How thick is a bar for a jigging. An overview of the features of installing door casing in wooden houses. What is a jar

When glazing a log house, anyone faced a problem when the company's specialists ask the question: Is a cage installed? Why do we need a window in a log house and what it is like, not everyone knows. We will tell you how much such a structure costs, what it includes and why to install it.

After construction, the new timber gives a large shrinkage of 10 cm. The largest part of it occurs in the first year. At a height of 3 meters, the construction of a house from a bar can settle by 3-4 cm, depending on the type of bar. In the future, shrinkage occurs more slowly, but continues for another 3-4 years. After that, the timber walls will "breathe" and change their size not significantly depending on the change in humidity and temperatures.

If, during the shrinkage, the upper part of the house settles too much, then this will lead to disastrous consequences: the glass will crack, the frames will warp, and they will stop opening and closing. Windows will lose their functionality.

Knowing all the subtleties of the shrinkage of a house from a bar, you can hedge against undesirable consequences. For this, a frame or cage is mounted. A window in a house made of a bar is intended for further protection of windows from damage during shrinkage and is designed for further installation of door windows.

The literary name for the okosyachka is a boat, a log.

The main functions of the window:

Installation of the required clearance of 5-8 cm between the window frame and the upper beam. This gap is thermally insulated with a material based on tow or flax fiber.
Installation of a system for connecting vertical beams to each other at the opening of a window or door.
Installation of an independent construction of a window or doorway from the wall of the house. A cage is a rigid structure for a window frame that is not tied to the main wall and can move when the wall is resized.

Types and types of mugs

Experts distinguish between finishing and rough (basic) types of casing. They are constructed from different materials depending on the wall material of the house.

A rough view is used in structures that need further finishing. If the wall is planned to be sheathed from the outside, for example, with a ventilated facade, and inside the gypsum board, then cheap material is used for casing. Such slopes are refined in the process of finishing both outside and inside.

If the house was built from glued or profiled planed lumber, then finishing the room is not needed and then the casing box must match the beauty of the wall. In this case, the cage should not only carry the function of protecting the window, but also aesthetically match the entire structure. For this, expensive material is used.

The installation of the casing, depending on the lateral connections of the elements, is distinguished by:

In the mortgage bar.
Into a thorn monolith.
Into the deck.

Okosyachka in a mortgage bar

A groove is cut out along the vertical of the span for a beam of 50x50 mm. Then the bar is mounted in the groove. For thermal insulation and sealing, flax is used, which is made from flax using needle-punched technology.

Then a box is mounted in the form of a letter P made of 50X150 or 50X200 mm bars. These wide bars are first mounted to the 50x50 mm part, and then to the lower rim of the opening.

Between top and with the bar of the opening, it is necessary to leave a distance of 5-8 cm (gap) which will allow the wall to move. This gap is insulated with any material other than polyurethane foam. Since it has hardened, it will transfer the load to the pump.

Ossyachka in thorn-monalit

For this technology, the cut-outs are taken from glued beams with dimensions of 100x150 or 100x200 mm. A side opening in the shape of the letter T is cut out with a milling cutter.

First, the side elements with T-shaped notches are mounted, they are attached to the lower rim of the timber frame. After that, a wide board of 50x150-200 mm is bursting with the top of the window.

With such a casing, a thorn is cut out in the opening for a window or door. A groove is cut out on the elements of the window, which will be put on the thorn.

First, the vertical parts are assembled and attached to the lower crown of the log house from the bar. Then spacers are made using the board.

More details about each option are described in the article "DIY siege".

These options are more suitable for roughing. The finishing one is assembled according to the technology into the embedded beam. This high technology assumes the use of a quarter mounted from carriages of an analogue. The protruding part allows you to hide the foam from the street side. At the same time, measures are being taken to close the foam areas from the sun and wind.

To give an aesthetic look, the cage is finished with a cashier from the outside and inside. It covers the places where the window is insulated with linen.

It is difficult to do such work without skill the first time, and buyers of large log cottages usually do not have enough time. In such cases, the casing is ordered from the companies involved in the installation of windows.

What you need to know to order casing

Many companies in all cities are installing windows. The large ones have concluded an agreement with construction companies, and their work is included in the service of building a house from glued laminated timber or another type of turnkey. But you can order the service "casing installation" separately. This requires:

Completing material for the manufacture of a window. It can be bought in advance or brought by the company doing the work. Does the material include? Boards of various sizes, antiseptic solutions for the treatment of timber and components, insulation (tow, linen).
Electricity at a construction site. At the time of installation of the casing, as a rule, a log house is still under construction and there may be no power supply. In such cases, the contractor will provide a gasoline or diesel generator. Without this, installation will be difficult.
The team works in the shortest possible time and can complete from 6 to 8 openings per day. But for this you need to think about where the workers will spend the night (of course, this applies to suburban construction).

How much does it cost to install casing?

The price for a box in all regions is approximately the same. The main factors affecting its cost:

Availability of material. (From its own material, the price is lower).
Wall thickness and opening height.
Type of timber (Building a house from profiled and glued timber implies the installation of a more expensive casing).
Availability of electricity (the cost of renting a generator is added).
Is it necessary to finish the casing with a casing.
Remoteness from the city limits. (fare).
Worker qualifications ( wage from specialists above).

Average price for a box with work for 2014:

Kind of a window	Carton thickness (cm)
	Up to 15				15-20				20-25				25-30
	Price, rub / r.m
	installations		material		installations		material		installations		material		installations		material
	height	width	height	width	height	width	height	width	height	width	height	width	height	width	height	width
In the mortgage bar	870	125	300	190	915	125	350	250	950	125	350	250	990	125	350	250
Into the thorn-monalite, into the deck	1115	125	410	190	1150	125	500	250	1190	125	500	250	1240	125	500	250

Installation work	Price, rub / r.m. boxes of various thicknesses (cm)
Installation work	Up to 15	15-20	20-25	25-30
Saw cut in a log house horizontal	190	250	320	370
Platband installation	130	130	130	130
Installation of a window sill up to 30 cm in thickness	330	330	330	330
Antiseptic treatment	380	380	380	380
Insulation of the gap for shrinkage	140	140	140	140

If you decide to entrust the installation of the window to a specialist, then it is better to order additional services. Only in the place with them you will receive high-quality casing with a guarantee from 1 to 3 years. And this is enough for the complete shrinkage of a log house.

Windows and doors are an essential attribute of any building. But the installation of windows and doors in wooden houses is significantly different from a similar procedure in brick or stone buildings. Openings for doors and windows significantly weaken the solid wood structure of the house.

Therefore, in order to strengthen the walls and protect the window and door blocks from the destructive effects of shrinkage processes, a casing is made in a wooden house.

In fact, a window into a house made of timber is nothing more than a solid wooden structure in the form of a box, installed directly in a door or window opening. In addition to its main functions, the window is designed to reduce the thermal conductivity of the areas where window and door blocks are adjacent to the wall openings, which increases the energy efficiency of the room.

In addition, a well-assembled and installed cage makes the facade of the house outwardly more complete and attractive.

The siege is traditionally assembled from 3 constituent elements:

sidewalls;
top;
threshold or window sill.

The following types of window frames for a door in a log house can be distinguished:

Okosyachka in a mortgage bar
T-shaped window
U-shaped window
Finish sowing
Rough sowing
Okosyachka from the array
Glued window

Making a jig

There are some different ways making a jig:

"In the embedded block"... Due to the relative cheapness and speed of manufacture, the most demanded is a box in a mortgage bar.

"In a thorn monolith."

"In the deck" is another most common technology. The popularity of the method is explained by the simplicity and low cost of implementation.

"In a thorn with a ready slope"

Such a box is rarely made by hand, since it is a complex prefabricated structure.

Which method to choose for DIY? Watch the video in this article about this.

Tools

For self-production of a window, you will need such tools as:

chainsaw;
a circular saw;
jigsaw;
drill and screwdriver;
grinder;
tape measure square and pencil.

After all the tools are ready, you can start working. There are two main types of windows: for wooden and for plastic window blocks. What will suit your home?

Manufacturing of casing for wooden window blocks

The casing for wooden windows is the easiest to manufacture. Starting to produce it, we grind grooves in the logs that adjoin the opening. Actually, these grooves will hold the window together with the window frame.

We grind the grooves so as to sink the bars into them, which will form the prefabricated structure. The instruction indicates that rectangular bars with a thickness of 50 mm are used for the manufacture of a window, the groove must be of a similar size.

At the next stage, side bars are placed in the side grooves. Just like a seal is placed under the bottom bar and under the side parts. Lastly, the top bar is installed.

The groove into which the top bar is inserted should be slightly deeper than the bottom and side grooves. The resulting gap, as in the photo below, will serve as a compensation space if the walls are deformed during the shrinkage process.

Important!
In some cases, polyurethane foam is used instead of jute and flax as a sealant.
This is unacceptable, since when the foam dries, it prevents the natural shrinkage of the logs.

What is the window made of

For the manufacture of a box, it is advisable to use high-quality dry wood, which does not deform during subsequent operation. It is not scary if there are knots in the wood used, especially since its price is cheaper.
At the end of the assembly, the entire structure can be varnished and thus an aesthetic combination of the wooden wall of the house and the window block will be achieved. (see also article)
Okosyachka is made of wood, mostly hard, not prone to cracking. This is necessary in order for the window to withstand shrinkage exceeding the shrinkage gaps, for example, during extreme drying out of the house.
The finished sowing will last for a long time if it is protected from the negative effects of environmental factors. For this, the wooden structure is covered with a protective layer of varnish or paint intended for outdoor use.
In most cases, the window on the outside of a wooden house is covered with platbands. However, provided that the entire structure is correctly assembled, you can do without platbands.

Casing manufacturing technology for plastic window blocks

At the first stage, preliminary preparation of the window opening is performed. We prepare the opening so that it is, on average, 15 cm larger than the window frame. The gap between the frame and the opening is necessary for the installation of the window itself and in order to compensate for the possible shrinkage of the structure.

A ridge is cut at the end of the prepared opening, which will serve as the basis for a window carriage with a pre-prepared groove. As a result, the shrinking process of the logs will take place inside the carriage along the groove. That is, subsidence will not create pressure on the window unit.

For the manufacture of the gun carriage, a beam of 100 × 150 mm is used. In this bar, a groove is made in the middle in which the comb should stand. As a result, the carriage should be 5 cm larger than the window block.

The depth and width of the ridge should be 5 cm. The ridge is made exactly at the level of the chainsaw.

The upper casing element is manufactured with a cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200b40 × 150 mm. On both sides of the board we cut out grooves into which the comb will enter. After that, the top board (top) is installed on the crests of the window opening. After the side carriages are installed, the top is fixed with self-tapping screws.

The openings are cut out in order to install windows and doors in the future. The size of the opening must correspond to the dimensions of the future structure. The openings must be strengthened, since they that are not reinforced with anything can move relative to the axis of the foundation. The walls in the openings will bend outward or inward of the wooden house. In order to still fix the walls, construction work involves the installation of a window (casing). The base will help to avoid natural distortions during drying and deformation of the wood.

Cutting price: from 260 rubles per running meter

In order to calculate the price of the casing of the opening of a window or door, you can use the price-list in the section price of a window, for this you just need to know the width C and thickness D of the window. In this section, you can independently calculate the price of your cut. Installation price of a window: 900 rubles per running meter... Delivery from the production warehouse: 50 rubles for 1 km... We carry out delivery by our own transport. The shipping cost includes loading and delivery on board the vehicle.

Okosyachka is of two types: U-shaped and T-shaped.

Before installing the casing, the opening must be carefully prepared - cut out a ridge or groove and treat it with an antiseptic. You can buy casing (okosyachka) of both types from us. We produce glued casing, during operation it can withstand heavy loads, is not subject to change under the influence of various factors, and after installation, it is immediately ready for painting. Our craftsmen perform all types of work on preparing a wooden house from a bar for the installation of the casing and make its installation. The cost of a box is made up of the size and type of material from which it will be made. The approximate production time for the casing is 10-15 days, depending on the volume of the order. All work on the manufacture and installation of the casing is carried out by highly qualified craftsmen. We guarantee quality work done on time. Do not neglect the installation of a real high-quality casing of windows and doors. Now there are ways to do without casing, for example, a regular board with a foundation block. However, there is no guarantee that this will not lead to deformation of wood or installed doors and windows, including plastic ones. It is better to initially perform all work on the construction of a house with high quality, so that later you do not waste time and money on correcting problems that have arisen during the operation.

Based on the results of reading all the topics about the casing (casing) on \u200b\u200bthis network resource collected my observations in some kind of FAK (maybe someone will come in handy so as not to waste too much time):

Why do you need a jar?

1. The box keeps the side walls of the log house in the opening from lateral displacement due to the spike along the entire length of the sidewall.

2. The box allows the frame to move vertically relative to the window opening during shrinkage during the initial shrinkage of the frame (which almost completely ends after 10 years); also during the life of a log house, the tree is subject to slight expansion. If the window (door) is firmly glued to the foam in the opening in the log house, at best it will tear off the foam / and most likely break the window.

For the same purpose, a shrinkage gap is left above the tip. For a one-story house, 6-7 cm, for a two-story house, 10 cm is recommended. (I did 5 cm for myself, since the log house has stood for a year and will be caulked, which will raise it a little)

What types of worms are there?

Finishing - when all elements are cut / sanded and remain in sight, that is, they are not covered with finishing. Such a window is placed in houses from polished timber / round timber.

Rough - when the entire opening is then closed with trim. Accordingly, it is not necessary to plan / skin the casing material.

What kinds of jigsaw designs are there?

The sides of the window will be with any design. (At the same time, there are difficult options for combined (adjacent) windows / doors, in which it is desirable to make adjacent sidewalls on a sliding bar)

There are options:

With top and bottom;

With a top, the sidewalls are cut into the lower log;

And sometimes the sidewalls are cut into both the lower and upper logs - but here on the forum I have not seen such structures (in my opinion, this is not a very good option).

What is a quarter and its dimensions?

A quarter is a selection (reverse quarter) or a protrusion (straight quarter) on the box of the jig, which overlaps the window frame by 1 cm.

Reverse quarter - the window is inserted from the outside, the sample width is the width of the window box, the depth is 3 cm (1 cm for the overlap, 2 cm for the foaming of the window).

Straight a quarter - the window is inserted from the inside of the house and rests against the rim of 3 cm. Moreover, the rim can be cut out of the solid wood (which is a dreary thing with a wide box of jigs), glue or nail.

The opinion of the window installers is that a quarter is not needed for rough casing in principle.

Opinion from the forum - a quarter is needed, because the foam can move away from the tree and the window will be blown through.

What material is the box made of?

There is a variant of P-box and T-box. For finishing casing, the P-option is more popular, since the casing is thicker / more solid. It is believed that the T-option is more convenient to caulk

The sides are made: from an array; the board is screwed / glued to the mortgage bar (in the case of a T-box) or two bars are screwed to the board (P-box); there are prefabricated glued versions (see Shuvoe).

The array is usually taken 100 or 150 mm thick, the prefabricated option is a board of 50 mm. Width - along the thickness of the wall.

The general recommendation is that the material should be dried (up to six months of storage in summer, sawn workpieces dry faster). For a fine casing, for obvious reasons, cracks are undesirable. There are different opinions on how to dry the material.

Many people make the bottom from larch, because it rots in the first place.

Everywhere jute or tow is laid in the grooves, it is more recommended to lay jute in the groove above the top on this forum. There are options on the Internet for laying mines. cotton wool, it is imperative to close it on both sides with steam / hydro insulation.

Features of installation.

In a frame made of logs, install the bottom on the sawn half logs.

Treat the elements of the casing and the opening with an antiseptic.

Some people make a wind spike under the bottom (see pictures from Shuvoe). But there are opinions that it is not needed and even harmful, since it causes unnecessary accumulation of moisture vapor under the bottom.

At the corners of the casing, locks should be made that "do not pierce with a spoke", that is, they prevent the passage of air through the entire thickness of the casing.

They make both very tricky locks and very simple spike / groove. There are opinions that there is not much sense in complex locks, since a single tenon / groove is not pierced with a knitting needle.

A simple spike / groove on the vertex can be made with a reduced spine on one side (from the inside), so that when installing the vertex it does not lift it to its full thickness above the sides (it should be clear in the pictures below; relevant, for example, if the vertex is 100 mm, and the shrinkage gap is planned only 50 mm).

How much insulation and the width of the groove / spike

To do or not to do a quarter

Album wyat-80with examples

Order casing or do it yourself?

Especially in my case - most of the teams, whom I found not very far from my construction site, have a simple and quick approach: locks are simpler or not necessary at all, why cut the array when it is faster to screw the board to the bar with screws, why the bottom - we never do it and so everything is worth it, etc. If you do it according to my requirements, the price tag doubles.

In general, I decided to do it myself. Moreover, there is all the main tool for casing: a chainsaw, parquet flooring, hacksaws, chisels. There is no milling cutter, but I don't need one.

Yes, drawings for a window are very convenient to do in SketchUp from Google. Having watched a couple of lessons on the internet, the program can be mastered in half an hour or an hour, at least there will be enough skills for drawing a window.

And a couple of observations:

When choosing a casing design for self-made production, think about how it is more convenient for you to work in terms of the sequence of operations: sawing a spike with a parquet for T or making a sample of P with a parquet / chisel / milling cutter, sawing / chiselling locks, etc. And some of them only use a chainsaw wielding;

It is desirable to have blanks for casing from the solid, even and of the correct geometric shape, otherwise accuracy suffers when cutting grooves / tenons

P. S. Do not abuse the text too much, I was able to spend as much time as it was; I come across the topic of a box for the first time in my life, thanks to this forum - I decided to remake for the builders what they “screwed up”.

# 863 IPaltus, 10/14/15

Many have never heard of any casing, but when you are dealing with a wooden house, you cannot do without this important element. The shedding or squinting does not allow the window or doorways to "leave", while it does not prevent the house from sitting down properly.

Definition and purpose

It is a well-known truth that over time, wood shrinks, and this shrinkage is a noticeable percentage. It is not surprising that the presence of this fact serves as a good reason to refuse to install windows and doors directly into a bare timber, because this will lead to the fact that over time they will simply "squeeze out".

Unfortunately, things don't get better over time. Wood has a specific property to swell and then shrink back under the influence of temperature fluctuations. To minimize negative influence these fluctuations, and came up with such a detail as a window.

The cage, or window, is a special wooden frame that restrains pressure directly on the windows, thereby neutralizing the negative effect of vibrations. The cage has such a structure that allows you to move it a little from time to time, thereby completely protecting the window from any influences. So, the functions of the window include:

leveling of displacement and warping of openings;
minimizing the risk of depressurization and, consequently, the occurrence of cracks;
cessation of deformation of doors and glass units installed in their places;
holding the crowns in their places, thereby maintaining the shape of the entire frame.

Device

The siege consists of several details:

casing box;
mezhventsovy sealant or spike with sealant;
mortgage bar (not always);
internal and external platbands;
low tide;

The device can be clearly seen in the diagram below.

Each of the details performs its own special function, so it is not possible to refuse any of them. That is why experienced builders recommend buying ready-made casing from a reputable manufacturer, and not making it alone. In this case, there is practically no risk of forgetting about any detail.

When choosing elements, you should also pay attention to the following indicators:

All elements for a box should be narrower than 2.6 cm.If this condition is not met, then over time the sowing will crack and will not properly perform its duties.
The moisture content of wooden parts should not exceed 10%. At higher humidity, there is a high risk of fungus and other microorganisms, and at lower humidity - internal cracks.
The siege is needed both when installing wooden and when installing plastic windows. The difference is that for wooden windows and doors, you can make a simple window, and for plastic ones you need a complex analog.

Types: which is better?

There are many types of jowls: composite, ordinary, reverse secret and many others. Each of the types is better suited for some a certain kind windows. It should be noted that the largest selection is available for wooden windows: here the choice is practically unlimited.

By and large, there are two main types of jowls: "in the thorn" and "in the groove". Both in the first and in the second case, fixation occurs due to the friction force, which does not allow the windows to "fly out" in the future. It should be borne in mind that both in the bath and in the house, the siege is carried out in a similar way. The technology will not be different.

Each type has its pros and cons, which must be considered before making a choice. It should also be borne in mind that the differences between the inner and outer jaws are quite significant. However, the tongue-and-groove lock is present in both.

Within the framework of this section, the most preferred methods for the device of the mowing will be considered. Some other options, such as Old Russian, secret or others, should be entrusted to specialists, and for self-execution choose one of the given designs.

U-shaped

The U-shaped box is also called "in the deck". It should be borne in mind that this option is the most expensive of all the ones given, so you should take it up only if you are confident enough in your abilities and have considerable experience in the field of timber construction.

The U-shaped box is made "in the groove". Grooves are cut along the perimeter of the window, after which the top is attached with self-tapping screws, and the window sill or threshold (for doorways) - wooden nails. Wooden nails are also called dowels.

In order to fully understand how exactly the window opening is cut, the installation of this type of window and the window itself, we recommend watching the following video.

The main idea is that a U-shaped window is not the easiest option for independent execution, but with the proper skills, it is quite possible to make high-quality casing of a window or door using this technology.

The main thing is to carry out the correct calculations, buy high-quality materials and work slowly, otherwise mistakes cannot be avoided.

T-shaped

The T-shaped window is in many ways similar to the U-shaped one, but at the same time it is the opposite of it. So, instead of the groove in the previous case, a spike is made here, and the groove is cut directly in the box itself. As in the previous case, this method is quite expensive, but still significantly inferior in financial terms to the U-shaped analogue.

The T-shaped jamb is made according to the "monolith thorn" technology. A spike is made along the perimeter of the window, to which a top, window sill or threshold with existing grooves are subsequently attached to the sides. Unlike the previous case, the fastening is performed without the help of self-tapping screws. It is worth noting that in this case, you first need to fix the lower parts - a window sill or a threshold, and only then proceed to fixing the risers (side parts) and the top.

It should be borne in mind that the T-shaped cage is a type of finishing window, while the windows must be prepared for installation with a quarter. As a rough window, this type can be used when the windows are planned to be additionally decorated and finished in the future.

Rough

Rough sowing is the cheapest of all types. This is due to several factors at once, the main one of which is the use of cheap materials. Using this method is not always justified, however, if we are talking about a house or a bathhouse, which will be additionally decorated in the future (including window and door spaces), another choice will become a useless waste of money, effort and time.

When making a rough casing, they refuse to build a quarter under a window. For manufacturing, a planed board with certain dimensions is taken. Its thickness is usually 30-40 mm, and its width is 20 cm. It should be borne in mind that the final width depends entirely on the width of the wall itself.

There are several ways to construct a rough window: with the installation of a window inside the opening, with trim platbands and extensions, and so on. Depending on the chosen method, the complexity and location of glass units in the finished casing differ. Installation is carried out on self-tapping screws or mounting plates, and all fasteners must pass through the window profile.

The advantages include such qualities as the use of inexpensive materials and ease of installation. Even a beginner can handle such a job. Unfortunately, there are many more disadvantages than advantages. Firstly, poor quality material is prone to rotting and cracking, which negatively affects the service life and appearance casing. Secondly, the windows will freeze through. Thirdly, it is imperative that you need to carry out additional finishing of windows or doors.

Finishing

Unlike the previous case, there is no need for further design of the window or door frame. It will initially look pretty enough to be left unchanged in the future. This option is made of laminated veneer lumber or a material composed of lamellas, well glued together. Due to the specifics of the material, the finishing shed is able to withstand low temperatures, while not freezing or warping.

The thickness of the finishing casing must be at least 65 mm, otherwise it will not be possible to make a quarter under the window, which is an obligatory component of this type of jig. If you choose a smaller thickness, that the place for installing the window will turn out to be too thin, thus, a significant part of the safety margin will be lost.

Installation is carried out in almost the same way as in the case of rough casing. The finishing structure can be fastened "in a tenon" or "in a groove". The box is clean and aesthetically pleasing, so there is no need for further finishing work.

This option has many advantages: the use of high-quality material, as a result of which the likelihood of rot or warping disappears. The material glued from lamellas is able to withstand high loads and temperature extremes, including freezing. And the main plus is that there is no need to additionally finish door or window frames in the future. Among the disadvantages, one can single out the higher cost and labor intensity compared to the rough one.

Arched

The arched shed differs insignificantly from the others, in fact, being only their decorative variety. A significant difference lies in the complexity of the device: in the case of an arched version, you will have to face many difficulties, mainly due to the atypical shape of this type of jail.

In a wooden house, you can equip an arched window from several elements or from one bar, bent in the required way. In order to bend a wooden beam, you will first need to act on it with hot steam. This will soften the wood fibers and become more pliable.

After the arched casing is completed, you will need to purchase the remaining elements, the most important of which are the arched platbands.

Remember that not every company offers these in their assortment, so pay attention to finding the right one.

Thus, making an arched window in a wooden house, including the windows for it, is a rather laborious task, which is beyond the capacity of a novice master. In this case, if possible, it is better to contact a specialized firm dealing with such issues.

Power

The main distinguishing feature of power tools is the scope of their application. When installing bath or ordinary windows, there is no need for such a complex design, but when it comes to panoramic, arched windows, gates or balcony doors, a reinforced box is what you need. The forceful siege serves just to strengthen the door or window frame.

The power cage is constructed by the glue method (as well as the finishing one). It turns out wood from 90 mm thick, due to which increased rigidity is achieved. The rest of the structure is the same. Power siege can be arranged "in a thorn" or "in a groove."

Basically, the power box is made for doorways, with the exception of some cases when the window really requires such a reinforced box. Moreover, this kind of planting can be done for both wooden and plastic windows.

Keep in mind that it makes sense to do the power casing finishing only when the house is not wooden, because wooden houses usually they are not subject to additional finishing.

Euro

It is customary to call a Euro-casing a ready-made kit for the manufacture of the casing itself, made on a turnkey basis and supplied already fully assembled. The Euro-miter box can be U-shaped "in a deck", T-shaped "in a thorn monolith", T-shaped with a built-in bar.

The last method deserves special attention. A T-shaped window with a built-in bar does not differ from the manufacture of the version "in the thorn monolith". The only thing worth remembering is that this type is mainly used for arranging door frames, not window frames.

Thus, Euro-boarding can be called any finishing window, made to order by any agency or company and delivered ready-made for further installation. Like all others, such a cage consists of risers, a window sill or threshold and a top. All parts are connected to each other with locks, which makes it possible to do without the use of screws, nails or other fastening material.

Combined

Combined sowing is so called because it is made from two types of materials. For the manufacture of the base, solid wood is used, for example, pine, and the outer layer is made of glued board, which combines various types of wood, including valuable species. Such a box is fine and does not require further finishing.

The main advantages of this method include an excellent combination of price and quality. With relatively low monetary costs, you can get a high-quality and attractive result, because the base made of inexpensive wood will not be visible.

It will not work to make a combined casing at home with your own hands, because for this you will have to combine parts from a solid array. Not everyone has access to this kind of material.

The only way out is to order a ready-made set from a renowned manufacturer who will produce an inexpensive and high-quality set. You can install it yourself.

Materials

The choice of materials used in the manufacture of a box is not large. Basically, everything is limited to the use of wood, so we can only talk about different types array. So, they often choose inexpensive coniferous wood - pine or spruce. The natural moisture content of wood is called the state in which it is at the time of sawing. Unfortunately, the indicator is often far from the reference 10%, so the array has to be additionally dried.

When decorating corners, you may need additional details such as mounting brackets or metal corners. These metal elements provide additional rigidity and reinforcement to the frame.

When arranging a rough casing, fasteners are required: pins, screws, nails. In the case of a finishing cut, no additional fasteners are usually required, since a sufficient degree of fixation is achieved through the use of locks.

Wooden window

A wooden window is less finicky than its PVC counterpart. So, a rough window is also suitable for a wooden window, and in some cases it will not have to be additionally finished in the future. On the other hand, the very manufacture and installation of a wooden window is quite laborious.

When making a window on a wooden window, you will definitely need metal and fasteners - screws and nails. As for the box itself, regardless of how it will be performed ("in a thorn" or "in a groove"), you will need to make a box of the required thickness, preferably from the same wood from which the house is made, if it is a log or lumber ...

You will also need insulation.

In this case, it is better to resort to insulation with natural materials, using felt or jute. They are the ones who are best "friends" with the tree, easily transferring all the contractions and expansions of the logs.

Plastic window

For plastic windows, only two types of jaws are used: finishing and power. And in fact, and in another case, the list of materials used will be approximately the same:

side posts or carriages are made of a bar, the thickness of which is equal to the thickness of the bar from which the house is made;
the upper part of the window or the top is also made of a bar, the dimensions of which are 5x15 cm;
natural materials such as jute or linen-wadding and mineral wool can be used as insulation;
the presence of an antiseptic impregnation is mandatory, which will prevent the appearance of mold, fungus and other microorganisms;
by all means, you need to take care of the presence of hydro and vapor barrier, which should be located on both sides - it prevents the formation of condensation both on the double-glazed windows themselves and in the gaps between the window and the walls.

Dimensions

The dimensions of the casing are not strictly regulated by the standards of GOST or SNiP, but this does not mean that there are no requirements for dimensions. Previously, they have already been touched on in passing, but for a more complete understanding, you need to delve a little deeper into this issue.

First of all, there are two factors that affect the size of the window: the width of the walls and the size of the window or doorway. Depending on this, the length and width of the bars used for the casing are determined.

As for the section, the most often used timber is 15x15 cm or 36x15 cm with a deck equal to 100 mm. The top is made in the proportions of 5x15 cm. Reinforced casing is made of 100 x 200 mm timber in order to neutralize possible increased loads.

It should be borne in mind that, regardless of the type and size, the window is installed in the house no earlier than a year after the construction of the house, especially if it is built of wood. Shrinkage of timber after wintering can reach 10 cm. This is especially true for large, expensive double-glazed windows.

Production

Having decided to order a ready-made turnkey project, it is recommended to first draw up a drawing, which will fully reflect all measurements of a window or doorway. If you are not sure that you will be able to correctly take all measurements, it is recommended that you contact a specialized company for such services. As practice shows, the production of gilts and the removal of all measurements can be ordered from the same company.

Many of the firms offer measurement free of charge when contacting them for casing. Be sure to use this service, if available.