Homemade solar collector in winter. DIY solar collector - cheap heat for home heating! The generated energy is used for

But the principle of water heating is identical - all devices work according to one developed scheme... In good weather, the rays of the sun begin to heat the coolant. It passes through thin graceful tubes, falling into a tank with liquid. The coolant and tubes are placed over the entire inner surface of the tank. Thanks to this principle, the liquid in the apparatus is heated. Later, heated water is allowed to be used for domestic needs. Thus, you can heat the room, use the heated liquid for shower cabins as hot water supply.

The water temperature can be monitored by the developed sensors. If the liquid has cooled too much, below the set level, then a special backup heating will automatically turn on. solar collector can be connected to an electric or gas boiler.

An operating diagram is shown that is suitable for all solar water heaters. Such a device is perfect for heating a small private house. To date, several devices have been developed: flat, vacuum and air devices. The principle of operation of such devices is very similar. The heat carrier is heated from the sun's rays with further energy release. But there are many differences at work.

Videos about different types of alternative heating sources

Flat collector

Heating of the coolant in such a device is due to the plate absorber. It is a flat plate of heat-absorbing metal. The upper surface of the plate is in a dark shade with a specially developed paint. A serpentine tube is welded to the bottom of the device.

The rise in the cost of traditional energy sources prompts the owners of private houses to look for alternative options for heating housing and heating water. Agree, the financial component of the issue will play an important role when choosing a heating system.

One of the most promising energy supply methods is the conversion of solar radiation. For this, solar systems are used. Understanding the principle of their structure and the mechanism of operation, making a solar collector for heating with your own hands will not be difficult.

We will tell you about the design features of solar systems, offer a simple assembly scheme and describe the materials that can be used. The stages of work are accompanied by visual photographs, the material is supplemented with video clips on the creation and commissioning of a self-made collector.

Modern solar systems are one of the sources of heat. They are used as auxiliary heating equipment that converts solar radiation into energy useful to home owners.

They are able to fully provide hot water supply and heating in the cold season only in southern regions... And then, if they occupy a sufficiently large area and are installed in open areas not shaded by trees.

Despite the large number of varieties, they have the same principle of operation. Any is a circuit with a sequential arrangement of devices that supply heat energy and transfer it to the consumer.

The main working elements are either solar collectors. The technology on photographic plates is somewhat more complicated than that of a tubular collector.

In this article, we will consider the second option - a collector solar system.

Solar collectors still serve as auxiliary energy suppliers. It is dangerous to completely switch the heating of the house to the solar system due to the inability to predict a clear number of sunny days

Collectors are a system of tubes connected in series with the outlet and inlet mains or laid out in the form of a coil. Process water, an air stream or a mixture of water with an anti-freeze liquid circulate through the pipes.

Circulation is stimulated by physical phenomena: evaporation, changes in pressure and density from the transition from one state of aggregation to another, etc.

The collection and accumulation of solar energy is carried out by absorbers. It is either a solid metal plate with a blackened outer surface or a system of individual plates attached to tubes.

For the manufacture of the upper part of the body, the cover, materials with a high ability to transmit light flux are used. It can be plexiglass, similar polymer materials, hardened types of traditional glass.

In order to eliminate energy losses from the rear side of the device, thermal insulation is placed in the box

I must say that polymeric materials do not tolerate the influence of ultraviolet rays quite well. All types of plastic have a fairly high coefficient thermal expansion, which often leads to depressurization of the case. Therefore, the use of such materials for the manufacture of the collector body should be limited.

Water as a heat carrier can only be used in systems designed to supply additional heat in the autumn / spring period. If you plan to use the solar system all year round, before the first cold snap, the technical water is changed to a mixture of it with antifreeze.

If the solar collector is installed to heat a small building that has no connection with autonomous heating a cottage or with centralized networks, a simple single-circuit system with a heating device at the beginning is being built.

The chain does not include circulation pumps and heating devices. The circuit is extremely simple, but it can only work on a sunny summer.

When the collector is included in a double-circuit technical structure, everything is much more complicated, but the range of days suitable for use is significantly increased. The manifold processes only one circuit. The predominant load is assigned to the main heating unit, which runs on electricity or any type of fuel.

Home craftsmen invented a cheaper option - a spiral heat exchanger from.

An interesting budget solution is a solar system absorber made of a flexible polymer pipe. Suitable fittings are used to connect to devices at the inlet and outlet The choice of available means from which you can make a solar collector heat exchanger is quite wide. This can be the heat exchanger of an old refrigerator, polyethylene water pipes, steel panel radiators, etc.

An important criterion of efficiency is the thermal conductivity of the material from which the heat exchanger is made.

For self-production, copper is the best option. It has a thermal conductivity of 394 W / m². For aluminum, this parameter varies from 202 to 236 W / m².

However, there is a big difference in the parameters of thermal conductivity between copper and polypropylene pipes does not mean at all that a heat exchanger with copper pipes will produce hundreds of times large volumes of hot water.

Under equal conditions, the performance of a copper pipe heat exchanger will be 20% more efficient than the performance of metal-plastic options. So heat exchangers made of polymer pipes have the right to exist. In addition, such options are much cheaper.

Regardless of the pipe material, all connections, both welded and threaded, must be tight. The pipes can be placed both parallel to each other and in the form of a coil.

The coil-type circuit reduces the number of connections - this reduces the likelihood of leaks and provides a more even flow of the coolant flow.

The top of the box in which the heat exchanger is located is covered with glass. Alternatively, you can use modern materials such as acrylic analog or monolithic polycarbonate. The translucent material may not be smooth, but corrugated or matte.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Elementary solar collector manufacturing process:

How to assemble and commission a solar system:

Naturally, a self-made solar collector cannot compete with industrial models. Using materials at hand, it is quite difficult to achieve the high efficiency that industrial designs have. But the financial costs will be much less compared to the purchase of ready-made installations.

Alternative heat sources, although they are quite efficient and economical in operation, cannot fully occupy a niche. The reason is the high cost, which differs from traditional heating sources at times. So, for example, a solar collector of a standard type with an absorption area of \u200b\u200b1.66 sq. m. will cost an average of $ 3,000, taking into account the installation costs and the cost of the equipment itself, while the simplest boiler - 15,000 rubles, including installation and piping. There is only one way out - to make a solar collector with your own hands, for which materials that are quite affordable can be used. How to do it right and in what sequence - in our article.

Principle of operation

The operation of this unit is based on the absorption of solar thermal energy and its transfer to the coolant with virtually no loss. Energy is received by the so-called. a receiver, which are metal tubes painted black or dark brown. The coolant is water, in very rare cases - air.

Dark color It is used to enhance absorption, since it is it that allows intense heat accumulation.

Based on the design features, the following types of solar collectors are distinguished:

• air;
• water.

In turn, water collectors are divided into:

• vacuum;
• flat.

Regardless of the design, all collectors, in fact, are a simple metal panel enclosed in a sealed box that receives, accumulates and transfers thermal energy.

To enhance heat transfer, the receiver is equipped with ribs, and the box itself is insulated with special materials. The front side is presented in the form of transparent glass, excluding the retention of solar energy, on the sides there is an opening with a flange, where either another panel or an air outlet can be connected.

Solar collector diagram:

Installation of solar collectors is rational only in case of using several panels. Heat transfer from one will be minimal. A powerful fan is needed to blow warm air from the collector, since it will not move by itself.

The schematic diagram of the air system is shown in the figure below:

Scheme of work

It is very simple to make such a collector, but “homemade products”, even in the amount of several copies, will not provide the house with the necessary volume of hot water, especially in cloudy weather. In order for the house to have not only heating, but also hot water supply, we recommend installing it. Which one to choose for a summer residence - you will find out in the corresponding article.

Flat water manifold

This is the simplest type of equipment that is easy to do with your own hands, even without preliminary preparation. In this case, the body is made of metal or aluminum, where a heat sink is inserted - a plate with an embedded copper coil. The plate is coated in black to enhance absorption, and regular glass is used as a cover. On the bottom side, there is thermal insulation on a plate, which acts as an interlayer between the receiver and the bottom of the case.

The design of this type of collector includes the following elements:

1. Receiver is a black-painted plate that absorbs heat and transfers it to the coolant.
2. Glass is designed to perform 3 tasks at once:

• protection from wind, precipitation and debris;
• exclusion of weathering of heat from the box;
• passing ultraviolet rays to the receiver.

The entire structure must be completely sealed, otherwise the heat will escape through the cracks and the remaining volume will not be enough to heat the coolant.

Given the simplicity of the design and the minimum of materials, this type is the most popular and advantageous in terms of price-quality ratio.

It is advisable to use these types of heaters only in the southern and southeastern regions, where the number of sunny days exceeds 60% per year. With a decrease in temperature, the efficiency of the heater is reduced to a minimum due to high heat losses through the body.

How to make yourself

Before proceeding with the actual manufacture, it is necessary to determine the size of the future unit. Here acts golden Rule - the bigger, the better. It is clear that the size of the collector will be limited by the roof area, but it is better to use it to the maximum so that this heater becomes a truly effective alternative equipment.

Wood with a minimum heat transfer coefficient is best suited for the device body. Thermal insulation should be placed on the box layer. It can be a mineral wool or polystyrene with a layer of at least 5-7 cm. An ordinary window glass is used as a cover - the thickness in this case is not important. The most simple material for the future collector will be an old window frame with preserved glass. The only thing that is required of you is to make a receiver and a coil.

How to make a manifold from a balcony door:

The list of materials for the receiver is very extensive, but the most popular are:

• copper thin-walled tube that bends easily and takes any desired shape;
• polymer pipes with a thin wall and small diameter;
• polyethylene pipes for a water supply system of a minimum diameter;
• heat exchanger from a used refrigerator;
• panel radiator;
• regular garden hose.

Any of the listed materials must be painted black. We repeat, this is necessary for an increased and accelerated accumulation of solar thermal energy and its transfer to the coolant.

Some craftsmen manage to use the most inappropriate materials for the receiver, from PVC bottles to beer or Coca-Cola cans. This is not the most rational solution, which will provide only 25-30% of heat transfer.

Manufacturing process

Assemble a wooden case without a top cover. On the bottom you put thermal insulation - mineral wool, polystyrene, polystyrene, etc., close it on top with a metal sheet, which should correspond in area to the dimensions of the wooden case. This is the base of the receiver and should be painted black.

Copper tubes are the most suitable option because they have a high degree of heat transfer.

Fasten the tubes to the base with metal brackets, screw them with wire, or choose another method that is acceptable for yourself. Lead outside the box 2 fittings to which water will be supplied.

Considering that this type is called flat, it is closed hermetically with glass. There should be no gaps, no crevices, no loose flap anywhere.

The glass can be replaced with a transparent cellular polycarbonate, which is more resistant to precipitation, will not break in a rainstorm or hail, and will not burst during heavy snowfall.

After the entire structure is assembled, install it on the roof at an angle of 30-450 and connect it to a container with water by means of fittings. If we are talking about a small volume of the tank, it is possible to create a natural circulation of water, but it is better to install a circulation pump, which ensures the forced movement of water in a closed system.

Operation of solar collector with circulation pump:

Solar collectors are one of the few types of heating equipment, the operation of which does not cost the owners even a few cents. Using solar energy for home heating and water heating is ideal for those who are accustomed to using the budget rationally.

Unfortunately, this method is not suitable for everyone. In the northern, western and eastern regions, such an acquisition is impractical due to the small number of sunny days. But for residents of the southern regions, this option is ideal, the main thing is the optimal thermal insulation of the case. In this case, we can even talk about heating the house during the cold season.

DIY solar collector - overview, piping:

POLYCARBONATE SOLAR COLLECTOR

I have long thought of doing in the country solar collector for heating water in a summer shower. This idea appeared two years ago, with the beginning of the construction of the bathhouse, but only last year I started its practical implementation. Ask: "What have I done before?" And I was looking for which implementation option to choose. Now it's even funny to remember what my initial plan was.

The most common and probably the most reliable option for homemade solar water heaters is a collector soldered from copper pipes (the diagram is just above). I also originally thought to do just that. But the problem is that it turns out to be too expensive and rather heavy. My task was to make the cheapest and lightest design possible.

That is why I stopped at the option of using sheet cellular polycarbonate as a working surface. The development of the idea of \u200b\u200busing plastic panels with an internal channel structure began with the idea of \u200b\u200busing PVC siding, but then polycarbonate caught my eye - it does not need to be "recruited" from several boards. My confidence in the correctness of the material chosen for the solar collector began to strengthen when, in the comments to the description of my test designs, readers began to suggest using cellular polycarbonate or polypropylene. And recently I also on the Internet our description of several similar operating solar heaters.

So, the course for the manufacture of a plastic solar collector has been chosen. Let's get down to implementation.

First of all, I decided for myself that my collector would be assembled without using glass. I am going to use the same material for the windscreen as for the work surface, i.e. cellular polycarbonate.

This is a transparent material, the light transmission is good enough, so I don't think it will greatly reduce the efficiency of the structure compared to glass. But I see a lot of advantages of such a replacement for the front glass. Due to the fact that the polycarbonate is actually two-layer, this will be equivalent to double glazing. This will help create a great greenhouse effect.

The second plus of polycarbonate is strength. He easily tolerates large hail. Even if the frontal coating suffers during hail, this destruction will not in any way affect the operation of the system as a whole. And of course, the consequences will not be as catastrophic as with broken glass.

We decided on the front cover. The next important element of the solar collector is the rear thermal insulation. I decided to use regular foam sheet for this. The reasons for this choice: lightness and cheapness. Some manufacturers use the same cellular polycarbonate or polypropylene as the back insulation. The solution is of course elegant, the collector is thin. But personally it seems to me that it will be a little more expensive. In addition, at my dacha I already had a sheet of polystyrene of a suitable size - it remained from the days of the house insulation.

The next step is to decide on the thickness of the material that will be used as a collector. On sale there are sheets from 4 to 25 mm. Some advise to “take more”, citing the fact that the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bthe internal channels through which the liquid will circulate will be larger, which reduces the resistance to flow. But a simple calculation for a sheet with a thickness of 4 mm gives us the total cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bthe channels in the region of 35 square centimeters per linear meter - this is equivalent to the cross-section of a pipe with a diameter of 6-7 cm. I don’t know about you, but this cross-section is more than enough for me. In addition, one more thing should be remembered: the greater the thickness of the worksheet, the greater the volume of the internal channels, i.e. the more the coolant will fit there, and it will have a greater weight and this weight will deform our system. A collector made of a 4 mm thick polycarbonate sheet will fit about 3-4 liters per 1 square meter, and if you take a 10 mm sheet, then there will already be about 10 liters of heat carrier in it per 1 square meter. And even a large volume of coolant will be warmed up by the sun longer.

In short, I decided to use 4 mm thick cellular polycarbonate. Two sheets of 210x100 cm were bought. One - for the working surface, the second - for frontal protection.

By the way, even at the stage of thinking about the project, I decided to make a solar collector with an area of \u200b\u200babout 2 square meters. For such an area, I needed two meter-long lengths of a solid 12-meter sheet, which sell cellular polycarbonate. The width of a standard sheet is 210 cm - it just suits me.

There were several more options. For example, it would be possible to make two 1x1 meter solar collectors, they will be easier to transport. I did not do this because of the increase in the amount of work to assemble two collectors instead of one. In addition, I have an assembly site and a place for future operation - the same summer cottage, I don't have to think about how to transport a hefty structure.

It would also be possible to make a vertically oriented collector with a size of 1x2 meters, but in this case we would reduce the total cross-section of the internal channels of the collector (2 times), and also increase their length (also 2 times), which would approximately 4 times increase resistance to the flow of the coolant and would reduce the efficiency of the system, in comparison with a horizontally oriented collector 2x1 m.

To assemble and connect the collector, I also bought:

PVC sewer pipes. Diameter - 32 mm. Length - 2 m.

Plugs for these pipes

Polypropylene plumbing fittings with metal thread

Flexible hoses with threaded connection

Sewer pipes were chosen instead of water pipes. they have a larger diameter and thinner walls - it will be easier to cut the pipe lengthwise. Considering that the collector will not work under pressure, the strength of such a pipe is quite sufficient.

Standard plugs for sewer pipes will be used for their intended purpose - they will close the pipes from one side.

Polypropylene threaded corners were selected right in the store so that their outer diameter was as close as possible to the inner diameter of the pipes. They just need to be planted on the sealant.

It would be possible to use a corner for sewer pipes, but then you would still have to think about how to reliably connect the manifold connection hose to it. And with these plumbing corners, I "kill two cockroaches with one slipper" - and I will draw a conclusion and a collapsible connection for connection. You ask, “Why corners? Why not a direct conclusion? " Well, the hoses from the passive solar collector will go up to the heat accumulator, which should be located above the collector. Corners to avoid bending the hoses later.

All other materials will be purchased as needed.

We start assembling the collector. It is necessary to make a longitudinal cut in the supply and outlet pipes. A sheet of cellular polycarbonate will be inserted into this cut. Water will flow from the lower pipe into the channels of this sheet, where it will be heated by the sun and, under the influence of the thermosiphon effect, rise up. The heated water is discharged through the upper pipe.

It should look something like this:

To make a longitudinal cut in the pipe, I used a conventional drill with a circular saw attachment. An angle grinder (grinder) can also be used, but I simply did not have one at hand.

At first I tried to make a cut by holding the pipe with my hands, but it turned out to be almost impossible to do. The pipe slides in your hands and is constantly twitching due to the force generated by the saw. I suffered for 5 minutes, having cut through only 10-15 centimeters during this time. The cut turned out to be uneven, and given that I had to cut a total of 4 meters (two pipes of 2 meters each), I had to invent something.

Clamping thin-walled PVC pipes in a vise is a bad idea. Therefore, the simplest clamp of two slats and pieces of rope was invented and hastily assembled.

This photo also shows the poor quality of the cut obtained when holding the pipe by hand.

With this fit, work went much faster. We managed to cut two pipes in 5 minutes.

The cut quality was also quite satisfactory. It can be seen that it is much smoother compared to the cut, which was made when the pipe was held by hand.

The length of the cut must exactly match the width of the working part of the future solar collector. In my case, this is a little less than 2 meters. The beginning and end of the pipe must remain intact so that they can be used for connection or plugged in the future.

What should be done next, I think, is clear to everyone. It is necessary to insert a sheet of cellular polycarbonate into this cut. But there is one complication here. Due to internal stress in the plastic, the cut in the pipe simply "collapsed" almost along its entire length. This can be seen in the photo. It turned out to be difficult to insert a sheet into such a gap. We could have expanded it so that even after this collapse we still have a width of 4 mm, but I decided not to. By widening the cut, we will reduce the pipe diameter in the middle part. And if you leave everything as it is, then the forces of internal stress in the plastic will compensate for the small pressure inside the collector. Also, thanks to this, the pipe will hold on to the sheet more tightly.

To drive a sheet of polycarbonate into a cut in a pipe, I simply cut the end of the pipe with a clerical knife:

And then through this cut he simply "pulled" the pipe onto the sheet.

Next, you need to make a small adjustment. The main task is to keep the pipe straight, and the cellular polycarbonate does not go too deep into the pipe. Here's what I got (it's not the light at the end of the tunnel, it's the light at the end of the pipe)

You can also see in the pictures that the sheets of cellular polycarbonate are tightened on both sides with a protective film. I decided not to take it off to protect it from damage and contamination. I will take it off before painting.

Now we proceed to one of the most critical stages of the solar collector assembly. It is necessary to seal the joint between the working surface and the pipes. Craftsmen from Western sites use different silicone sealants for this, but to be honest, I have big doubts about the strength of such a connection. Although my collector will not experience the pressure of the main water supply system, I would still like to be sure that it will not leak. Moreover, I have already experimented with different sealants.

As a result, I chose hot melt glue for gluing and sealing the solar collector. I bought a hot glue gun, sticks of glue for plastic and more.

The sealing process was surprisingly simple. However, the consumption of glue sticks could be less. I just didn't feel sorry for the glue. I went through the joints in two passes. First, I tried to drive the melted hot melt glue into the joint so that it filled all the cracks, and with the second run I formed an even outer seam that would hold the load. On the ends, the glue also did not save.

At first, I had doubts whether the hot melt glue would hold the PVC-polycarbonate joint well. So to test, I first glued a small piece of polycarbonate to the PVC pipe. I'll tell you honestly - then I barely tore it off. Now my main doubt is whether the hot melt glue will soften when the collector heats up

The next step will be painting. For better absorption of solar energy, I decided to paint the collector with regular matte spray paint.

Unfortunately this method is not ideal. The paint is uneven, poorly painted areas remain. In addition, one can (though incomplete) was not enough for me for 2 square meters of surface. Later I had to buy another can of paint. It turned out to be based on a different solvent, so when applying the second layer for dense painting, it began to warp the old paint. In short, the result was not very good.

Therefore, if you want to avoid unnecessary problems with painting the solar collector, it is better to use not transparent polycarbonate as the material of the working surface, like mine, but black opaque honeycomb polypropylene. It does not have to be painted, which will significantly reduce costs.

After complete staining, the absorbing panel of the collector acquired the following appearance:

Spots on the surface are traces of blooming paint. The swelling happened due to the fact that I poured paint from different cans on the panel. One paint was on an alkyd base, and the second - which is "not on friendly terms" with alkyd paint. But for the heating process, this swelling does not matter, so I did not bother to correct it.

After painting, threaded corners were attached to the ends of the pipes with the same hot melt glue.

Threaded corners make it easy to connect and disconnect the manifold using flexible reinforced hoses.

After that, I decided to conduct a series of tests to check how the manifold will hold pressure and temperature. So far, the results are not very pleasing to me, but let's talk about everything in order.

For testing, I simply put the manifold vertically and fed it with water from the mains through the downpipe. The transparent polypropylene on the back allows you to control the filling process. As soon as the manifold was completely filled and water started pouring out through the top pipe, the water supply to the manifold was stopped. The disadvantage of this method is that it creates a higher water pressure at the bottom of the collector and there is practically no pressure at the top.

The first filling of the manifold with water showed that there are several leaks in the adhesive joint between pipes and polycarbonate. Moreover, the leaks were found at the top, where the pressure was low. We turn off the panel, drain the water, dry it, eliminate the leak points.

The second connection - nothing flows anywhere. To create pressure in the area of \u200b\u200bthe upper pipe, I simply raised the end of the discharge flexible hose higher. There was a leak again. We turn off the panel, drain the water, dry it, eliminate the leak points.

Third connection. Then I plucked up the courage and decided to create increased pressure in the panel to check if it could withstand the water pressure in the water supply system. To create pressure, I simply closed the outlet tube with my finger. The air remaining in the manifold was supposed to serve as a shock absorber for a smooth increase in pressure. As the pressure increased, it became more difficult to hold the finger, and then the glue seam at the lower pipe burst.

Conclusions: the collector holds a slightly increased pressure, but you should not be impudent. We turn off the panel, drain the water, dry it, eliminate the points ... there is no longer a point, but whole sections of leakage.

To strengthen the seam, I decided to make it much THICKER. A large amount of hot melt glue was placed in the seam area with a glue gun, and then all this was melted and leveled with an old Soviet hammer soldering iron.

A building hair dryer could have been used for this job, but I just didn't have one.

After much suffering, the seam turned out like this.

Ugly, of course, but the main thing is to hold on. Another test revealed only one small leak, which was quickly repaired. By this time, my mood was no longer the most rosy - optimism about the strength of the seams faded somewhat. Therefore, I did not check the panel for high pressure, so as not to get upset even more.

The test of the empty panel in the bright sun did not add to my optimism either. In less than a minute, the collector was heated to such a state that it became painful to touch it. The glue on the seams on the sunny side also softened very quickly. It is clear that there can be no question of any strength of the seam in such a situation. If, in operating mode, the water in the collector is heated to the same high temperature or circulation is disturbed, most likely the seams will not withstand. Here, apparently, you need to take some more refractory hot melt glue.

Anyway. I gave up on all these failures - after all, this is an experiment. I decided to finish the assembly of the solar collector. And if it doesn't work out, I will disassemble and make a collector according to a different scheme.

I put a 5 cm thick sheet of ordinary foam plastic under the collector panel. And on top I covered it all with another sheet of transparent polycarbonate. The polycarbonate was a little wider, so I just bent the edges and subsequently screwed them to the foam with screws

To make the frame, I used a metal plasterboard profile. The profile was chosen based on the estimated size of the "sandwich" of the solar collector. I have a profile of either 70x30, or 70x40, but as it turned out, I could have taken a little more, for example 70x70.

Holes were cut in the profile in the most unceremonious way to bring out the connection points of the solar collector.

A little sloppy, but those scissors for metal that were at my fingertips, otherwise they were simply not allowed to do

The frame was assembled with screws, which are designed to fasten such metal profiles. The result is such a product.

As you can see in the photo, I had to additionally “pull together” the horizontal sections of the frame together. Without this tie, they didn't want to keep in shape. All the same, a too thin metal profile of a long length was chosen for the frame.

And here is how the collector looks from the back side.

The last two photos show the manifold on the "test bench" It was completely filled with water and stood there for about an hour. There were no leaks anywhere. This is encouraging.

Let's see how it will show itself after connection in real working conditions.

Do-it-yourself polycarbonate solar collector how to assemble and make

We build a solar collector for the greenhouse ourselves

When the sun hides, a normal greenhouse cools down. The temperature drops sharply in the structure. Solar greenhouses are designed in such a way that they provide a stable temperature for a long time. This is achieved due to the use of special equipment and thermal insulation materials that provide heating of the greenhouse using solar energy.

The use of solar collectors helps to heat the greenhouse even in bad weather conditions, when the ambient temperature is down to -25 ° C.

Benefits of solar collectors

As a special option, the greenhouse is heated with a solar collector. To get the effect of the work of collectors, they are made from special heat-insulating materials. A reliable sealing of all elements of the system is created to obtain a full vacuum.

If you use such heating elements, you can heat the greenhouse even in bad weather conditions, when the ambient temperature is up to -25 ° C. In such a temperature range, it is possible to cultivate crops throughout the year and get high yields. But the temperature drops significantly, and also extends beyond the operating range.

To solve this issue, a heating ten or a heat pump is used. The result is a complete combined type of greenhouse heating system that has almost no competitors in this area of \u200b\u200bapplication.

The direction of solar collectors is now a promising direction, and their cost is constantly decreasing. The difference between the solar energy consumed by the collector is environmental friendliness and free of charge. The system is able to provide heating of polycarbonate greenhouses and any other.

In the greenhouse heating system, the main heat carrier is water. Some systems can use air, but significantly less efficiency is obtained. Compared to water, air has a lower heat capacity.

How to create such a greenhouse with your own hands

The collector can be made by hand. This design is simple, and in the form of elements of a homemade collector, a copper coil from old refrigerators or ordinary one and a half liter plastic bottles are used.

By using a solar collector, you can significantly save material costs.

You can effectively use the parameters of the bottle itself in such collectors. Its ability to collect reflected sunlight allows an additional thermal insulation layer to be created without turning behind the sun. The air circulating in the bottle becomes an additional insulator, which is warmed up by the sun's rays. That is why bottles are used in the design, which make it possible to increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe heated surface of the tube with the coolant.

Creating the main part

The following materials are used in the manufacture of the collector:

1. Plastic bottles.
2. Iron barrel.
3. Aluminum, copper or rubber tubes.
4. Wooden bar.
5. Hose.
6. Foil.
7. Scotch.
8. Coil from an old refrigerator.

Tubes made of various materials are suitable for the coolant: aluminum, copper, rubber. The metal version of the collector is less practical due to the fact that it lends itself to corrosion. The use of metal tubes makes the cost of the structure itself increase. It is not recommended to use plastic because of its poor thermal conductivity, such an installation will be ineffective.

Assembling a homemade solar collector is not difficult, but it will save you a lot of money.

It is known from practice that it is better to use only a rubber hose for transporting the coolant when making a collector on your own. It is important that the hose is black. In other cases, it is painted with ordinary black enamel.

The priority is to use matte paint so that there is no reflection of the rays. You can use spare parts for old refrigerators in the coolant - coils through which freon flows. After dismantling it from the refrigerator, the part is purged, cleaned of debris and rust.

Assembling the lighting element

After assembly, this collector will look like series-connected plastic bottles. It is advisable to use clean, transparent and identical specimens, and the bottom and neck must be cut off. With the help of bottles, a solid tube is made.

The collector is equipped with reflectors, which are squares of ordinary foil.

Double-sided tape is used to adhere the foil to the delicate part of the bottle. The other half of the bottles must not be closed.

To create a frame where the collector is located, you can use an ordinary 5 cm beam. An arbitrary frame shape is used, which will take into account the main requirement of stability. The pipe with the coolant is fastened with clamps.

A simple battery is created from an ordinary iron barrel, which must be well insulated and hermetically sealed.

Role of greenhouse design

The presented option for creating a homemade collector is not the only one. There are other different designs of solar collectors that differ in their cost and efficiency in operation. Any solar collectors that are self-made have a cheaper cost than factory options.

If you professionally approach the cultivation of various agricultural crops in greenhouses, then a solar collector designed by your own hands will not be able to provide the required temperature regime. In this case, a professional collector is purchased. There are various options on sale. They are quite expensive, but the efficiency is worth the money spent.

Experience shows that extruded polystyrene foam can be used as a greenhouse insulator. The advantages of its use lie in its strength, it is not afraid of moisture and does not deform, and at the same time provides good heat retention.

DIY solar collector

The greenhouse design plays an important role. Due to the work with asymmetrical structures, the heating efficiency of the greenhouse increases by 25% compared to conventional structures.

We build a solar collector for a greenhouse ourselves, DachaSadovoda

DIY polycarbonate solar collector

A solar collector is a unit that heats water using solar energy. For consideration, we will take the most optimal and highest quality option - a polycarbonate solar collector circuit. Let's consider in detail all the nuances of this unit.

The solar collector consists of sheets of cellular polycarbonate or polypropylene. The collector itself is attached to the ends of these sheets. Such sheets are mounted in a special tin covered box. A sheet of the same material (polycarbonate) is also used as a cover.

You can also cover a polycarbonate solar collector with a glass cover, but it is worth considering the properties of polycarbonate, which, with sufficient light transmission, is able to create a sufficient greenhouse effect, equivalent to double glazing. After all, polycarbonate actually consists of two layers. In addition, this material is much more durable than glass, allowing you to safely withstand the impact of large hailstones. This will help keep the system in full working order even if the outer cover is deformed by hail.

It is also important to provide thermal insulation for the rear wall of the collector. The optimal material for this is expanded polystyrene sheets, since this material is not only light enough, but also has a very reasonable price. When using polypropylene insulation, the cost of the structure will increase.

For the collector, cellular polycarbonate is used, thickness 4-25 mm. It all depends on the number of family members. For example, 4-8 mm thick polycarbonate will be enough for 4 people. You will need a couple of sheets of different sizes. The first one is taken in the same dimensions as the box. The second sheet of polycarbonate for the solar collector must go inside the box, while having the necessary width gaps, so it is somewhat smaller.

Materials required for installing the collector:

• Water supply PVC pipe, 3.2 cm in diameter and 1.5 meters long - 2 pieces;
• Plugs for pipes of the above type - 2 pcs;
• Fitting corners made of polypropylene with metal thread - 2 pieces;
• Threaded hoses.

We start assembling a polycarbonate collector

First, longitudinal cuts are made in both types of pipes, into which a polycarbonate honeycomb sheet is subsequently inserted. The water supplied from below enters the grooves of the sheet, where it heats up and, due to the effect of a thermal siphon, rises to the upper pipe, from where it is discharged to the accumulator.

The ends of the pipe remain intact, so that in the future it will be possible to connect or muffle them. The cut in the pipe is taken the same dimensions as the width of the manifold section.

There is a slight nuance when inserting a polycarbonate sheet into the cut. Due to the internal stress of the plastic, the cut converges. Therefore, the insertion must be done carefully, making sure that the sheet does not enter the pipe, too deeply - this will interfere with the normal circulation of water. It is not worth expanding the cut, because due to its tension, the pipe holds on to the polycarbonate sheet more tightly and the intra-sheet pressure is compensated. Slight fit is of course acceptable.

To improve the adhesion of the surfaces with the sealant, the edges of the polycarbonate sheet are sanded before being inserted into the pipe. You also need to degrease the place of the future joint.

The next stage is the sealing of the pipe joints with the working surface of the collector. This stage is quite important, so you should not save on sealant. Plain silicone isn't good enough.

For greater absorption of solar heat, the surface of the polycarbonate solar collector must be painted. By the way, it is better to use matte black polypropylene for arranging the work surface. This will help not once again be distracted by possible difficulties in painting work, and at the same time it will save your money.

Upon completion of painting, it is the turn of the corners with metal carvings. They are fixed to the ends of the pipes with hot melt glue. This addition, like flexible hoses with reinforcement, will greatly facilitate the process of connecting and disconnecting the collector.

We install the solar collector in the box

First of all, a sheet of expanded polystyrene is installed on the back wall of the frame, for which polyurethane foam is most often used, or glue is corny. Next is the installation of the collector. Using clamps made of metal or plastic, we fix the collector as tightly as possible to the foam, making fastening with maximum quality. The final stage is the installation of polycarbonate from the front side. Fastening is made using self-tapping screws.

Typical solar system operation

A volumetric (160 liters) storage tank insulated with mineral wool is installed in the attic of the building. It is connected to the hot water supply system (hot water extraction). Hot water is supplied from the tank without additional pressure, by gravity, for cold water supply, a pump is installed that supplies water from a well / well.

Install a polycarbonate solar collector so that the top of the collector is not higher than the storage tank, which allows water to circulate naturally. The hot one will rise into the tank, being replaced by the cold one. To do this, also the tube through which hot water is supplied is fixed just above the middle of the reservoir, which helps to accumulate hot water at the top of the tank.

It is also practiced to install two or more installations with polycarbonate solar collectors on different sides of the roof, which helps to increase the amount of hot water entering the tank, as well as the stability of its heating.

Solar collector made of polycarbonate, Stroy Life

Almost every owner of a private house has to deal with the problems of heating residential premises and obtaining hot water. Today, there are many different systems that allow you to successfully solve the above problems. Alternative sources of heating deserve special attention, in particular a collector that uses solar energy as fuel. Such a unit is extremely easy to assemble and profitable in operation.

The average efficiency of self-made solar collectors reaches 50-60%, which is quite a good indicator.

Professional units have an efficiency of about 80-85%, but you need to take into account the fact that they are quite expensive, and almost everyone can afford to purchase materials for assembling a homemade collector.

The capacity of an ordinary solar collector will be sufficient for heating water and heating living rooms.

In this respect, everything depends on the design features, which are determined and calculated on an individual basis.

The assembly of the unit does not require complex and difficult to access tools and expensive materials.

DIY Solar Collector Assembly Tools

1. Perforator.
2. Electric drill.
3. Hammer.
4. Hacksaw.

There are several varieties of this design. They differ from each other in efficiency and total cost. Under any circumstances, a self-made unit will cost an order of magnitude cheaper than a factory model with similar characteristics.

One of the best options is a vacuum solar collector. This is the most budgetary and easy-to-use option.

The units under consideration have a fairly simple design. In general, the system includes a pair of collectors, an advance chamber and a storage tank.The work of a solar collector is carried out according to a simple principle: as the sun's rays pass through the glass, they are converted into heat. The system is organized in such a way that to exit enclosed space these rays are not able.

The installation operates according to the thermosyphon principle. During the heating process, warm liquid rushes upward, displacing cold water and directing it towards the heat source. This allows you to refuse even the use of a pump, because the liquid will circulate by itself.The installation accumulates the energy of the sun and stores it inside the system for a long time.

Components for assembling the unit in question are sold in specialized stores. In essence, such a collector is a tubular radiator installed in a special wood box, one of the edges of which is made of glass.

For the manufacture of the said radiator pipes are used. The optimal pipe material is steel. The piping and piping are made of pipes traditionally used for plumbing. Usually ¾ ”pipes are used, 1” pieces are also good.

The grille is made from smaller pipes with thinner walls. The recommended diameter is 16 mm, the optimum wall thickness is 1.5 mm. Each radiator grille must include 5 pipes 160 cm long each.

Important nuances of assembling a collector with your own hands

The first stage is the assembly of the box. To assemble the previously mentioned box, wooden boards about 12 cm wide and 3-3.5 cm thick are used. The bottom is made of hardboard or plywood sheet. The bottom must be reinforced with 5x3 cm slats. Select the length of the slats according to the size of the bottom.

The second stage is the insulation of the box. The box needs high-quality insulation. The best and most convenient option to use is foam plates. Mineral wool is also good. The insulation is placed on the bottom of the box.

The third stage is the arrangement of the radiator box. The installed insulation must be covered with a layer of galvanized sheet metal. Clamps are used to connect the radiator and the laid sheet of metal. Pre-paint the radiator pipe and metal decking with matt black paint.

Outside, the box is painted white, and the glass is sealed using compounds specially designed for such tasks. This will minimize heat loss. The pipes are connected in a standard manner using tees, couplings and angles. The pipes used in the assembly of the collector are easily connected by hand.

The fourth stage is the preparation of the storage tank. A tank is responsible for the accumulation of heat in the system under consideration, the capacity of which can be in the range of 200-400 liters. Select a specific volume based on your personal water needs. A tank can be made from a barrel. If you cannot find a suitable barrel, use pipes.

The tank needs insulation. It is best to install it in a box made of plywood sheets or wooden boards, and fill the space between the walls of the box and the container with sawdust, foam or other thermal insulation material.

The fifth stage is the preparation of the advance chamber. The system under consideration includes a unit called an avancamera. The main function of this device is to build up the constant overpressure required for the full operation of the solar system. The avancamera is made from a suitable container for 35-45 liters. A can is perfect. Additionally, the unit is equipped with a feeding device for work automation.

Step-by-step guide for assembling the unit

Coolant circulation diagram

The first stage is the installation of the drive and the advance camera. These units are located in the attic of the house. Make sure the ceiling in the installation location can support the weight of the water containers. Install the front camera next to the drive. Do this so that the liquid level in the front chamber is about 100 cm higher than the water level in the storage tank.

The second step is choosing a place to install a solar heater. The unit is fixed to the south wall of the building. It is important to maintain the correct slope of the heater towards the horizon. The optimal value is 45 degrees. The collector must be attached to the house so that the solar panels look like an extension of the roof.

The third stage is the connection of individual elements. To accomplish this task, you need to buy inch and half inch steel pipes. Half-inch you will use to connect the high-pressure elements of the system - from the point of water inlet to the front chamber. Inch pipes are used in the low-pressure part.

It is important that the connections are tight, air locks in this case are unacceptable.

The pipes must be pre-painted white or another light color. A layer of insulating material is fixed on top of the paint. In this case, foam rubber is optimal. A layer of polyethylene is wound over the insulation, and then a woven tape. At the end, the pipes are painted white again.

The fourth stage is filling the system with liquid. Water must be supplied through special drain valves installed at the bottom of the radiators. This will avoid air congestion. When water begins to flow from the drain, the operation can be considered complete.

The fifth stage is the connection of the advance chamber. This unit must be connected to a water supply. After connection, open the flow valve. You will see that the amount of water in the front chamber starts to decrease.

The advantage of such a do-it-yourself solar collector is that it can heat water even in cloudy weather.

At night, the air temperature drops below the temperature of the heated water. In such conditions, the collector will begin to heat the environment and generally work in reverse mode. To avoid this, the system is equipped with a valve to prevent the possibility of reverse circulation. It will be enough to simply turn off this valve in the evening, and the energy will be stored in the system.

If the thermal conductivity of the collector is not high enough, it can be increased by adding sections. The design will allow you to do this without any difficulty.

Thus, there is nothing difficult in self-assembly of a solar heater. Such work also does not require large cash investments, however, it is strongly recommended to buy only high-quality materials from well-known manufacturers. Do your job with the utmost responsibility, do not violate the recommendations, and you will get an excellent source of heat and hot water, running on free energy. Happy work!

Video - DIY solar collector

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