Do you need vertical crossbars on the door - "Mister Lock. Replacing the lock on the entrance metal door: procedure and recommendations Backdraft bolt lock

Situations when keys are lost, the mechanism does not work correctly, and the like are quite common. Therefore, many are faced with the need to replace the lock on a metal front door. Knowing the design features of the locking device and the specifics of its installation, everything can be done independently without wasting time looking for a professional.

Where to start

Going straight to the store, as they say now, is counterproductive. First of all, you need to figure out what is really necessary - to change the lock in the iron door or its larva. In the latter case, everything will come down to small costs, both in terms of money and time.

Lever locks or cylinder locks are mainly installed in steel doors. The keys to the first represent a rod, at the end of which there is a plate with cutouts. Here you will have to think about how to replace the lock in the metal door, since the usual lock insert is missing in it.

If the model is cylindrical, then in most cases it is enough to install a new larva. Locking devices of this type are supplied with a flat key with teeth along the entire length of the working part. This is an easier repair option.

Procedure

Cylinder mechanism

As already noted, there is no need to remove this lock from the door. Only a few simple manipulations are performed:

Dismantling the armor plate (not always installed).
Turning the key until it stops (the tongue must be completely recessed).
Removing the protective strip (attached to the end of the door leaf).
Unscrewing the locking screw.
Removing the larva. If it does not pull out, turn it slightly with a wrench so that the tongue aligns with the hole in the hole.
After installing a new larva, all actions are performed in reverse order.

Lever mechanism

Here we are already talking not about partial repair of constipation, but about its complete replacement. There are options though. If the product is imported, then it is quite possible to change the core with re-coding of the levers (internal pins ensuring the level of secrecy). Some manufacturers supply the market with spare parts with a set of keys "for them".

The algorithm of actions is the same, but there are some differences:

the locking mechanism will have to be removed completely. The order of its disassembly is indicated in the attached instructions;
in order to remove the lock, you must first dismantle the handles.

Crossbar mechanisms

In this case, the knowledge of how to change the lock in a metal door of a simpler design is clearly not enough. There are several stops, depending on the model, and they can come out of the canvas in different places - both from the side and below, above. It is their presence that significantly complicates the work; if possible, it is better to remove the sash.

The canvas is laid on the floor.
It is partially disassembled to provide access to the internal mechanisms. By the way, it is not always possible to do this on your own in Chinese doors, and therefore you will have to contact a specialist.
The traction of the crossbars is weakened.
They are disconnected from the lock device.

Attention! Beams must be handled with extreme care. The slightest deformation (bending) of the rod will lead to the fact that it will not stop the door at its "critical" point due to the mismatch of the socket with the end part of the stop.

Replacing the lock on the entrance metal door is not particularly difficult, if you are careful and careful. The latter implies the need to comply with a number of rules:

it is advisable to write down the procedure; what was then dismantled (twisted). It so happens that for some reason a break is made in the repair. And hoping for a memory, especially when faced with a replacement lock for the first time, is not the best solution;
all the removed parts are not thrown into one pile, but laid out on the floor (on a cloth) in a certain sequence, from left to right. This ensures that after repair there will be no "extra" spare parts (and this often happens).

Such foresight will allow the installation of a new (or repaired) lock quickly and efficiently.

Initially focusing on the lever lock as the most complex one, it is better to buy one of the imported products. Their repair is somewhat easier, since almost all the parts necessary for replacement can be purchased at retail. In addition, there is the possibility of "reconfiguring" the levers. But the majority of domestic samples cannot be recoding.
To less often face the problem of how to change the door lock, it must be lubricated periodically. Moreover, it is not necessary to dismantle and disassemble the mechanism. A syringe is enough, the needle of which freely enters the well. After injecting machine oil, it is only required to turn the key to the sides several times, to the limit.

Anyone who has chosen a metal door has come across such concepts as crabs, rods, deviators - additional locking devices that are triggered when the key is turned in the lock. Are all these elements necessary or not?

Additional fixation of the canvas in the box is provided by 4 types of devices.

Fixed protrusions that are located on the side of the hinge vertical. When the door is closed, these protrusions, or labyrinth, enter the corresponding groove in the box. Anti-removable elements are designed to protect against the removal of the door leaf after cutting the hinges. We will not dwell on these elements in detail.

Traction

If, when you turn the key in the lock from above and from the bottom of the canvas, one additional locking bolt comes out, these are the rods. They are connected to the locks through special outputs. If there are no such outputs in the lock, then it is impossible to connect traction.

Additional bolts that extend horizontally from the door leaf when closing the locks. They are connected to the locks through the same rods, are installed mainly in the corners along the castle vertical in order to protect themselves from forceful burglary. Deviators come in different shapes and types: from classic round in cross-section to swivel hooks.

All the same rods that are connected to the locks, but they come out not only vertically, but also horizontally, locking from the side of the loop vertical. Previously, crabs were installed mainly on Israeli doors. Nowadays, it is almost impossible to meet crabs on a modern metal door.

Advantages and features of mobile systems

The main purpose of the additional locking is to protect the door from burglary with lever tools. If they try to squeeze the door with a crowbar or crowbar, then they begin to work precisely in the corners along the castle vertical, since the crossbars of the locks are located in the center of the canvas. And if a thrust or deviator is installed in the corner, then the rogue's work becomes much more complicated.

In general, additional locking is very useful, as it increases the security properties of the door, but cannot be considered as the main security detail.

If you're on a tight budget to buy a door, it's best to pay attention to the basic locking system. Perhaps it is worth improving it. There is no sense in an additional lock installed on doors with unreliable locks.

The locking system must match the door design you choose. Simple locking in different directions does not make a super-protective product out of an ordinary door. For some door manufacturers, the models are equipped with vertical locking - rods by default. But why would this additional equipment be installed just like that? Let's reveal a secret. For some doors, this is just a necessity, since the rigidity of the door leaf is provided by too few profile elements - the so-called stiffening ribs. And in order to make the door more resistant to power types of opening, some manufacturers by default complete their locking system with additional crossbars.

On domestically produced doors, the corner of the leaf is reinforced by default with an additional horizontal stiffener, which takes the load upon itself when trying to forcefully break. Therefore, you do not need to spend money on connecting a vertical drive. The existing metal structure will resist spinning with dignity.

For the system of additional locking points to work, the holes for the deadbolt of this system must be made with a sufficiently high accuracy. If you have cut a hole of 30 mm under the crossbar with a diameter of 16 mm, then the vertical drive will not work when breaking in. For the same reason, it is not recommended to install vertical drive locks with rods in the garage. During the period of seasonal ground movements, deformation of the opening will occur, due to which the holes for the crossbar will need to be bored in one direction or the other. As a result, after 1.5-2 years, a hole is cut out in the door frame for a vertical drive 2-2.5 times the diameter of the rod. This is irrational, since the load on the locking system increases, and in fact, when trying to break in, the rods simply will not work as they should.

Disadvantages and possible problems

Connecting an additional locking up, down or sideways does not in any way increase the protection of the door against intelligent types of opening. If the locks are opened cleanly, that is, opening with a native key will be imitated, then all additional locking, whether it be rods or deviators, will also go inside the door leaf. If you have a Chinese metal door installed, then you will surely encounter vertical locking problems. Pulls and deviators on Chinese doors behave disgustingly due to the poor quality of the metal product in general.

There are 2 main scenarios for the behavior of deviators in Chinese metal doors. First, they simply detach from the lock and block the canvas. After opening the lock with his own key, the fallen off rod blocked the canvas. This situation is very problematic even for a professional. He has to drill a few holes and fish out, or, as they say, fish traction. It's long and sometimes unpredictable. The second scenario is the thickening of the lubricant, which happens all the time. That is, the locks to which the deviators are connected, over time, work tighter and tighter. Eventually, keys or bots break. If the deviators are turned off, the locks will work longer. All this is not due to the presence of additional locking systems, but due to the poor quality of door materials.

However, even perfectly connected deviators and rods create additional stress on the secrecy mechanism. If two locks are placed in ideal conditions, to connect traction to one, and not to the other, then the first will exhaust its resource faster. It should be noted that if the lock is of high quality and the vertical drive is connected well, without distortions, then such a system can work for 10 or more years.

Another problem of doors with rods and deviators is their strumming. In the doors of some manufacturers, the rods are located without guides and framing tubes. Because of this, a loud clicking sound will be heard when opening and closing.

It is also important to increase the final cost of the door with an additional locking system.

Output

Additional door locking mechanisms are a necessary and useful thing. They increase the security properties of the door, protecting it from forceful opening methods. But it is important that the vertical or horizontal locking is connected correctly. The weight of the rods should not exceed the maximum allowable for a particular lock model. This is usually 250-400 grams. The rods should be connected to the locks with self-locking nuts or with the help of any other fasteners that will not unwind from vibration in the future. There should be no distortion to avoid additional stress on the lock during operation. The holes for the crossbars and rods in the door frame should be slightly larger in diameter (by 2-3 mm). Locks with an additional vertical or horizontal drive connected must continue to work in the same way as without it, that is, soft and clear.

Homemade garage locks have a simple design and are opened with a special key. They are installed from inside the garage, which makes the devices invisible.

Such locks are made according to individual sketches of the garage owner, for which it is quite difficult to pick up a master key, which can be done for standard models of locks purchased in stores or in the markets. What are homemade garage locks is discussed in this article.

Types and features of homemade garage locks

The garage is designed to protect the vehicle from the harmful effects of external factors and in order to protect it from theft. Not a single garage can give a complete guarantee of the safety of a car, but to a large extent its safety depends on the strength and reliability of the lock for the garage door.

Homemade garage locks, like most devices, can be of several types.

They can be:

Hinged.
Mortise
Rack (see).
Overhead.
Mixed devices.

One of the main criteria distinguishing these devices is the method of their manufacture.

They can be:

Factory products.
Homemade locks for the garage.

Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Often the choice of a product is determined by its price. If you want to purchase a reliable and high-quality factory device, you will need to pay quite a lot of money.

This is due to the fact that the lock will not be a simple factory stamping, but a mechanism assembled by a professional by hand. There are a number of points that distinguish factory products from handicraft homemade products.

The main ones are: low quality and lack of reliability of many factory structures. In any case, you will have to pay a fairly large amount for good devices.

When making a lock, from the desire to save money, you can lose in its quality, which can affect the safety of the car.

Tip: The installation of the structure should be approached very responsibly. You need to remember the basic rule: the lock that is not visible is better protected.

The principle of operation of locks depending on their type

Homemade garage hinged lock.

This is the most common type of product. The entire mechanism of such a device is located in a suspended case.

Locking is done using an arc or a pin that is inserted inward. For the structure to work, on the lockable sections, the installation of special lugs is needed, where the arc is inserted, with the help of which the locking occurs.

This type of technical device has one negative quality, which casts doubt on its positive properties - it can be opened relatively easily. Such locks are hung outside, so attackers have access to it, and with the help of a master key, it can be opened or simply knocked down.

Tip: A lock of this type should only be used as an additional security measure when the use of several locking devices is combined.

Homemade rack and pinion garage lock.

This is a fairly popular option for making locks. It is installed from the inside and the locking process is carried out by several sliding rods.

The lock is opened with a special individual key, which is inserted into the well and pulls the valves when turning. This type of device design is somewhat more reliable, but it can be hacked by sawing the locking elements or picking up a key.

Mortise lock.

It is quite difficult to install, and the reliability of the device is relatively low. This design can only be used as an additional measure of protection.

Locks for other types of garages are easier to make on your own.

These include:

Homemade garage lock - spinner, its general view is shown in the photo.

This is the name of a lockable deadbolt system. The version of the lock is quite simple in design; it can be easily made by yourself.

Such a device works according to the following principle:

from the inside on two leaves of garage doors, special eyelets are mounted, which can be metal or made of wooden beams;
in the center of the gate, mounted on a through bolt of a rotating bolt, set in motion by turning around the center;
the ends of the turntable should fall into the lugs, and thus securely lock the doors from the inside.

In this case, there are no elements of the castle outside. This is the most reliable garage lock, breaking the gate becomes almost impossible.

Espagnolette.

This is the simplest, fairly reliable and effective home-made option for locking garage doors, which allows it to be used in most cases. Espagnolette - a metal pin that moves inside the lugs.

It is usually mounted on the inside of garage doors. Such a device works according to the valve principle.

Locks for swing gates.

This locking device is a type of latch, with the difference that the latch, most often, moves in a horizontal direction and is used with a single-leaf gate design. For swing gates, locks consist of metal rods that move vertically inside special lugs installed on the gates.

To carry out the locking, a pair of holes about half a meter deep are made in the ground under the rods.

Tip: To increase the strength and reliability of the structure, install metal pipes of a suitable diameter into these holes, which are then concreted.

Locks of this type have the main disadvantage - they are closed from the inside, which requires the installation of an additional door. They can be used if the garage is built into the building of the house or in the yard of the estate.

How to make a simple garage lock

Instructions for making a simple patch lock with a latch, which is set in motion with a special individual homemade key, consists of the following:

Making the base of the castle. It is a metal plate about three millimeters thick and 10 millimeters in diameter.
Two overlays are cut from the same metal:

width - 22 mm;
length - 120 millimeters.

The linings are bent in a vice according to sketches.
A gate valve is being manufactured.
A guide tube with an outer diameter of about 10 millimeters for the lock key is being prepared. Its length depends on the thickness of the gate. One end of the tube is cut at a 60 degree angle as shown in Figure 4.
The assembly of the structure begins with welding the pads to the edges of the base

Tip: If parts are deformed after welding, they must be straightened. Small distortions will be eliminated when installing the lock on the gate.

Four holes are drilled in the corners of the plate to fix the lock to the door.
The guide tube is inserted into the hole of the plate with a diameter of 10 millimeters, the bevel - to the pads.
The tube is carefully welded to the base, while maintaining mutual perpendicularity.
The latch is inserted into the lining, in the middle between them.
Two screws M4 in diameter, about eight millimeters long, are screwed into the valve. These screws are the stop of the valve travel, it is advisable to put spring washers under their heads.

The key is selected from a circle with a diameter of 8 millimeters, its length is 150 millimeters.

One end of it, about 25 millimeters long, is bent at an angle of 90 degrees.

On the other hand, a cut is formed at an angle of 60 degrees.
A hole is drilled in the cutting area.
A beard is made according to Figure 7.
The key is assembled according to Figure 8.

The secrecy of the lock is ensured by drilling turnkey holes in the latch below or above, the interval may be one millimeter, which will provide the lock with a large number of "secrecy" options. For these purposes, you can change the size 12 according to Figure 5 within acceptable limits.

How to make a garage lock with your own hands is shown in more detail in the video. A high-quality garage lock is a guarantee of car safety.

The lock grip can be quite difficult for a beginner athlete who is just starting to use it. This is especially true for athletes with small palms and in particular those with full fingers. And the only way you can get used to it is to constantly use it. The main reason that all weightlifters in the world use the lock grip is that when you accelerate the barbell when doing a snatch or pulling on the chest, then you can no longer properly hold it without this lock.

Even if you have small palms and you think that you will never be able to keep the bar "locked", remember that even men in the weight category up to 56 kg use it, performing a snatch and a take on the chest with the same bar of 28 mm which almost all of us use. Halil Mutlu (three-time Olympic champion in weightlifting) performed a weight of 138 kg with a body weight of 56 kg, using a "lock" grip. And already if a person with such small hands is able to hold such a weight while performing a snatch, then you can also cope with it.

Firstly, when you take the starting position to perform a snatch or take the barbell to your chest, press the gap between your thumb and forefinger into the barbell as much as possible, and then grab it first with your thumb, and then with all the other fingers of your palm. This will allow you to stretch your thumb even more.

Also, make sure you are using this grip correctly. Don't just pinch your thumb between the barbell and your other fingers: first wrap your thumb around the barbell, then grab your thumb with the other two and pull it forward a little more around the bar.

Most people need to do a little bit of stretching before they feel they can perform this grip completely safely. The easiest way to do this is to simply use a lock-on grip every time you lift the bar. Your thumbs will get the right (slight) stretch, your arms will get used to this position, and in general you will feel more comfortable using this grip.

You can also stretch using what I call the "girl's blow" (I don't want to offend anyone - none of my students would ever hit this way). Clench your fingers into a fist with your thumb inside, grasp it tightly with the rest of your fingers and arch your wrist towards the elbow - in the opposite direction from the thumb. You should feel a stretch around the base of your thumb and a little in your wrist. You can also flex your wrist in this position for extra and slightly different stretch.

Alternatively, you can try to do heavy weights using the lock grip. This will help you get a good stretch of the thumbs and a stronger grip. In addition, the chance that the bar will begin to slip is much lower than with a snatch or a take on the chest. But this is painful enough and most people will feel like their thumbs are breaking in a vice.

Finally, you can wrap the tape around your thumbs. Make sure you are using a soft patch so that your joints can move freely. Sometimes the use of a patch allows you to get more friction with the barbell, which means more security.