Today, household appliances function in every home. To ensure that televisions, refrigerators, water heaters, hobs, hoods and ovens, as well as dishwashers or washing machines worked smoothly and served for many years, it is better to entrust the connection of household appliances to the professionals of the company “Your Home Master”.

Many stores, along with quality goods from leading manufacturers, also offer the installation of household appliances. The craftsmen bring the products, mount them on a solid, flat surface to avoid swinging and vibrations during operation, connect the devices to the power supply, and, if necessary, to the water supply and sewerage, perform all the necessary settings, and carry out a test run.

Installation of built-in household appliances.

If we are talking about connecting built-in household appliances in the kitchen, then it implies the correct location and clear fixation of the devices in the furniture so that they look like a single whole and do not interfere with the normal functioning of each other. At the same time, safety regulations must be observed so that the operation of new household appliances does not lead to accidental ignition of the wooden surfaces of the cabinets and the occurrence of fires.

If you have purchased household appliances, but did not use the services of the store's masters for their installation, then you can contact us.

About our services

We offer the connection of household appliances in Moscow, at a high professional level. Moreover, our qualified craftsmen boldly undertake the installation of household appliances of domestic and foreign manufacturers.

Using the offers of the company "Your Home Master", you can count on competent, fast and inexpensive installation and connection of household appliances in the kitchen or other residential areas.

In addition, you can get free consultations and helpful tips operation and maintenance of equipment so that it lasts as long as possible.

Appliances may not function properly due to high levels of humidity or high temperatures near the appliances. Therefore, experts prefer to locate electrical equipment away from sources of water and open fire.

Our company issues a document certifying that installation work has been carried out by specialists. So you can be sure that all the rules for connecting electrical appliances are observed, and at the same time household appliances will retain the benefits of free warranty repairs.

In addition to installing built-in household appliances, YOU can also order from us.

In order for built-in kitchen appliances to serve for a long time and without fail, and for the hostess not to have to make many unnecessary transitions from one gadget to another, it must be installed in accordance with certain rules. Also, during installation, you need to take into account the power of electrical appliances and do not forget about safe operation.

How to properly arrange furniture?

Depending on the geometric dimensions of the room, designers recommend two ways to place furniture, and as a result, household appliances built into it:

1. Angular.
2. Linear.

Corner placement implies the arrangement of kitchen interior items in the form of the letter "G". This method is suitable for rooms whose area has the shape of a square or close to it. The meaning of this arrangement boils down to the fact that the main kitchen elements are placed at the vertices of an imaginary triangle:

• refrigerator;
• hob;
• dishwasher sink.

In this case, built-in appliances are placed along adjacent walls, creating an ergonomic work area. As a result, the hostess will be relieved of the need to perform unnecessary actions and many movements.

With linear placement, all kitchen furniture with built-in household appliances is placed along one of the longest walls, and on the contrary, a dining area is equipped. The principle of placing gadgets is the same as in the previous case: the less unnecessary movements and movements, the better.

It is allowed to place one above the other the following electrical appliances:

• coffee maker;
• double boiler;
• oven;
• microwave.

How to correctly connect to the power supply?

The main difference between the operation of built-in equipment and portable equipment is that its place is determined once and for the entire subsequent service life. This means that there is no need to periodically pull the plug out of the socket. Thus, sockets available within reach of kitchen appliances can be used for their intended purpose.

Another thing is when there are not enough outlets or the cross section of the power wire does not match the power of the equipment connected to the outlet. In this case, you will have to move and add sockets, as well as connect them to the electrical network with an appropriate conductor.

When installing wiring, ensure that the following conditions are met:

• sockets must have a grounding contact;
• sockets must ensure the passage of a current of at least 15A;
• electrical conductors must be double insulated;
• the wiring must be hidden, that is, all its elements must be recessed into the wall.

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Installation of built-in appliances in the kitchen

Everything should be beautiful, the appliances should be installed correctly so that they don’t break down longer and be comfortable, so that you don’t have to “wind” extra kilometers running from the refrigerator to the stove and from the sink to the table.

It is allowed to mount one appliance above another, for example, such as a microwave, oven, steamer or coffee maker.

• Before installing the kitchen, it is necessary to electrically install the kitchen sockets:

The use of built-in appliances differs from the use of portable ones in that the place of use of the "embedded" is determined and it is unchanged. Therefore, there is no point in constantly pulling the plug from the socket, and there is no need to move sockets anywhere if they are already nearby.

Another thing is when the cable section, which was originally laid down, does not allow you to connect more power.

Sockets must be with a grounding contact, which are rated for a current of at least 15A and intended for hidden electrical wiring, that is, recessed into the wall (preferably).
An exception can be made for small household appliances or for electric ignition of a gas stove.

All wires that will be placed in the kitchen must be double insulated, as the walls in the room can get wet and heat up.

• Calculation of the cable (wire) section of the kitchen sockets:

At the request of the PUE, clause 7.1.34, electrical wiring in residential premises should only be copper.

The thickness of the wire can vary both downwards and upwards, depending on the power of household appliances.

• Choice of kitchen layout:

Try using the "rule of the triangle".

Its essence is simple - the main elements of the working area in the kitchen, such as a refrigerator, stove and sink, should be located at the vertices of an imaginary triangle.

Then you do not have to spend extra energy and actions on moving between these main working segments. Ideally, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthis triangle is 4-8 square meters. m.

Corner (L-shaped) kitchen - versatility, practicality and ergonomics:

One of the most advantageous options for using this type of layout would be a medium-sized square (or close to square) kitchen.

If you follow the "rule of the triangle", then the angular layout of the kitchen layout most closely follows it - household appliances and storage systems are located along adjacent walls, forming an ergonomic work area.

Linear (in one row) - for narrow long rooms:

Furniture and appliances completely occupy one wall, and the second remains free for the location of the dining area.

When installing an additional "island", you zone the room into a working and dining area.

In a modern apartment, the kitchen is one of the main consumers of electricity. The power of pantographs connected to the electrical wiring in the kitchen can sometimes reach more than half of the entire load of the apartment.

Based on this, the electrical wiring in the kitchen must be carried out independent group, and even better in several groups.

Power of electrical appliances in the kitchen

Before work, you will have to draw up a small project or diagram. To do this, the power of all electrical appliances that will be in the kitchen is initially calculated.

Here is a sample list of them:

• lighting - 150-200 watts

• Microwave - 2000 Watts

• Refrigerator - 100 watts

• Dishwasher - 1000-2000 watts

• Kettle electric - 2000 watts

• Oven - 2000 Watts

• Water heater - 2000 watts

• Cooktop - 3500-7500 Watts

Of course, all appliances will not turn on at the same time. But you have to calculate the total power. Most often it is in the range of 10-15 watts.

The maximum power, when several pantographs are switched on at the same time, in an ordinary apartment, as a rule, does not exceed 7 kW.

If you have this power higher than 7kW, then here you already need to think about inputting 380V and distribute the load by phases.

Which cable to choose for the kitchen

Next, you need to calculate the cross section of the common supply wire of the electrical panel and the outgoing wiring to each pantograph. Follow the rules here:

• with a load of devices up to 3.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*2.5mm2

• with a load of devices up to 5.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3 * 4mm2

• with a total load of all devices up to 10 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*6mm2

• with a total load of all devices up to 15 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*10mm2

Why the VVGnG-Ls brand should be, is detailed in the article below:

Even if you have a house with an old grounding system (without a third protective conductor), still do the wiring with a 3-wire cable. This will save you from additional costs for reconstruction and replacement of wires in the future.

In extreme cases, the third wire will be reserved for zero or phase, in case of a possible break or other damage.

Layout of outlets in the kitchen

After choosing the wiring, you need to decide on the sockets.

Always plan the placement of outlets after the kitchen design has been approved, otherwise there may be problems. For example, the outlets of the work area can easily be in the wrong place, and eventually hide behind the refrigerator.

To ensure that your sockets and switches are in place, take a plan for arranging kitchen furniture.

After that, mark on it all the necessary sockets. You can even do it by hand.

On this plan, it is not yet necessary to clearly tie the installation sites and calculate the dimensions and distances. Just count the number and purpose of each of the outlets.

Number of outlets

How many outlets are required in the kitchen?

Under the category of stationary equipment fall - refrigerator, extractor hood, hob and oven, microwave, dishwasher, garbage disposal.

In addition, it does not hurt to mount one outlet immediately under or near the switch at the entrance to the room.

The zone with switches usually remains uncluttered, and a free point where you can take voltage (for example, for a vacuum cleaner) is never superfluous.

Now mark the points on the apron for connecting non-stationary devices. Lay at least two pieces for each part (right and left) of the kitchen.

This will include an electric kettle, blender, mixer, etc.

Distances and placements

When you have decided on the quantity, it's time to move on to calculating the required dimensions and indents. To do this, draw something like a sweep of the walls where the furniture will stand.

Here you will already need the exact dimensions of the kitchen - the length, height of the room. Gradually, in the form of rectangles, draw the equipment and all the cabinets.

If the kitchen is corner, do the same with the adjacent wall.

Refrigerator

For refrigerators, manufacturers recommend placing the socket group under the appliance itself, that is, in the bottom row so that the connection is not visible.

It is impossible to say unequivocally with 100% certainty at what height the bottom row of sockets should be made.

This is explained by the fact that if you set it higher, then the embedded appliances will rest against the plugs.

If you intend to turn off the plug quite often, then the bottom connection for the refrigerator is not always convenient. In this case, you can place the whole thing at the height of the working area.

Sockets in the work area and above the countertop

The height of the tabletop is usually 85cm, maximum 90cm. Then there is a wall with a height of 550-600mm and then cabinets.

Place outlets in this area 105cm from the floor.

In this case, they will not be in the middle of the wall, and it will be convenient to cover them with the same microwave.

The minimum distance from the countertop must be at least 5 cm so that the kitchen plinth does not touch them. Locations - one set in any corner, plus between the hob and sink.

As mentioned above, at least two pieces. If you don't like the look of outlets above your kitchen backsplash, consider a pull-out unit from the countertop.

Be sure to consider whether there will be built-in appliances in the upper cabinets. For example, a microwave.

Under it, you will also have to make a separate outlet. Pull the cords from above to the countertop area not according to Feng Shui.

Hood

Also at the top, at a height of 1.9m-2.0m, there is a socket under the hood. However, a lot depends on the brand. If this is a cheap option, then you can get by with the output of the cable and then connect it right inside the equipment.

But if this is an expensive model, then it comes with its own fork. Cutting off the factory plug will void the warranty.

Cooker and oven

In the presence of a powerful hob, either a cable output is made, followed by a connection directly under the panel's terminal blocks, or a special power outlet is installed.

Ovens, unlike cooking ovens, come with ordinary forks, so there is no need to be smart here. Plug them into simple sockets.

When there are cabinets with hinged doors to the left or right of the hob and oven, it is very convenient to place sockets right inside them. Step back 15-20cm from the edge and mount.

If this is not possible, then you will have to connect from the lower group.

In the case of a separate installation of the oven from the hob, for example, at chest height, make a socket for it in the lower cabinet at a height of up to 750 mm.

Dishwasher

According to SP 31-110 2003 p.14.29, it is forbidden to make any sockets under and above sinks or sinks. Therefore, always retreat a few centimeters when installing the socket group near this plumbing. This applies to both the lower placement and the working area at the top.

It is also forbidden to place sockets behind the dishwasher and washing machine.

Near the dining table (if it is near the wall, and not in the center of the kitchen), it is advisable to plan one outlet.

On big holidays, with an influx of guests and relatives in the apartment, you will definitely need to connect something on the table - a mixer, a juicer, a food processor, etc.

And on simple days, you can easily attach a laptop there when working in the kitchen.

• for a group of sockets into which devices up to 3.5 kW are connected, a 16A automatic machine is mounted

• for devices up to 5.5 kW automatic 25A. Moreover, it is better to extend a separate group to this current collector

You can also navigate according to the following table for choosing machines and cables when connecting the hob:

• since the kitchen is a wet room, plus a huge number of objects with a metal case, it is mandatory to install an introductory RCD for a current of 30mA in the shield in front of all machines

• a separate socket is placed on each current collector

This is not only an additional load on the wiring, but also a potential short circuit (due to spilled tea or other liquid).

Common mistakes

1 Installation of wiring and sockets before approval and approval of the design project of kitchen furniture.

The problems that you will definitely encounter in this case are hidden sockets behind cabinets, refrigerators, etc. It is very likely that you will even have to use carriers, since factory cords with a plug will simply not reach the connection points.

2 Refrigerator connection.

The instructions for refrigerators usually indicate a ban on their connection through extension cords. At the same time, the length of the cord is not so big, only 1m.

Therefore, if you know what brand of refrigerator you will have, find a passport on the Internet and see which side the power cord comes out of. Add the width of the refrigerator here and plan the connection point accordingly to get rid of carrying.

And in some models, the connection of the freezer can go with a separate independent cord, or you can buy it in the future freezer. Initially, you will make only one outlet for the equipment, but in the end you will need two. So it is better to make this block double.

3 Connecting sockets to "wet" appliances through a simple machine.

Appliances such as a dishwasher, washing machine (if built into the kitchen), instantaneous water heater, etc. must be connected through an RCD or differential automatic.

No modular machines, let alone "plugs", will ever save you from current leaks.

Even if you do not have a grounding conductor, the RCD will still help and protect in this case.

4 The most common mistake is the installation of ordinary sockets (such as Schuko) for a dishwasher under the sink or near the faucet.

This location is prohibited by the rules. Recede from the faucet 500mm (same applies to gas pipes on stoves or hobs) and only then boldly mount the electrical installation product.

If the electricians have already wired it there and there is no way to redo it, or you got an apartment with such a repair, then make sure that the sockets under the sink are waterproof (like in the bathroom).

It is also forbidden to mount wiring accessories in the immediate vicinity of the stoves.

5 When mounting the bottom outlet group at a distance of 10 cm from the floor, be extremely careful!

In the area up to 25 cm from the floor, plumbers usually install pipes for sinks, washing machines, dishwashers.

Not knowing the exact route, do not rush to ditch the walls, otherwise for you and your neighbors it may turn into a flood and unplanned repairs.

Summing up, I would like to say that the electrical wiring in the kitchen should be done by professionals. Using the tips in this article, you can easily control the entire process and make your competent comments during installation work.

According to statistics, the kitchen is the room with the highest energy consumption. It contains a third of household electrical appliances: a washing machine, a dishwasher, an electric oven, a microwave oven and much more. Plus, with the advent of new products, small energy-consuming appliances are added: a mixer, a bread machine, a toaster. With each purchase of a new electrical appliance, the load on the wiring increases. If you think that replacing old outlets will improve the situation, then it is not. One day, the wiring that does not match the load may not withstand the power consumed, and the electrical wiring in the kitchen will burn out. Therefore, a major overhaul should begin with the replacement of wiring, which can be done by hand.

Before you start replacing the old wiring, you need to determine the type of electricity supplied to the kitchen. Usually in old apartments with a gas stove, a single-phase network is laid. This wiring option is not very good for high power consumption, since the entire load falls on one wire. A more successful wiring is a three-phase connection, connected to the kitchen with an electric stove installed. In such a system, the load is distributed over three wires, creating an additional headroom.

At the next stage, we calculate the total power of all electrical appliances planned for installation in the kitchen. This is easy to do by reading the power consumption of each electrical appliance in the instructions. The standard energy consumption of all appliances in a modern kitchen is between 9 and 15 kW. Although it is unlikely that all electrical appliances will work at the same time, it is better to do the wiring with a power reserve.

In this approximate list of appliances, the total power of kitchen appliances reaches 14 kW

We select the wire

Having calculated the power of future wiring, we proceed to the choice of wire. For internal wiring, aluminum or copper wires in dielectric insulation are used:

• Aluminum wire is most common for internal wiring. This is due to its low cost and low weight. This is where the merits end. The high electrical resistance of aluminum, according to the rules of electrical operation, requires the use of wires with a large cross section. Thick wiring will create difficulties during installation, spoiling appearance walls. Aluminum resistance causes heating of the wiring, which is accompanied by loosening of the contacts. The brittleness of aluminum, which increases from overheating, significantly reduces the life of the wire;
• The disadvantage of copper wire is only its high cost. For indoor use, copper wiring is much safer than aluminum wiring. This is due to the lower electrical resistance of copper, which reduces the likelihood of heating the entire wiring. Copper wire is resistant to multiple bending, has a long service life and does not reduce current conductivity after oxidation.

Use the table below to select the appropriate cable for the job:

Building a wiring diagram

Before you do the wiring with your own hands, you need to calculate its exact scheme. A number of rules will help in the work:

• the simplest wiring diagram involves the installation of one junction box. This option is not suitable for a kitchen with a large number of energy-consuming appliances;
• the wiring should include several junction boxes, from which various devices are powered;
• correct wiring requires the creation of separate branches: for connecting sockets, lighting fixtures, powerful household appliances;
• on each branch, an RCD is installed for a protective shutdown;
• if, nevertheless, a circuit with one junction box is calculated, it is necessary to use only a three-core wire with a cross section of at least 4 sq. mm. The wire is laid in a plastic pipe.

An example of a wiring diagram for electrical wiring in the kitchen

The safety of household appliances is ensured by grounding, during installation of which it is prohibited:

• connect the ground to the neutral wire;
• ground zero and ground conductors of different lines;
• make grounding from a separate wire.

Electrical panel installation

To increase safety and convenient wiring management, instead of a traditional distribution box, you can install an electrical panel:

1. in the input shield we mount an RCD with a power corresponding to the total load current. For a single-phase network, an RCD of 50 A is suitable.
2. a set of parallel sockets is allowed no more than 5 pieces. With an NG 3x2.5 cable, we connect sockets to separate machines with a capacity of 25 A.
3. we connect the wires from the lighting devices in parallel with the connection to the machine for 6 A. For the convenience of controlling the system, the lines of local and general lighting can be connected to different RCDs.

Installation of switches and sockets in the kitchen

When drawing up the layout of sockets and switches, it is necessary to take into account the installation locations of furniture and electrical appliances. A number of rules will help create convenience and safety in the kitchen:

• when installing sockets, give preference to models designed for 16A with ceramic inserts;
• switches can be used designed for operation with a smaller load. Here you need to pay attention to the appearance. Operating keys quickly become dirty from frequent use and it is easier to remove dirt from a smooth surface during cleaning;
• in a modern apartment, the installation of sockets from the floor is performed at a height of 40 cm. An exception may be sockets installed above the countertop for convenient connection of household appliances;
• switches are mounted at a height of about 1 m from the floor in places that are free to access. It is most convenient to place the switch at a distance of 15 cm from the jamb front door or on the wall at the entrance to the kitchen. To turn on additional lighting, you need to make separate switches.

Chasing for wall wiring

Compiling detailed diagram electrical wiring, you can start chasing the walls, since hidden wiring will not spoil the aesthetic appearance of the room. This operation is easy to do with your own hands using a wall chaser or puncher. Armed with the tool, you can get to work:

1. Trying to create a minimum length of strobes, we apply markings on the wall. The angles of rotation of the strobe must be made straight. This will make it easier to predict the placement of wiring under the plaster if you have to drill holes in the wall.
2. According to the drawn markings, we punch grooves and recesses for mounting socket boxes.

Chasing the wall in the kitchen

Wire laying

Given the following tips, installing wires with your own hands will not be difficult:

1. every 40 cm in the groove we drill holes with a diameter of 6 mm.
2. we tighten the wire into a plastic corrugated pipe and lay it along the grooves.
3. we fix the pipe to the wall with special plastic dowel-brackets, inserting them into the drilled holes.
4. having completed the installation of the wire, we call the entire system with a probe, checking for the absence of a break, we close all the grooves with plaster.

Corrugated wire laid in a strobe

Installation of sockets and switches

The final work is the installation in the prepared sockets of sockets and switches:

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in the kitchen, subject to all recommendations and correct calculations, will reliably last for many years. The power reserve will allow you to add new electrical appliances in the future without fear of overheating and shorting the wires.

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