How to fold the stove into a bath. Sauna stove - device, materials, drawings, home-made manufacturing. Preparing the site for installing the stove

Probably, any owner of individual suburban housing, if he does not yet have his own bathhouse on the site, then, most likely, is hatching plans for its construction and equipment. The bathing tradition in Russia is very ancient and enduring, and no modern devices and fixtures in the form of bathtubs, jacuzzi, "fancy" showers, electric heaters or steam generators can replace the real heat from a heated stove and a birch broom.

The stove is one of the most important attributes of a Russian bath or a real sauna. The required atmosphere and the required temperature both in the steam room and in the washing room directly depend on its effective operation. Currently, there are many models on sale that are specially designed for such conditions. However, many home craftsmen prefer to make a sauna stove with their own hands. This matter, although quite complicated and requiring good skills in construction or welding, is still quite feasible.

Types of sauna stoves

First of all, it is necessary to deal with the main existing varieties of bath stoves so that you can opt for one of them.

1. By material manufacturing

For a long time, burnt bricks have been the main material for sauna stoves. This tradition has not become a thing of the past even today - many people prefer the brick oven to all others, although, of course, its construction is much more difficult than installing a ready-made one. But on the other hand, the heat in it remains much longer, and it creates a very special atmosphere in the bath.

With its construction, certain difficulties may arise. So, for a brick structure, a foundation is required that is not connected with the foundation of the bath itself. In addition, the dimensions of the building itself do not always allow placing such a furnace in it, although, of course, there are projects of very small masonry.

Another difficulty is that the construction of such a furnace requires a certain amount of experience so that it does not become a source of a potential threat to human life and health. Often the desire to have a stone stove makes the owners of the bath turn to the masters. However, you can try to fold it yourself.

Metal bath stoves are very popular. Although they are some departure from tradition, they have a number of advantages:

- Its installation does not take a long time and does not require a lot of space.

- There are a lot of ready-made models on sale, so it is possible to choose the most optimal option for a specific bath.

- It is easier to make such a furnace on your own if you have experience with electric welding.

- For the manufacture of a metal furnace, even seemingly recycled materials are often used - pipe cuttings, old disks from trucks, obsolete gas cylinders, old barrels, etc.

In the bath, as a rule, only steel stoves are installed - cast iron is unacceptable in these conditions. Yes, it has a higher heat capacity and holds the desired temperature longer, but its fragility and instability to sudden thermal changes make it impossible, for example, to splash on a hot stove cold water- cracks may appear.

Additional information about stoves from the site:

The main disadvantage of steel stoves is their rather quick cooling after the end of the furnace, especially if an insufficiently thick metal sheet was used for manufacturing. However, a massive heater can hold heat for quite a long time.

To reconcile supporters of brick and steel sauna stoves can be the technology of lining a metal case with a brick.

In this case, a massive foundation is not required, the tightness of the masonry joints is also, that is, the process of building walls is quite simple.

Combined option - a metal stove lined with bricks

In addition to good heat accumulation, brick cladding will protect against direct exposure to hard infrared radiation from hot metal surfaces. And yet - it can be a good interior addition to the bath, hiding the often not very pretty look of a steel stove.

2. According to the energy carrier used

The vast majority of sauna stoves are designed to fire them. There are, of course, models with the use of gas and electricity. Some craftsmen adapt liquid fuel units (for example, diesel fuel) for this purpose, taking the furnace part with the diesel fuel supply system outside.

However, we can emphasize this again, no other energy sources, except for natural, well-dried firewood, will create in the steam room that health-improving microclimate, for which, in principle, the bath is most often built.

3. According to the location of the firebox

Both brick and metal bath stoves can have different layouts:

In one version, the entire furnace is located in the steam room, that is, it has to be fired directly from here. This design is certainly cheaper, much easier to manufacture and install, but there are a number of serious drawbacks. So, for example, you can’t create a supply of firewood in a steam room - they simply become saturated with moisture. Thus, if necessary, to maintain the fire, you will have to run out after them to another room or to the street. In addition, a steam room is usually not such a voluminous room, and therefore there is a high risk of getting an accidental burn from touching a red-hot furnace door.

From the point of view of convenience and safety of use, stoves win, in which the door of the combustion chamber is placed in the dressing room, and in the steam room itself there is a heater and, possibly, a tank for heating water. In such a stove, you can keep the fire going without disturbing anyone, and the overall level of safety increases in the steam room.

4. According to the method of heating the heater

Finally, sauna stoves differ in the way the stones are heated.

Currently, constant heating stoves are most often used. In their design, the stones do not have direct contact with the outgoing combustion products - they are placed either in a metal container welded to the stove body, or in special lattice bodies located on the walls or even on the chimney. This arrangement of the furnace is more characteristic of the Finnish sauna. The heating temperature of the stones reaches 300 - 400 degrees. Usually, stones of a fairly small fraction are used, like coarse gravel. They are not covered with soot, as they are isolated from combustion products.

The convenience of such a stove is that the process of heating and, directly, taking bath procedures are not spaced apart in time - you can maintain the fire and, accordingly, the temperature in the steam room for as long as necessary.

Bath furnaces of periodic heating are arranged somewhat differently. Their design implies the removal of hot gases directly through the heater, with their subsequent exit into the chimney. At the same time, stones are heated to extremely high temperatures - up to 1000 degrees. However, after heating the stove, they must wait for the fuel to completely burn out and carbon monoxide to escape - only after that you can proceed to washing. In order not to cool quickly and not give off heavy wet steam, it is usually covered with either a lid or a hinged door.

According to this scheme usually formed classical Russian bath stoves - a heated bath was enough for all family members. When water hits such strongly heated stones, it instantly turns into steam. The main condition is that they should be massive, carefully selected, rounded, of a pronounced dark gray color, and their total mass should be at least 50 kilograms. From time to time, the heater is taken apart to clean the stones from the accumulated soot and replace the collapsed ones.

Schemes of such simple periodic ovens will be discussed below.

It should be noted that there are models of stoves that combine the advantages of both devices. In them, the heater is divided into two areas - unventilated, placed in a special channel through which the combustion products pass, and open.

In such a furnace, there are two heaters - an external ventilated and an internal one, which receives heat from combustion products.

Such stoves are quite complex in design, but they perfectly accumulate heat, and give dry steam, and, if necessary, firewood can be thrown right in the process of washing.

The stove is the heart of the bath. In the absence of the proper skills, it is not easy to make it yourself. Think about what is more important: savings, most often imaginary, or the feeling of comfort that accompanies you during the arrangement of the bath and its use.

Those who prefer effective solutions should pay attention to the options for ready-made sauna stoves. Among them you will find devices that meet all the listed quality criteria, and at the same time have an affordable price.

Thus, among the leaders of the furnace market, heating installations from the Dobrostal Plant company, the winner of the competition “100 Best Goods of Russia”, can be singled out. In the assortment offered by her, such concise models of furnaces as:

"Heat-Extra 400";
"Heat-Lux 20".

The body material of the devices is carbon steel, one of the strongest and most heat-resistant materials. The ergonomic design of these wood-burning stoves allows them to be used not only as a heating unit, but also as a good interior solution.

The Zhara-Extra 400 model is designed for heating a steam room from 4 to 12 m 3 in size. The thickness of the roof and the weight of the furnace can also vary, based on your requirements.

Ovens of the Zhara Lux series offer a wider the lineup, with the ability to choose a device for heating the steam room area from 4 to 30m 3 .

The structures under consideration are equipped with a chimney-coil, which allows:

make traction more uniform;
save fuel.

By the way, the chimney can be disassembled for cleaning at any time.

The device package includes:

grate;
decorative elements;
cast iron door
closed heater with funnel for water supply;
scoop;
detailed installation guide.

Furnaces of the "Heat" series are able to satisfy the needs of an avid lover of a steam room, however, if the bath is not a hobby for you, but a real passion, we advise you to pay attention to the "Augusta Profi" model, equipped with a panoramic glass door. The incomparable comfort of using this device will turn all parts of the bathing procedure into a pleasure.

The model in question is equipped with:

closed-type heater;
steam generation system.

Using the built-in system, you will be able to choose the “mode” for your steam room yourself:

traditional Russian bathhouse;
Finnish sauna for real Vikings;
hammam for lovers of oriental pleasures.

The establishment of convection in the "Augusta Profi" is carried out by adjusting special dampers.

The desired model can also be purchased in simplified model variations "Standard", "Stone", however, it is the "Profi" version that is the most refined, powerful and multifunctional.

The listed designs represent only a small fraction of the Dobrostal Plant model range. We advise you to study it, and find the perfect heart for your steam room.

Prices for fireplaces and stoves

Fireplaces and stoves

How to make a metal stove for a bath yourself

There are countless options for metal bath stoves, and, by and large, anyone can come up with their own, relying on some basic models. As an example, we can cite several very simple stoves, the manufacture of which does not require any special knowledge and skills.

Periodic heating stove for a small family steam room

This is probably one h the simplest options. To make such a furnace, you need a metal sheet with a thickness of about 5 mm (steel St 3). In this case, it makes no sense to make a stove from a thinner sheet - it will burn out very quickly, and it will not retain heat efficiently.

The dimensions of the stove are small - only 900 mm long, 800 - height with legs, and width along the front - 600 mm. It can be placed even in a very small steam room.
For the chimney pipe, you will need a piece of pipe with a diameter of 115 mm. Its length can be different - some prefer a short pipe with a flange for connecting the chimney, others weld in a long enough length that you can put on a hot water tank.
In order for all seams to be durable, it is better to make them on a metal corner with a shelf of 30 × 30 × 3 mm. The same profile will also be needed for shelves and brackets for internal lattice partitions.
In height, the space of the stove is divided into three unequal compartments. The lower, narrowest one is an ash pan (1) with a blower door. The size of this door is usually small, 2-2.5 times smaller than the furnace opening.
Between the ash pan and the firebox (3), cast-iron grates are installed on brackets from the corner.

If they could not be found, then you will have to weld a lattice of parallel bars with a diameter of at least 10 — 12 mm. The distance between the bars is kept the same - about 10 mm.
The upper compartment is a heater through which combustion products are removed during heating of the stove (5). Gases pass freely through the grate (4), heat the stones and are discharged into the chimney (6).
The doors of the combustion chamber and the blower-ashpit are broadcast on welded hinges and are necessarily equipped with latch valves.
The rear part of the heater is welded by one third with a metal sheet (300 × 600 mm), in the center of which a hole is cut, where the chimney pipe is welded, which goes down by 100 - 120 mm.
The diagram does not show the lid that is used to cover the heater during the heating of the sauna stove. It is easy to make it from thin metal (0.8 - 1.0 mm) in such a way that it completely covers the heater and slightly lies down on the body walls. This cover will not allow the stones to cool quickly, and in process the pre-heater of the bath will prevent the direct exit of combustion products into the room, directing them into the chimney pipe. Of course, good traction must be provided for this.

Immediately before the start of bath procedures, this cover is removed and the heater remains in the open position. However, sometimes they also provide a hinged hatch, which is opened when it is necessary to give steam, and the lid is constantly in place, keeping the heat of the stones longer.

When the stove is fully welded, a thorough cleaning and check of the seams, removal of burrs and metal irregularities is carried out. It is recommended to cover the outside of the structure with a heat-resistant varnish specially designed for fireplaces and stoves.

Stones are laid in the compartment intended for them later, after the stove is installed in place in the bath and connected to the chimney. This will be discussed a little later.

The heat from such a stove after heating it should be enough for a full-fledged bath procedure for 2 - 3 people.

Periodically heated metal stove with additional brick walls

Another version of the open type stove, which, however, is somewhat more difficult to manufacture, but its ability to accumulate heat is much higher.

“Double” technology is already being used here - a metal case and internal brickwork. In this case, steel is not needed too thick - sheets of 1.5 - 2.0 mm are enough. For masonry, heat-resistant fireclay brick, and as a solution, it is best to purchase a ready-made dry mortar specially designed for stoves and fireplaces, and knead it in accordance with the preparation instructions.

To begin with, a base is being prepared with legs welded to it with heel pads so that the design of the furnace is stable.
Then, on this basis, the first continuous row of bricks is laid out. All other rows are made in a "half-brick" in the area of \u200b\u200bthe firebox, and in a "quarter" - in the area of chimney channels.
After the camera is laid out ash pan-blower(1), a cast-iron grate is installed between it and the firebox (2). To leave openings for the blower and the loading window during masonry, it is fashionable to use jumpers from a metal corner 20 × 20, but only so as not to disturb the evenness of the inter-row seams.
Above the combustion chamber, a grate of metal rods (Ø 12 mm) is installed, on which stones will subsequently be laid.
On the left or right side of the masonry, at the level of the heater, a window (5) is left, which will serve to load the stones, for their regular inspection and cleaning, and in the process of bathing procedures - for steam generation - water from the ladle will splash into it.
The sinuous chimney channel contributes to the most complete heating of the entire furnace structure and complete afterburning of all combustion products. In the back of this channel, at the level of turning it up, an inspection window is left, where a valve will then be mounted to maximize heat retention after the furnace has been fired.
The upper two rows of bricks are made solid, only with a window for the exit of combustion products - in this place the chimney pipe will then be welded.
When the brickwork is finished, and the mortar has set well enough, it is possible to sequentially weld the walls of the metal case to the base, which in this case plays the role of a kind of “case”. To facilitate this task, and at the same time to achieve tightness of the welds, a corner of 20 × 20 mm can be put on top of the joints.
When marking the workpiece for the front wall, openings for the ash pan and the loading window of the combustion chamber are immediately outlined and cut out. After the front wall is in place, hinges are welded on which the doors of both chambers with locking devices are hung. The door leafs themselves should be 10–15 mm wider in each direction than the recessed windows in order to ensure tight closing. It would be useful to install an asbestos seal around the perimeter or even over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe inner surface of the firebox door.

During the installation of the side wall, from the side of the steam window left in the masonry, a opening and a metal door with a seal is installed. It is better to make it fold down and equip it with a “cold” handle so that you can open it during washing to give steam.
The stove cover is welded last with a pre-cut hole for the chimney pipe. Then a piece of pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is welded.
The stove will be loaded with stones after it is installed in the bathhouse at the prepared place.

Constant heating stoves with an open heater

It is even easier to build such stoves from a metal sheet or other available materials.

The figure shows an easy-to-manufacture stove made from trimming a metal thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 325 mm.

The pipe cavity itself is divided into two compartments by a grate. The upper, main one, serves as a firebox, the lower one serves as an ashpit-blower. Both compartments have their own doors, respectively, for laying firewood and providing air supply and cleaning.

Closer to the far, completely muffled end of the pipe, a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is welded.

A metal box is welded on top of the cylindrical body, which will be filled with stones. In order to ensure maximum heating of the stones, it is possible to make the chimney in this area not straight, but with a curved elbow - the contact area of the hot pipe with the heater will increase significantly.

It will not be difficult to make a similar stove in the form of a parallelepiped, using metal sheets as blanks.

Very often, these stoves are equipped with hot water tanks. In the photo of the stove from the pipe, it is placed on the back plug, which is also the wall of the water tank.

In the manufacture of rectangular structures, there are much more options - tanks are placed on either side, on top, or even make a semblance of a “water jacket” from several sides, with a tie-in of cold and hot water supply pipes.

Another convenient option for solving the issue of heating water can be the installation of a special heat exchange tank on the chimney pipe.

Such water heaters can be made independently, but it is also possible to purchase a finished factory product that has a ton of a certain standard diameter. All that remains is to embed this tank into the vertical part of the chimney above the stove and connect the water supply and withdrawal pipes.

Such tanks can themselves have sufficient volume, or serve only as a heat exchanger and be connected to the main water tank.

Video: an interesting simple design of a metal stove for a bath

Preparing the site for installing the stove

Making your own stove for a bath is only half the battle. It is necessary to carefully prepare a place for its installation directly in the room.

Even just a metal stove is a fairly massive structure, especially if you add to its own weight the weight of the stone laying and the weight of the filled hot water tank. Thus, it is necessary to prepare the base - a kind of podium on which it will be installed. It is best to provide your own foundation for it.

To do this, a small pit (up to 500 mm deep) comes off in a selected place.
A sand layer up to 100 mm is laid on the bottom, then, after tamping, another 200 mm gravel and crushed stone backfill.
A layer of cut-off waterproofing is laid - usually roofing material is used for this.
Then a concrete solution is poured to the ground level with a filling of sand and fine gravel.

After this site has completely solidified (at least 3 weeks), a layer of roofing material is laid on top of it, and then a continuous laying of baked bricks is performed
The masonry is carried out either to the level of the "clean" floor of the bath, or even a little, 100 - 150 mm higher, thus constructing a raised podium for installing the stove.

Put the oven on concrete base it is impossible - for all the seeming solidity and strength, it will certainly begin to crack and crumble under conditions of high humidity and high temperatures.

From walls, especially wooden ones, the stove should be located at a distance of at least 200 mm. The walls must be sheathed with heat-resistant material - stainless steel sheet or "Isover" - foil thermal insulator based on harmless basalt mineral wool.

Izover is an excellent material for thermal insulation of bath walls at the installation site of the stove.

Very often, metal stoves are “dressed” in brickwork. This gives a number of advantages - there is less risk of getting burned on hot walls, plus brickwork will be another fairly capacious heat accumulator.

You can learn more about this process from. Here are just a few important notes:

The distance from metal walls to brickwork is recommended to be kept at 100 mm. This is necessary for normal air circulation - a powerful convection flow will be created, contributing to uniform and rapid heating of the steam room. For the same purpose, special windows must be provided below the masonry. The metal walls of the stove, lined with bricks on the outside without a gap, close, due to a violation of normal heat transfer, will burn out very quickly.

For masonry, only natural clay oven mortar or special building mixtures designed specifically for such purposes, with pronounced moisture and moisture properties, can be used. thermal stability.
The brick lining of the stove must be thought out in advance - this is taken into account when pouring the foundation and laying out the brick podium.

Refractory brick prices

Refractory brick

Stone laying

The efficiency of a home-made bath stove will also largely depend on the stones - the correctness of their selection and laying out in the heater.

Even a small stove requires no less than a 50-kilogram stack, but it’s still better to focus on 80 for a family bath. — 100 kg.

It is better to choose cobblestones with a rounded shape, even gray color, without surface flaws (cracks or breaks). It is desirable that the stones be of various sizes - from 50 to 150 mm.

Granite for sauna stove absolutely useless. Firstly, its structure is unstable to frequent processes of strong heating with simultaneous exposure to steam - destruction will begin very quickly. Secondly, granite always contains mica inclusions, and when heated, they are capable of emitting quite toxic fumes.

Jadeite is one of the best options for a heater. In addition to its natural beauty, it is also credited with medicinal properties.

The best materials, in addition to the usual natural cobblestone, are talc chloride, basalt or jadeite. Such stones of various sizes can be purchased at specialized stores.

It is very important to lay the stones correctly. The layout begins in such a way that the largest, most massive of them are at the bottom. They will not prevent the passage of heat to those located above and will create a powerful supply of heat. Then stones of medium size are laid out, and only at the very top - small in size.

This order will provide the upper layer of stones with heating to a temperature of 300 - 400 º - exactly what is needed for dry steam. When water hits well-heated stones, evaporation occurs literally instantly and is accompanied by a characteristic crack.

If the stones are flattened, then when laying them, their spatial orientation must also be taken into account. With their long side, they should be located along the main heat flow, otherwise a kind of “locking” will occur when the lower stones overheat and the upper ones do not reach the required temperature regime.

Neglecting the rules for laying stones will drastically reduce the overall healing effect of the bath. The steam will begin to "get heavy" very quickly, and although it is possible that general temperature in the steam room will not decrease significantly, staying in it will do more harm than good - in a waterlogged room there is simply nothing to breathe.

Video: how to properly lay stones in a sauna stove

Prices for various types of stones for furnaces

Stones for stoves

So, a do-it-yourself sauna stove is a completely feasible task, if all technological nuances are taken into account during manufacture, and the established safety requirements are observed during installation. But a self-made stove will not only help save a fairly significant amount, but will also become the pride of the owner when it becomes possible to invite his friends to the bath.

The stove in a real Russian bath should be economical and produce healthy heat. According to these criteria, wood heaters outperform electric and gas heat generators. But there is a third, no less important plus: you can make a metal stove for a bath with your own hands, provided that you are good at electric welding. The brick version of the heater is also good, but not available to everyone due to the price of materials and the complexity of laying in the finished steam room. So choose a home-made unit from the models proposed in our publication and start manufacturing using step by step instructions and drawings.

The choice of the design of the sauna stove

Ideally, a heat source made of metal should meet the following requirements:

Quickly warm up and raise the temperature in the steam room. With this, iron stoves do an excellent job.
Keep warm as long as possible. Since steel heats up and cools quickly, you will need a heater that stores heat, or an increase in the burning time of the firebox. The third option is to overlay the sauna stove with bricks after installation.
Occupy a minimum of usable space in the steam room. If the volume of this room is too small, then it is better to choose a vertical design with a loading door placed in the dressing room.
The heater must be safe for people washing in the bath. To protect yourself from burns, you can install a convection casing made of sheet iron on the case or, again, build a brick wall around the case.

Note. The duration of burning increases with the volume of the fuel chamber of the unit. Here you need to find a reasonable balance between the size of the stove and the duration of its operation. A small firebox will have to be constantly loaded with firewood, instead of calmly washing, and a large stove will take up half the area of \u200b\u200bthe steam room.

Do-it-yourself iron stoves for a bath are of the following designs:

with a body oriented in space vertically or horizontally;
melted directly from the steam room or from the next room (a remote firebox door is made);
with and without a water tank;
with outdoor or indoor heater.

Vertical heater

The vertical body of the stove shown in the photo gives 1 advantage - saving space in the bath. There are more disadvantages: a short burning time (due to the fact that the flame covers the entire laying of firewood) and not too high heat transfer. According to these important parameters, a horizontal bath heater outperforms a vertical one, but at the same time it occupies a large area.

Horizontal stove with heater and tank

If there is no bath electric water heater, it costs nothing to put a tank for heating water intended for washing on the stove or chimney. It can be welded from ordinary metal, and preferably from stainless steel. There is a more convenient way to heat water: a tank located in the washing room is connected by pipes to a samovar-type steel heat exchanger installed on the chimney.

Steel heat exchanger for chimney

The open heater, inherited from the Finnish sauna, heats up to a maximum of 400 ° C, but it can be poured with water in order to "succumb to the park." Kamenka, closed inside the body of the stove, accumulate more heat, warming up to 700-800 ° C, but at the same time they are polluted by passing flue gases and therefore require periodic cleaning.

Reference. Some craftsmen assemble metal stoves with internal brickwork, whose diagram is shown above. They serve for a long time without burning out the walls, but they are difficult to manufacture, and fireclay bricks cost money. You can learn more about various bath heaters by watching the video:

Preparation of materials

It is best to make a stove in a bath from a steel pipe with a diameter of 300-500 mm or a gas cylinder. There are several reasons:

the pipe is a ready-made body of the unit, which simplifies things;
a cylindrical shape is preferable to a rectangular one for reasons of aerodynamics (air flow) and heat transfer;
vaulted walls without seams will last longer than flat ones;
a round firebox is easier to clean from ash and soot.

Advice. It is more convenient to make an ash pan from sheet metal 2 mm thick, and 3 mm iron will go to the doors. Try not to use high-carbon steel grades higher than St35, which can harden from exposure to high temperatures, deform and burst at the seams. The correct furnace is welded from the St3 brand.

Door manufacturing steps

The grate can be made from corners or fittings of a periodic profile. The budget option is a sheet of thick iron with longitudinal slots, purchased - cast iron grates. It is desirable to make the doors double-layered with a basalt fiber gasket (pictured) so as not to get burned if accidentally touched.

Kamenka stove - manufacturing guide

We bring to your attention 3 common designs of metal stoves for a bath:

a simple horizontal stove from a cylinder, melted inside a steam room;
a heater from a 530 mm pipe with an external firebox;
vertical sauna boiler "three in one".

The first option is attractive due to its ease of manufacture, small size and mobility. For homemade, you will need an old propane cylinder with a diameter of 300 or 500 mm and scrap metal. The second heater is distinguished by an additional section with a door built into the opening of the steam room wall and an open heater. The third model is a whole boiler, consisting of three compartments - a firebox, a closed heater and a tank for heating water.

Advice. If you can’t find a good pipe or cylinder, cook the stove according to the drawing from sheet steel with a thickness of at least 3 mm (preferably 5 mm). First, you will have to perform a series of operations to assemble the firebox - cutting blanks and welding them together with strict observance of 90 ° angles.

On the drawings - variants of heating units made of sheet iron

We weld a simple stove

The first thing to do is to properly cut off the cylinder cap along the factory seam. To do this, unscrew the gas valve with an open-end wrench and fill the container with water, after which you can work as a grinder.

Reference. Propane is heavier than air, and therefore reluctant to leave closed vessels. In order not to get an explosion when cutting metal, it is customary to displace it from there with the help of water.

Assemble the heater according to the presented drawing, observing the following order:

Cut openings at the end of the cover for mounting the doors and in the housing for the chimney pipe. From strips of metal, make frames for the loading and ash doors, weld them to the openings.
Assemble the grate for welding and place it on the corners fixed inside the cylinder. Weld the cut cover in place.
Make the sashes as shown in the photo. Install them on hinges and attach constipation.
Attach legs and a chimney to the body.

After assembly, the stove for a bath from a gas cylinder is melted on the street in order to burn out all the old paint. Then it can be degreased and repainted using a heat-resistant composition of the KO series.

Production of a unit with a remote firebox

To make such a furnace, you need to prepare metal parts and cut the pipe to size, guided by the drawing:

Advice. When preparing metal for an additional section of the heater, measure the thickness of the wall between the steam room and the dressing room. So you will know the width of the stackable part that will fit into the opening of the partition.

Follow the instructions below for further work:

Cut a hole in the upper part of the pipe, weld the chimney pipe to it, and the legs from the bottom of the firebox. Install the grates as described in the previous section.
Make the front section and weld it to the firebox. Weld a blank metal disk to the rear end of the housing.
Make doors with handles insulated with basalt wool and install them in place.

An important point. The lower plane of the remote firebox should be flush with the pipe wall for easy cleaning of the ash pan.

From above, to the finished stove, it remains to weld the frame for the heater from the corners, sheathed with a large-mesh metal mesh. After firing, staining and installation in the bath in place, fill the grid with special stones from the list:

basalt;
river pebbles;
gabbro diabase;
soapstone.

How a similar sauna stove is made in practice is described in detail in the video:

Making a vertical boiler

A feature of the round unit shown in the drawing is the presence of 3 chambers - fuel, heater and water tank. Their value can vary according to your desire, for example, the larger the size of the firebox you make, the longer 1 bookmark of firewood will burn. Increasing the heater will allow to accumulate more heat, which is released for a long time after the fuel burns out.

Advice. Do not greatly increase the volume of the tank with water, otherwise it will not have time to warm up by the time of washing.

The assembly order of the boiler looks like this:

Cut blanks of partitions, bottom and cover from metal with a thickness of at least 5 mm. Prepare the ends of the pipe and weld round grates.
In the case, make openings for doors and a hatch for loading stones.
Make holes in the partitions for the chimney and install them inside the pipe. Attach the tank lid to the hinges.
Make doors from semi-circular cut-out pieces and place them on awnings.
Install a chimney channel and a water drain valve at the bottom of the tank.

If desired, even in this furnace, you can make a remote firebox. To do this, you need to build up the loading and ash channel, welding blanks of metal of the required width to the side of the pipe, as shown in the photo above. The correct assembly of such a heat generator is shown in detail in the following video:

Installing a stove in a bath

Since the right steam room is always built of wood, the main requirement when installing a wood-burning heater is fire safety. To endure it, follow simple rules:

the stove cannot be placed directly on a wooden floor, but only on a sheet of iron protruding 70 cm in front of the firebox;
wall cladding made of combustible materials must also be protected from fire with sheets of roofing iron or mineralite;
when installing a heater with the removal of the firebox, the opening in the wooden partition is also sheathed with non-combustible materials, as is done in the photo;
the distance from the insulated chimney pipe to wooden building structures is 38 cm.

The channel for the removal of combustion products to the street is recommended to be made of a double-walled sandwich filled with basalt wool. Often, the same square-shaped water tank is used to isolate the chimney, built right into the ceiling. How to properly install the stove in the bath is shown in the diagram:

Important. Do not use sheet or cord asbestos for thermal insulation inside the bathhouse, it emits dust that is harmful to health.

Conclusion

When a homeowner is faced with a choice - to lay down a stone sauna stove or put a metal one, then the majority tends to the second option as more economical. A homemade iron stove will come out even cheaper, in addition, it is ideal in all respects, because you yourself will think over its design. Don't know how to weld? Save money otherwise by ordering the assembly of the unit in a specialized workshop.

Some people prefer to make stove equipment for a bath on their own. This is due not only to the economy mode, but also the ability to assemble exactly the stove that is suitable for a particular room. If you are also going to make a do-it-yourself sauna stove from metal with a water tank, the drawing is far from the only thing you will need. Knowledge, ability to read blueprints, appropriate tools and materials. And in any case, a home-made stove will allow you to rationally spend money and translate all your ideas into the unit.

The quality and benefits of a bath largely depend on which stove is installed and how it works. The difference between a real Russian bath and a hammam or sauna lies in the high (over 70%) humidity in the room at a temperature of at least 80 0 C.

Often such a stove is made of stone, for which fireclay (clay) bricks or granite are suitable. Any other stones simply will not withstand the heat and may burst when water hits them. V Lately metal stoves began to be popular, which are in no way inferior to stone stoves. Such ovens can be purchased at most specialized stores, but each of them will need fine-tuning. Do-it-yourself stoves are much more economical, but just as efficient.

Video 1 Sauna stove

Homemade models

There are 2 main constructive varieties of homemade sauna stoves:

vertical, which can be made from a thick-walled pipe of the appropriate diameter;
horizontal, based on a metal barrel or an inactive gas cylinder.

In this article we will tell you how to make each do-it-yourself sauna stove from metal with a water tank - drawings, detailed description, list of materials and recommendations of specialists.

Horizontal

The drawing of a horizontal stove for a bath is quite simple. According to the same principle, with minor modifications, the Heat ovens are manufactured.

angle grinder (grinder);
two pipe fragments 10-12 mm long, 750 mm long, 500 mm in diameter;
fragment of a pipe 350 mm with a diameter of 200 mm;
chimney pipe with a diameter of 114 mm;
reinforcement or rods;
2 sets of door hinges;
3-5 metal sheets 8-ka;
4 sheets of stainless steel from which the tank will be welded;
tap.

The design of the furnace provides for the possibility of installing a tank both on the furnace body and separately. The heating time varies slightly.

The main pipe 750 mm is located horizontally, this will be the furnace body. For stability, you can immediately weld a stand on it. Often the supports are made from end pieces, this adds aesthetics and the stove looks more finished.
A third of the diameter was measured from the lower boundary of the pipe, and from this point you measure the distance from the wall to the wall of the pipe.
Cut out a rectangle from a steel sheet, where the smaller side will be equal to this distance, and the larger one - 75 cm. This is the future base for firewood.
In the center of the cut out rectangle, cut out a square for the grate. The size of the square should match the finished grate, or weld rods or reinforcement here.
Insert the resulting structure into the pipe and weld along the edges.
For the manufacture of end sidewalls from steel sheets, cut out 2 rectangles 70 x 53 cm and fix them on the main pipe by welding.
For future doors of the blower and firebox, cut holes on the front part. Weld the hinges and put on the doors.
On the top of the pipe, make a hole for the chimney. Its diameter is not critical, but should not differ greatly from the size of the chimney. Put on the pipe and brew it. The chimney itself can be put on at the very end so that it does not interfere with further work.
Cut a 350 mm pipe into 2 equal parts, after which you weld the edge of one of them. Exactly in the center, make a hole for the chimney pipe so that the diameters match. Cover the case with a lid so that the holes do not match. This direction failure is designed to keep the smoke out and keep the stove warm. The whole structure is welded.
You weld a basket for stones from reinforcement or steel bars, install it above the firebox, putting it on a hemisphere (see diagram).
From stainless steel, you weld a tank of a suitable diameter, separately for it you make a removable cover with a handle and fasteners on which the tank will be hung.

Video 2 We make a metal sauna stove with our own hands from A to Z

Vertical model

It should be noted that the choice of design depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe steam room or the room where it will be installed and the ability to work with the material. If there is a desire and faith in one's own strength, in order to make a do-it-yourself sauna stove from metal with a water tank, the drawing is the most important thing.

Experienced craftsmen consider this kind of stove to be the least efficient and very impractical. In order for the stove to cope with its tasks, the water tank must be placed at the top.

Necessary tools and materials:

welding machine and electrodes;
Bulgarian;
brush for cleaning seams (if you have experience, you can clean it with a grinder);
1.5-meter fragment of a pipe 8-10 mm thick with a diameter of 500-550 mm;
2-meter pipe with a diameter of 100 mm;
metal sheet 10-14 mm;
paint for metal;
firebox door

All materials can be purchased at scrap metal collection points, but they must all be solid, without corrosion holes.

Cut a pipe with a diameter of 500-550 mm lengthwise into 3 segments of approximately the same length.
A firebox is made from the first fragment, for which 2 circles of the corresponding diameter are cut out of a metal sheet and the bottom and top of the pipe are welded.
A hole is cut out on the front side of this pipe for loading fuel, after which hinges are welded to it and a door is put on.
On the upper part of the pipe (in the lid), a grinder cuts a hole with a diameter of 85-90 mm, to which a 100 mm pipe is welded. This is the future chimney.
The basis of the design does not imply the presence of an ash pan and, accordingly, a grate for separating the combustion chamber. If you wish, you can make such an element (see above), but at the same time, the height of the furnace should not be less than 500 mm.

According to a similar principle, furnaces for the Finnish bath are made.

There are more efficient types of stoves, where the chimney is installed from the second chamber. But in this case, you will have to cut several holes on the top.

After the firebox is finished, a second piece of pipe 750 mm is put on it and welded around the perimeter. This bunker will contain stones for the future furnace, which is responsible for proper heat exchange in the steam room.

This is how a ready-made vertical stove for a bath looks schematically in a section:

In each compartment, it is necessary to make a hole for the chimney pipe. All junctions of the compartments with the pipe are carefully welded, and the seams are cleaned.

A tank will be created from the third pipe fragment, which is also put on the finished structure and welded around the perimeter. The heating of water in this compartment will be carried out simultaneously from the metal and the gases released during combustion moving up the chimney.

When using electric arc welding, it is necessary to use electrodes for the corresponding metal so that the seam that is created during the welding process heats up at the same time and does not burst.

The lid for the tank is cut according to the diameter of the pipe from a thick-walled sheet in such a way as to go around the chimney. Some craftsmen are used to cover wooden shields, but this is impractical.

Upon completion of all work, the seams are cleaned with a grinder or a metal brush, the stove is primed and covered with a special heat-resistant paint for metal. The price of such paint is quite high, but it will last at least 10-15 years of regular operation of the furnace.

For simultaneous and uniform heating of the steam room and dressing room, the stove should be installed in 2 rooms. At the same time, the loaded firebox is located in the dressing room, and the container with stones and the water tank are in the steam room. This will make operation more efficient and safer.
The wall in which the stove will be mounted must not be made of flammable materials. If this is not possible, the wall should be separated from the furnace with asbestos sheets, sewn, in turn, with metal.
Before using the stove, it is necessary to make and repeatedly check the supply and exhaust ventilation. This will eliminate the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.

As you can see, anyone can make a do-it-yourself sauna stove from metal with a water tank - a drawing, step-by-step explanations, videos and recommendations from the masters will help you with this.

Before dealing with the issue of installing stoves for a bath, we ourselves spent a lot of time studying this topic. Therefore, we know that people who have an idea about the designs of sauna stoves usually do not condescend to explain everything from the basics, and most of the texts on the Internet are completely written by those who are not at all in the subject.

Listen to article

Bath stove designs: common points and differences for different types

So what is a stove? This is a fire built inside a container. But combustion is an oxidation reaction of fuel, therefore, it cannot occur without oxygen. Therefore, we will call the oven the container through which, at least temporarily, with the dampers open, flowing air moves.

thrust

This movement is called "pull" and it occurs when there is inlet and outlet holes.

Of course, such a definition suffers from incompleteness, because it does not apply to . V They are heated by the passage of current through a material with high resistance. In this case, heat is released.

But back to furnaces, where heat is released due to chemical reaction. The art of the stove-maker consists in skillfully varying the amount of incoming air, the amount of firewood in the bookmark, in order to achieve them uniform combustion and maximum complete combustion.

What will happen if the combustion is still ongoing, and the air is blocked? Instead of carbon dioxide, dangerous monoxide will begin to form - carbon monoxide. But why block the pipe if it is so dangerous? - The draft is blocked so as not to dry out the stove when the firewood burned out, because along with the air, heat also flies into the pipe.

So, we know about the role of air. Let's see a diagram of a simple draft furnace. What must be in it? Three things:

air inlet (blower or firebox door);
firebox (aka firebox);
outlet (chimney).

The first division of stoves can be carried out according to the presence or absence of a blower: without it, they are called "deaf hearth ovens". In this case, air is supplied through the open firebox door. Here's what it looks like in cross section:

Kamenka

Now let's ask a question: what do all sauna stoves have, but absent from stoves that heat houses? Of course it is heater. The container in which the stones lie is available for all stoves in the bath, even for electric ones. The stones themselves are used as batteries- they store heat. This is necessary so that the high temperature in the steam room lasts longer. Their other function is creating light steam, but in this capacity they are needed only in a Russian bath.

There are two classifications of heaters according to different criteria: one takes into account contact with fire in the furnace, the second - contact with air.

If there are gaps between the firebox and the heater through which the stones are licked by flames, then this flow heater.

If the barrier is deaf, then the heater is called deaf.

When the container with stones is inside.

Furnaces are either brick, or metal. No other is given. The first are considered very inertial - It takes hours to heat them up, as well as to cool them down.. The latter are able to heat up in half an hour and during the same time have time to overheat the steam room. Excellent property!

When choosing a design, you determine for yourself how inertial its body should be. At your disposal are not only "clean" options: purely brick, purely, but also combined. For example, to increase the inertia of a metal stove, you can either use internal lining of the firebox and heater, or with the help of external. Moreover, the option with a casing and lining at the same time is not excluded).

Important! Answer the question, what time is optimal for you to kindle the furnace - it determines the degree of inertia of the body.

Smoke

What happens when fuel burns? Heat is released, combustion products are formed - steam, gases and solids. The latter we call soot, soot, and all together - smoke. At the time of exit from the furnace, this mixture is also heated to several hundred degrees. And if you don't put some heat-consuming obstacle, all this heat will corny fly away into the pipe to enhance the greenhouse effect on our planet.

However, once upon a time not only obstacles, but also pipes did not exist. Because it was not from wood that they were made! Therefore, the first way to remove smoke - chimneyless, "black".

In the simplest version, this pile of stones stacked over a fire. In the modern version, this is a brick hearth, which keeps the same pile of stones from spreading. But the principle is the same: he made a fire under the stones, waited for the firewood to burn out, let the smoke out into the street through or - and you can bathe by pouring water on the heated stones.

Then appears smoke box- akin to a kitchen hood - the same separated from the stove. A similar option can still be found in the bath today.

Then appears chimney pipe. And if it is inserted into the stove without any fuss (it doesn’t matter in the firebox or heater), then such a stove will be called once-through. Heat here is not taken from the furnace gases, so it has the lowest efficiency.

But heat is a pity, so the idea of the inventors went this way: what if we increase the path that smoke passes inside the furnace? This is how the system came into being. smoke circulation, where the smoke runs with obstacles inside the channels that lead it up and down, or horizontally to the right and left. The system is excellent for heat extraction, but with its drawbacks - channels, especially horizontal ones, should be cleaned regularly otherwise there will be no traction.

An alternative to the smoke circulation system has become bell stove. There are no channels in it, it practically does not depend on traction. Hot furnace gases, leaving the firebox, find themselves under a hood, where they actively share heat with the furnace mass. New portions of hot furnace gases rise, displacing the cooled ones down and into the chimney.

but everything said about the chimney primarily refers to brick stoves. You rarely see a metal stove with smoke circulation. Usually they are primitive - direct-flow, except that they have flame dividers. Yes, and their dimensions are much smaller than those of brick ones, there you can’t walk around with moves, and there is no heat-intensive material - where to take the heat?

The stove ends with a chimney. Remains optional - tank or heat exchanger, which can also be indicated on the sauna stove diagram. But it is better to talk about this when analyzing specific structures, to which, in fact, we are moving on.

Scheme of a brick sauna stove

From the foregoing, it already followed that there are several basic schemes of a brick oven:

straight-through;
with smoke circulation;
bell-shaped.

However, each allows for many implementation options. In other words, the above diagrams clearly demonstrate the characteristic, but do not exhaust the possible.

Sauna oven device: direct-flow

Furnace made of metal with a lined fuel core

Lining is the laying out of fireclay or simply refractory bricks of the insides of the stove. At the same time, the inertia sharply increases, and with it, the heating time. So, if you need to overheat the steam room in half an hour, the lining will be superfluous.

BUT! She has one important plus: it increases the life of the furnace, because its body is subjected to less temperature stress. And this is in addition to the fact that such an oven keeps heat longer.

We show the most a simple circuit with firebox lining and closed heater:

Options for the location of the water tank on a metal stove

Above, you have already seen that the tank can simply be placed on top of the stove and everything will heat up. But you can do it differently.

Below - schemes for combining the heater and the tank, from the simplest ones, where a bucket is buried in stones or a heater is brought into a separate container where furnace gases enter, while the tank stands directly above the fire (the water boils before the stones heat up) to variations on the rational use of the top of the furnace, where you can separate the space for the tank horizontally or vertically, or you can go around the heater on both sides, leaving an air pocket on one of the opposite sides, which, as they say, promotes heat transfer. Full details are provided.

Options for the location of the tank and heater:

Yes, and of course, always when there is a need for hot water, you can replace the tank with a heat exchanger of one type or another. If you are interested in learning more about this, read on.

Metal heater from a pipe

On our website you can find, which tells how to make such a heater. Here we will only present the schemes themselves with some comments.

So, the choice of the owner has two options for a stove from a pipe:

vertical;
horizontal.

Usually take a pipe half a meter in diameter. The figure shows that the pipe can be lined from the inside(or you can leave it as is, then it will burn out faster). in yellow chamotte is shown along the walls.

Also, the owner is free to choose a stove with a deaf hearth or blower. The difference between them was discussed above. But pay attention to the oven door with a blind hearth- in order not to keep it open, holes are drilled in it, which provide air flow if the pipe is not blocked at the top with a gate. If you lengthen it a little due to the blower, then the thrust will be regulated by opening blower door. Then the holes become redundant.

The water tank is shown in both pictures, but is actually optional. Some make it lower by welding a metal box with a lid on the side of the furnace - this for ease of pouring in the absence of cold water supply in the bath.

The horizontal stove has a completely different structure - it turns out a heater open. This is a welded stone basket - with such a stove you can’t get good steam.

Yes, and in the picture we depicted the grate (under the flame) recognizable, but in reality its grate perpendicular to the direction you see here.

The water tank is welded to the rear wall of the stove.

Useful video

Not just diagrams, but also a description of the advantages and disadvantages of a vertical and horizontal design (not necessarily from a pipe). Plus interesting life hacks.

Even more schemes, even more explanations about them. However, the main concern of the author of the video is that you succeed. So sauna lovers can not watch it).

We hope that you still received some kind of holistic understanding of what a sauna stove is. The rest can only be learned through practice and experiment. Good luck to you!

Where can I buy

Useful information can also be obtained from professionals - employees of various types.

In contact with

A do-it-yourself sauna stove is made in the case when industrial production devices do not suit the homeowner. The thing is that the bath is characterized by the creation of a unique microclimate, since it maintains a strictly defined indicator of humidity and temperature, depending on the type of steam room. The steam room can at the same time have the most diverse configuration, size and location of the shelves. As a result, stoves purchased in a store do not always heat it with high quality, and you have to make the necessary design yourself.

Requirements for homemade sauna stoves

Homemade bath stoves in any case must meet certain requirements. So, for example, they must be absolutely safe in terms of fire. This is especially important when a do-it-yourself iron sauna stove is installed in rooms with wooden walls. At the same time, they should maintain a comfortable temperature level in your bath.

In addition, there are purely technical issues that any oven must withstand. First, by general requirement For the formation of a light and pleasant steam, it is necessary for the stones in the oven to heat up to 200-700 ° C. To do this, it is necessary to properly equip the furnace and chimney in it.

If the sauna stove is properly welded or laid out, it will maintain a temperature of 40-45 ° C at the floor and 90-100 ° C under the shelf during steaming and washing. Such heat will allow the steamer to stay in the bathhouse for a long time without any damage to his health. At the same time, the heat should be kept in the furnace for at least 3 hours from the moment the fuel supply to it ends.

Secondly, it must necessarily contain efficient system removal of carbon monoxide, smoke and other products of combustion. Otherwise, instead of getting pleasure, vapers face serious harm to health, and even death from suffocation. Ventilation system and the chimney can be both natural and working with the help of a supercharger.

Thirdly, it is necessary to choose the right place for installing the furnace. So, for example, the installation of a stove in a do-it-yourself bath is carried out exclusively on a foundation specially erected earlier. This protects the bath from fire and allows you to build a lighter foundation structure for its walls and other structural elements.

A metal welded furnace also has to be installed according to special requirements, for example, in order to protect the building from fire, it is sometimes lined with bricks. In the same case, when this cannot be done, it is necessary to install it at some distance from the walls, put a thick sheet of asbestos on the floor under it.

Optimal technical parameters of homemade bath stoves

Made by hand, it must also meet some optimal technical parameters. For example, it should have a sufficiently high heat transfer power, since it heats up the air and stones for steam generation in the steam room, and in addition, the air in adjacent rooms. For the normal functioning of the bath complex, the power of the stove must be at least 28 kW.

The design of the furnace must be adapted to the room in which it will be placed. For example, there are designs with open and closed heaters, as well as entire steam generators, which require a large area for their placement.

Most of the technical parameters of stoves directly affect fuel consumption and, accordingly, the fee for it.

In addition, all homemade stoves must be designed and assembled taking into account the characteristics of the floor or foundation of both the stove, in the case of its construction, and the entire building. The fact is that if you, for example, weld a massive metal stove, then the floor of the bath may simply not withstand it, and you also need to take into account the weight of the fuel loaded into it.

Thus, if you are going to make a stove for a steam room on your own, you will first need to make calculations and find out whether your design can, in principle, be placed in a bath. Next, you need to draw up a construction scheme or, better, a project. By adhering to them, you can optimally equip your bath, ensuring its efficient heating.

Types of stoves for baths

If you are going to make such a device as with your own hands, the drawings for this should be selected taking into account the material from which you plan to make it, as well as the type of fuel with which you are going to heat the bath. The following designs are currently popular:

metal;
brick.

Depending on the type of fuel used, stoves for the bath complex can be divided into several categories:

wood and coal stoves;
stoves that use gas as fuel;
electric stoves for baths.

If you know how to weld a sauna stove with your own hands, you should also have an idea about the advantages of this design.

For example, metal furnaces are resistant even to serious mechanical damage, heat up quickly and have a long service life. At the same time, cast iron products are most in demand among metal furnaces, since they do not deform under the influence of heat and keep heat for a long time. In everyday life, most often they are made of stainless steel with a thickness of at least 5 mm.

The disadvantage of metal furnaces is their high fire hazard, since at high temperatures the metal heats up, and if combustible material gets on it, it may ignite. Stone stoves are spared from such a disadvantage, but they are expensive, they are afraid of mechanical damage, and not every stove-maker can put them down now.

As for fuel, most of the stoves for country baths are powered by firewood. In this case, not only firewood itself is used, but wood waste and pellets. The advantages of such systems include: efficiency, low cost of fuel, independence from electrical wiring and gas pipelines.

It is also worth noting such a circumstance as the unique atmosphere created during the rest. The disadvantages of wood-burning stoves include the following points: a long warm-up of the premises and the stove itself, the need to often clean the chimney, as well as the obligation of the owner of the bath to always keep and replenish the supply of firewood.

In turn, they can work fully automatically, without human intervention. They start working from the moment the electricity is turned on or the gas is ignited in the furnace. As a result, the steam room is prepared for soaring in just 10-15 minutes. At the same time, these types of bath stoves need to be equipped with high-quality and efficient ventilation. In addition, experts in the bath business note the fact that gas will cost more than firewood, and electricity will be cheaper.

Making a homemade metal oven

A do-it-yourself iron bath stove is made in accordance with standard drawings, which can be found quite easily on the Internet. To begin with, you will need to select the material and tools necessary for the production of work. At the same time, you will perform almost all operations for assembling the furnace using welding machine and an angle grinder.

As for the material, you will need a metal sheet, preferably chrome-plated, at least 5 mm thick. He will go to the ash pan. On the frame of the furnace, you can use such a sheet and at the same time a metal corner, 3-5 mm thick.

To make the firebox and the bottom of the water tank, you will have to prepare a thicker material - 7-10 mm. You will also need metal pipes of different diameters for arranging the chimney and the piping system of the furnace. But the doors for the firebox will need to be purchased ready-made in the building and household goods store. It is best if they are made of cast iron, but if necessary, they can be welded by yourself from the remnants of a thick-walled pipeline.

You can also buy a mesh for stones, but in any case, fittings and valves, as well as grate bars, will have to be purchased, since it will not be possible to make these elements on your own. They are inexpensive, so you can buy them quite easily.

After the material is prepared, you can begin to collect the furnace. To do this, they take a drawing and, on its basis, begin to cut blanks with the help of an angle grinder and weld them together. At the same time, special attention should be paid to the assembly of the chimney and furnace as the most critical sections of the entire structure.

Separately, it is worth noting the fact that when the question arises of how to make a stove in a bathhouse with your own hands, they are always interested in whether it is necessary to line the metal structure with bricks? A possible waste of fuel is against such a decision, because the furnaces, in addition to metal, will also have to be heated with bricks. However, everything can be compensated by the beautiful appearance your steam room and the unique microclimate formed in the room from heated bricks.

Homemade stone oven

The second popular option for heating a bath, along with metal products, is a stone stove. The fact is that a do-it-yourself stove for a sauna creates a unique Russian design in the steam room. In addition, the stone stove generates high-quality heat and air in the sauna room, and therefore will not have any foreign odors and inclusions.

The construction of such a heating system begins with laying the foundation. Usually, a foundation pit is dug under it with a depth of 70 cm, while its bottom is lined with a mixture of sand and gravel. Then broken bricks are added, spilled with water and the reinforcement is laid after it dries, after which the foundation pit is poured with concrete.

At the same time, before pouring, a formwork is mounted that protrudes 15 cm above the ground. After the completion of the pouring procedure, it is removed, and the finished foundation is at your disposal. For the purpose of waterproofing, its sides are smeared with several layers of tar, and the free space between its walls and the ground is covered with fine gravel and coarse sand.

A do-it-yourself brick sauna stove is a rather complicated structure, therefore, if you do not have the skills of laying stoves, then you should entrust such work to an experienced stove-maker. In the same case, when your knowledge is quite enough for laying this structure, you will need to start laying the walls of the furnace. In this case, you should be guided by a pre-prepared scheme that can be found on the Internet.

When laying out the masonry in the massif of the wall, the doors for the heater and the firebox are mounted. Through them, the stove will be loaded with fuel, and it will be possible to supply water to the heater. Next, a grate is installed above the furnace compartment, having gaps of 5 mm on each side, taking into account thermal expansion. A pre-prepared tank for storing water is also installed above the heater, it can be purchased ready-made, or you can weld it yourself from thick-walled metal.

In any case, the masonry must be started from the door in order to strengthen it well in the wall array. While working, constantly check the evenness of the masonry using a level and plumb line. The fact is that in order to create a solid structure, the masonry must be perfectly even, and the vertical seam between the bricks must be overlapped by the bricks of the next row.

There are several elements of stone ovens that must be completed. So this is a chamber for incandescent stones, a chimney, as well as a compartment for storing firewood or a firebox. Each of the elements of the furnace has its own nuances in the calculation. So, for example, a gap is necessarily left between the boiler and the walls of the furnace for the rapid passage of hot gases and heating of water. Also, a gap of thirteen centimeters should be between the roof sheathing and the pipe in order to avoid a fire.

Special attention it will be necessary to pay attention to the arrangement of the chimney, since in the event that it is arranged incorrectly, carbon monoxide may remain in the bathhouse. As a result, bathers can get poisoned or even die while taking bath procedures.

The layout of the furnace is completed with finishing work. To do this, you can plaster it, or you can leave the wall as it is, in its natural form, simply by covering the brick with heat-resistant varnish. As a result, you will get an original interior design for your steam room.