How to change the brake pads of a car. Front brake pad replacement - when should it be done? Getting down to the process

5 February 2017

The efficiency of the braking system largely depends on the technical condition of the pads - the elements pressed against the disc or wheel drum when you press the pedal. They are equipped with overlays that gradually wear out and at some point become unusable. Real term The "life" of parts can be different and depends on many factors. Therefore, every motorist should monitor the wheel brakes and clearly determine when to change the pads. To control the wear of the pads, it is not necessary to go to a service station, you can check it yourself.

The brake pad is a thick metal base with a lining made of friction material attached to it. Its components are rubber, graphite and mineral fibers, bonded with technological resins. How often to change these parts important for safe driving is indicated in the car operating instructions. Typically, car manufacturers recommend observing the following intervals between replacements:

  • on cars of post-Soviet countries, it is envisaged to install new parts after 10-15 thousand kilometers;
  • on foreign cars, whose spare parts are traditionally of better quality, the interval is from 15 to 25 thousand km;
  • a separate category - powerful sports cars, where they are replaced every 5-10 thousand km.

Practice shows that the front brake pads are under greater stress than the rear ones, which is why they wear out faster.

Russian motorists should not rely entirely on the recommendations in the technical passport, since many factors affect the wear of the linings:

  1. The more aggressive the driving style, the faster the working surfaces wear out, because on 1 km of the road you use the brakes twice as often as the average driver.
  2. Machine operating conditions. If you are constantly driving on dirt and bad roads, then wear is accelerated due to the ingress of dirt on the brake discs and drums.
  3. The quality of the material from which the part is made.
  4. Technical condition of brake drums and discs. When grooves appear on the surfaces of these elements, the linings wear out much faster.
  5. Permanent transportation of goods.

This raises the question of how long the brake pads go in real life. The range of mileage is quite wide - from 5 to 45 thousand km, depending on the car brand and the degree of influence of these factors. That is why it is important to independently monitor the condition of the pads.

Wear symptoms of parts

In the process of driving, there are several signs by which you can navigate when it is time to change the pads of the front or rear brakes, or even all together. The symptoms are:

  • a metallic rattle when you press the pedal indicates complete wear of the linings;
  • increased brake pedal travel, vibration when pressed;
  • when braking, there is a feeling that the front or rear of the car is being pulled to the side, and on a slippery road the car easily goes into a skid;
  • a working hand brake does not work;
  • to stop, more effort is required on the pedal.

If, when braking from the side of the wheels, a metallic grinding and squeak is heard, then the question of how long to change the unusable parts is no longer worth it. Replacement must be done urgently, since the friction linings are gone and the steel base is rubbing against the working surface of the disc.

Never bring the brakes to a state of complete wear, otherwise the discs will have to be replaced along with the pads, which is significantly more expensive.

If you find one or more symptoms that indicate problems with the wheel brakes, check the condition of the pads. Diagnostic recommendations are as follows:

  1. If the car has light-alloy wheels with large holes, then you do not have to disassemble anything to inspect the front calipers. If necessary, jack up the machine to align the disc opening against the brake mechanism.
  2. Wheels with steel rims must be removed. Inspect the front brake pads for the thickness of the pads. If it is less than 3 mm, the parts should be replaced immediately. With a thickness of 3-5 mm, you can drive another 1-2 thousand km, no more.
  3. Rear brakes are disc and drum. The former are examined similarly to the front ones, and the latter will have to be disassembled. Remove the wheel and release the "handbrake", then unscrew the drum and gently knock it off the hub. Unlike the front pads, the rear pads need to be changed at a thickness of 1.5-2 mm.

When, as a result of diagnostics, wear of elements is found close to the maximum, but replacement is postponed for various reasons, drive carefully and without haste. It happens that a worn-out pad comes off completely when the pedal is pressed sharply.

When carrying out diagnostics, pay attention to the working surface of the brake drums and discs. If its development is 2 mm or more (determined by the depth of the groove with a caliper), then the part must be replaced.

Other reasons for replacing pads

In addition to a situation with critical wear, it is necessary to change brake pads in such cases:

  • the thickness of the friction material is more than 5 mm, but the lining itself has begun to peel off from the steel base;
  • cracks and chips appeared on the surface, the material began to crumble;
  • there are spots of oil or brake fluid on the parts, which reduces frictional properties;
  • when the brake drum or disc has been replaced.

Another reason for the replacement is associated with the abundance of low-quality fakes in the car parts market.... New pads bought at an unreliable retail outlet, after 1-2 thousand km, begin to creak or squeak terribly, although the working part is still far from complete abrasion. The culprit is the material of the part, whose hardness is comparable to that of metal, which makes the surface "lick" and a creak appears. If the elements made from what is not known can not be replaced, then the output on the brake discs will increase dramatically.

Many modern cars are equipped with special sensors that register a decrease in the thickness of the friction layer and give a signal to the driver when it reaches a critical level. This is also a reason to remove worn-out parts and put new ones.

True, the sensors are often clogged with dirt, and lose their functionality, so the owner of the car will not hurt to check the condition of the brakes on their own.

The first and very important rule: you cannot change the front or rear brake pads one by one. It is necessary to put a set of new elements on the front or rear axle, otherwise, when braking, the car can strongly drift sideways. Even when one pad is worn out, all four must be replaced.... As a temporary option, it is allowed to install 2 new parts on one rear wheel.

When choosing new pads in the store, use the following recommendations:

  1. Products must match the car model and be sold in high-quality packaging with attached instructions. The lettering on the box is clear and free from errors indicating Chinese origin.
  2. Make sure the friction material is the same color, without foreign inclusions.
  3. The surface pressed against the plane of the disc must be flat. Small chips along the edges and depressions are allowed if they occupy no more than 1% of the total area of \u200b\u200bthe working plane.
  4. Cracks at the interface between metal and friction material are unacceptable.

Ideally, you should buy original products in their original packaging. This will save you from unpleasant surprises, extraordinary replacements and emergencies when operating a car.

The braking system is one of those that is used more often than others, and therefore even at the design stage it is given the utmost attention. Manufacturers do their best to make it last as long as possible. Still, there comes a time when the brake pads need to be replaced. The rate of wear depends on many factors: the type of gearbox, operating conditions, manufacturer, driving style, etc. The main thing is to remember that it is impossible to hesitate in any case. Not only your own life depends on this, but also the lives of others.

When to change?

Before asking the question of how to replace or the rear, you should determine exactly that this moment has come. How to do it? It's very simple. As a rule, they are equipped with a special wear sensor, which begins to emit a nasty metallic squeal when braking, which is almost impossible not to hear. In any case, a periodic visual inspection must be performed. brake pads... If their thickness has become less than 3 mm, and there is no squealing, you can safely start replacing.

Which ones to choose?

Before replacing the brake pads, you need to decide on their choice. It is advisable to buy original parts, choosing them from special catalogs depending on the car brand, year of manufacture, body type, etc., or purchase goods from well-known manufacturers. Otherwise, you can easily run into a fake.

When choosing a new vehicle, many people pay special attention to such parameters of the active safety system as the number of airbags (Airbag), the presence of a stability control system, a warning system about deviation from the chosen lane, and a number of others. But paying attention to seemingly very important automotive options, we forget to check the reliability of the most basic safety system - the reliability of the brakes.

The brakes are responsible for slowing the vehicle down and bringing it to a standstill. If your vehicle has a healthy braking system and you keep it in good working order (not forgetting ours), then you may never need to use airbags or learn from your own experience about your car's crumple zones.

HOW DOES THE VEHICLE BRAKE SYSTEM WORK?

Let's take a quick look at how a car's braking system works. Most modern models are equipped with disc brakes on all four wheels, although some vehicles are still equipped with drum brakes on the rear wheels and disc brakes on the front (American version). When you press the brake pedal in a vehicle equipped with disc brakes, a set of heat-resistant pads grips the rotating brake rotor using friction to slow the wheels down, which ultimately brings the car to a standstill.

Over time, these pads wear out, which reduces their ability to slow the vehicle down. This is why it is important to replace the pads exactly when it becomes necessary; however, you don't always need to go to a mechanic to get your car's brakes in order. While repairs to the brake system itself are best left to professionals, replacing brake pads is a type of work that you can do yourself at home.

In this article, we'll discuss how to change brake pads - a fairly simple process that can save you a trip to the workshop. Read on to find out how to determine when it's time to upgrade to new pads.

WHEN TO CHANGE THE BRAKE PADS?

First of all, remember the following: it is very dangerous for your life and the life of those around you to delay the replacement of brake pads. Since you regularly apply the brakes for thousands of kilometers, brake pads gradually wear out, their ability to stop the vehicle gradually decreases... But how do you know when it's time to replace the pads?

Fortunately, determining if your car needs a little brake maintenance is not that difficult. Disc brakes usually include a part called a wear indicator. A wear indicator is a small piece of metal attached to a brake pad that contacts the brake disc when the pad material wears down to a certain level. When you step on the brake pedal and hear a loud grinding sound, know that the wear indicator interacts with the brake disc. This noise is a signal that your vehicle's brakes need inspection.

In other words, if the brakes are making a lot of noise, don't hesitate and deal with the problem as quickly as possible.

If you decide to tackle the problem yourself, then you should know a few more signs of wear on your brakes. If the brake pads are badly worn, they can leave round marks or grooves on the brake discs. These marks, or as they are called, scratches, are very similar to the grooves of vinyl records and are a sign that an urgent replacement of the pads is needed. If the scratches on the discs are particularly deep - the discs themselves may need to be replaced as well. If the grooves are not too deep in the brake disc surface, you can polish it to give the disc a new, smooth surface. Typically grinding set brake discs costs much less than a complete replacement.

While you are inspecting the pads, it would be a good idea to also inspect the brake hoses for cracks and holes. If there is some kind of malfunction (or leakage) in the brake hoses, the pressure in the brake system will gradually decrease and your vehicle's braking system will not function properly - and sometimes it can lead to complete system failure. Be sure to also take a good look at all connections. The brakes should be sealed at this end of the system so that you should not see a drop of brake fluid near the wheel. If you find a leak, try to find the source. Depending on your ability, you can either fix the leak yourself or seek professional help. Either way, fix the problem as quickly as possible. Even a small leak in the hydraulic brake system can be very dangerous.

Your car's brake pads should last tens of thousands of kilometers, but this depends a lot on the particular vehicle and your driving style. The more you apply the brakes, the shorter the brake pad life. When it's time to replace them, don't be afraid to repair yourself.

PREPARING THE VEHICLE FOR REPLACING THE BRAKE PADS

Repairing brakes, especially when it comes to replacing brake pads, does not always mean demanding and hard work, but proper preparation can speed up the process and even make it safer. Let's talk about how to get your car ready for use.

Start by placing blocks under your vehicle to secure it and prevent it from moving while you work on the brake pads. Then loosen (but do not completely remove) the nuts on the wheel on which you intend to change pads, for example, as if you were going to change tires.

Then use a jack to raise the vehicle and secure it. This step is very important. Changing the wheels of a car is a fairly quick procedure (which is confirmed by our article ""), but replacing the brake pads takes much longer. In addition, when working with pads, more of your body is under the car than when working with car tires. Keeping your vehicle as safe as possible is critical at this stage. After jacking the vehicle up, rock it slightly. It will be much better for the car to fall off the jacks now than in the process of replacing the pads themselves. Take care of your safety.

Now that the car is in the air (at the proper level of safety), unscrew the nuts all the way and remove the wheels. This will expose your vehicle's brake discs, brake calipers, and brake pads.

So now your car is ready to go. But what do you need directly for replacing brake pads if you are at home? In the next part of our article, we'll talk about the tools needed to get this job done.

BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT TOOLS

Brake repair tools, especially those used when replacing brake pads, will not give you additional headaches and do not require any special skill to use. In fact, they can be easily found in any (for example, on the website) or in a special department of your favorite hypermarket.

Here's a quick rundown of what you'll need and why:

* C-shaped clamp - it is used to press on the caliper kit and push the piston all the way, returning the brakes to their original position as soon as the new pads take their place. Note: Some vehicles require a special brake caliper tool to retract the piston until it stops. Remember, before starting any repair work, it will never be superfluous to do a little research and find out exactly what tools are needed to complete a particular task in your vehicle.

* Wrench - in order to loosen the caliper bolts. You can choose the brand of wrenches yourself, but do not forget about the specifics of any vehicle.

* Wheel nut wrench - to remove the nuts that secure the wheel.

* Gloves - they are needed in order to protect your hands from chemicals and dirt that you may encounter during the procedure.

* Respirator and safety glasses - a mask is needed in order to prevent inhalation of brake dust, and goggles to protect your eyes from small pieces of metal and chemical liquids during direct work on changing pads.

* New brake pads - their purpose is obvious - to replace worn out brake pads.

Many of you probably already own most of these automotive tools stored in your garage or work area. In other words, you don't need to be a professional mechanic to replace the brake pads yourself. It should be noted that buying new pads will not cost you a pretty penny either. You can easily purchase a standard kit at any auto parts store or online. Typically, prices range from $ 40 to $ 100.

REMOVING OLD BRAKE PADS

Now that your vehicle is in the air and securely locked, all the tools are at your fingertips, it's time to start what you set out to do from the beginning: remove the old brake pads and replace them with new ones.

Let's quickly analyze where we are at the moment. The car is suspended in the air with the wheels and tires removed to expose the brake discs and calipers. To remove the worn out brake pads, we first need to remove the calipers. Use a wrench to loosen the caliper bolts that hold them in place and then remove the bolts completely (or loosen as much as possible).

After the bolts are removed, lift the calipers off the brake disc. They will still be attached to the vehicle by the brake pipes. The following information is very important - don't let the calipers hang from these tubes... This can damage the brake pipes, which in turn can lead to a malfunction of the brake system. Instead, attach the calipers to the nearest parts of the hanger using wire or wire. Make sure the brake pipes are loose and that they are not pinched, twisted, or get in the way of any of the tools you will be using during the entire process.

Take a look at the brake disc, which is now not covered by a caliper. If the disc has deep scratches or grooves, you probably have there will be a desire to polish the surface or replace the discs with new ones. Remember that it is very important to keep all the little things in mind when doing repairs yourself, so you should either have a sander or new discs.

Now that you have removed the brake calipers, you can directly see the brake pads. They are usually held in place with studs or bolts, or sometimes both. Remove any type of hardware holding the pads to the caliper and remove the pads.

Now inspect the pads. Do they look too worn out? Are they relatively thin compared to the new pads you purchased? If so, then you've made the right decision and it's time to install new ones.

So far, everything is working out great! Now that we have successfully removed the old pads, let's put in the new ones and finish this minor brake system repair.

INSTALLING NEW BRAKE PADS

It's almost time to install new brake pads. But before you can do that, there is one more step to take. You must manually remove the caliper piston.

If you look at the inside of the caliper, you can see the cylindrical piston coming out - this part is pressing against the inside of the brake pad. You will see that this piston has adapted to the worn pads, so you need to reset it to its original position before the calipers, along with the new and thicker pads, are put into place.

Before dumping the piston in the caliper, it would be a good idea to remove the cap that covers the brake fluid reservoir. If you don't, then you will have to contend with a significant amount of pressurized fluid.

Now that you have removed the reservoir lid, there comes a point where you need a C-shaped clamp. Place the screw end on the piston. If you like, you can use a small piece of bark to protect the piston surface. When you turn the screw end, the clamp will increase the pressure on the piston. Continue tightening it until you are able to insert new pads into the caliper and install the caliper with new pads on the brake disc.

If you find that the piston does not resist retracting, do not press down on it. You may be dealing with a caliper, the piston of which cranks as it extends. If so, then you will need special toolthat feeds the piston back into the caliper. Brake Caliper Tool - a specially designed tool that allows you to put this type of caliper piston back in place - is available for purchase at almost every auto parts store. If you can't find it in, you can order this tool online, or, if you're lucky, you can ask your neighbor if there is one in his garage and he can lend it to you until the evening.

Once the brake caliper piston is returned to its original position, you can close the brake fluid reservoir cap. Remember, it is best not to leave the tank open for longer than circumstances dictate. Debris or even water can find its way into your vehicle's hydraulic braking system. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs and retains water. The water in the brake pipes leads to serious safety problems and more difficult repairs than the relatively simple brake pad replacement we are finishing with.

The installation of new brake discs at this stage simply requires them to slip into the place where the old ones were previously located. If this process causes any difficulties and you are not easy to insert new pads with your hands, you can gently help them with a regular or rubber mallet. Then install the studs or bolts that held the previous pads and you're almost done.

Then, install the caliper in its place on the brake disc. Make sure it fits snugly and tighten the bolts that hold the caliper in place. Make sure everything is in place, and then press the brake pedal inside the car several times to make sure everything is in order. You may need to press a few times on the pedal for all the components of the braking system to fall into place.

The rest of the repair is the simplest. Reinstall the wheel, tighten the nuts, lower the car to the ground using the same jacks. Remember to fully tighten the wheel nuts when the vehicle is lowered to the ground.

Also, do not forget to give the car a short test drive to make sure the pad replacement job is completed successfully. Repairing the brakes is one thing, but making sure it has been done properly is another.

And here is an entertaining video on what mistakes can be made when replacing brake pads.

Changing the brake pads yourself is much cheaper than taking the car to a car service.

By following the tips below, you can restore the car's ability to brake normally, and only spend on the necessary materials.

Removing the brake pads

Get the right brake pads. You can buy them at a parts store or dealership. Tell the store the brand of car, its model and year of manufacture, and select the pads of the appropriate price range. In general, the more expensive they are, the longer they will last.

  • Very expensive, high quality metal pads are most likely designed for rally use and with high performance brake discs. You shouldn't buy them because regular brake discs wear out faster with such pads. In addition, some people find that cheap pads are noisier than more expensive brand pads.

Make sure the machine is cool. If you've recently driven it, the calipers, pads and brake discs can burn when touched. Do not remove parts until they cool down.

Loosen the nuts. Using a wrench and jack, loosen each wheel holding nut approximately two-thirds of the way.

  • Do not remove all wheels at once. You will need to change at least two front pads or two rear pads, depending on how evenly they wear out. So start with either the front or the back.

Raise the machine carefully with a jack so that parts can be easily removed. Check your machine's owner's manual to see if you have installed the jack correctly. Place bricks in front of the wheels to prevent the car from rolling.

  • Place a jack stand or bricks under the car frame. DO NOT rely on the jack alone! Do the same on the other side to keep the machine securely in place.

Remove the wheels. Only remove the nuts completely when the machine is already jacked up. Pull the wheel straight out and remove it.

  • If the wheel rims are light-alloy and stick to studs, then before changing the wheel, you need to clean the studs, holes in the nuts, the brake disc attachment point and the rear wheel attachment surface with a wire brush, and then apply special grease to the stud surface.

Remove the caliper bolts using an appropriately sized box spanner. The caliper grips the brake disc, its function is to create adhesion with the discs using hydraulic pressure, which slows down the wheel even before the brake pads are applied. Calipers are usually one or two pieces, and are attached with two to four bolts to the hub where the wheel fits onto the axle. Sprinkle these WD-40 bolts to make them easier to remove.

  • Check the pressure of the calipers. The caliper of the machine at rest can be slightly moved back and forth. If the caliper does not move, then it is under pressure and may fly off when you unscrew the bolts. Even if the caliper is loose, be very careful.
  • Check for shims or production washers between the caliper mounting bolts and the mounting surface. Remove them, if any, and do not forget to replace them later. The calipers are installed separately from the brake pads, so you need to measure the distance from the mounting surface to the pads in order to then put them in the right place.
  • Many Japanese cars have two-piece slide calipers, which only require removal of the two front 12-14mm head bolts. The entire caliper does not need to be removed.

Hang the caliper on the wire over the wheel well. The caliper is connected to the brake pipe, so hang it on a piece of wire or other unnecessary material so it doesn't press on the flexible brake hose.

Change of pads

Remove the old pads. Notice how each shoe was attached. They are usually snapped in with metal clips. Remove both pads. You may need to force them to pop out, so do not hit the calipers and brake pipe.

  • Check the brake discs for deformation, heat damage or surface cracks. Replace discs if necessary. It is recommended to replace the brake discs when replacing the brake linings.

Install new pads. Now you can lubricate the edges of the metal parts and the back of the pads so they don't squeak. Just do not apply lubricant to the inner surfaces of the pads, they will cease to perform their functions. Attach the new pads exactly as the old ones were.

Check the brake fluid level. Add liquids as needed. Then put the brake fluid reservoir back on.

Replace the caliper. Slowly and carefully, without touching anything, slide the caliper onto the brake disc and bolt it to the hub.

Put back the wheels. Replace the wheels and hand tighten each nut before lowering the machine to the ground.

Tighten the nuts. With the machine on the ground, tighten each nut in a star pattern until they are all tightened to specification.

  • Check the specifications in the instruction manual for your machine. This is to make sure all nuts are tight enough to prevent the wheel from coming off. Also, thanks to the manual, you can make sure that the nuts are not overtightened.

Start your car. After making sure the machine is in neutral or park position, apply the brakes 15-20 times to get the pads in place.

Test new pads. Drive down an empty residential street at a maximum speed of 8 km / h and then brake as you normally would. If the car brakes well, then increase the speed to 15 km / h. Check the brakes a few more times, gradually increasing the speed to 50 km / h. Also try reversing to brake. All this will help the pads to "sit" in the right place, and you - to make sure that you have installed the pads correctly, and confidently drive along a busy street.

  • Listen for sounds while riding in case of problems. New pads may squeak, but if you hear metal scraping metal, you may have reversed the pads (i.e., with the inside facing out). In this case, you need to urgently rearrange them.

Bleeding the brake system

Remove the cover from the master cylinder reservoir. Brake fluid becomes dirty when exposed to the environment, dust gets into it, and it also absorbs moisture from the air, which affects its boiling point - this can be dangerous. The fluid must be drained from the system before replacing the pads and calipers, however (paradoxically), this fluid will still be needed in the process. Check fluid level, top up if necessary.

Dip the other end of the hose into the bottle. To prevent air from entering the system, the bottle must be suspended or held above the calipers.

Check carefully for bubbles. If a gurgling sound is heard when the brake pedal is pressed, then there is air in the system. Then you need to continue to drain the liquid.

  • If you are working with rear brakes, pay attention to the parking brake. Remove and adjust with care.
  • Try turning the steering wheel and turning the front wheel outward before starting to change something. This will make it much more convenient to work with the front wheel caliper - it will be easier to reach it. However, be careful when handling the caliper.
  • Check for rusted or worn brake discs - this may cause pads to squeak. The main thing is that they do not grind down to the minimum thickness.

Warnings

  • Always use a jack stand and place bricks in front of the wheels to prevent the machine from rolling. Don't rely on the jack alone.
  • Do not allow grease to get on the surface of the pads, otherwise they will cease to perform their functions.
  • Do not unscrew the brake pipe from the caliper, otherwise air will enter it and ruin everything.

The brake pads ensure a safe driving experience. The parts are located on the disc (drum). During braking, the pressure applied to the pedal is transmitted to the pads. Spare parts are pressed against the drum. The rotation of the wheels stops.

What kind of brake pads are there?

There are rear and front brake pads.

Brake pad wear depends on several factors:

  • Driving style;
  • Weather;
  • Road surface condition;
  • The quality of the pads.

How do I replace the rear brake pads?

Rear brake pads need to be replaced regularly. The wear of the part is indicated by an unpleasant whistling and grinding noise that occurs when the machine stops. It is recommended to change the pads after 30-40 thousand kilometers, depending on the operating conditions.

Replacing the front brake pads

It is best to buy original parts. It is imperative to change the brake pads on both wheels of one axle at once. Otherwise, due to uneven wear, the vehicle's handling will decrease. After installing the parts on the drum, for the first couple of hundred kilometers, sharp braking should be avoided.

To replace the brake pads, the wheels must be removed from the vehicle. Then the pins are knocked out of the caliper and the springs are released. Remove the inner and outer pads. Thoroughly clean the guides and drum from dirt and dust. Install new pads. Check the brake fluid level. The replacement algorithm may differ depending on the car model.

How do I replace the front brake pads?

Front brake pads wear out twice as fast as rear. To replace parts, you first need to remove the wheels. Then it is necessary to bend the edges of the lock plate, which prevents the bolts from loosening. Next, unscrew the connection. Raise the caliper and remove the pads from the guide. Before installing the parts, move the piston as far as possible inside the cylinder. The brake pad replacement scheme is almost the same for all car brands, but there may be slight differences.

With excessive wear, removing parts can become a serious problem. Disassembly tools and equipment will be required. High-quality and quick replacement of brake pads can only be performed by specialists. We recommend that you use the services service center, which always has in stock original auto parts of chevrolet, mazda, toyota or other car brands in which they specialize. Service center specialists will quickly and efficiently replace worn out brake pads of any type in the shortest possible time.

The editors of the site wish its readers smooth roads and timely change the brake pads on their car - safety is above all.
Subscribe to our channel in Yandex.Zen