferably two, for different discs 125 and 250 mm),
saw for metal, welding machine and shield, drill, level, square;

cutting disc for metal, disc for stripping, electrodes,
self-tapping screws,

pipe, channel - for the frame (frame);

metal corner - for steps;

sheet metal - for steps (can be replaced with
wooden board).

Note. Smooth sheet steel in the staircase does not
applies because increases the risk of injury (slippery surface).

The amount of material, as well as its characteristics
determined:

type of stairs;

tilt angle;

the width of the staircase;

the number of steps and their size;

view of further finishing. For example, a tree is lighter, but
the stone is much heavier, and the frame for it needs an appropriate one.

Separately, we note that it will be easier for beginners to use
inverter instead welding machine... This is due to the fact that the inverter
maintains a given current, it is not influenced by the voltage in the network,
burned out or underburned metal during welding. And as you know, both
weakens the weld.

After finding out everything necessary, they calculated and
prepared, we can start to study the technical side of the question how to do
metal ladder. We will illustrate the manufacturing process in several
examples.

DIY metal staircase - step by step instructions

It is important to immediately note that making a staircase from
metal can be done in two ways:

assembled on the ground and installed ready-made. But,
making and installing a metal staircase with your own hands in this way
almost impossible. First, because the structure will have
considerable weight. Additional resources will be required. Secondly,
because there is a great risk of not guessing with the dimensions of the stairs and all the work will be needed
remodel;
assembled in stages from the constituent elements.Option more
reliable, especially for beginners. With this method, all adjustments can be made
in the course of work.

Therefore, we will focus on the second method and describe the installation
metal stairs to the second floor step by step.

1. Determination of the type of stairs. Will it be made on
kosourah, bowstring or bolts.

2. The method of location of the winder steps is selected (90
or 180 degrees).

3. A sketch is created. it necessary condition work. Sketch, s
the dimensions applied to it should always be before your eyes.

4. Metal is purchased and cleaned from corrosion and scale.

5. The material is cut. Cutting metal
is carried out in accordance with the drawing.

Council. It is convenient for work when every detail
marked with chalk, for example. It's easy to get confused in large quantities
different blanks.

By the way, regarding the cutting of all metal, users,
who do the work on their own disagree. One side,
simultaneous cutting increases the speed of work. In addition, you can immediately see
lack or surplus of material. On the other hand, phased cutting allows
avoid mistakes.

6. The metal is washed down. To withstand all angles
It is convenient to wash down with a universal conductor for the grinder.

7. Installation of load-bearing elements of the frame is in progress.

One or two channels (according to the number of stringers) are installed
between floors and welded to the beam. For this, the channel is cut under such
angle so that they rest against the beam (on one side) and the floor (on the other side)
flat part of the cut.

The channel can be welded to the base, as shown in the photo.

It is important to check the correctness of the installation once again
so that later you do not correct defects with braces or redo the work.

Council. Using a pipe instead of a channel will reduce
vibration when climbing stairs.

If you are planning a metal winder staircase with a turn
90 degrees or 180 degrees, you must immediately reconfigure the main
bearing element according to the plan.

Metal staircase with run-in steps 180/90
degrees in the presence of a platform, it is set approximately the same, only the lower
the edge of the upper span and the upper edge of the lower span will abut against
site. Here you need to provide a secure mount.

The mounting method shown in the photo is possible.

8. Blanks are made for steps - braces
(kerchiefs or filly). Usually they are made in the form of a triangle, on which later
stack the steps. Triangle blanks are fastened as follows, first
they are fixed with a spot seam. Use a solid seam to weld workpieces
it is impractical for beginners. It is worth grabbing the metal in several places and
check the part with a square. Only then can the workpieces be firmly connected
together and weld or bolt to the main frame.

The work begins with the first stage device. Then on her
a used board (temporary step) is laid and subsequent braces are mounted.

Metal staircase with run-in steps and a turn to
90 degrees is a bit more difficult to mount. This is due to the fact that the braces for
the stairs are of various configurations. Users are advised to make
every detail after the previous one has been installed.

Note. With a wide enough channel, you can do
without braces, but fix the steps on the supports welded to the metal
bowstring as shown in the photo.

Or install the supports as shown in the photo

9. If desired, to strengthen the frame, on the braces
additional supports are installed (for example, from a steel corner).

10. Seams are cleaned. If the frame is open, then this
the stage should be given special attention.

11. The metal is treated against corrosion. High quality
processing involves:

degreasing (processing with white spirit, solvent,
acetone);

applying a rust converter;

primer.

Steel ladder made of stainless steel in processing and painting is not
needs.

12. The metal of the stairs is painted.

13. The staircase is facing - steps are being installed
and decorative elements. Moreover, the steps can be made of wood, glass,
concrete, stone. Each of the materials puts forward its own requirements for the frame.
For example, corner shelves, when attaching a wooden step, should be
directed downwards, during concreting - upwards and, if necessary, additionally
reinforced.

Metal spiral staircases to the second floor

Interfloor spiral staircases are made of metal
the same way. Difference in more complex material calculation and manufacturing
frame blanks.

Convenient way to make metal spiral staircases
is the use of modular kosour. In order to make it you need
prepare the pipe for the central support. And the pipe is the same length, but large in
diameter for installing steps. The wide pipe is cut into blanks. Length
the workpiece is equal to the step height. Ideally, workpieces should be strung on a pipe
without distortions and backlashes.

Note. If the sleeve does not fit tightly, you can make it under
her seal from a rod of a suitable diameter. Moreover, in the process
manufacture, the bar must be wrapped around the main pipe, and not laid along
inner wall of the sleeve.

Then triangular blanks are made under the steps. Screw
an iron staircase always has triangular steps.

However, it all depends on the preference of the customer.

As a result, such a design may turn out.

Or, if you do not reinforce the structure with additional
elements, here is such a spiral staircase made of metal with your own hands.

Metal ladder "duck step"

For those whose indoor space does not allow the installation
marching staircase, and users do not perceive the spiral staircase, it will be interesting
how to build a metal staircase with duck step steps.

The staircase got its name from the fact that its
paddle steps are installed on opposite sides of the main
guides. In this case, only one foot can be placed on a step.
Moving up a ladder is like rocking a duck. This design
optimal if the slope of the stairs is more than 40 °.

The frame of the staircase will be identical to the marching or spiral staircase, but
the steps will need to be given more attention.

Iron stairs to the second floor with duck step steps
shown in the photo.

Tags: Stairs

You can turn to professionals for help, but keep in mind that they may not attach importance to minor defects during construction, which can subsequently lead to serious damage and subsequent repairs. A self-made staircase to the second floor will give you several advantages:

the result will meet expectations;
will help save money and nerves;
a ladder made by yourself will become your pride.

If you are limited in money for the purchase of materials, you can buy cheaper analogs: instead of wood, use chipboard, which can be varnished or painted.

In pursuit of economy, quality can be overlooked. While a cheap wooden staircase can also last a long time, it will start to creak very soon. In order not to face this trouble, the ladder must be assembled using silicone sealant, which cannot be done without preliminary painting of the parts.

In this article we will talk about how to make a staircase to the second floor with our own hands from wood and metal, and also show photos and video instructions.

For the manufacture of an interfloor staircase, concrete with lining of tiles or marble, metal (a welding machine is required), as well as wood can be used. The last option is the most practical and convenient. The wooden structure is distinguished by its low weight, ease of installation and beautiful appearance.

In the presence of a room with a ceiling height of 2.8 m, it is worth giving preference to straight structures, or with a 25% turn of the staircase. The staircase is made with a length of 80 cm. This option allows you to use the space under the stairs for storing things. It should be noted that there is also a minus: free space on the upper and lower floors will be significantly reduced.

To save precious square meters, a spiral staircase is ideal, but it is also not without its drawbacks:

too steep rise;
small width of stairs.

Installation of a spiral staircase requires 3 m² of free space and a lot of work.

Another variant of the staircase is possible, in which it is located along the wall surface. In this case, it is worth providing for two marches and a turn. Thus, you will make it as compact and comfortable as possible for movement.

Calculation of the dimensions of the stairs. Measure the distance between the floors of the first second floor together with the overlap. This will determine the height of the structure. The step should have a height of 18–20 cm. Further, dividing the height of the stairs by the height of the steps, you get the total number of steps.
Projection of dimensions onto the floor surface. To design a structure, it is necessary to determine the width of the steps (about 30 cm), after which their number must be multiplied by their width. This will give you the projection size.
Manufacturing of staircase elements. To make a kosour, you will need a bar measuring 14 × 16, steps - 4 cm boards, risers - 2.5 cm boards. You yourself will determine the length of the step, remember that the larger it is, the better.
Preliminary fitting. If, during the preliminary fitting of the parts, everything fits, process each element with a grinder and assemble the structure. To fix the parts of the staircase with each other, coat all the places of contact with each other with glue (PVA or carpentry) and additionally fasten with screws.
Stain and varnish. First apply the stain on the surface, and after waiting for it to dry, cover with several layers of varnish.

As a design solution, you can consider mortise steps, which are inserted into the grooves cut in the stringer:

Make markings on the stringer where the steps are to be installed. Using a hacksaw and chisel, cut out the grooves.
Make some 9 mm holes in the center of the groove.
Screw the turbo coupling into the holes.
Install the step into the groove and screw it in.

When buying planed wood, you must consider the following requirements:

there should be no dark spots on the surface;
the presence of cracks, chips, roughness and other defects is unacceptable.

Knots (up to 1 cm in diameter) can only be present if steps or risers are made from the material. Also pay attention to the humidity, the large mass of the board suggests that it is worth abandoning the purchase.

When making a structure without experience, you may encounter certain difficulties, but your desire and desire will help you achieve the desired result.

Now we suggest you familiarize yourself with the technology of making a staircase from wood First of all, it is necessary to make drawings with individual structural details. To do this, take well-dried wood and transfer the appropriate dimensions to it. In this case, several factors should be taken into account:

The strength and reliability of the stairs will completely depend on the correctness of cutting out the stringers. Therefore, their manufacture must be approached responsibly. Moreover, for the kosour, it is necessary to pick up a solid board that does not have large knots in large quantities. The thickness of the board can be 45-50 mm.
The board for the risers can have a thickness of 15–20 mm more than for them on the stringer, and the thickness of the riser is also taken into account. The treads themselves should have a perfectly flat surface with neatly rounded edges. The thickness of the board can be in the range of 30–35 mm.
If you want to make a closed staircase with risers, then their manufacture should also be extremely careful. Its thickness should not be large, 15–20 mm is enough. In this case, the main load will go to the stringers. The risers themselves play the role of support.
As for the balusters and handrails, it is recommended to purchase them ready-made with stationary mounts.

If you have small children at home, then for safety reasons, install 2 balusters on each step. In all other cases, you can install one at a time.

When all the structural blanks are ready, you can proceed to the most crucial stage of work - the installation of the stairs. All subsequent work looks like this:

At the selected place, stringers are mounted. To do this, fix the support bar on the floor, it is on it that the kosour will be attached. At the top, the fastening is carried out into a cut groove in the beam. In some cases, a metal support is used for fastening. In this case, an anchor bolt is used for fastening. In the process of installing the stringer, be sure to check everything by level or plumb line.
Before laying the treads, the risers should be screwed on.

After that, the treads are fixed on the kosoura and on top of the risers with self-tapping screws in the direction from bottom to top.
After that, the balusters are installed.

So, at the top of the stairs and at the bottom, mount the support drains. They will serve as the border of the handrails as well as support the handrail.

In addition, the support legs serve as decorative elements. Therefore, they are often made using wood cutting.

Balusters, in turn, can have different shapes, sizes and mounting methods. Some, for example, are simply screwed on with self-tapping screws, others are mounted in pre-drilled holes. But in any case, the attachment point must be closed with a decorative plug. Further work is as follows:

On top of the installed balusters, attach the railing to the extreme support posts. Optionally, you can install 1 or 2 additional support legs in the middle.
When using two, three or more support posts, instead of balusters between the posts, several boards can be installed parallel to the slope of the stairs.
In the next step, you can start sanding with emery or a sander. After that, paint and varnish is applied.

The first layer acts as an antiseptic against rotting and the appearance of mold / mildew. The structure should dry out, after which you can start the main painting.

The staircase is coated with water-based varnish, hot wax or paint. You can also stain the wood to slightly darken the structure. It all depends on your desire.

Schemes

Video

We bring to your attention a video film, the main character of which is a wooden staircase.

If there are several floors or levels in a private house or dacha, the question of the implementation of the connection between them will invariably arise, i.e. installation of stairs. In addition to the fact that it connects the floors with each other, it allows you to equip the rise in the presence of a basement floor, go down to the basement and get to the attic, the staircase can become the central element of the design of the room, its highlight.

Considering all the functions that the staircase performs, many do not dare to make a staircase with their own hands, but order it from specialized manufacturers who earn money on material, delivery, assembly and installation. In addition, they put a fairly high level of profitability into the estimate for the installation of a metal staircase. As evidenced by the reviews of those who decided to install the iron ladder on their own, the overpayment can be up to 150-200%. Agree, a considerable amount and a good reason to think about building a metal staircase on your own.

Advantages of metal stairs

The choice in favor of metal is worth making for the following reasons:

reliability and long service life;

the ability to withstand heavy loads (with proper design);

strength of metal and joints;

the ability to create a variety of shapes and models of stairs;

the ability to split the work into two stages. First, make a frame and move along it while finishing work on the upper floors is underway or funds are being accumulated for finishing. Then proceed with the finishing (cladding) and decor.

no squeak. Metal, unlike wood, does not dry out and does not create sounds when resting on a step;

the ability to combine (combine) with different finishing materials. Firstly, in order to reduce the load on the metal, and secondly, to give the stairs a beautiful appearance.

Self-production of metal stairs is a laborious process. However, anyone who decides on this can create a simple but reliable design.

Types and types of metal stairs for the house

A metal staircase to the second floor of a house, cottage, summer house can be of any kind. Variety is determined by imagination and interior design project. At the same time, the structures of metal stairs are limited to certain types, the classification of which is based on several factors:

Place of installation:

outdoor. External metal stairs can significantly save useful space in the house. Metal is the most popular material for such a staircase. Of course, for the transition between floors, street metal stairs are not the best solution, because they are problematic to operate in the cold season (of course, this is a subjective opinion). But for the basement floor or ascent to the attic, it is irreplaceable;

internal. This ladder has its own advantages. It allows you to move between floors in any weather and can become a decorative element of the interior.

A metal ladder can be of any type, since it is not a stationary product.

Manufacturing methods and methods:

welded. Simple and common way. Anyone who has the skills to work with a welding machine can make such a ladder with their own hands;

forged stairs. Plasticity, a property possessed by metal, allows craftsmen to make real works of art from it by forging. The frame of such a staircase will be welded or wooden, but the elements (fences, balusters, railings) must be forged. Forged stairs are more laborious to manufacture, but will always be held in high esteem.

The need for cladding (finishing):

open. In this case, the frame of the stairs remains in sight, therefore, increased requirements will be put forward to its appearance;

closed. Additional processing is suggested. Often, under the stairs, in order to use the usable area, pantries are equipped. The main requirement for this type of ladder is reliability. In the production of a closed staircase, inexpensive materials are used. Closing frames are also considered cheaper because they do not require a beautiful fastening.

The principle of the device:

whole. Collected from separate sections. And in finished form are installed in place. When buying a staircase in sections, there is a chance not to guess with the dimensions;

prefabricated. Consist of separate type-setting parts and elements. From the position of installing the stairs with your own hands, this option is more preferable.

Design feature:

marching. Consist of one or more flights (marches). Among the subspecies, straight lines and with turns can be distinguished.

A metal staircase with a platform is easier to manufacture, and with a turn it has a more beautiful appearance.

Note. A staircase with a turn, in the language of professionals is called a staircase with winders. They differ depending on the angle of rotation of the steps.

The photo shows a metal staircase with 90-degree winders and 180-degree winders

screw. They came to us from the towers of the Middle Ages. In this case, the flight of stairs is twisted around the central column, which is the bearing.

folding. They are more commonly referred to as attic stairs due to their primary use. Reduce flights of stairs and save space.

Frame shape

A ladder on a metal frame can have several types:

Metal staircase on kosoura. Kosour is a structural element that serves as a support for the steps. This frame is the most durable. There may be one or two kosourov, depending on the design concept and materials used. Due to the shape of the kosour, such stairs are also called spinal metal stairs.

Note. With a significant width of the flight of stairs, preference should be given to frames with two kosoura.

A staircase on metal braids allows you to create light and weightless structures. They look especially impressive in rooms with high-tech or modern finishes.

Metal ladder on a bowstring. The difference between this type and the previous ones lies in the method of fastening the steps. Their ends are not visible behind the frame.

Metal ladder on the bolts. Bolts allow you to create air structures in which the main load falls on the wall of the house.

Metal stairs - GOST, SNiP

It should be noted that the GOST, SNiP standards for metal stairs regulate their arrangement in residential multi-apartment or office buildings. In private construction, they are constantly retreating. But, for information, we present all existing standards.

Interfloor staircases are made mainly of wood, concrete and metal. The technological properties possessed by metal make it possible to manufacture a staircase of any design, at the same time reliable, aesthetically pleasing and lightweight.

The construction of a simple single-march metal staircase to the second floor is a feasible task if you have skills in such a matter as metal welding. It is more difficult to make a two-march structure with a platform, but did not the gods burn the pots?

General requirements

The design features of stairs made of metal, wood or concrete are no different. The design and calculation principles for interfloor structures made of different materials are the same, and the typical requirements for them do not differ:

In private households, the minimum staircase width should be 900 mm.
The slope of one flight of stairs must be constant. The optimal tilt angles are shown in the diagram.
The optimal step height is 160-180 mm.
The minimum allowed step depth is 270 mm.
The guardrail must withstand a side load of 100 kg.
The maximum permitted distance between the fence posts is 150 mm (for a family with children - 120 mm).

Types of metal stairs

By the manufacturing method, welded and forged stairs are distinguished.

Structurally, metal stairs are:

Important! You can calculate and make with your own hands all the named types of metal stairs, however, the most difficult will be the screw version, both in terms of design and manufacture of structural elements. It is advisable to entrust the design and construction of a spiral metal staircase to professionals.

Distinguish between marching metal staircases, one- and two-span, straight and with a turn. If you lack experience, it is better to start with a straight one-march design.

Calculations

Design organizations use computer programs to create a 3D model of the structure. In such a model, it is easy to change the parameters of individual elements. After approval of the final version, the computer prepares the working drawings and the specification of the metal ladder.

We will have to do the calculations without the help of the program. Let's consider the simplest design option - direct one-march. We know the typical requirements for the depth and height of steps. We take measurements between two points: from the start point to the end point of the stairs at the level of the "clean" floor of the first floor (we denote this value by a) and the height between the "clean" floor of the first and second floors (b). We got that a \u003d 4000 mm, b \u003d 2500 mm. It remains to determine the length of the stairs. Remember that the optimum tilt angle is 30 ° - 45 °.

In a right-angled triangle, the square of the hypotenuse (this is the length of the stairs) is equal to the sum of the squares of the two legs. Our legs are 4000 mm and 2500 mm. We consider, we extract the square root and we get a length equal to 4720 mm.

We select the optimal number of steps. With this height, there can be 14 (the step height will be 179 mm) or 15 (167 mm). Both options are within the size limits. We choose the option with 14 steps and check their depth. We divide 4000 mm by 14 and get 286 mm. And this size suits us (the depth should not be less than 270 mm). The size of the steps - 286 mm - will be increased by the width of the so-called overhang. The overhang is the part of the upper step that hangs over the lower one. The optimal overhang size is 30-40 mm.

We got the basic dimensions that we need to determine the amount of materials. For two kosour, we need a square profile pipe 2 x 4720 mm. From the corners, which for reliability we can reinforce with fittings, we will weld the supports for the steps (filly). The steps and risers themselves are made of 4-mm sheet steel and sheathed with wood.

Equipment, tools and materials

To build an interfloor metal structure, we need:

Important! We have determined the amount of required material. Please note that the sheet steel for the steps must be anti-slip, for example extruded grating can be used.

Manufacturing of a metal staircase with two stringers

We observe the following sequence in work:

Cutting workpieces.
Making filly (knots for fastening steps).
Welding of support corners.
Installation of stringers.
Welding of steps and fences.
Grinding.
Priming and painting.

First, from the corners we make nodes for fastening steps (filly). It is important not to make a mistake here, distortions and inaccuracies will ruin the stairs. The filly should be identical and mirrored to each other. We make filly from a steel corner: cut out the samples, join the corners together. As a result, L-shaped welded assemblies should be obtained with shelves down and inward (with shelves up and in, fillets are welded for concrete steps, as well as for decorating them ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware). Our design will require 14 pairs of such nodes - in each pair, one support will be left, the second right. We weld brackets for fastening the steps and a crossbar between each pair of corners. We also make a crossbar from a corner. Strength can also be increased with the help of small kerchiefs, which are installed at the bottom of the step in the direction of each stringer.

We make markings along the edge of the profile square pipe and weld the filly to the edge of the stringer along it. We attach the second to the first stringer with welded filly, and accurately transfer the markings. So we get a clear geometry of all elements.

Council. For a metal staircase to the second floor with a width of more than 1200 mm, it is advisable to install a third stringer in the middle of the structure.

Our width is 900 mm, and two stringers are enough for us. We weld the filly to the second stringer. We check them by level. Then we weld the stringers with the lower end to the support platform. In houses with concrete base the support platform can be installed in concrete. We fasten the upper end to the support post, which is fixed to the floor between the floors with steel anchors. Once again we check the filly by level.

If the metal ladder is made in a wall-mounted version, to give the structure additional rigidity, one stringer can be welded to the brackets fixed to the wall.

The last stage is welding the steps to the filly. You can also fasten them with bolts, in this case they must be sheathed with wood. Another option is to install wooden steps directly onto the filly using screw connections.

The top step is installed at a minimum distance from the wall. It is necessary that a sheet of wallpaper passes between the wall and the step - finishing work is ahead. The railing is welded to the side of the metal ladder so as not to reduce its width.

All structural elements at the welding points are ground (seams, notches, burrs), then metal particles are swept away with a metal brush, the metal ladder is primed (using a metal primer) and painted in the selected color. Wooden steps are installed after the paint has dried.

It is advisable to decorate a metal staircase to the second floor, including covering the steps with wood, at the stage of finishing work in the house.

Despite the seeming simplicity, the work on the construction of an interfloor structure made of metal requires care and accuracy. Well-executed welding works guarantee a long service life of the structure. It will keep the metal of all staircase elements and the anti-corrosion coating for a long time.

Having built a solid and reliable frame, you will eventually be able to decorate it with wood, ceramic tiles, stainless steel fencing parts and other finishing materials to your liking. And the structure, which at the construction stage seemed bulky and unpresentable, will acquire a wonderful appearance.

The main argument in favor of building a metal staircase to the second floor with your own hands is saving very significant funds that will be useful to you for other work in the house.